![Easton construction details]()
Easton's team of wheel-builders, designer/engineers and product managers are ready to talk about any aspect of their products, from on-dirt performance to how they are made.
The folks at Easton will host PB's 'Ask Us Anything' on Monday, March 11 starting at 9:30 AM Pacific time. Easton was the powerhouse factory that first showed the world how to manipulate aluminum tubes - a game-changing process resulted in handlebars and framesets with strength-to-weight numbers that defied conventional engineering at the time. Later, Easton brought its composite technology to cycling, manufacturing the first trustworthy carbon components designed for hard-charging dirt riders. Presently, Easton's innovative designs, advanced manufacturing processes and industry-standard testing protocols have been applied to a wide range of cockpit and drivetrain components, and elite-level wheels for both mountain bike and road applications. So take advantage of Easton's unparalleled component manufacturing experience and fire away. Ask them anything.
Meet Easton's Team
How 'Ask Us Anything' WorksType your question into the 'Comments' box at the bottom of this page and Easton's staff will answer it below. Feel free to direct your question to a specific person. Every question and answer will be published for all to see, so you may want to scan previous comments to see if the information that you seek has already been posted.
Easton tests a handlebar for fatigue strength. The machine
flexes it thousands of times more than it will see in actual use.Helpful tips:
• Try to stay on point. Ask one question at a time and follow your question with a brief context about the situation, for example: add your weight, riding style and your bike after a question about handlebar strength.
• Try to keep your questions to about 100 words.
• Ask Us Anything is a service to PB readers who are seeking helpful information, not a forum to broadcast opinions or grievances. If you do have a negative issue that you want to ask about, no worries, just keep your complaints relevant and in the context of a question so that it can be addressed in a productive manner.
• Use comment propping to up-vote questions you care about, and down-vote the losers.
![Easton Havoc 35 bars and stems]()
Easton's oversized, 35-millimeter Havoc DH handlebar system has been well received by racers and riders alike.
About Easton Cycling:Easton Cycling is two parts science and one part passion. Born at the 1984 Olympic Games in Los Angeles, California, Easton Cycling exists for one reason — to make bikes better. Everything we do is based on performance. We embrace new materials, create new technologies and introduce industry standards all to make your bike ride smoother, go faster and last longer.Check out Easton's Tech Center
www.vibranator.com
One of the geniuses behind them, Don Richardson, is who invented the full floating shock linkage (successfully suing suzuki when they stole the design) and who also actually inventer Inertia-Valve Shocks FIRST (it damn well wasn't anyone at Specialized or Fox).
Just to add dont really agree with the whole 35mm new standard easton are trying to sell, i get the reasons why and its fair enough but stop giving us more standards and compatability issues, its just not worth it, are you really going to notice the gain over 31.8mm bars?
Handlebar size IMO is not that. Its not a real change in standard. If you want to go to the 35mm bars, or even switch back, all it takes is a change of stem. Its not like bikes need to be manufactured differently to accommodate the 35mm bars. I see this no differently than say something like the I-beam seat/post. If you want an beam seat you need a new post, nothing more. Its just an option. I didn't see people getting all bent out of shape over that, complaining about a new standard.
We're happy to hear that you're enjoying your Enve bar. But we're Easton, we didn't want to make a bar "as good" as the Enve. We wanted to make something better. And we're proud to report that our Havoc 35 Carbon bar is stronger/lighter and stiffer. But, thanks to the rider feedback, the bar isn't "too" stiff. Does that answer your question?
(Background: I'm a 2nd year ME major trying to figure out what I'll do if I survive the next two years)
I'm just curious because there are a huge diference between a world cup downhill racer and the avarage amateur rider and theoretically you make the components to sell to the avarage rider.
Thanks
RF was bought by and EX Easton CEO.
I have a 2011 Easton Haven wheelset, which has been fixed under warranty twice due to the bearing preload adjuster that loosens during use. Is there any fix available for the 2011 model? Both warranty repairs have consisted of just replacing it with the same parts again, and it never lasts more than one ride before loosening again.
