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flag patrickbatemanworldtour89
Posted: Jun 7, 2018 at 15:59 Quote
Grumposaur wrote:
Code RSC..... Smile
My severe impatience has made this an option. Did you ever have problems on guides that you now don't have on the Code RSC's?

I've already spent 5 months, all rideable months here in NorCal, waiting for parts this year. I'm not about to wait 3-5 weeks for any west coast distributor to get Hope V4's in, especially now that I've done a fair bit of research and every 4 pot hydraulic mountain bike brake has the same set up issues when it comes to making dead certain the rotors are true, the calipers and pistons are centered, and to pay attention to piston travel/cleanliness/seal integrity.

Also, bleeding edge is the most amazing thing to happen to brake bleeding ever. I'd like to stick with that if I could.
flag Grumposaur
Posted: Jun 8, 2018 at 5:27 Quote
I went from Guide RS to Code RSC. I have less hand fatigue because they are more powerful. I must add I also use sinter on the RSC, while I had resin pads on the Guides.

The contact patch adjust works. I installed the set last year halfway the season and didn't need to re-bleed them since. I will do that soon, but more as a yearly service than a necessity because they are still good.

Important tip bleed with the contact dial like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACGyA1QVWIg&t=7m13s
flag patrickbatemanworldtour89
Posted: Jun 8, 2018 at 9:01 Quote
Grumposaur wrote:
I went from Guide RS to Code RSC. I have less hand fatigue because they are more powerful. I must add I also use sinter on the RSC, while I had resin pads on the Guides.

The contact patch adjust works. I installed the set last year halfway the season and didn't need to re-bleed them since. I will do that soon, but more as a yearly service than a necessity because they are still good.

Important tip bleed with the contact dial like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACGyA1QVWIg&t=7m13s

That's a really good video, full of good tips. Adjusting the contact dial halfway in for a bleed is brilliant. That and knowing he doesn't move the lever at all for a bleed, he just goes for it.

I was thinking though, Hope and Sram call for some pretty damn frustrating piston centering where you're working the lever and trying to hold a piston or set of pistons on one side in place. It sucks to do but helps so much for brake feel and durability.

So what I tried yesterday to center the pistons and get a perfectly centered brake was to put a flat piece of steel wide enough to cover both pistons in a vice. My thinking was I wanted a stationary dummy disc to set the brakes up on and not mess up the true on my rotors. I bolted an old vice to a 2" x 6" x 3' piece of wood I can stand on. I think the vice was $25 USD on eBay.

So instead of the normal advance/massage method where you reset the pistons over and over what I did was:

1. unbolt the caliper
2. undo a few clips/zip ties
3. put the board/vice contraption next to the bike and stand or kneel on it to anchor it
4. slide the caliper onto the flat steel (with old dead pads in to protect the pistons, the flat steel bar is your dummy "disc")
5. pull or push the caliper as needed while squeezing the lever to center the pistons, using the stationary steel bar to pull or push against as needed

This way it takes way less hand strength to do and way less time and I get a more balanced set of pistons. I know I probably didn't describe it well, I'll take pictures of my weird creation.

I'm probably going Code RSC as well. More parts and spares available, super stout and durable looking, better pistons (same material hope uses for pistons actually, phenolic plastic), and I looked, there is not as much space between the caliper body and brake pads for the pistons to stick out. When Sram says they made them more durable than the guides, I think that's the most important change.
flag Grumposaur
Posted: Jun 9, 2018 at 13:59 Quote
I like that vid over the official SRAM vids as he adds quite some good pointers and it is still originating from an SRAM tech guy and not some random internet hack. Smile

I think you are overdoing/thinking it with the centralising. You can just use a flat screwdriver between the pad and brake caliper housing and push it out in the way you want it to move. Just don't scratch your pistons with it.
Basically as in this Hopetech video: https://youtu.be/jhlFR_BvwLA?t=5m38s

This also works to get contact point closer on R or RS models.

I also changed out my E-thirteen BB on my Tues. I bought it around November 2016, so pretty much running it just over a season. I was surprised how dirty the bearings were on the inside. The dirt has to pass the weather cover and the bearing seal itself, and it was one very thick muck.

