Does anyone know how to remove bike paint/polish the frame?

PB Forum :: Dirt Jumping & Street
Does anyone know how to remove bike paint/polish the frame?
Author Message
Posted: May 4, 2008 at 11:03 Quote
evanmott wrote:
pussimunger wrote:
i have had 2 frames blasted with walnut shells,and it make the bike like new,except unless the bike has some scratches.

gets rid off all paint,yes in those hard to get at spots,and gets rid off all grease and anything else,and there is no pitting.

this is the ONLY "professional" way to go

don't settle for anything less

and it does not cost any extra

trust me,do the walnut shells blasting and i gaurentee you will thanks meBeer
meh id rather go with bead blasting or soda blasting. its the smoothest surface that u can get and its more enviromentaly friendly. and it is not the only professional way to go

walnut shells are the most enviromentaly friendly way to go,how do you think bead or soda are more enviromentaly friendly?

and the finish from walnut shells brings the bike back to the way it was before the factory painted it...

so you could consider the item would be brand new,no better finish than brand new "unpainted"

Posted: May 4, 2008 at 11:08 Quote
imo the easiest way for someone to remove the paint is using a chemical paint stripper. is available at nearly all hardware stores, and removes paint efortlesly. There was some grease on my frame after and i have a few cans of carb cleaner i just used that to spray off the grease. i have sandblasted and use other methods in the past but this one is deffinetly the easiest and cheapest. just buy
-paint stripper
-paint brush
-plastic scraper
-can of carb cleaner
it should cost less then 20 $ and take about 45 mins total. 30 mins will just be waiting for the stripper to work cause you have to leave it on for half an hour. The only downside to this method is that if u get the stripper on your skin its acid based and it burns abit so i would sugest wearing ruber or latex gloves. also if there is and difficult areas a razor blade can be handy to get in there because its smaller then the scraper. If you have a pressure washer lying around to that can be handy. instead of scraping all the muck off after just lay the frame on some grass and spray it all off. will look mint afterwards

Posted: May 4, 2008 at 11:08 Quote
evanmott wrote:
pussimunger wrote:
unfortunatly the only downside to walnut shells,is you can't do this at home

you would need to have a professional do this
no you dont u just need the right sandblaster and the walnut shells. thats like saying u can't put a nail in a wall. you just need a hammer and a nail

i guess ur right in a way,but who's gonna shell out the paper for the"special bead blaster that accepts walnut sheels" and the walnut shells for the one time it gets used.

for me a front triangle costs $40 and the rear 20 to get walnut shell blasted,thats nothing compared to the price to go and buy the equimpment,if if you could find it used

and also all you guys have to consider the time it takes to try and do it urself,and you yourself could never do as good as job as the walnut shell blasting

Posted: May 4, 2008 at 11:10 Quote
pussimunger wrote:
evanmott wrote:
pussimunger wrote:
i have had 2 frames blasted with walnut shells,and it make the bike like new,except unless the bike has some scratches.

gets rid off all paint,yes in those hard to get at spots,and gets rid off all grease and anything else,and there is no pitting.

this is the ONLY "professional" way to go

don't settle for anything less

and it does not cost any extra

trust me,do the walnut shells blasting and i gaurentee you will thanks meBeer
meh id rather go with bead blasting or soda blasting. its the smoothest surface that u can get and its more enviromentaly friendly. and it is not the only professional way to go

walnut shells are the most enviromentaly friendly way to go,how do you think bead or soda are more enviromentaly friendly?

and the finish from walnut shells brings the bike back to the way it was before the factory painted it...

so you could consider the item would be brand new,no better finish than brand new "unpainted"
man i have blasted lots of stuff before. and i no with my familys boat that we had sandblasted for over a month and a half everyday and i was there helping talking with the guys sandblasting and they said if i wanted to do my bike and then polish it that soda blasting or bead blasting is a great way to do it if i want it blasted because it wont damage the metal and i wouldnt have much work to polish it

Posted: May 4, 2008 at 11:12 Quote
pussimunger wrote:
evanmott wrote:
pussimunger wrote:
unfortunatly the only downside to walnut shells,is you can't do this at home

you would need to have a professional do this
no you dont u just need the right sandblaster and the walnut shells. thats like saying u can't put a nail in a wall. you just need a hammer and a nail

i guess ur right in a way,but who's gonna shell out the paper for the"special bead blaster that accepts walnut sheels" and the walnut shells for the one time it gets used.

for me a front triangle costs $40 and the rear 20 to get walnut shell blasted,thats nothing compared to the price to go and buy the equimpment,if if you could find it used

and also all you guys have to consider the time it takes to try and do it urself,and you yourself could never do as good as job as the walnut shell blasting
meh id rather do it myself i've done a fair bit of blasting before and i wouldnt want to wait for the shop to squeeze it in

