2010 Boxxer owners READ THIS

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2010 Boxxer owners READ THIS
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flag WillChatburnDiggers
Posted: Feb 14, 2010 at 13:00 Quote
If anyone out there has a set of Boxxers that are new and not been serviced i think you should check them out.i was really disappointed with the boxxers at first but after giving them a basic service i came across an issue.

After undoing the bottom of the boxxers and releasing the lowers from the stanchions hardley any oil came out.I had containers under each leg to capture the oil.

Now,in the sram technicians manual it reads that there should be 10ml of oil in the drive side/Rebound leg.I measured about 7ml,but id say some oil would be stuck the inside of the lowers and stanchions so this would be alright.Sram say there should be 40ml in the non drive side,i measured the grand total of NONE !! A couple of drips to be fair but not enough to even syringe up.Shocking.

So i put the forks back together and greased the seals and a little on the bushings.Sram only say grease the seals...I greased the bushings of my own accord.I then put the correct amount of oil in each leg and then fully assembled the fork.I used Silkoline PRO RSF suspension oil,ive used the same brand in my 40s for years.

Running SWEEEEET now.Ive been riding today and what a difference a TOTALLY different ride.All the info on how to do this is available on there website and takes maybe 40 mins the 1st time you do it and is really easy if you have all the instructions printed in front of you.
flag
Posted: Mar 4, 2010 at 21:05 Quote
This is a popular issue with the new Boxxers. The factory doesn't lube the lowers enough. When you buy a new Boxxer make sure the first thing you do before riding it is pulling the lowers off and putting the right amount of oil in the lowers. Also grease the seals and bushings.


All Boxxers use 15 wt suspension oil

Boxxer WC --- 10cc's of 15 weight oil on both legs
Boxxer Team/Race ------ 10cc's on the dampner side and 40cc's on the Spring side 15 weight oil.


The WC spring side is a closed since its Solo Air hence why less oil.
The Team and Race Spring assembly has an opening allowing oil to seep into the spring side. A lot of the oil will be absorbed by the grease on the spring thats why Rock shox recommends 40cc's


Pink Bike should Sticky this
flag yukonrider
Posted: Mar 7, 2010 at 21:17 Quote
For even more butteryness, use a mix of half 5wt rockshox oil, and half rockshox red rum. Put this mix, in the prescribed amount, in the lowers, slick honey in the seals, and it will be money.

I also put finish line stanchion lube on mine, and now it rides better (in the parking lot) than my old one I rode a full season, and it still hasn't hit a trail. It will only get smoother once its broken in!
flag felt20
Posted: Mar 11, 2010 at 20:09 Quote
yukonrider wrote:
For even more butteryness, use a mix of half 5wt rockshox oil, and half rockshox red rum. Put this mix, in the prescribed amount, in the lowers, slick honey in the seals, and it will be money.

I also put finish line stanchion lube on mine, and now it rides better (in the parking lot) than my old one I rode a full season, and it still hasn't hit a trail. It will only get smoother once its broken in!


I seen this in a tech tip in mountain bike action..does it work..my 2010's will be here tomarrow..
flag yukonrider
Posted: Mar 15, 2010 at 12:06 Quote
Yes it works. I have one ride on the fork, and it feels amazing. I'm going to do a few more rides then change the oil, and re-lube the seals. Should be money for a while then.
flag pbuser102331
Posted: Mar 15, 2010 at 12:09 Quote
Tim flooks at http://www.tftunedshox.com/ already sells a mix similar to that.
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Posted: May 24, 2010 at 11:24 Quote
awesome thanks!
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Jan 26, 2011 at 2:48 Quote
Just wondering, when I look at the service manual it says to take the sanctions out of the fork bottoms individually. Can you instead do it like they do with the single crown, that is just take the lowers off and leave the sanctions in the crowns, would be a much easier way of doin it id have thought.

Cheers
flag bikerboywill
FL
Posted: Jan 26, 2011 at 3:52 Quote
Yea you can but it's more likely your going to damage the seals and bushings
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Jan 26, 2011 at 5:17 Quote
bikerboywill wrote:
Yea you can but it's more likely your going to damage the seals and bushings

How?
flag bikerboywill
FL
Posted: Jan 26, 2011 at 5:20 Quote
well you have to line both legs up and slide them in together and its alot harder apparently, only going from what tf tuned say, but im gonna leave my stantions in the crowns when i do mine
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Jan 26, 2011 at 7:27 Quote
bikerboywill wrote:
well you have to line both legs up and slide them in together and its alot harder apparently, only going from what tf tuned say, but im gonna leave my stantions in the crowns when i do mine

Ah right, yea, I watched the youtube video's on it and the seals do look like they could be difficult but with patience and a steady hand it should be ok...
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Jan 27, 2011 at 8:30 Quote
Just incase others want info on all this... Here are Youtube video's to help show you how its done.

in order;


Lower leg removal

Mission control damper (Team/R2C2& World cup)

Motion control damper (Race/RC)

Lower leg install


Hope this helps someone.
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Jan 30, 2011 at 7:44 Quote
Just finished doing this. WOW! They are sooooo much more plush. You notice most over small bumps where before they just wouldn't move and now they react to everything. If they are supposed to get better once they start getting bedded in then I cant wait!


The actual job was pretty easy to be honest. Took about 30 mins. Putting the sanctions back in the seals was pretty simple as well which is nice. Just have to do as the video's say.

So id 150% recommend this!
flag bikerboywill
FL
Posted: Jan 30, 2011 at 9:44 Quote
im gonna do it soon as mine arnt very good on the small bumps, i just rekon i need to lube up the seals
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