Post your Santa Cruz Bullits!

PB Forum :: Santa Cruz
Post your Santa Cruz Bullits!
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Posted: Dec 3, 2016 at 22:18 Quote
Hey guys let's keep this post going. But I need some advice thou. I am looking to buy a ( what I believe is a 2004 Santa Cruz bullit r).

I found it and the seller is asking $500 plus $100 for shipping was wondering if that is a good price? I am planning on buying it bc I kinda need a full suspension bike, but also wanted a 29er as well, not really sure if I can anything bigger then 26 inch tires.

I do have a pics as well, just me know if you want to see them.

Thanks

Posted: Dec 3, 2016 at 22:34 Quote
Darby78 wrote:
Hey guys let's keep this post going. But I need some advice thou. I am looking to buy a ( what I believe is a 2004 Santa Cruz bullit r).

I found it and the seller is asking $500 plus $100 for shipping was wondering if that is a good price? I am planning on buying it bc I kinda need a full suspension bike, but also wanted a 29er as well, not really sure if I can anything bigger then 26 inch tires.

I do have a pics as well, just me know if you want to see them.

Thanks
post some pictures

Posted: Dec 4, 2016 at 22:06 Quote
The seller is already in the process of selling but I did find some more. I will have to find the pics and post them again

Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 9:23 Quote
Hi,
I hope it is ok to post this here.
I am in need of Bullit 2.0 drop outs. If anyone has any laying around and would like to sell them,
please message me. Sorry, I tried to post pictures of what I need but I can't seem to figure that out.
For quick release or 12mm axle.

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2101092/

Thank you!

Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 15:44 Quote
My short shocked Bullit.

I short-shocked my bullit (200x57 air shock instead of the 216x63 coil), this reduces rear travel to about 160mm and lowers the rear about 45mm. Then I put a 160 FOX 36 on the front, which drops the front 20mm. This combo drops the bike about 30mm, bringing the BB height to about 332mm, a bit on the low side so I may put offset bushings in it to raise the rear a bit. It also brought the head angle to about 66 degrees. I also put some used lighter wheels and Tires on it (Spank Spike Race 28 wheelset , Butcher/Purgatory tires). I installed a 1x10 setup on it and a dropper post (take offs from my enduro) and then Raceface SIXC bars and RF stem.

This is really a spare bike, I looked for used parts (fork, shock, wheelset) and I also used takeoffs from my other bikes and builds (brakes, tires, stem, shifter, cassette, derailer, seat and dropper post. New parts were the cranks and NW ring, the bars and grips.

Short shocked Bullit
  Short shocked Bullit

Short shocked Bullit
  Short shocked Bullit

Short shocked Bullit
  Short shocked Bullit

Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 16:41 Quote
the only thing id say is make sure the rear wheel isnt going to hit the seat tube at full bottom, looks weird with the low seat tube height, but other than that looks good with a pretty solid build. ive gone the opposite direction and have an 8.75x2.75 rear shock. same deal, mines just a mish mosh of older stuff, i love my bullit but its hard to have fun riding it when i know my knollys so much lighter!

Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 17:25 Quote
It doesn't hit, but just barely...

Posted: Mar 15, 2017 at 17:50 Quote
Hi Guys,

I just bought a bullit planning to rebuild it with 2012-2017 parts I have in my spare drawer. The frame is in great shape but the colour is boring and the paint is worn.

The first step in my task list is to repaint the frame but I'm unable to choose a colour theme.

Any ideas ? What is the sickest bullit you've had or seen ?

Thanks



2007 Santa Cruz BULLIT FR frame - A1 shape

2007 Santa Cruz BULLIT FR frame - A1 shape

Posted: Mar 15, 2017 at 19:07 Quote
unless you're a professional i would leave it as it is, i have experience as a painter and powdercoater and unless you're prepared to spend the money or have the skills and time to do it it just wont come out that great and wont last as long. dont get me wrong its do-able but stripping everything down and getting a good scuff on it for paint to stick in all the nooks and crannys is a mofo, if you go the media blasting route then its just a crapload of cleaning with prepall before you can do anything. epoxy paint holds up really well but is heavy, powder coat requires you paying someone and hoping they do a good job but if they do can be the best option. the original finish was made to last, if its worth anything ive always liked that color, ive always wanted to sticker bomb my bullit so maybe thats another option... hope ive been some help.