If the hub number is M1-121 then yes. If not give us a call.
here are some videos to help with the hub numbering: www.pinkbike.com/news/Easton-Cycling-Hub-Upgrade-Kit.html
Recently I built a Santa Cruz Nomad 2012 C. I finished the build last month. The wheels I chose were Easton Havoc USTs. These were half the price of carbons and were the easiest setup and so far have held up with no issues. The workmanship on them is excellent. No complaints. I have also recently purchased the Easton 35mm boxxer stem and orange bar. the combo is so noticeable in terms of turning and stiffness that if I ever build a new Ibis Mojo HD, it will get the Easton 35 treatment.
www.pinkbike.com/photo/9254050 my recently built up Santa Cruz V10c with Eastons Havoc USTs and 35mm Havocs
my 2011 ibis mojo hd with easton bits:
www.pinkbike.com/photo/8874063
www.pinkbike.com/photo/8874065
www.pinkbike.com/photo/7565363
Could you give a few more details as to why the rims are not compatible with J-bend hubs? I have never heard of rims being specific to J-bend or straight pull.
Selling the rims individually would be great.
Thanks!
The UST nipple system we use needs to be explained first; there is a precision formed insert in the rim at each spoke hole. The insert has a left hand (reverse) thread which is lined up exactly with the spoke hole in the hub when it's eventually assembled.
The nipples have complimentary left hand threads on the outside and regular, right-hand, spoke threads on the inside. This turnbuckle system allows us to true and tension the wheels like normal, adds durability and cuts weight when compared normal nipples. unfortunately when you try to assemble this on a j-bend spoke/hub it leads to two problems;
1 - The assembly procedure necessary to achieve a strong, fully-tensioned, wheel requires the spoke to spin in the hub while getting the nipples started in the rim. Something not possible with J-Bend spokes/hubs.
2 - While lacing a normal wheel the spokes and nipples can be loose and 'float' in the rim while the other end is fixed at the hub.
Threading the nipple into the rim precludes this ability and forces all the spokes to make some wacky bends and curves between the hub and the rim. this makes it really really easy to cross thread the nipple/rim threads. Not to mention that you cant thread the thing into the rim because the spoke won't twist indefinitely.
We have tried everything we can think of to build UST rims on j-bend hubs, and we've found methods to achieve basic assembly but proper tensioning is not consistent, predictable, or usually even possible.
A lot of rims were destroyed in that experiment.
The tubeless nipple/rim system is simlar for mavic (except for the god damn proprietary nipples) but does mavic drill the rim holes in the direction of the the spoke?
Both systems work well but if you dive a bit deeper the differences become more important.
The 'fore' process involves making a very thick (heavy) rim. Push some of the thick material at the nipple bed to the inside of the rim and then tap threads into it. Milling processes are then used to remove as much of the excess material as possible.
The Easton UST process (which doesn't have a catchy name) allows for a very light rim which is drilled and then has threaded inserts formed in place. The process of forming these inserts sandwiches a large area of nipple bed making a super strong connection between the thin nipple bed and the threaded insert.
We think this gives us a couple of advantages;
-Use regular spokes (we do have special nipples though)
-No need to attempt to machine out the extra rim weight which was added for the early part of the process. This translates into wider rims at the same weight.
-Armored Ballistic Composite, UST, rims!
Alternatively, could you make a stem that's both 35mm long and 35mm in bar clamping diameter?
My son is a beast on bikes. He is a factory racer (company not disclosed intentionally) and has destroyed a couple haven stems (55mm). The havoc carbon bars have held up well. The stems distort and become twisted over time. When contacting your customer service the replacement price we receive is much higher than what we can obtain them for at an online retailer. I would think that as a company, if you are serious about developing a quality product that you would want to both take care of the riders who push your products over the edge and more importantly, get your hands on product suffering catastrophic failure.
What would be a similar bar to upgrade to? I ride XC/AM primarily out in Oakridge, Bend and near the McKenzie in Oregon. Is there any sort of crash-replacement warranty I might subject to?
Our Havoc Carbon bars represent the evolution of the bars you're currently running.
Thanks so much!
I'm looking for a conversion axle for Easton Havoc 20mm through axle to drop it down to 15mm
Searching the forums, I believe there is a part available for this - can I get it in the UK?
Thanks guys - amazing wheels!
Happy Trails!
I've got 2 daughters 7 & 9 who are on Specialized Hot Rock bikes. The components are BOAT ANCHORS. I can look in any other product category in sports and find lightweight, modestly priced gear for youth athletics, but not for 20" and 24" kids bikes. Slim, relative lightweight flat pedals, Decently durable, light weight bars, stems, seatposts, etc that you can trust and don't put your kid riding a tank.
