Mountain bikers may not realize how many times we double or triple shift during the course of a ride because the terrain changes at a faster rate than our bicycle's gearing can handle with a single shift. Become conscious of your shifting and you may be surprised that almost every gear change is a double click. It is a phenomenon we have largely learned to live with, but it begs the questions: "Do we need such closely spaced gearing? And, do we really need 20, 30 or 33 gear ratios to get the job done?" Spend a month on a single speed and it seems absurd that the basic mountain bike transmission is so redundant.
SRAM's one-by-eleven drivetrain is a game changer, but will its wider gear spacing and slightly more limited range translate to the masses?
Old-School GearingThere is a consensus among old-school cyclists that a large number of closely-spaced gear ratios is the best possible solution for efficient power delivery. It seems that it is human nature for us to settle into a precise cadence and watt output, which leads us to believe that, if our bikes had just the right gear ratios, we could pedal happily onward with no regard to the gradient of the trail or the direction of the wind. In fact, the magic delta
(rate of change) between gear shifts of a mountain bike cassette has been established at 13 percent.
Reportedly, Shimano has done extensive testing and has found that riders start to complain that the spacing between gears feels excessive as the cassette reaches a delta of 15 percent. Bang out the numbers on a calculator and Shimano's 11 x 36, ten-speed cassettes jump about 13-percent between shifts - except for the hop from the 13 to the 11-tooth cogs, which is closer to 15 percent. Don't blame Shimano for that big jump, however, because sprocket teeth are exactly one half inch apart, so it is not possible to design a cassette with perfectly spaced jumps between every gear option.
SRAM's eleven-cog 10-by-42-tooth XX1 cassette (left) and Shimano's ten-speed 11-by-36-tooth cassette (right)
Just in Case You Wanted to KnowSRAM eleven speed: 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36, 42
SRAM ten speed: 11, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36
Shimano ten speed: 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36
GT agrees with Shimano. Its key 2014 trailbikes feature two or three-chainring cranks, powering Shimano 11-by-36 cassettes.
Multiple ChainringsThe notion was largely decided, however, by road racers, who must match the the pace of their competitors' at all costs, or risk losing the draft and being relegated to distant back markers in a handful of seconds. The same may be said for cross-country racers, who must match subtle attacks on the climbing sections while maintaining their optimum cadence. The reason geared bikes have two or three chainrings is to allow a racer to pedal comfortably across the widest possible speed range. Because speeds of the average trail rider vary from a walking pace to 30 miles per hour (6.4 to 48 Kph), the multiple chairing option seems logical - simply choose the chaniring that best matches the situation and then flick the right-hand lever to fine tune the cassette cogs to match one's personal power output. Shimano strongly supports the multiple-chainring drivetrain for exactly those reasons.
Specialized began experimenting with six-speed cassettes for DH and eventually
settled upon a seven-cog system. The DH Option
Racing often puts sharply focused demands upon all components. Downhillers adopted a close-ratio road cassette long ago to use a smaller, less-exposed rear derailleur and because the speed ranges of the pedaling sections on a typical DH course are more condensed and thus require narrower gearing. The close-ratio aspect of the road cassette, however is not optimal, and we are seeing more teams using custom, wider-ratio cassettes with as few as six cogs, presumably, to eliminate multiple shifting and to save time. Specialized was one of the pioneers. They began with a six-cog cassette based upon a Shimano Capreo system and it morphed into a seven-cog option for the Demo 8.
One-by for the TrailFor the average mountain bike rider, it seems wrong to have to pop off twenty or thirty shifts when ten would be fine. SRAM's XX1 seems to address the dedicated trail rider with a single chainring and only eleven, more widely spaced gear ratios. XX1 gear-shifts run closer to 15 percent
(more or less), which soundly trounces the 13-percent rule. The beauty of SRAM's wider gear spacing is that in most trail riding situations, one click of the right-hand lever is all it takes to find the right gear. SRAM did not pioneer the wide-range one-by drivetrain. SRAM's contribution was the smaller, ten-tooth cog on the high end and the addition of an eleventh, 42-tooth low gear - an innovation that gave the one-by drivetrain a range that was darn close to conventional, multi-chainring transmissions. The fact that eleven options could improve on thirty aptly challenges the old-school theory
SRAM's one-by-eleven, however, does not completely solve the double and triple shifting issue. There are situations, like being faced with a steep climb around a blind corner, where a one-by transmission must be shifted five times to obtain a low enough gear to get over the top. In my experience, though, having fewer, more widely spaced gearing options, better matches the demands that the average trail puts on the legs. The more technical the terrain, the better the SRAM XX1 option seems to perform. Take it out on a paved highway and, like an off-road motorcycle, the XX1 bike reaches its top speed prematurely - and when pushing the wind or riding in a group, the wider-spaced shifts can feel awkward. In effect, SRAM's XX1 could be defined as the first dedicated trailbike drivetrain to come from a major player - and intended or not, a bike equipped with an XX1 drivetrain is a dedicated trailbike. If all you do is ride dirt, that can be a wonderful thing.