Posted: Mar 18, 2017 at 19:42 Quote
whitebullit wrote:
unless you're a professional i would leave it as it is, i have experience as a painter and powdercoater and unless you're prepared to spend the money or have the skills and time to do it it just wont come out that great and wont last as long. dont get me wrong its do-able but stripping everything down and getting a good scuff on it for paint to stick in all the nooks and crannys is a mofo, if you go the media blasting route then its just a crapload of cleaning with prepall before you can do anything. epoxy paint holds up really well but is heavy, powder coat requires you paying someone and hoping they do a good job but if they do can be the best option. the original finish was made to last, if its worth anything ive always liked that color, ive always wanted to sticker bomb my bullit so maybe thats another option... hope ive been some help.


I already stripped all the original decals and ordered a new set on ebay. The original finish is faded and matt.

I went to the automobile department and bought 2 cans of metallic blue paint + clear marine varnish. The color is close to the original. It should gives a fresher look to the frame and if the new paint gets scratched, the old paint should not detonate much.

Time will tell how long it's going to last for a light use AM-trail setup.

Posted: Mar 19, 2017 at 5:57 Quote
yikes... should of at least gone with a 2step, rattle cans are like crayons for adults, sure its fun while youre playing but never looks like it should.

Posted: Mar 20, 2017 at 11:53 Quote
You can do a great rattle can paint job if you prep right and use a base and clear it over, then wet sand and buff. I have done a few motorcycle gas tanks and they look great, nobody believes me that they are rattle can paint jobs. Using a clear coat then the wet sand and polish make all the difference. One year in and the colours still look good. Of course pro stuff is still way better. My buddy did one tank for me base clear with lots of clear on it, wet sanded, polished it looks amazing.

Posted: Mar 20, 2017 at 13:12 Quote
goodwrench wrote:
You can do a great rattle can paint job if you prep right and use a base and clear it over, then wet sand and buff. I have done a few motorcycle gas tanks and they look great, nobody believes me that they are rattle can paint jobs. Using a clear coat then the wet sand and polish make all the difference. One year in and the colours still look good. Of course pro stuff is still way better. My buddy did one tank for me base clear with lots of clear on it, wet sanded, polished it looks amazing.

making it look good isnt even the problem, ill take my finger nail to your rattle can paintjobs and its done... 2step is a much harder finish and powder coat rules them all. you can practically take a hammer to powdercoat thats done right. thats my point.

Posted: Mar 20, 2017 at 13:58 Quote
whitebullit wrote:
goodwrench wrote:
You can do a great rattle can paint job if you prep right and use a base and clear it over, then wet sand and buff. I have done a few motorcycle gas tanks and they look great, nobody believes me that they are rattle can paint jobs. Using a clear coat then the wet sand and polish make all the difference. One year in and the colours still look good. Of course pro stuff is still way better. My buddy did one tank for me base clear with lots of clear on it, wet sanded, polished it looks amazing.

making it look good isnt even the problem, ill take my finger nail to your rattle can paintjobs and its done... 2step is a much harder finish and powder coat rules them all. you can practically take a hammer to powdercoat thats done right. thats my point.

Finger nail damage, no not with the products I have used.... The tanks have stood up to regular use, knees against the side, road and rock spray, tank bags, gas spillage. But yes a proper two step with professional paint is better and the right painter can adjust the hardener and such. Powder coat is the ultimate in protection, as long as you can get the colour you want. I've had lots of control arms, differential housing powder coated and they still look good.

Posted: Mar 20, 2017 at 14:22 Quote
https://m.pinkbike.com/photo/13906372/ i powdercoated the frame and used epoxy paint for the links, was alot of work though, next time ill just leave the faded original color.


 
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