I replaced it by an E-thirteen PF set again. Quite annoying that the thread of the halves only meet after pressing it in a bit, so quite hard to get the initial thread locking in to each other.

The new bearing I packed fully with grease: they were like half full, and placed some grease inbetween the weather seal and the bearing as The hive suggest to.
https://service.bythehive.com/Guide/How+to+service+bottom+brackets/15?lang=en

I might upload some photos of the bearings later Smile
flag patrickbatemanworldtour89
Posted: Jun 9, 2018 at 20:58 Quote
I was overdoing it with the centralizing trying to center bad brakes I realized. The eureka moment? Centering the pistons on my new Code RSC's. I advanced them three times, each time separating them with the included pad spreader/spacer. Perfection.

I fitted my front Code RSC today. Oh yes, it is AMAZING. Why not the back you ask? There was a miscommunication when I called to order them. I had Guides with S4's and they could only order front brakes. Cool I say, can I use the hydraulic line from the Guide for the Code? Then I can just replace the hose for the rear and have a full set of Code RSC's in 24 hours, take a ride in the afternoon. I hear some shuffling over the phone, they pull apart two calipers, and check the banjo bolts (I assume) and say yes, I can switch the lines over.

Well, I meant the banjo bolts and banjo fittings. They just meant the hydraulic line, thinking I was asking if all Sram Hydraulic line is universal. I already know this and wasn't asking this at all. The banjos on the Guide and Code are entirely different of course. I called and I asked about this this evening. They said to just switch the banjo from the Code RSC to the Guide's longer brake line.

What?????? They told me to remove the one time pressfit aluminum collar, pull out the barbed banjo, on both lines, and switch the Code banjo over.

This isn't suggested or even possible as far as I know. Those metal press fittings on the banjos are chewed up from the factory. There's NO WAY Sram makes them for a consumer or dealer to ever do that.

So tomorrow I get to go in and tell them they're giving me the rear line off of a level T off a bike on the sales floor. I hate marching in and demanding crap, but I specifically asked them about this, mentioning the banjo fitting and bolt.

I cannot wait to ride tomorrow though. I shortened the line on the front and it's still rock solid. It feathers like crazy, feels and looks so solid. It makes my old Guide R's look like brakes made for ants, I couldn't heat it up being insane after bedding it in and seeing how fast I could get going and then slow down with just a front brake.

The answer is way faster than possibly feels safe, btw. Thank you @Grumposaur. I owe you a beer
flag Grumposaur
Posted: Jun 10, 2018 at 2:01 Quote
tup Beer

Except the banjo partMadder
flag jeremyk
Posted: Jun 10, 2018 at 15:27 Quote
Hi, keen to get some advice on this...

Ive got a 2015 Tues CF in large...that's a 450mm reach.

Do you think it's worth me sizing up to the (old) XL which has a reach of 470mm? I'm 6 foot 2 /188cm and a few people have said my Tues looks a bit small on me.

Just been for a spin on it and it feels fine, but don't know if the XL would be better

Thank you
flag Grumposaur
Posted: Jun 11, 2018 at 1:42 Quote
I think if you would buy one new today you should choose the XL.

But if you are happy now and don't have the feeling that the bike is holding you back anywhere no need for a direct upgrade.

Depends also on your budget. And if you are racing i would look for an upgrade.
flag patrickbatemanworldtour89
Posted: Jun 11, 2018 at 11:33 Quote
Grumposaur wrote:
tup Beer

Except the banjo partMadder

I whined here, but honestly the shop I went to was awesome. Alex at Giant of Reno/Sparks tried to sell me the hydraulic line and like a dummy I didn't listen. Lesson learned. It was pretty one sided of me to complain about his lack of awareness of the banjo bolt situation, but Sram has a lot of banjo bolts and part numbers so I can't claim I would have done any different in his place.

Still though, I bedded the front in and the rotor could boil lava it was so hot, the caliper though...cool to the touch. Under the same conditions I couldn't even touch my Zee's. And everything about the RSC lever is heavenly. Now just to deal with my drivetrain and suspension...

And build trail. My truck died, but my brother is willing to let me build on his 8 acres that is IN a canyon. It's a good day, even for having one brake still.
flag patrickbatemanworldtour89
Posted: Jun 11, 2018 at 11:39 Quote
dirch wrote:
My headset was loose out of the box.