What is Optimum?Outside of single-speed and freestyle riders, who can get along fine with one, how many gears are enough? Do trail riders need more options than a one-by-eleven? Can DH riders get along with six speeds? Is a three-by-eleven, 33-speed drivetrain in your future? How many gear options are optimal for dedicated mountain bike riders? You've heard our take, now we'd like to know what you think.
(Should this be called Enduro specific gearing?!)
DH bike - 38T front and as small as I can get, 6 gears about back (but currently running 10, because that's what's available)
Forget the trend of everything being "enduro specific" all I want is proper downhill specific...you know like every other component on my downhill bike
2-3 rear, 38 chain ring for dh. Would love to have a beefy sram automatix.
2 small, 1 intermediate, 1 large for rear, 2 chainrings front for chainalignment and uphill for road, commuting, xc. But I could do with just a single chain ring.
Single speed for park bike.
And @Waki love your comments keep up you speak a lot of sense
I agree with @sup3rc0w on those setups.
You cannot generalize your gear preferences. It jump/ street/ bmx it would look pretty funny to have a 3x11 set up but for a carbon 29er hardtail, that is quite practical.
For dh 1x whatever you want, for djstreet/ bmx single speed, for enduro 1x/ 2x 10/11 etc.
Get ma jist?
www.backcountry.com/bike-lube-degreaser?nf=1&p=brand%3ADumonde%5C+Tech
We have enough options.
..
Shamefully, i find myself more drawn to the 1x systems because it would free up more space for me to have other levers on my handlebar like dropper remotes or suspension lockout remotes. Its not just that they would all look awful up there, its that you end up with too many things to do at the same time; when you come to a climb you need to shift, extend you seatpost and lock out your suspension, its just too much. That's why i want a 1x so i can take shifting off that list of jobs my left thumb has to do.
PS there is a joke in there somewhere about my left thumb, jump on it PBers.
DH bike is a 34t up front with my own customized 7 speed (11-17)et up on the back. I used my 10sp SRAM set up and it works bang tidy. There is no need for any more gears than that on a DH bike.
WRT running fewer sprockets on a normal cassette body... what's the point? If you don;t need them, don't use them. Taking them off is not going to do anything but give you fewer gears. They key is to use the space you have created, widen the hub flanges and take the dish off the wheel. To me, there is no point having a 10mm gap between the biggest sprocket and the inside of the cassette body. It's a waste of space.
Go into your toolbox and pull out 2 x 7sp spacers(if you haven't got this, go down to your local bike shop). Remove your 10sp cassette from the hub, remove the first 3 gears (largest numbers of teeth), place the 2x 7sp spacers on the hub and replace the remaining 7 cogs from the cassette. You still use the normal spacers between each cog and this will fit nice and snug when retightening.
Boush, you now have a 7sp. Undo your cable tension and physically place your rear mech on the largest cog, really the cable, fettle and your done.
A ten minute job that cost you less than a ÂŁ5 / $ 10 note to perform. You've not bought the latest Ti replacement hub unit costing ÂŁ200/$400 from the gimmick store. If people want a pictorial on this, let me know and I'll put one up.
Better to just drop $200 on a general lee. It is a lot of money, and if you can't afford it, like me, then you just get to live with what sramano sells you.
I started this idea with 3 chains 2 years ago and it worked, then I did 5 last year. This time I'm doing 8. The bonus is you always have a clean chain for each ride.
1X8 for DH
and 1x1 on the pumptrack/DJ bike.
The same issue comes up often when talking of riding HT or BMX. RC said once that, it's like teaching someone to run by giving him cripples. Well the matter of a fact is that original BMXers do wonders on DH bike after less than a month of riding, and people who started on fully or even worse a DH bike can't ride BMX at all. They buy BMX because they think it will improve their technique, then after years of failed attempts they sell it. It always works from the bottom up, but never the other way around.
what happened to the standard 9 speed MTB cassette like on DH/FR bikes and other various MTB's.
