Sexiest Old-School DH Bike Out There

PB Forum :: Downhill
Sexiest Old-School DH Bike Out There
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Posted: Sep 21, 2021 at 4:17 Quote
And finally! Both Bazookas face to face.
The last model from the first generation (1999) and the first model from the third generation (2001)
Face to face Sintesi Bazooka III 2001 and Sintesi Bazooka I 1999
Sintesi Bazooka I 1999 and Sintesi Bazooka III 2001 both built with almost complete Team Sintesi original components layout
In my next post, will show the two Be One bikes from my collection

Posted: Sep 21, 2021 at 10:31 Quote
cool stuff going on here guys..! thanks for sharing...

Posted: Sep 21, 2021 at 19:45 Quote
adm750 wrote:
cool stuff going on here guys..! thanks for sharing...

More please! This is fantastic Mate!

Posted: Sep 22, 2021 at 2:03 Quote
annimaxdh wrote:
And finally! Both Bazookas face to face.
The last model from the first generation (1999) and the first model from the third generation (2001)
Face to face Sintesi Bazooka III 2001 and Sintesi Bazooka I 1999
Sintesi Bazooka I 1999 and Sintesi Bazooka III 2001 both built with almost complete Team Sintesi original components layout
In my next post, will show the two Be One bikes from my collection

Love them mate!!!!
I need to find new springs for my monster, thinking about converting fox40 internals into it Smile

Posted: Sep 22, 2021 at 2:23 Quote
carreiro-12 wrote:
annimaxdh wrote:
And finally! Both Bazookas face to face.
The last model from the first generation (1999) and the first model from the third generation (2001)
Face to face Sintesi Bazooka III 2001 and Sintesi Bazooka I 1999
Sintesi Bazooka I 1999 and Sintesi Bazooka III 2001 both built with almost complete Team Sintesi original components layout
In my next post, will show the two Be One bikes from my collection

Love them mate!!!!
I need to find new springs for my monster, thinking about converting fox40 internals into it Smile

Before doing that, you might check shafts lengths and if you will have enough room for them in a Monster T, also you will need to check that the overlap between stanchions and lowers is enough to keep them on place without compromising the stiffness and integrity of the fork

Posted: Sep 22, 2021 at 2:39 Quote
annimaxdh wrote:
carreiro-12 wrote:
annimaxdh wrote:
And finally! Both Bazookas face to face.
The last model from the first generation (1999) and the first model from the third generation (2001)
Face to face Sintesi Bazooka III 2001 and Sintesi Bazooka I 1999
Sintesi Bazooka I 1999 and Sintesi Bazooka III 2001 both built with almost complete Team Sintesi original components layout
In my next post, will show the two Be One bikes from my collection

Love them mate!!!!
I need to find new springs for my monster, thinking about converting fox40 internals into it Smile

Before doing that, you might check shafts lengths and if you will have enough room for them in a Monster T, also you will need to check that the overlap between stanchions and lowers is enough to keep them on place without compromising the stiffness and integrity of the fork

Yup, thats why its a conversion... or maybe just use the Fox40 stanchions and lower it from 200 to the 170 travel so that its nice and snug in the lowers... Kashima Monster T anyone??? Wink Finding stiffer Monster T springs is proving to be quite hard so far.

Posted: Sep 22, 2021 at 2:51 Quote
carreiro-12 wrote:
annimaxdh wrote:
carreiro-12 wrote:


Love them mate!!!!
I need to find new springs for my monster, thinking about converting fox40 internals into it Smile

Before doing that, you might check shafts lengths and if you will have enough room for them in a Monster T, also you will need to check that the overlap between stanchions and lowers is enough to keep them on place without compromising the stiffness and integrity of the fork

Yup, thats why its a conversion... or maybe just use the Fox40 stanchions and lower it from 200 to the 170 travel so that its nice and snug in the lowers... Kashima Monster T anyone??? Wink Finding stiffer Monster T springs is proving to be quite hard so far.
I don't see much point on the Fox 40 stanchions, other than allocating the fox 40 internals.
Setting the right travel, and the overlap between stanchion and lower will be challenging.
The anodizing of the Monster T stanchions is good enough to last over 20 years, even when fork is poorly serviced. With fox 40, I've seen worn out stanchions after one year without proper service.
Second point to consider: stanchion wall thickness. Monster T stanchions have a thick wall designed to withstand abuse, they didn't care much about weight, if would compromise strenght. On the other hand Fox 40 is a recing fork aiming for low weight and performance. I'm not sure of the stanchions wall thickness. You might check that one as well.