Plus, parents buying kids bike parts are more affluent. You're after a more affluent market in bikes right?
One stop shop for kids upgrade piece parts that all have a universal standard would be great. Most people don't have time to pick and choose one part at a time off of sites like that. Imagine you are like me and just bought a Hotrock 20" for your kid off Craigslist for $80!!! But the only parts light enough for kids have to be chopped, hacked and retro fitted from BMX bikes.
Now, go search for a Kawasaki KX50 or KX80 and upgrade parts. They're all over the place. Just saying.
gp1.pinkbike.org/p4pb6309682/p4pb6309682.jpg
We love it!
www.pinkbike.com/photo/9035399
I just turned 15 and i know I'm really young to be saying and asking this but i want to become a professional mountain biker Everybody always tells me that i am super fast and really fluent and that I'm really good and they will look for me in the pros, i dream about riding its all i talk about and almost the only thing i do or talk about. But i don't know how to get noticed or how to get sponsored.I learned to ride no too long after i learned to walk, and Ive ride every day bmx mountain and occasionally dirt bikes when my dirt bike is cooperating which isn't often but o well
It sounds like you're having a lot of fun. That's great and really important. Make sure you never lose that. If you're winning races and having fun, sponsors will be knocking on your door and everyone will want you riding their gear. That includes Easton.
One other thing, if you're ever at an event and you see an Easton tent, come by and say hello. Sometimes that's the best way to get in with a potential sponsor. A "hello" and a high-five goes a long way.
Good luck out there.
Once again thank you sooooo much man you guys are awsome!!!
Sincerely
Sean Kelly
Best of luck and continued success to all of you.
JB
With that said, we don't have any plans for red bars/stems in the immediate future. Obviously bright colors are getting more and more popular. What colors (aside from red) do you think we should do?
Alternatively, can you make a stem that's both 35mm long and 35mm in clamping diameter?
Do you mean your bars or all of them out there?
Is there any development going on in the "Skunkworks" related to other high strength/low weight materials, such as Titanium, Aermet, etc?
Just curious, as although they expensive and are a bear to work with, the fatigue life is incredible.
Cheers,Mark
If you have any trouble with any of our stuff you can always send it back. We have a 5-year warranty on all of our components.
I love the 35mm standard, are there any patents on your 35 Stuff, I would like to produce a longer stem, in small production and i dont want any problems
Best whishes from Bavaria
Thanks
forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/cheap-chinese-carbon-rims-673410-101.html
www.light-bicycle.com/wider-mtb-26er-carbon-bike-rim-26-inch-rims.html
When searching for spare spokes last summer (after snapping an array of spokes on both front and back wheels) there was a distinct shortage and an attitude of 'send the wheels back to Easton'. Spokes were like rocking-horse poo.
Is Easton going to do anything to address the issues of wheel strength and spoke supply? I've had to bin my wheelset because of lack of spares in favor of a Hope/Mavic combination which is a shame.
Thanks.
The good news is that we use standard, straight-pull spokes that should be easy to find and replace as needed. A lot of good bike shops have spoke cutting/threading tools, so they can cut a spoke to length for you if they don't have the right one in stock.
If you have a big race weekend planned or a week of shredding in the Alpes or something, we would recommend that you bring a couple of extra spoke nipples with you. The dual-threaded nipples are the only proprietary Easton parts. Everything else should be easy to source on the go.
As for the nipples - I was finding that the spokes were snapping off in the nipples rendering them useless. Is this a tension issue with the wheel build? Where can I buy nipples from? They seem to be quite hard to locate too?
Our distributor in France is Shimano. You should contact them to get a hold of some spoke nipples. If you don't get a response from them, you can contact us directly for spoke nipples. But we encourage you to go through our distributor (or have your favorite local bike shop contact our distributor).
One of the teams Easton sponsored teams kindly gave me some spokes (with nipples) but they were too short to work with the back wheel - they only worked on the fronts. They would work with the rears but there was a very small amount of thread in the nipple and it made little difference whether the nipple was barely or fully screwed into the rim.
I'm just a little confused how this could happen if they all use the same lengths? I measured them and there were shorter and longer ones.