I thought this was the standard... like all the components i used to look at where all for 9 speed. 'Shimano mega 9' and all that.. (Saint,XTR,XT,Deore...etc) and about just over 1 year ago i stopped mountain biking to focus on work for a bit ..then i went and bought a new DH bike recently, and i noticed it was 10 speed, i looked at all the other 2013/14 bikes and they are all 10 speed.. did i miss some sort of mtb revolution here? when did this happen? if anything i thought there would be less gears for DH bikes in the future.. ?
Also I think that present MTB drivetrain is pointless because of exposure to the elements. I can't think of any drivetrain in off road application which is as unprotected as bike drivetrain.
1) Make the housing a universal standard (just like rear der mounts are universal standard)
2) let us mix and match the number of gears ((6 to i don't know, how ever many they can fit 18 like pinion does) and their ratios
Why?
1) gives everyone that range and intervals they want
2) has less sprung weight than a tradition system
3) less exposure to the elements as EnduroriderPL points out.
Trouble is getting major frame manufacturers to get on the same page as the gearbox makers.
I've tested old Nexus on my hardtail endurorider.pl/2008/12/nexus-sg-7r45 and it worked great! Yes, U have to get used to different weight distribution but this one was beaten to death, only 5 gears out of 7 were working, but still it was a revelation. First of all You can change gear without pedaling and this is the thing that I want on my mountain bike. Secondly everything is sealed quite good even in this very old model. And last but not least I was managed to do a service (dismantling) of hub myself so there is no need to be afraid of geared hubs.
I always wanted to have Rohloff but it is GODDMAMMM expensive :/
@freestyIAM As I know Shimano they have all the patents for trigger shifters and if even one was left on the maket SRAM got it
Popular, cheap gearbox near BB is the thing I'm waiting for a long long time.
You can't use a twister shifter on a Rohloff because there is not enough cable pull with each 'click'. I forget how much a Rohloff needs, but it is many times more than triggers.
Interesting fact: when the Rohloff was introduced is was the same weight as the XTR of the day. Only XTR keeps getting lighter, and Rohloff is the same weight because ze Germans want to keep with their reliable niche product.
As much as I love the concept of Rohloff, the unsprung mass is a major problem. I can feel the difference.
I think most people would take the 8% loss of efficiency if it was marketed right. Fashion dictates what most people buy. Just look at it from the other angle. Almost maintenance free, straight chain, no mech to smash, cleaner looks, stronger wheels, lower unsprung weight.
www.rohloff.de/en/technology/efficiency
bent hanger
bent mech
premature cable stretch
premature chain and sprocket wear
dirt, sand etc will effect a mech more
dirty, bent or poorly set up chain guide or guide bearings
thick thin tooth chain ring drag
shocking chain line
Then there's the being able to shift any time with a gearbox. I shift in the air, rock gardens, corners, anywhere on my Zerode, and I'm in that gear when I want to pedal, no grinding it through barbarically, or having to wait for even ground to pedal it through without rock strikes. No suprise hidden climb bothers me.
I have both a Pinion/Nicolai coming with 600%+ range and an Effigear/Cavalerie with choice of 7, 8 or 9 speed with 450% range.
In the mean time, my Trance works fine with an 8 speed Alfine, unsprung weight is not a noticable issue on such a short travel bike, but the Nicolai and Cavalerie will address it anyway. I have a Nuvinci and Sturmey Archer on my other bikes, and loved the Rohloff in my Lahar, but who needs 14 gears for DH.
Grip shift is pretty good for all but DH. You can dump several gears in one maneuver. Effigear offer a shifter option, but I'll stick with the grip shift for a Enduro/All MTN/WTF bike. I'd try a grip shifter on my Zerode(I have one ready)but it's not big enough deal to do. I'll try it if I break the Sram modified Zerode trigger.
6 or 7 speed cogs do exist for dh but they still use that weak 10 speed chain ! being able to use a 9 speed or even 8 speed chain with 6-7 gears would be great (stronger chain) !
www.pinkbike.com/photo/8673851
Apology accepted.
@ Waki. It's not that the chain is too weak, but that it is more expensive. It also wears out quicker because it is narrower, and it also requires narrower sprockets which also wear out quicker.