Posted: May 4, 2008 at 11:14 Quote
evanmott wrote:
imo the easiest way for someone to remove the paint is using a chemical paint stripper. is available at nearly all hardware stores, and removes paint efortlesly. There was some grease on my frame after and i have a few cans of carb cleaner i just used that to spray off the grease. i have sandblasted and use other methods in the past but this one is deffinetly the easiest and cheapest. just buy
-paint stripper
-paint brush
-plastic scraper
-can of carb cleaner
it should cost less then 20 $ and take about 45 mins total. 30 mins will just be waiting for the stripper to work cause you have to leave it on for half an hour. The only downside to this method is that if u get the stripper on your skin its acid based and it burns abit so i would sugest wearing ruber or latex gloves. also if there is and difficult areas a razor blade can be handy to get in there because its smaller then the scraper. If you have a pressure washer lying around to that can be handy. instead of scraping all the muck off after just lay the frame on some grass and spray it all off. will look mint afterwards

45 minutes total for the front triangle of a full suspention ,and another 3 hours to get in the hard to reach areas ie. bottom bracket area,headtube area and every single weld ETC...,as the stripper does not work on welds

i do know this for sure as a friend tryed this method,told me he would never do it again after seeing my walnut blasted bike fresh back from the painter

Posted: May 4, 2008 at 11:16 Quote
pussimunger wrote:
evanmott wrote:
imo the easiest way for someone to remove the paint is using a chemical paint stripper. is available at nearly all hardware stores, and removes paint efortlesly. There was some grease on my frame after and i have a few cans of carb cleaner i just used that to spray off the grease. i have sandblasted and use other methods in the past but this one is deffinetly the easiest and cheapest. just buy
-paint stripper
-paint brush
-plastic scraper
-can of carb cleaner
it should cost less then 20 $ and take about 45 mins total. 30 mins will just be waiting for the stripper to work cause you have to leave it on for half an hour. The only downside to this method is that if u get the stripper on your skin its acid based and it burns abit so i would sugest wearing ruber or latex gloves. also if there is and difficult areas a razor blade can be handy to get in there because its smaller then the scraper. If you have a pressure washer lying around to that can be handy. instead of scraping all the muck off after just lay the frame on some grass and spray it all off. will look mint afterwards

45 minutes total for the front triangle of a full suspention ,and another 3 hours to get in the hard to reach areas ie. bottom bracket area,headtube area and every single weld ETC...,as the stripper does not work on welds

i do know this for sure as a friend tryed this method,told me he would never do it again after seeing my walnut blasted bike fresh back from the painter
well your friend probably didnt score it first then cause it didnt take me nearly that long

Posted: May 18, 2008 at 5:39 Quote
get some paint stripper, i used it on my mongoose thunderball and it took of ALL the paint in minutes and it was so easy Big Grin
- you can find it in most DIY stores-

Posted: Oct 20, 2009 at 15:02 Quote
They had like a spray can...you spray that thing on your bike (aerosol) and in 20 minutes paints literally comes off by it self - all you need to do then is just to use some cloth to wipe it off. Really easy to use! Very toxic =(

Posted: Apr 16, 2010 at 12:22 Quote
do i use clear coat after i polished it or what plz help

Posted: Sep 13, 2010 at 15:30 Quote
i just beadblasted my 2010 glory frame... looks mint and didnt change the thickness of the frame at all. we did a test on a peice of aluminum plating (1/8" thick), held the beadblaster in one spot and it didnt go through. i used recycled beads however just to be safe(do this in a cabinet and it recycles the beads unless you pay for fresh ones)
ill post up pics after i get it back from powdercoat(before and after)

Posted: Sep 14, 2010 at 6:16 Quote
DestroyerLWS wrote:
do i use clear coat after i polished it or what plz help

if you mean clear coat the metal, then no. it flakes off after a while. if its aluminium you can polish it up and it looks quite good. (see my 'frames' album to look at my orange for example)

if its steel, then you dont want to strip it in the first place because it will rust. clear coating it with laquer only slows down the process for a while. because moisture from the air gets under the paint, and a few weeks down the line you will start to notice small spots of rust, which will gradually worsen

Posted: Sep 14, 2010 at 6:33 Quote
I use Nitromors paint stripper in the green tin, just apply it thick with a paint brush, leave it for 15 minutes & then scrape it off, after that you can either use steel wool to get a brushed finish or a polish for high shine, I've done both of my bikes.

The steel wool method:
photo

The polish method (doesn't show up that well but trust me it's shiny):
photo

Posted: Sep 14, 2010 at 6:41 Quote
stripped with the nitromors but without use of sandpaper/scowering pads, or anything that leaves little scratches in the finish

polished to within an inch of its life. it looked like chrome almost. photo taken indoors, so it looked so much better out in the sun Smile

photo

Posted: Sep 14, 2010 at 6:42 Quote
sean-s-1991 wrote:
polished to within an inch of its life. it looked like chrome almost. photo taken indoors, so it looked so much better out in the sun Smile

photo
Nice! That's pretty much what my STP looks like in person.


 


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