YT-Industries' bikes

PB Forum :: Downhill
YT-Industries' bikes
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flag AntonOP
Posted: May 14, 2018 at 12:44 Quote
Groscreux wrote:
@AntonOp True, only 571mm for the lyrik. The durolux was a serious contender for my fork choice, but finally choose the lyrik which is lighter (~200gr), cheaper (second hand) and comes with a more reliable cartridge than the Suntour.

I chose the durolux because I trust the same cartridge that is used in the rux, a fork that was made with the help of tippie and doerfling, I got my durolux on sale, new for 550, and weight isn't too much of a bother to me with this big hitting freeride fork. plus it's 20mm axle means I didn't need any adapter or new hub so yay
flag juanpkumicho
Posted: May 21, 2018 at 11:19 Quote
photo

First ride of the season on the big bike again!!! Tues 2016 AL. Big Grin Camera
flag Grumposaur
Posted: May 22, 2018 at 16:11 Quote
Broaap Smile

Any practical tips and advice on tools to replace ethirteen bottom bracket on CF Tues?

For cranks I will need the ethirteen tools, but the BB you can bold/twist loose and than tap out? The new one screws together? Or do I still need a bb30 press?
flag aanev
Posted: May 22, 2018 at 23:28 Quote
You will need only this tool:
https://bythehive.com/products/bb-spider-tool

...or adjustable spanner. However, with a spanner you will probably leave marks on the BB. I do not recommend it.

Instead of replacing the BB one can change only the bearings.
https://bythehive.com/products/bb-bearing
flag STV3
Posted: May 23, 2018 at 6:47 Quote
Grumposaur wrote:
Broaap Smile

Any practical tips and advice on tools to replace ethirteen bottom bracket on CF Tues?

For cranks I will need the ethirteen tools, but the BB you can bold/twist loose and than tap out? The new one screws together? Or do I still need a bb30 press?

I literally just did that last week.

They just screw together. No press needed.
flag Grumposaur
Posted: May 23, 2018 at 17:28 Quote
Thanks for the replies.

For price of two bearings you can get almost a complete bb..
And as I haven't have the crank tool yet i don't know for sure the issue. And pressing bearings might be harder?


STV3: did you need to grease inside of the Carbon frame?
flag STV3
Posted: May 24, 2018 at 7:07 Quote
There's a metal sleeve in there that the bb slides into and there was grease from the factory. So I cleaned it out and put some fresh grease in there.

Grumposaur wrote:
Thanks for the replies.

For price of two bearings you can get almost a complete bb..
And as I haven't have the crank tool yet i don't know for sure the issue. And pressing bearings might be harder?


STV3: did you need to grease inside of the Carbon frame?
flag kiggless
Posted: Jun 3, 2018 at 11:18 Quote
Hi EVERYONE,


My headset is an JOKE!. constantly tighting it to stop the noises. its now happening on both my YT TUES and my YT CAPRA.

been reading so much about it online and no idea what is right or wrong or what i need. but it is stopping me riding!!

Please could someone point in the right direction for the new parts i need from either Cane Creak or HOPE.

thanks in advance.

im a noob when comes to this so the clearer the better Smile .

would appreicate a PM instead of reply on thread unless others find it useful

regards
Kevin Daglish
flag jimferno
Posted: Jun 3, 2018 at 12:09 Quote
kiggless wrote:
Hi EVERYONE,


My headset is an JOKE!. constantly tighting it to stop the noises. its now happening on both my YT TUES and my YT CAPRA.

been reading so much about it online and no idea what is right or wrong or what i need. but it is stopping me riding!!

Please could someone point in the right direction for the new parts i need from either Cane Creak or HOPE.

thanks in advance.

im a noob when comes to this so the clearer the better Smile .

would appreicate a PM instead of reply on thread unless others find it useful

regards
Kevin Daglish

The design on the old CF frames have the headset bearings floating within the frame. You have to have all the planets of the solar system align for it to tighten up perfectly straight so it doesn't come loose.

Its a pain in the ass as mine comes loose on my Tues CF after a few fast downhill runs at an uplift. New bearings won't help as far as I can tell.
flag Macca400
Posted: Jun 3, 2018 at 13:09 Quote
kiggless wrote:
Hi EVERYONE,


My headset is an JOKE!. constantly tighting it to stop the noises. its now happening on both my YT TUES and my YT CAPRA.

been reading so much about it online and no idea what is right or wrong or what i need. but it is stopping me riding!!

