2010 boxxer issues

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
2010 boxxer issues
Author Message
flag andreib
Posted: Oct 28, 2010 at 10:20 Quote
ThEGr33k wrote:
Hmmph. I was wrong it seems...

But I have now sorted it I think.

When the fork returns the compression parts move out to allow the rebound to bypass the compression restriction (the plunger you were talking about tie wrapping I think). I put a small O-ring on the piston on the inside of the plastic, behind the spring that returns the plunger, this stops the top of the piston hitting the bottom (which is what makes the noise), so the bypass doesn't open as much as it did but its silent now and all seems to still work fine!

I did ask the shop that I got them from last week if they knew anything and they didn't but they have been trying to find out and see what needed doing, if I needed to send them back for service. Just let them know its sorted, so fingers crossed they are happy with what I did to sort it, and that its actually sorted for good (cant see why it wouldn't).

Anyway, keep safe, ride hard!

can you post some pictures? because i didn't understand where you put the O-ring.

Thanks!
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Oct 29, 2010 at 8:33 Quote
photo

Take the bottom off of the compression parts. (as in the part pointed to in the picture).

Once you have that off there is a plastic blade that goes into a slot for the adjuster at top, under that is a shaft with a spring to hold it closed, the noise comes from the plastic part at the top contacting with the plastic bit on the bottom when the fork returns after compression (bottom bit being the blue housing) You can test this, simply compress the spring and release, you should get a loud tap.

So what I did is get a tiny O-ring (the right size to sit tight to the shaft on the inside of the spring), cut it so I can slot inside the spring. Once the O-ring is inside the spring around the shaft try compressing the spring and letting go, it should be almost silent, or at least a lot quieter than before. This then works as a stop, it does mean that the bottom part of the compression doesn't open as much for returning the oil, but I have noticed no ill effects. And once back together the noise is gone!

Hope that makes sense, if you take yours apart it should be obvious, its all very basic in there!

NOTE* When clipping the bottom blue part back onto the top part make sure that the compression dial at the top is inlne with the bottom. Best way to do this is have compression turned to off and when lining up to put back together the holes on the bottom should be fully open (not covered at all).

If you have any more questions or clarification then just ask on here and ill try to help.
flag mtb1stdegree
Posted: Nov 9, 2010 at 15:29 Quote
ThEGr33k wrote:
photo

Take the bottom off of the compression parts. (as in the part pointed to in the picture).

Once you have that off there is a plastic blade that goes into a slot for the adjuster at top, under that is a shaft with a spring to hold it closed, the noise comes from the plastic part at the top contacting with the plastic bit on the bottom when the fork returns after compression (bottom bit being the blue housing) You can test this, simply compress the spring and release, you should get a loud tap.

So what I did is get a tiny O-ring (the right size to sit tight to the shaft on the inside of the spring), cut it so I can slot inside the spring. Once the O-ring is inside the spring around the shaft try compressing the spring and letting go, it should be almost silent, or at least a lot quieter than before. This then works as a stop, it does mean that the bottom part of the compression doesn't open as much for returning the oil, but I have noticed no ill effects. And once back together the noise is gone!

Hope that makes sense, if you take yours apart it should be obvious, its all very basic in there!

NOTE* When clipping the bottom blue part back onto the top part make sure that the compression dial at the top is inlne with the bottom. Best way to do this is have compression turned to off and when lining up to put back together the holes on the bottom should be fully open (not covered at all).

If you have any more questions or clarification then just ask on here and ill try to help.
this helped me out alot man, i have the same clicking problem, i took out the damper at first and noticed that and didnt think of it much, then you explained it and found out it was that, thanks!
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Nov 10, 2010 at 5:43 Quote
mtb1stdegree wrote:
this helped me out alot man, i have the same clicking problem, i took out the damper at first and noticed that and didnt think of it much, then you explained it and found out it was that, thanks!

You are welcome!! You added a O-ring or anything in there to stop the noise?

photo


Here I added an image I drew up. It shows how the part on the bottom looks when you take it off of the blue cylinder that is the compression damper.

The lower view is showing the whole spring and piston that moves. The noise comes when the spring is fully compressed and the top and bottom black parts contact. It shows in the bottom one where the O-ring should sit and im sure you can see how this would silence the contact noise.

One warning. Make sure you dont put too big a O-ring in there, the piston still needs to move a little to allow the oil to move past on rebound!

To put the O-ring around the piston you will have to cut so its split and can slip around the piston. Dont worry though, the O-rings natural shape and the Spring around it will make sure it cant come back out.

Hope this makes it completely clear what I did. If anyone has any more Questions feel free to ask on here or message me!

Cheers
flag dropmnster
Posted: Nov 10, 2010 at 14:01 Quote
I have a 2011 RC and it is making the click noise so it seems like they didnt fix it for 2011. Im gona give them a call tomarrow and see what they will do maybe I can get a totem.
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Nov 10, 2010 at 15:14 Quote
dropmnster wrote:
I have a 2011 RC and it is making the click noise so it seems like they didnt fix it for 2011. Im gona give them a call tomarrow and see what they will do maybe I can get a totem.

