Dirt Jump Bikes. any bike welcome as long as its dj or street

PB Forum :: Dirt Jumping & Street
Dirt Jump Bikes. any bike welcome as long as its dj or street
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Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 11:27 Quote
CRS-ONE, that's a wild ass bike man! Looks rad! 21.x is crazy light for a sturdy DJ bike. I'm trying to figure out where you are saving all the weight. Rims i guess?

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 11:27 Quote
Anyone use RaceFace Chesters on their DJ? My current pedals have no grease and they're not able to be rebuilt, plus I have some credit at MEC which is the closest place I can buy them from, which will cover over half the cost of them. I've always been a fan of Chromags, but they're a bit out of the budget for my current build, which I'm trying to keep as cheap as possible

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 11:36 Quote
matt-15 wrote:
Anyone use RaceFace Chesters on their DJ? My current pedals have no grease and they're not able to be rebuilt, plus I have some credit at MEC which is the closest place I can buy them from, which will cover over half the cost of them. I've always been a fan of Chromags, but they're a bit out of the budget for my current build, which I'm trying to keep as cheap as possible
I used on my enduro and DJ , a little small for my feet 44.5

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 11:38 Quote
Saraiva111 wrote:
matt-15 wrote:
Anyone use RaceFace Chesters on their DJ? My current pedals have no grease and they're not able to be rebuilt, plus I have some credit at MEC which is the closest place I can buy them from, which will cover over half the cost of them. I've always been a fan of Chromags, but they're a bit out of the budget for my current build, which I'm trying to keep as cheap as possible
I used on my enduro and DJ , a little small for my feet 44.5
I'm around 42/43, so I think they'd be a decent fit

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 11:54 Quote
ZenkiS14 wrote:
CRS-ONE, that's a wild ass bike man! Looks rad! 21.x is crazy light for a sturdy DJ bike. I'm trying to figure out where you are saving all the weight. Rims i guess?

Thanks man! The rims made a big difference. In the back, with a 36h hub my choices for modern lightweight rims was essentially nonexistent. In the front, I only saved 20g relative the NS rim it replaced, but I went with lighter spokes and nipples on the assumption that the stiffness of the rim would spread impacts across more spokes, and the lack of bending would let me get away with aluminum nipples. So a much lighter wheel overall.

Beyond that, I try to save weight on parts themselves rather than just getting the lightest parts. The rear hub starts out as a 640ish gram porker, but mine is 517.5g now. I bought that seat, immediately threw out the bumpers, made a plastic replacement for the steel barrel washer inside, and then bought and cut down a hollow titanium bolt for it - 210g vs 280g stock without losing any of the padding. Same with the brake - alu-backed pads, alu lever bolt, titanium caliper and adapter bolts, machined adapter, rotor that is useless if you live anywhere with big hills

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 12:17 Quote
matt-15 wrote:
Saraiva111 wrote:
matt-15 wrote:
Anyone use RaceFace Chesters on their DJ? My current pedals have no grease and they're not able to be rebuilt, plus I have some credit at MEC which is the closest place I can buy them from, which will cover over half the cost of them. I've always been a fan of Chromags, but they're a bit out of the budget for my current build, which I'm trying to keep as cheap as possible
I used on my enduro and DJ , a little small for my feet 44.5
I'm around 42/43, so I think they'd be a decent fit
I'm around 42/43 also, and they fit me great. Grip is AMAZING.

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 12:27 Quote
man-wolf wrote:
matt-15 wrote:
Saraiva111 wrote:

I used on my enduro and DJ , a little small for my feet 44.5
I'm around 42/43, so I think they'd be a decent fit
I'm around 42/43 also, and they fit me great. Grip is AMAZING.
The grip is really good but for me they are a bit small but I think they are really great

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 14:36 Quote
crs-one wrote:
Cranks: Race Face Aeffect R 165mm

What happened to the atlases? Running a set on my endurbro and they're solid. There was a pretty high failure rate on the OG aeffects, why the swap?

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 14:42 Quote
I've been running same Atlas cranks for 4+ years now. I think they maybe slightly bent but otherwise I'm not replacing them anytime soon. The pedal threads have remained perfect as well.

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 16:11 Quote
jamieridesbikes wrote:
crs-one wrote:
Cranks: Race Face Aeffect R 165mm

What happened to the atlases? Running a set on my endurbro and they're solid. There was a pretty high failure rate on the OG aeffects, why the swap?

I bought the Atlas cranks to run on a frame with a threaded BB. That frame failed pretty quickly (with no replacement date in sight), putting me back on this frame which has a Spanish BB - no room for a 30mm spindle. So I got the Aeffect R because they let me reuse the RF ring I already owned, on the frame that I will be running for the foreseeable future.

Ideally I'd have a threaded BB shell and Atlas or Hope Evo cranks.

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 18:46 Quote
spyke wrote:
Jamestyrrell wrote:
spyke wrote:
The million dollar question is,does it leak and how is the brake feel?

Hasn't leaked at all and the brake is the same mate. The initial bite isn't as 'over-the-barsy' as it was before, but over all power still perfect, if anything it's better for feathering in manuals Smile I guess it's all down to how well it's bled. Got the shop to bleed mine haha
Is this the trixer 1 or trixer 2 gyro you have?

Looks like he has the trixer 2.

I have the same frame and a trixer (although I haven't installed it yet)! It looks like you used two gyro tab screws to hold the trixer in place, but the up most hole on the Absolute frame is not threaded. Did you just twist it in?

Posted: Dec 3, 2019 at 4:42 Quote
You cant just twist a bolt in. Can you not drill and tap it so a bolt threads in?

Posted: Dec 3, 2019 at 5:36 Quote
Thepureface wrote:
You cant just twist a bolt in. Can you not drill and tap it so a bolt threads in?

That would definitely be the easiest thing to do, a m3? (I assume by looking at it) tap would be a few bucks for a cheap one from home depot.

Posted: Dec 3, 2019 at 9:43 Quote
Woah you guys have home depot over there too

Posted: Dec 3, 2019 at 15:08 Quote
Thepureface wrote:
You cant just twist a bolt in. Can you not drill and tap it so a bolt threads in?

Yeah you can if it's a self tapping(I hope this is not true)


 
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