Photographers of Pinkbike-READ THE OP

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Photographers of Pinkbike-READ THE OP
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Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 19:56 Quote
singletrackman wrote:
Take the shot with two riders in color and the rest black and white.

Vertical crop so it's the full height and wide enough to include a bit of the takeoff and landing, probably go with a 3X2, and make it colorful again.

Madder

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 20:55 Quote
Sorry, I meant this:
I think I would prefer this shot either fully black and white, or fully color.

Also, I think it would have been better as a vertically oriented shot, maybe from another angle, or maybe not. I don't like the composition too much, and that's the first thing that came to my mind, however, upon closer thought, I might suggest to include less takeoff and more landing. I like the action and what's going on in the shot, but the composition downplays how good a shot it could be for me.


EDIT: or simply a little less takeoff.

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 20:58 Quote
jonlakephoto wrote:
justhitit wrote:
ok, so in no way would that shot have been possible for the flash to freeze the rider with the sun out like that?

multiple flashes. for one way.

I had two firing at him but i think i was holding one and the other was on a light stand but thanks

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 21:20 Quote
justhitit wrote:
jonlakephoto wrote:
justhitit wrote:
ok, so in no way would that shot have been possible for the flash to freeze the rider with the sun out like that?

multiple flashes. for one way.

I had two firing at him but i think i was holding one and the other was on a light stand but thanks
The non blurry one was taken at 1/320, the blurry ones were taken at 1/200...

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 22:17 Quote
I finally understand that picture where its a building that has a photo shop sign! Wow fail. But its good.

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 22:18 Quote
Infiltrator wrote:
justhitit wrote:
jonlakephoto wrote:


multiple flashes. for one way.

I had two firing at him but i think i was holding one and the other was on a light stand but thanks
The non blurry one was taken at 1/320, the blurry ones were taken at 1/200...
Blurry at 1/200? were you shaking the camera violently hahahah?

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 22:20 Quote
sorbet wrote:
I finally understand that picture where its a building that has a photo shop sign! Wow fail. But its good.

because it's a Photo "shop" im still puzzled kinda

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 22:20 Quote
Evergreen-P wrote:
Infiltrator wrote:
justhitit wrote:


I had two firing at him but i think i was holding one and the other was on a light stand but thanks
The non blurry one was taken at 1/320, the blurry ones were taken at 1/200...
Blurry at 1/200? were you shaking the camera violently hahahah?

Facepalm

...moving subject...

Facepalm

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 22:21 Quote
Evergreen-P wrote:
Infiltrator wrote:
justhitit wrote:


I had two firing at him but i think i was holding one and the other was on a light stand but thanks
The non blurry one was taken at 1/320, the blurry ones were taken at 1/200...
Blurry at 1/200? were you shaking the camera violently hahahah?
ehh, i've found that anywhere below about 1/350 can produce a bit of blur in biking shots, mostly due to close, fast moving subjects.

he was saying that all of them were taken at 1/250... he was wrong

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 22:31 Quote
jonlakephoto wrote:
sorbet wrote:
I finally understand that picture where its a building that has a photo shop sign! Wow fail. But its good.

because it's a Photo "shop" im still puzzled kinda
Adobe photoshop!
The building is an adobe. so its an adobe photoshop

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 22:42 Quote
sorbet wrote:
jonlakephoto wrote:
sorbet wrote:
I finally understand that picture where its a building that has a photo shop sign! Wow fail. But its good.

because it's a Photo "shop" im still puzzled kinda
Adobe photoshop!
The building is an adobe. so its an adobe photoshop
Dude! mega props!

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 23:21 Quote
LOL, I posted that like 5 days ago haha.

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 23:23 Quote
PBPphotog wrote:
LOL, I posted that like 5 days ago haha.
And I only figured it out because of a thread on nsmb. lol

Posted: Jun 16, 2010 at 23:57 Quote
NorCalNomad wrote:
Evergreen-P wrote:
Infiltrator wrote:
The non blurry one was taken at 1/320, the blurry ones were taken at 1/200...
Blurry at 1/200? were you shaking the camera violently hahahah?

Facepalm

...moving subject...

Facepalm

bro, look at the shot, there was camera shake at 1/200 which means he wasnt holding the camera still enough.

Posted: Jun 17, 2010 at 0:40 Quote
Yes, there was a bit of camera shake. That can be remedied by not moving the camera while shooting.

However, what NorCalNomad was getting at was the blurred rider. To really freeze action like a mountain biker riding through the frame, you need shutter speeds of over 1/800th or 1/1000th of a second.

And as for freezing action with a flash- it has to be significantly brighter than the ambient light.

If the ambient light is nice and bright, and you expose for the ambient light and pop a flash, it won't do much at all. You have to underexpose the ambient light (the sun in this case) and fill in the missing light with your flash. THEN, it will freeze your shot.

The trouble with using a flash to freeze action on bright, sunny days, is that the sun is very bright on bright sunny days, and more often than not, your flash won't be powerful enough to do the job right. That is when you bring in multiple flashes, like somebody else already said. (can't remember who)

The trick is, your flash won't compensate the way you need it to if it's on an automatic mode. Plop your flash on full manual, choose a power setting between M and 1/64th, wherever you need it to be, and do work.


 
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