Totems have more issues than the boxxers tbh... or they did thats for sure. If you get no where then if they have the same compression cartridge as the Race 2010 then the fix I mention will sort it Smile
flag dropmnster
Posted: Nov 10, 2010 at 16:02 Quote
I work at a shop i might just get the mission control DH Damper and the rebound damper out of a R2C2 its fairly cheap to do.
ThEGr33k wrote:
dropmnster wrote:
I have a 2011 RC and it is making the click noise so it seems like they didnt fix it for 2011. Im gona give them a call tomarrow and see what they will do maybe I can get a totem.

Totems have more issues than the boxxers tbh... or they did thats for sure. If you get no where then if they have the same compression cartridge as the Race 2010 then the fix I mention will sort it Smile
flag whattheheel
Posted: Nov 10, 2010 at 16:05 Quote
ThEGr33k wrote:
dropmnster wrote:
I have a 2011 RC and it is making the click noise so it seems like they didnt fix it for 2011. Im gona give them a call tomarrow and see what they will do maybe I can get a totem.

Totems have more issues than the boxxers tbh... or they did thats for sure. If you get no where then if they have the same compression cartridge as the Race 2010 then the fix I mention will sort it Smile
Pretty sure it was only the two step that caused any probs on the totem. Not trying to bust your balls by any means.
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Nov 11, 2010 at 2:30 Quote
whattheheel wrote:
ThEGr33k wrote:
dropmnster wrote:
I have a 2011 RC and it is making the click noise so it seems like they didnt fix it for 2011. Im gona give them a call tomarrow and see what they will do maybe I can get a totem.

Totems have more issues than the boxxers tbh... or they did thats for sure. If you get no where then if they have the same compression cartridge as the Race 2010 then the fix I mention will sort it Smile
Pretty sure it was only the two step that caused any probs on the totem. Not trying to bust your balls by any means.

You could be right, RS had pretty huge issues with 2 step on all models. When I was researching Totem and Boxxer I kept coming across Totems bursting seals (practically monthly) and the crown creaking after small amounts of use. I settled on the Boxxer as in comparison there is little wrong. Hell, even this tapping is only noise, there is nothing technically wrong, just annoying.

Here is MTBR reviews of Totem. You can see a lot of people with issues, and I found it other places like on here too unfortunately Frown
flag Huckster-McPlush
Posted: Dec 5, 2010 at 6:44 Quote
Well, unfortunately, I have discovered yet another cause of the infamous clicking noise Frown Upon my discovery of the motion control damper assembly causing the click (and removing my damper entirely and replacing it with a standard spring cap) I also installed a spacer in between the rebound sealhead and the snap ring at the bottom of the rebound stanchion tube. I was so certain that the motion control was the only cause of the click, but yesterday I was doing some fork maintenance... I removed the DIY spacer from the sealhead thinking, "I don't need this anymore"...well guess what. The click is BACK. Same exact feel, noise, and the same distance in travel. Oh well, I will just reinstall the DIY spacer again and it will be gone. Just wanted to post up just in case anyone was having clicking issues after modding the motion control damper. I didn't think the sealhead would actually move that much when clipped in, but under full load of bike and rider, it does. It just moves enough that the metal on metal of the stanchion tube and sealhead makes an audible click and knock feeling in the bars Frown I guess sram is sending out warranty sealhead replacements free of charge (through sram dealers) for those who purchased 2010 boxxer race forks.
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Dec 6, 2010 at 13:56 Quote
Huckster-McPlush wrote:
Well, unfortunately, I have discovered yet another cause of the infamous clicking noise Frown Upon my discovery of the motion control damper assembly causing the click (and removing my damper entirely and replacing it with a standard spring cap) I also installed a spacer in between the rebound sealhead and the snap ring at the bottom of the rebound stanchion tube. I was so certain that the motion control was the only cause of the click, but yesterday I was doing some fork maintenance... I removed the DIY spacer from the sealhead thinking, "I don't need this anymore"...well guess what. The click is BACK. Same exact feel, noise, and the same distance in travel. Oh well, I will just reinstall the DIY spacer again and it will be gone. Just wanted to post up just in case anyone was having clicking issues after modding the motion control damper. I didn't think the sealhead would actually move that much when clipped in, but under full load of bike and rider, it does. It just moves enough that the metal on metal of the stanchion tube and sealhead makes an audible click and knock feeling in the bars Frown I guess sram is sending out warranty sealhead replacements free of charge (through sram dealers) for those who purchased 2010 boxxer race forks.

Yes there is one. Get in touch with your local bike shop and explain this. You should be up for the newer bit.

Seems these Race forks have 2 potential clicking parts...
flag likeomg
Posted: Dec 6, 2010 at 14:24 Quote
has anybody had a problem with the rebound adjusters on a team(wc?) jamming together... currently i cant adjust mine independently any one got any thoughts?
flag tom-towers
Posted: Dec 6, 2010 at 14:42 Quote
Jullage wrote:
has anybody had a problem with the rebound adjusters on a team(wc?) jamming together... currently i cant adjust mine independently any one got any thoughts?
take them off and give them a clean? you might have grit inbetween them?
flag likeomg
Posted: Dec 6, 2010 at 14:48 Quote
how do you actually take them snap ring things off.... i probably have a tool for it somewhere just don't know what im looking for...
flag tom-towers
Posted: Dec 6, 2010 at 15:00 Quote
oh, i was thinking they would be like the totem adjusters, with just the allenkey bolt to take off then they slide off.

 


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