Posted: Sep 22, 2021 at 3:34 Quote
If the springs are too soft just use a heavier weight oil. Worked a treat in my OG Z2’s BITD.

Posted: Sep 22, 2021 at 4:14 Quote
Skootur wrote:
If the springs are too soft just use a heavier weight oil. Worked a treat in my OG Z2’s BITD.

mate heavier weigth oil just makes compression a bit slower, and wont help on preload and a sag setting.
I use 10w instead of the 7.5w that marzocchi says to use because i like the rebound tunning a lot more with 10w, but its a openbath fork and basically the only progressive compresion and preload it has is the springs itself.
As im heavy its using too much travel. Only harder springs can help with that. If i used a 15w or 20w it could slow a bit more compresion, and probably would ruin rebound, but as its a soft spring it will always be using too much travel and once it goes down on travel the spring wont lift the front up anyway.

Posted: Sep 22, 2021 at 11:25 Quote
carreiro-12 wrote:
Skootur wrote:
If the springs are too soft just use a heavier weight oil. Worked a treat in my OG Z2’s BITD.

mate heavier weigth oil just makes compression a bit slower, and wont help on preload and a sag setting.
I use 10w instead of the 7.5w that marzocchi says to use because i like the rebound tunning a lot more with 10w, but its a openbath fork and basically the only progressive compresion and preload it has is the springs itself.
As im heavy its using too much travel. Only harder springs can help with that. If i used a 15w or 20w it could slow a bit more compresion, and probably would ruin rebound, but as its a soft spring it will always be using too much travel and once it goes down on travel the spring wont lift the front up anyway.
A few years ago I installed alloy Schrader valves on each top cap of my monster T's, also because I needed heavier springs. I couldn't find any. It was a little scary at first, drilling holes in the top cap. But it worked great. I ran about 8 to 10 psi in each side, which worked really well. All I used was a alloy valve stem that would used on a car.

Posted: Sep 22, 2021 at 11:36 Quote
That is pretty much how marzocchi setup the springs in the later forks. Coil spring to get in the general weight range then tune with air.

Posted: Sep 22, 2021 at 12:04 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
That is pretty much how marzocchi setup the springs in the later forks. Coil spring to get in the general weight range then tune with air.
Ya, it worked great. Other than weight, I feel it was the best fork ever made for motorcycles that also could be used on a bicycle. All my monster's and shivers, the stanchions were always perfect as far as wear goes. I never even ran stanchion protectors on the shivers.

Posted: Sep 24, 2021 at 1:58 Quote
Back to the Bazooka topic, the next challenge is a full overhaul and repainting of the frame.
I have no experience with paint remover. Can anyone illustrate to me about their experience with this kind of job?
Sintesi Bazooka III 2001 Work in progress Every day getting closer to be fully restored Built with most of the original Sintesi team components layout. FIZIK Atlas DH Saddle

Posted: Sep 24, 2021 at 3:21 Quote
annimaxdh wrote:
Back to the Bazooka topic, the next challenge is a full overhaul and repainting of the frame.
I have no experience with paint remover. Can anyone illustrate to me about their experience with this kind of job?
Sintesi Bazooka III 2001 Work in progress Every day getting closer to be fully restored Built with most of the original Sintesi team components layout. FIZIK Atlas DH Saddle

I used a paint remover on mine. Just aplyed it with a paintbrush and let it work for a couple of minutes and clean the paint off. Do it a couple of times and your good.


Posted: Sep 24, 2021 at 14:38 Quote
Keep in mind aluminum will tarnish if it isn't coated, and most clear coats slowly die from UV rays. You will need to hit it with a scotchbrite pad from time to time.


 
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