Had to loosen the top crown bolts, tighten the top cap properly, then tighten the top crown pinch bolts back up.

I have an Alloy Tues 2017, and a friend has experienced the same thing on his CF Tues.

This solved the problem for both of us.

Funn makes a good headset for the aluminum Tues that I use. One, it looks so pimp, and two, if you're a Sam Hill fan, Funn is a familiar brand and inspiring to have on the big bike.

Most importantly, super easy to adjust and replace the Angular Contact (A/C) bearings. I had knocking when climbing on day one, after the whole loosen the steerer crown tighten the headset process (6.5Nm every time, one extra tug past firm by hand) it's been flawless.

I ride in dry dusty condtions, so ymmv
flag patrickbatemanworldtour89
Posted: Jun 11, 2018 at 11:46 Quote
jeremyk wrote:
Hi, keen to get some advice on this...

Ive got a 2015 Tues CF in large...that's a 450mm reach.

Do you think it's worth me sizing up to the (old) XL which has a reach of 470mm? I'm 6 foot 2 /188cm and a few people have said my Tues looks a bit small on me.

Just been for a spin on it and it feels fine, but don't know if the XL would be better

Thank you

How does it feel? A lot of what happens on the World Cup Circuit (like F1) goes like this:

The other guys is doing it and I'm not
Maybe I should do it because...
If he beats me and I didn't do it that could be the reason I lost
I have to eliminate every reason someone could beat me, I have to keep up with everyone else...

If it feels more comfortable it will be faster, that should be your entire thought process if you can demo the bike sizes in person.
flag patrickbatemanworldtour89
Posted: Jun 11, 2018 at 11:47 Quote
jeremyk wrote:
Hi, keen to get some advice on this...

Ive got a 2015 Tues CF in large...that's a 450mm reach.

Do you think it's worth me sizing up to the (old) XL which has a reach of 470mm? I'm 6 foot 2 /188cm and a few people have said my Tues looks a bit small on me.

Just been for a spin on it and it feels fine, but don't know if the XL would be better

Thank you

Also if you're racing and don't want to go insane, sell a Kidney and get a spare bike. You'll save yourself nights of sleep and hours of rest knowing you can fix it come Tuesday or Wednesday, instead of having to stay up all night before a race bleeding brakes and servicing suspension
flag jeremyk
Posted: Jun 12, 2018 at 5:00 Quote
LoganKM1982 wrote:
jeremyk wrote:
Hi, keen to get some advice on this...

Ive got a 2015 Tues CF in large...that's a 450mm reach.

Do you think it's worth me sizing up to the (old) XL which has a reach of 470mm? I'm 6 foot 2 /188cm and a few people have said my Tues looks a bit small on me.

Just been for a spin on it and it feels fine, but don't know if the XL would be better

Thank you

How does it feel? A lot of what happens on the World Cup Circuit (like F1) goes like this:

The other guys is doing it and I'm not
Maybe I should do it because...
If he beats me and I didn't do it that could be the reason I lost
I have to eliminate every reason someone could beat me, I have to keep up with everyone else...

If it feels more comfortable it will be faster, that should be your entire thought process if you can demo the bike sizes in person.

Thanks both for the replies.

I would love to an XL it's just being direct but that tends to be a bit tricky.

Grumposour- interesting you say that if buying new I should get the XL. I sort of have the same opinion based on the numbers. Anyone at my height (6 foot 2/188cm) do I you have the large or the XL please?
flag Grumposaur
Posted: Jun 12, 2018 at 12:50 Quote
Im 6ft, 183 cm and have an L.

I said that if you buy new you want to be on safe side with mail order. It is the general consensus that at your length xl would be the choice. Even with my length I would consider XL.

But that doesn't mean you couldn't be happy with an L. If you would have bought a bike 8 years ago it would have been even smaller Wink
flag Groscreux
Posted: Jun 12, 2018 at 14:19 Quote
I'm 6'3" (190 cm)aswell, I bought a size L in 2016 because size XL wasn't already available at this time. I feel really good on my Large Tues tho, I would recommend to you to keep your size L if you mainly ride bikeparks and freeride trails. I will consider a X-Large for my next purchase, I can feel on some steep and high speed sections that a longer front end could give me more confidence.

 


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