Dirt Jump Bikes. any bike welcome as long as its dj or street

PB Forum :: Dirt Jumping & Street
Dirt Jump Bikes. any bike welcome as long as its dj or street
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Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 14:22 Quote
crs-one wrote:
All I can really say is that it's a shame that "dentist wheels" implies wheels so expensive and impractical that only dentists use them, as opposed to wheels that will result in you seeing a dentist.

Sounds like both may be true in Enve's case, lol.

Posted: Jun 22, 2019 at 16:43 Quote

Well this is annoying. I knew the top plate wouldn't work but was hoping the wires would bend and stay. It works pretty good up until this point.

Posted: Jun 22, 2019 at 17:06 Quote
Is there space to put a tiny set screw in there? wouldn't take much clamping force to make a difference.

Posted: Jun 22, 2019 at 17:18 Quote
Somewhat ya. Another problem is way too much slack in the cable and the barrel adjusters are all maxed out. Gotta do some tinkering but easiest would be a new taller top plate like the one from nc17 brand. Just not worth 60€ plus shipping. And it's a Deity Cavity stem so no drilling tabs into the side because its hollow already.

Posted: Jun 22, 2019 at 17:26 Quote
ImMattWard wrote:

Well this is annoying. I knew the top plate wouldn't work but was hoping the wires would bend and stay. It works pretty good up until this point.

The gyro is upside down from traditional install. I know the head tube is over sized so just an observation

Posted: Jun 22, 2019 at 17:30 Quote
Ya usually for MTB frames you need to flip it. When it's flipped to the traditional way it doesn't go any lower than the headset cap so I lose a little bit of space that way. It also doesn't help how short I chopped my Pike's, so I might trade in for some Circus' and fit the gyro before giving the steerer tube a haircut

Posted: Jun 22, 2019 at 20:14 Quote
Perhaps a spacer or two in some sort of x.5mm increment instead of only having those three(?) to play with would help with your cable tension/maxed barrel-adjuster issue.

Posted: Jun 22, 2019 at 20:36 Quote
sixyearsondope wrote:
Perhaps a spacer or two in some sort of x.5mm increment instead of only having those three(?) to play with would help with your cable tension/maxed barrel-adjuster issue.

So the way the gyro sits it won't allow that, the spacers are needed so that that top plate doesn't make contact with the top/bottom of the gyro detangler, which basically doesn't make contact with anything including spacer or headset top caps, just kind of floats. I even ghetto rigged it and put the top plate above the stem, but immediately moved it back because it looked horrendous. But alas there is a few ways that work, one is the Odyssey G3 kit and the part that is used as the bottom gyro tab is used for the top plate upside down, with some grinding it works and someone on PB has done it, I just don't have the picture currently. But easier is Green bikes in Germany sells their own top plate, for 19 euros but just not in stock, I'm in no rush. I just got my tabs in the mail so just a quick dry fit. The Odyssey lower cable is more than long enough for MTB's, I even have to trim 3 inches to fit better to the rear brake, and the frame is long.

Posted: Jun 23, 2019 at 1:27 Quote
I've done wacky stuff to make gyros work, holy crap. I'm on day 3 of getting my rear wheel to lock properly on manuals ona recent bike rebuild. At the moment mine works with a district bar and an inch of spacers under a short stackish BMX stem. Even still I rpobably need to buy a 7" rise cruiser bar to get to work like a BMX gyro would.

I can take a pic of the gyro setup on my darmtoor ghetto(24" street mtb with tabs) if you think it'll help you. I've setup countless fairly complex London mods on bmxs and reg gyros on mtbs over the past few years, and first off, I can't give you any useful advice if I can't see what lever you're running and how far it is from the actual gyro in the pic. That's your main roadblock. I have an odyssey m2(ithink it's scratched and dented to all hell) lever and the shortest possible m2 cable. My headtube is super long (uncut from a rigid RNSfork) but I have quite quite a bit of room to play with. And yes the odyssey lower is the only company that makes lowers that work on mtbs. On top of that, odyssey is one of the only companys I'm aware of that make various-sized upper cable. I think 'oryg' does too, not sure.

