[How To] Nukeproof generator rear hub maintenance and bearing replacement

Aug 26, 2011
by Carlos Correia  
blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 1.Remove the wheel from the bike. Take out the QR axle if you have the 135x9QR version. Remove the disk and the cassette from the hub and place apart.


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 2.Unscrew the axle ends by hand or use a clamp. After removing one axle end, you can use a hex-tool inside the axle to hold it while unscrewing the opposite end.


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 3.Slide the free-hub body out of the hub.


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 4.Remove the dust rubber seals from both sides.


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 5.Use a toothpick or a screwdriver to gently slide out the springs and the pawls.


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 6.From the drive side, use a piece of wood to cover the axle and hit it with a hammer until it slides out to the other side.



blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 7.From the non-drive side, use a plastic or rubber screwdriver grip to cover the bearings and hit them until they slide out.


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 8.Now you have the hub completely disassembled. Clean the hub body, springs, pawls, axle, seals, bearing spacer - washer. You can also replace the springs and pawls for new ones if you need or want to.


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 9.Lube the hub body and the bearings to help them slide in. Place two new bearings in drive side, cover with one old bearing and press them with a hammer. To press the bearings you can use the old ones, a tube or a socket that perfectly sits in the outer bearing ring, like this 20mm socket in the photo.


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 10.Lube the axle and slide it from the non-drive side. You can place the non-drive side bearing just to help centering and holding the axle.

blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 11.Press the non-drive side bearing and install the rubber seal with grease.


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 12.On the drive side, put some thin/slick grease, not too much, in the springs and install them. Do the same to the pawls. (I use Rock&Roll super slick grease in this step, the same grease I use for bushings/seals in forks and shocks)


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 13.Grease the rubber seal and install it. Install the washer to the a as it should be between the main body bearing and the free-hub. Grease the bearing side in the free hub body and put few drops of oil in the springs, pawls and engagement points. Clean any excess of grease or oil, sprigs and pawls should work and sound free.


blog use Nukeproof generator rear 135mmQr maintnence
Step 14.Slide in the free-hub body. At this point, rotate the free hub and check if sprigs and pawls sound clear and free. Screw the axle ends by hand or you can just give it a very little snug with a clamp.

Reinstall the cassette, disk brake…check if everything is ok and test it on the bike.
Check the axle ends and so in the first rides.



I made this how just to help some people out there and because, after two and half years with it, I really like the specifications, construction and durability of this hub. I´m not a racer, pro-rider, nor even a bike seller or mechanic, so, the liability of this tutorial is up to you.


If you think something is wrong or could be improved, write it down.
Thanks for reading.



12 Comments

  • 6 0
 Eheh, mais um grande trabalho do Bro Correia Smile


A ver se vai pa home page Salute
  • 1 0
 Mesmo!
  • 2 0
 Isto é que é trabalho comunitário! Smile
E assim se desmonta e monta um cubo só com a mão esquerda! Razz
  • 2 0
 Very helpful, But with the 12mm instead of the QR version there is no hex cut-out inside the axle... So at this stage..

www.pinkbike.com/photo/7003831

I would assume just clamping the other end with some molegrips or something to remove the bearing cover would work just as well ?
  • 2 0
 Thanks for your comment.
Never saw a 12mm version. If you say so, you better use a clamp/vise or molegrips, like you say, would be perfect. Just be sure to use a old rubber tube or something to protect the bearing cover from the molegrip jaws.
  • 1 0
 HI!

Rear hubs are always a bear for me. I HAVE THE 135MM QR TYPE.

I need some details: How do I get the NON DRIVE side access? I cannot push/punch the bearings out to replace them.
I've tried Channel locks; they scar up the material.

Thank you
  • 1 0
 Great! Thanks
got one issue, I can not get my axle nut on the drive side on. Just wont bite to the axle. Other side (brake side) is tight and looks correct.
  • 1 0
 Sweet Post, I have these hubs and cant fault them, glad to know I can service the free hub pawls and springs myself.. Top Job
  • 1 0
 Is it really Super Slick? Super Slick is black, is not it. This looks like Red Devil grease.
  • 1 0
 Hi man.
Super slick is black sure, and I use it on springs and pawls, because it's thin. You can just use oil...
For bearings and seals (and that kind of please-water-go-away stuff) I use general grease - in the pictures, a red general use Weldlite grease.

Thanks.
  • 1 0
 This is great, really helpful!
  • 1 0
 I managed to get the axle twisted...

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