I would just like to reiterate my thanks for your responses to these questions, and I'm not attacking your products, just genuinely confused.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAdO33oLvn0&list=PLEAFFC31B14945B62
Generally, the fatigue life of carbon is more than 10x better than aluminum.You just need to pay attention during installation (use a torque wrench and follow torque specs) and make sure to inspect carbon parts after every crash. If you see a deep gouge it's probably time to replace it. If you're unsure whether it's a cosmetic scratch or something more serious, you can have your local bike shop inspect the parts or send them back to us for inspection.
The reason that we didn't give you that upgrade kit when we had your wheel here for service was because we simply didn't have them before the announcement was made last Tuesday.
Thanks for opening up this questions forum!
Currently I have a set of 24 spoke wheels that I like cause they are light but I'm looking at getting something stronger for light downhill use. Which wheelset would you suggest for a rider 185 lbs for downhill with no major drops or jumps?
Last thing. What is the pawl and engagement set up for your current hubs?
Thank you very much for your time. I absolutely love my Havoc stem and bar!!
As for your DH wheels, seems like our Havoc UST wheels would be perfect for you. You can read all about them on our website:http://www.eastoncycling.com/en-us/dirt/wheels/gravity. To answer your question about the pawls: There are three pawls and 12-degrees of engagement.
I have been intrigued by your Carbon wheels since they first came out. But after reading some reports and seeing that they do crack how do you plan to fix this problem? I can buy $150 Chinese Carbon rims with almost the same results. Do you offer warranty or replacements? They are so expensive and seem to have a short life span. Anything you plan on doing?
Thanks
Always tighten everything to the manufacturer’s specs (probably around 3 Nm).
Thanks!
are carbon stems going to be coming out soon, or is the vibration dampening not significant enough to justify the difficulty of manufacturing?
sorry if im asking about RD stuff- im and Engineering student, and this stuff fascinates me.
EC90 SL stems are approved for use on XC bikes.
www.eastoncycling.com/en-us/dirt/components/stems/xc/ec90-sl
I have a set of Easton wheels that are compatible with your newly released M1 hub upgrade (major props for the way you've gone about that BTW). How can I go about getting my hands on one and will this remove play from my freehub body and help prevent these bearings from wearing again?
I have tried emailling the UK distributor however I have not received a response (I emailled them last week) and unfortunately I don't have a local shop that I can rely on.
Cheers.
If all else fails, and you can't get your hands on an Upgrade Kit, shoot us an email at Wheelinfo@eastonbellsports.com and we'll sort it out..
I emailed you last Sunday and I am disappointed that I have not yet received a reply from either yourselves or the UK distributor. I'm sorry to be posting this on a public forum but it looks like this is the only place I'm likely to get a reply. I appreciate that you guys must be fairly busy with this but please can we sort something out?
Cheers.
While the wheels are absolutely covered under warranty this is still not ideal.
This is why we recently announced a free upgrade for all existing M1-121 hubs, this upgrade will absolutely extend the life of your bearings.
www.pinkbike.com/news/Easton-Cycling-Hub-Upgrade-Kit.html
P.S they are awesome whilst working! Never had to true once and I have never had that with another wheel!!!
there is a reason these wheels are all being sold at big discounts by CRC, etc.
By the way, I think this is an absolutely brilliant move from you guys, keep it up!
Maybe they'll do an AMA on whatever is the the hockey equivalent of Pinkbike.
Does hockey have a 'pinkbike'?
P.s love the 35 carbon bar.
The 150 hub is a very different system from the narrower 12x142/135 hubs (such as those found on the Haven wheels) and is not subject to the same type of bearing wear as it has no bearing preload adjustment.
We have definitely been addressing bearing wear with the in line changes we've made. But the real solution is the bearing spacer which has been tested for over a year. Bearings will still wear out eventually but it will take much, much longer now.
The hub reputation is really fairly recent, I believe there are a couple of factors at work here; Until recently all of our high end hubs had bearing preload adjustment. Which, like any other adjustment on a bike if it's ridden while maladjusted can do all sorts of terrible things. The other side is that the competitor hubs which are generally revered for their bearing durability are simply less common.