Also edit- in the past i once filed down extra barrel adjusters and slipped them between to cable and lever and alternately, the cable and one side or both sides(with original barrel adjusters still fitted and screwed in all the way). Hope that makes sense. It takes a lot of trial and error but it worked for me when I had a much lower bar and less spacers

Posted: Jun 23, 2019 at 8:28 Quote
I do have the M2 and both the smallest and longest upper cable they had, thinking the longest was what is needed when the shortest works just as good.

It all comes down to that top plate for me. It's too wide compared to the stem so I have to run a spacer in between the stem and top plate. I think it's like a 32mm length stem, but in theory I could grind it down to make it fit directly under the stem gaining a few mm's. Other top plates out there look beefy as hell in comparison.

You should get a picture up on here because not only for me, a few pages back gyros made their way back into this forim, so I'm not the only one who might benefit from that. I saw it and figured why the f*ck not try it, I have the tabs factory drilled and it beats a super long hydro brake.

Posted: Jun 23, 2019 at 10:51 Quote
Oh yes, your plate is completely different from mine. I'm pretty sure I have an S&m plate and it has a groove that the stem sits in. You probably have to file the groove on that plate to be larger, but possibly not, I had the same setup on a hussefelt and it fit that stem too. Danscomp should have one that works. Another thing, you want a CX disc caliper because they're just far more powerful when paired with BMX levers.

Sorry I can't take a pic bc I'm at work , but maybe look into a 2-1 split upper oryg lcable instead of the m2 cable and lever. I only say that because 2-1 uppers occasionally have barrel adjusters to shorten the upper slack. Backed out all the way all g with the lever barrel, might kill all that slack.

Posted: Jun 27, 2019 at 11:07 Quote
So in the end got O1 Zircus frame (got it on last day of sale I think, because next day it was back up on 180 euros Big Grin ) Looks really great, is really light and gonna need some time to get used to it probably and until I get new headset for it. Also, for you that have this frame, do you too have black spots under clear coat? At first thought it was just smudged and wanted to clean it off, but then understood it's under the clear coat.

I had seen that some say paint isn't that good, but it was mostly about it chipping off easily. There are lots of these black spots on frame (like those on welding spots but camera takes them brighter than they are). I have them on downtube, toptube etc. almost on everything and theyre pretty easily visible, but not showing on camera. Just asking if it's normal or not.

Posted: Jun 27, 2019 at 18:38 Quote
Just laced up some fresh wheels. I've been waiting a long time for freestyle-specific carbon rims to hit the scene and with the wheel size switchup of recent years, I was losing hope it would ever happen. Then on top of that, I was absolutely certain nobody would offer it in 36h drilling - a necessity for my coaster. WeAreOne did it for me no problem, no upcharge, just a short wait while they tooled up for it.

I think this is probably as light as I can push my wheels without going back to a cassette hub or seriously compromising durability. Time will tell if this spoke and nipple selection was wise, but I think it will work out.

Front wheel:
WeAreOne Coup 32h rim
Sapim Laser spokes, 2x
Sapim Polyax alu 12mm nipples
Tune Dorte 15 hub (side note: I'm convinced this is the best brakeless hub to come and go regardless of weight)

Rear wheel
WeAreOne Coup 36h rim
Sapim Laser spokes, 3x
Sapin Polyax alu 12mm nipples
Affix Rhea (KHE Geisha Lite MTB) with female axle mod, titanium bolts, custom washers

So far, these look and feel great in person, and the superlative quality of the rims, even the spokes and nips, reminds me that I really need new hub bearings.

One more quick photo of dat layup in the sun.

Posted: Jun 27, 2019 at 20:01 Quote
What is a good budget mtb crankset? My 2015 norco two50 comes with no name bmx cranks with the sprocket welded onto it ????

Posted: Jun 27, 2019 at 20:33 Quote
3 piece or mtb?
Mtb Zee is awesome bang for buck. Too many good cheap generic bmx cranks out there to list

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