Old Riders....But not "Old School"

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Old Riders....But not "Old School"
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Posted: Feb 13, 2011 at 22:15 Quote
leverfingers wrote:
When you boil the brakes, they lock up and the line bursts at the wheel caliper. You get burned the same as you would if you splashed deep fry oil on your legs. After that you must replace all the seals in the caliper - they're cooked. I don't care about weight, which is why I would consider throwing some CR levers onto my XX calipers. I think that the one piece lever body would sort me out. I also have the black floaties in my fluid. Even after one ride. It does in fact look like seal chunks or paint chips as was earlier mentioned by someone, but what Hustler said is also true, though I'm not sure my fluid is in there long enough to do that.

I will probably end up with saints. That's buying up one class - DH brakes for AM riding. Should do the trick - we'll see.

If anyone's wondering, I got into the industry through wrenching, and I still occasionally put in a shift at one of the shops in the village. So I bleed lot's o brakes to WBP standard. I have had wicked bad luck with SRAM stuff - I don't see the problems that I'm having on many customer bikes.
Check out Codes also, I'm 240 w/o gear and they've done me well, the new one's are taperbore style and even nicer than mine!

Posted: Feb 13, 2011 at 22:22 Quote
Yep, same deal - going up one class - good idea. Cheaper too. But still, my SRAM luck has sucked to date. I've got untill the snow melts to decide.

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 0:23 Quote
I find the worst thing with Avid brakes are the sticking and corroded pistons.

Likely, that depends on your local soil type though ...

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 0:54 Quote
got these for 2011 season, i sure hope they will stop my fat ass!

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 3:51 Quote
Dion, those codes look nice. the red ano bits would go pretty good with my bike.

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 4:02 Quote
yea dion these puppys will stop you fast! i had codes at the beginning of the season loads of power but the pad contact knob on the lever made them inconsistent thats where i got the term"code shuffle" pumping and turning that knob before each run. i rebuilt the levers and bled them frequently with no success. i then went to elixer r good breaks but they did not enough power to stop 260lb dude and a 50lb bike. then i bought saints stupid power,with metallic pads i was snaping spokes now with resin pad i think im dialed.
i guess the new code lever has been revamped to deal with the issues or if you have code fives whitch had no problems (i cant read whats on your lever my eye aint what they used to be) anyhow let me know how they are. very nice breaks bling bling big pimpin!

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 4:23 Quote
jamezyo wrote:
yea dion these puppys will stop you fast! i had codes at the beginning of the season loads of power but the pad contact knob on the lever made them inconsistent thats where i got the term"code shuffle" pumping and turning that knob before each run. i rebuilt the levers and bled them frequently with no success. i then went to elixer r good breaks but they did not enough power to stop 260lb dude and a 50lb bike. then i bought saints stupid power,with metallic pads i was snaping spokes now with resin pad i think im dialed.
i guess the new code lever has been revamped to deal with the issues or if you have code fives whitch had no problems (i cant read whats on your lever my eye aint what they used to be) anyhow let me know how they are. very nice breaks bling bling big pimpin!

these are not the code fives and i hear they work great! they are 2011 codes so i hope that pad contact isnt a problem ...dont know yet, and timmy the red bling would look good on any bike...lol

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 5:01 Quote
leverfingers wrote:
I will probably end up with saints. That's buying up one class - DH brakes for AM riding. Should do the trick - we'll see.

Gustavs, nothing like a little overkill for those cross country rides.


Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 6:03 Quote
I am looking at removeing my plastic bed liner in my truck and was wondering if anyone has done a do it yourself spray/paint on bed liner or should i spend the extra money to get it done professionally.

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 7:08 Quote
dion5000 wrote:
I am looking at removeing my plastic bed liner in my truck and was wondering if anyone has done a do it yourself spray/paint on bed liner or should i spend the extra money to get it done professionally.

I did a do it yourself job spray in bed liner but only on the tail gate. There was a lot of prep...sanding and what not. And it didn't hold up that well. My dog's nails would scratch away at it when he jumped in and out. I only used the crappy tire spray bomb shit thou. Might I suggest a thick rubber mat? I put one in my truck. Protected the bed of the truck, was non slip, easy to take out an clean....I can't remember how much but it might be an option.

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 7:23 Quote
Just go there dont cheap out look at your truck
http://www.bedliner.com/

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 8:43 Quote
mr-wilson wrote:
leverfingers wrote:
I will probably end up with saints. That's buying up one class - DH brakes for AM riding. Should do the trick - we'll see.

Gustavs, nothing like a little overkill for those cross country rides.

Confused bike is confused!! Me make frankenbike!!
edit:I know he was playing around.
Double edit: The new 2011 codes are amazing. Old ones were dece but needed alot of maintainance.

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 9:03 Quote
dion5000 wrote:
these are not the code fives and i hear they work great! they are 2011 codes so i hope that pad contact isnt a problem ...dont know yet, and timmy the red bling would look good on any bike...lol

Hmmm..tup
I put said Goodridge lines on a set of Code-5s , and they behave like Black Box race brakes. I think that they ( new ones, reg. codes) will be lots of WHOA for you.....as they managed to stop my "enhanced dimensions".

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 9:38 Quote
Ok what are your guys input on running braided lines on saints .I've heard not to but just for shits a giggles what do yas figure ?

Posted: Feb 14, 2011 at 9:49 Quote
Dion, those are the dreaded levers. Numerous bits of plastic and casting bits squeezed together with O-rings in between. This is the weak spot with my XX's. I'd like to know how that all works out over the season.

This descent I'm talking about is a 3000 foot rock slab that is very steep. Too steep to get off the bike once you're in. Scary at the beginning because if you come off you will roll all the way to the bottom - I think you would be killed. Then as you get closer to the bottom you are getting tired of clenching your will but the fall becomes shorter as you go. Yikes. It's a 5 - 6 hour climb to get there. No road up there either. Your brakes are on and working for a straight half hour to 45mins. My hayes mags, hayes HFX 9's and Juicy 7's could do it. Gustavs and XT's did not make it. XX's gave me a good ride and didn't boil, but still need a lot of bleeding between rides to keep working like that. And you want your brakes after the rock for the other 3000 feet of forest from the rock face down. One of the best descents ever.


 
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