simple answer to your question
Hope Pro II Evo hubs, hand built with Sapim or DT Swiss double-butted spokes and brass nipples, onto your rim of choice (I'd recommend the Mavic EX series for DH abuse)
Hope design and manufacture their hubs in the UK to suit the filth-bucket that is our climate...simple
wheel performance is so much more than just a lower weight
the lighter, weaker, more flexible wheel sets are not efficient at transferring rider power to the terrain
and to keep the strength and rigidity high and weight low = the cost becomes insane and require proprietary parts like specialist spokes, nipples, rims and hubs, which are hard / time consuming to source as replacements and stupidly expensive
often the "factory wheelsets" require specialist skill to repair, which means sending them away to a service centre at high cost
I'd always prefer a quality set of handbuilt wheels using regular spokes and nipples, and Mavic / Stan's / Sun rims which can be easily sourced
King, Hope, etc. for hub as these hubs have had years of development to iron out issues, the durability / quality is much higher than the hubs used on the factory wheel, and all spares are easily available
I'm curious because I believe that great products are more about the people directly responsible for such individual products, creating the designs and managing all the decisions of how it's made from design, production, sales, and support, rather than the company's name and reputation (the rep attracts great staff, I admit). I recall your ABC tech came from a carbon expert with military experimental equipment research experience.
How do you come up with baseline forces to design parts around?
That was the major struggle for us, without have the ability to test previous products or competitors for a design criteria.
Is there somewhere I would be able to get a hold of these standards for future use?
What most people don't know is way back in the day there was an Easton owned bike brand. Anyone know the name?
And another question: i'm thinking about trying your 35mm bar/stem standart. Problem are colors - none of yours is what i'm looking after. Are you planning on releasing other colors (for example red)? If not, is it possible for me to order you a custom color and how much more would it cost?
As for the colors, as far as i know, anodization is achieved by some chemicals (acid or something like that). Do you need different chemicals for different colors, or what?
First of all, thank you for answering our questions! Great initiative!
first question: Do think the bike market will aim to bigger components in general like your new bars&stem or will new materials be able to handle bigger impact with the same measures?
second question: i would like to know what programs you use to design and test your components.
Thank you!
We have a ton of testing fixtures here in house. Our attention to testing and engineering is what sets us apart from a lot of our competitors. You can see some of the tests here on the website: www.eastoncycling.com/en-us/dirt/technology/#components
Thanks a ton for all of your questions and comments! We had a lot of run with you all today. I'd say we should do this again soon, but hopefully you don't have any more questions left.
It was great talking to you all and it's great to see that our customers love riding--and talking about--bike parts as much as we do.
It's time for us to get out of the office. It's still daylight here (not for long) and we're itching to get outside. So that's all for now.
If you wake up in the middle night and realize that you forgot to ask your big question, don't fret, you can hit us up here on PB anytime or on facebook.com/eastoncycling.
Happy trails amigos,
Easton Cycling
Cheers!
Have fun in Australia!
We have a two-year warranty on wheels. That's against manufacturer's defects, not against abusive riding. We also have a crash replacement program and have very reasonable pricing on wheel service and rebuilds (with quick turnaround).
Thx for your time
Q2: How much does cutting down carbon 800mm/35mm bars reduce/change the vibration absorbtion? I am thinking there must be some type of tuning/resonant frequency effect?
Plus, since all "plastics" are time dependent, how would the torque impact on handlebars lifetime of being safe.
Thank you for your time and answer.
I was hoping Easton could assist me with some small details to discuss in my report. If possible details about the testing process for wheels, handlebars and/ or stems would benefit me greatly. I currently use Easton handlebars and stem on my Cube Ltd I think they are EA70 handlebars, if you could provide details of these under testing that would be easier for me to discuss knowing how they ride. These would be great but any details would be fantastic.
Thank you for taking the time to read this,
Will Lawton
I run the tubeless ready Schwalbe tires with Stan's. I was thinking of bring a 2 oz sealant and dumping it in and try and get a seal. Does Easton make a tool I could carry with me that would work to break the bead? So I can just carry a tube to use in the event of a flat.
Is my wheelset maybe an older modell and not from 2012?
Thanks, Nic
The cassette body hub needs replacing (pawls are worn) and I can't find out which easton replacement I need:
www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=42632
www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=50422
www.bike-components.de/products/info/p28072_R4SL-Freilauf-.html
www.bike-components.de/products/info/p25544_R4-Freilauf-.html
www.bike-components.de/products/info/p24374_C2---V2---R3-Freilauf-.html?xtcr=21&xtmcl
Cassette body is compatible with the products of other manufacturers?
Please help me.
Thank you.
P.S. I wrote wheelinfo@eastonbellsports.com, me did not answer.
I wrote www.cuberussia.ru, me did not answer.
Only hope for you.