Please could someone point in the right direction for the new parts i need from either Cane Creak or HOPE.

thanks in advance.

im a noob when comes to this so the clearer the better Smile .

would appreicate a PM instead of reply on thread unless others find it useful

regards
Kevin Daglish

I recently replaced the Acros head set with a Cane Creek 40-Series IS52 and Cane Creek 40-Series IS42 it's been a game changer. No movement now over the course of 4 or 5 uplift days.

I guess your fork steerer will determine whether you need the Cane Creek 40-Series IS52-40 or Cane Creek 40-Series IS52-30 for the lower.
flag dirch
Posted: Jun 3, 2018 at 22:20 Quote
My headset was loose out of the box.

Had to loosen the top crown bolts, tighten the top cap properly, then tighten the top crown pinch bolts back up.

I have an Alloy Tues 2017, and a friend has experienced the same thing on his CF Tues.

This solved the problem for both of us.
flag struc
Posted: Jun 6, 2018 at 7:06 Quote
dirch wrote:
My headset was loose out of the box.

Had to loosen the top crown bolts, tighten the top cap properly, then tighten the top crown pinch bolts back up.

I have an Alloy Tues 2017, and a friend has experienced the same thing on his CF Tues.

This solved the problem for both of us.
That is the only way you can tighten the headset
flag patrickbatemanworldtour89
Posted: Jun 6, 2018 at 8:17 Quote
Anyone else cooked the guides on their Tues? I found that with B1 calipers things were all good, the new S4 caliper pistons stick out too far and get beat to hell under heavy braking. That and watching a video Sram has out going over set up I feel I have confirmation on something: the Guide Ultimates have some nice and unnecessary extras. The Guide RSC's have everything needed to actually adjust the brakes well. Guide RS's and R's (do they still make RS's?) are missing things, mainly the contact point to even out lever feel between brakes.

That and the tolerances for manufacturing are awful. Sram and Shimano seem to use the Fightclub formula in that it's cheaper to warranty a certain percentage of brakes manufactured than it is to increase quality control.

For reference, I've blown up two sets of Zee's, two sets of Guides, rebuilt the calipers on the Guides 3 times, and I am a master at bleeding the big two's brake systems. However, I do not have the time to make them work and frankly can't trust either brand going 35mph+ on anything remotely steep and rough.

I was rebuilding the brakes last night, noticing the caliper bores are grooved and grabbing the pistons. Ah ha, I think, dead brakes! Again! Time to scour pinkbike for a good takeoff set. Then my fiance walks in, scowling. Here we go right? I'm about to hear how awful my bike is and what a slave I am to it. She speaks, as I calmly look up from what I'm doing:

"Look at brakes, new brakes. Only look at Downhill brakes. I don't care what they cost, we're getting you new brakes and they're going to work."

I'll still have a Kage RC and Boxxer RC on the bike, and GX drivetrain (for now, SB one single speed soon); but I will finally be able to trust my brakes. Definitely appreciate the things that work on your bike too when something like your brakes just refuse to function reliably.

TLDR; last night my fiance basically insisted that I buy Hope tech 3 V4's. She actually suggested Trickstuff Direttissima (I talk about bikes A LOT). Hope tech 3 V4's are the second string option in this situation. Holy balls batman, holy balls.
flag patrickbatemanworldtour89
Posted: Jun 6, 2018 at 14:15 Quote
Grumposaur wrote:
Code RSC..... Smile
So very tempting and I did think about it, for a good long time. I ended up getting the Hope tech 3 V4 set for a little less than I'd pay for retail on a set of Code RSC's. I probably (definitely) could have gotten brand new Code RSC's for less on Pinkbike. I'm paying for a warranty this time though. After all those other brakes I learned that lesson. The hard way. I also thought about buying a set of old codes and using the calipers for homemade RE's.

So, I'll see if Hope is the end all and be all.

OH! I priced out a set of Trickstuff Direttissima's with rotors, one of their steel bleed blocks, and a few extras like more pads and oil...$1250 dollars with a 6 month manufacturing lead time. Holy ouch batman. It does seem worth it though. I bet those brakes would outlast several downhill bikes. They're an absolute wet dream of engineering marvel. Besides, Trickstuff has designed brake fluids for Motorsport race teams, even an F1 team. They have a dot fluid with a dry boiling temp of 330 degrees Celsius. Their bionol mineral oil has a dry boiling temp of 300 degrees Celsius. There goes my jaw hitting the floor again.

 


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