Yes. The first ones I came across were a 2011 set, and I've since installed several more raceface cranksets in the past few months, and the same thing. Intact some of the ones I installed even just 6 months ago are coming back after I greased them with dry bearings. I dont know if the seals are just junk or what. I'd say enduro bearing upgrade would solve all your woes.
Sad but true, you buy a high quality crank -I use RF cranks on all my frames and never had the cranks failing or other problems (nor had I any issues with the BBs of my Atlas AM and Atlas FR cranks) and then the BBs tend to suck. The Enduro option came to my mind too and I think I'll get myself one of their complete X-Type compatible BBs, as it's not that easy to get a bearing removal tool for the Turbine/X-Type BB around here in Austria.
The shimano bb is an applicable upgrade. As far as removing the bearings, I use a dead blow mallet and a small punch. As far as going back in, I use my headset press. Works like a champ.
I have creaking in my non drive side when applying pressure on hills new BB and pedals still creaking away.. 1 year old the crank set is. Just can't get ma head round it. Everything tight.
I have creaking in my non drive side when applying pressure on hills new BB and pedals still creaking away.. 1 year old the crank set is. Just can't get ma head round it. Everything tight.
Raceface turbine cinch
I had exactly the same thing with my race face turbine cinch cranks, only on the non drive side. I changed several pedals, bearings, the bb and loads more but turns out it was actually just that the axle (spindle) needed greasing where it connects to the non drive side crank arm. You'll need a 16mm hex (allen key) to get the lock ring off and then use the 8mm crank bolt with the lock ring from the drive side to separate the axle from the crank arm. The link below shows how you separate the axle from the crank arm a bit clearer and the interface I'm talking about (5:50ish) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNEel-bLAc8