P.S. 2. I write with the help of an interpreter. I'm sorry if there are errors.
I have not seen this before and question the if the bars are safe to ride? The Easton website directed me to their distributor in Australia, Apollo bicycles, they do not have an email address. Any advice help, please and thank you.
I've heard a lot of people say wider is better because of the leverage.
www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=1;menu=1000,2,140,17;product=33690
The Havoc bar and stem should work great. Your 29" wheels will benefeit from a wider stiffer bar.
Enjoy!
I never look back again!!!
I Run HAVOC Carbon now and just one word to describe it : PERFECT
Thanks Easton.
The best time to reach out about sponsorship is in the fall. By early spring we're pretty much tapped out.
or does Easton have any intention to venture into other areas of bicycle equipment such as the chainset?
I always think it would be interesting to see the development road map within R&D of bicycle component manufacturers... if only eh!
If I buy them, do they come with the upgraded bearings in them?
What are the warranty details with those wheels?
The other version, the 135/142mm wheel, is now shipping with the upgraded hub internals. If you had one of those wheels that was not already upgraded, you could retrofit the wheel quite easily.
Warranty on that wheel is two-years against manufacturer's defects.
i destroy wheels all the time, not sure it is because i am a heavy rider or a bad one.
(i weight about 110kg in my riding gear)
they seem impossible to find and are very pricey when I do
Do you have any plans to produce other mtb components alongside your existing products, such as cranks, chainrings etc?
Thanks, Kieran
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEBxa_1dOJI&feature=share&list=UU9Pho4BBQx_-fMgz_0FBQVQ
i think you have nice colour awready but im a red,black n purple fan me
What type of marketing have you found most effective?
Thanks guys!
2. When you going to make s dropped post?
All joking aside, carbon wheels are absolutely amazing. Just be careful, after one ride you really won't want to go back to alloy.
So far I've retensioned the rear spokes once. That's it. In fact, I'm still riding the original rear hub (one of those M1-120 hubs that people complain about). I did burn through some bearings before giving it the "locktite trick". The wheels are still straight and true. By the way, that Nomad C isn't set up like a long travel XC bike. It currently has a 36 Van fork/DHX coil rear, chainguide, 2.5 tires and a Havoc 35 bar/stem.
Also, why didn't you do a 780mm of your 31.8 havoc bar and a carbon version of havoc seatpost?
As a company we recycle our aluminum chips and use 3D forging to minimize wasted material.
All types of "recreation" have their impacts on the environment. But mountain biking and cycling in general are positive contributors to the environment when you look at the bigger picture (for example, if not for mountain biking, some folks would never learn to appreciate the outdoors).
1. Why did you use a non-standard canti post for your Easton ec90x fork circa 2008?
2. Can I please get a pair to replace the ones on my fork?
Thanks!
Yes, you can still get those canti posts from us. Just send us an email at WheelInfo@Eastonbellsports.com or give us a shout at 877-835-6629
when you are assembling a carbon wheel, do you change de arrangement of the carbon fibre, or do you keep one direction?
thanks
since you have carbon products, i must have a "resistance to fatigue (MPa) vs number of stress cycles (N)" graphic. Any chance you could send it to me?
thanks
And also, will there be charity editions of your products?
Pink=breast cancer, Puzzle pieces= autism........
Thanks
Cheers
dave
TL
Personally, we like the colorful versions more around here and this is exactly why we make Haven alloy bars in two colors. Here's a link to the the non-black version for 2013: www.eastoncycling.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/785x727/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/h/a/haven_bar_alloy_sil.jpg
It's slightly unrelated but here's a link to some general carbon clamping instructions:
www.eastoncycling.com/bike/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/bar_ends-EN.pdf
In spite of all this we have not yet developed a repeatable version of the 'drop-a-bike-off-a-building-onto-the-handlebars' test. In the real world carbon bars tend to break when the controls are over-tightened.
Maybe some videos of the Havoc 35 testing will help. www.eastoncycling.com/en-us/dirt/havoc35
Either way I recommend inspecting the bar carefully after each time you do this.
Or maybe landing tires-first?
The fact that both of these wheelsets are UST certified and completely airtight right out of the box is also a big selling point. But even if you have no interest in ever going tubeless, these wheels are stronger than the competition and also very competitive in weight.
Just to be clear that's the size of the quill for a 1" threaded steerer, or more likely the clamp section on steel bmx handlebars.