Most people agree that 5-8 gears would be ideal for DH, and using a wider chain would allow it to last longer. I don't know. As I said, I'd be happy to stick with 10 speed everything for the sake of cross compatibility, but just have a wider hub, shorter cassette body and fewer cogs.
Narrower diameter chains compatible with the increasing number of cassette gears are progressively weaker and wear out faster. I have ridden relentlessly on drivetrains from 6,7,8,9,10 and 11 speed chains. The "spacer between plates"is the bushing and the smaller it is the weaker it is, by definition. Being inherently weaker results from reduced bushing contact area resulting in faster bushing wear that produces torsional flex of the chain, like when you cross-chain gears. The increased sideways slop stresses the pin and causes failure of the plates. Teeth have narrowed along with chains also decreasing durability. What started out as 7.8mm is now 5.5mm resulting in a 30% reduction in the durability of mountain bike drivetrains. This is not progress. The future is unquestionably in belt driven CVT but until then the industry has us by the balls.
I was simply saying the carbon spoke protector would be a good addition for the component makers who want to sell their products. I didn't say it was strictly necessary.
I suggest instead of being rude to other posters, you take the time to learn to read and spell properly. Your English is pretty poor. Put your time to more constructive use in future buddy!
Once again. Carbon spoke protector!?! Go home
Apollogy accepted.
yes
I really appreciate your kind words! You have renewed my faith in humanity. ...
Did you do any riding this weekend?
Legos are sweet were making rescue bots over here. but using the big duplo legos the little ones are baned from my house (stepped on one too many)
I also feel these narrow/wide front chainrings will only work for a year until they wear and then will need replacing, I'd rather stick to an MRP/E-13 chainguide that runs silently and protects your chainring too. Too many mtb components are being designed to only be good for a year nowadays, as companies already plan to release the newer, better version straight after you buy.
Triple ring up front means:
1. long, steep, sustained climbs can be ridden at a social pace;
2. middle ring for undulating trail riding;
3. big ring for hammering down fire roads, gravel roads, or getting home on the pavement.
Specialized drivetrains are for people who specialize. One bike to do it all. Forget the quiver. Simplify and ride your bike everywhere.
Denisson should've included some of this debate in his recent movie "How to be a mountainbiker". "Pick a drive train and be a dick about it."
I don't really care what drive train I ride as long as I have the gears I need to do what I want. Triple covers the gamut for me. And the outer ring is the perfect bash ring.
Just because a couple of blokes at Pinkbike suck at shifting or they know blokes that suck at shifting, we need to rethink ring / cassette options?
Choice, preference, and options! Go learn what works for you. :-)
1x is nice so I'm not bitching out all the time and riding slow, but if you're towing a trailer full of tools, or using your bike for transportation, a granny ring is the only option. 2x9 is still making my day.
Honestly I kinda wish I could just run a friction shifter up front and do it all by feel/sight. I have friction up front on my road/touring bike and I love it. I don't really feel like indexing adds much up front.
32 front and 34 to 11 on the rear - I can still go up the steepest hills on our local loop in 1st gear so I thought, I don't need my granny ring anymore and a I only use the big ring on the road.
I find it really nice getting rid of the front mech the extra cable and shifter =)
For everything else, 1x10 or 1x11 does the trick.
And regarding DH…why not just run 1x9 (like we all have been for years) or if you can find an older shimano cassette 1x8…so what if there are 2-3 cogs that you never use, these cogs guarantee you'll never loose your chain.
I like the change. Its less of a worry when riding owt mad. Its much snappier shifting with the short cage. Although there is no granny ring you get used to when to get some momentum up to push steeper sections. I'm sure I will come across a place where I have to push because of gradient and grip at some point soon, and I'm sure I will feel mildly annoyed by it, but its worth it. Plus I tend to stand a lot on climbs anyway.
Also kind of realised how unnecessary 10sp is on the back. Agree with the article about the pointlessness of shifting two gears all the time which I don't seem to do so much now I don't have the range. (always trying to save an extra gear for emergencies)
Think I might build a single speed hardtail from shed parts for christmas!
What you all buy into here in simply consumerism. Outside of downhill specific riding where you're an avid racer; why is there a need to segregate all of the riding styles? Maybe for companies to make more money out of pushing specific riding group apparel an equipment at you?! I see it on here regularly. Example: If you don't have a particular crankset your downhill bike it's considered shit (yea i read everyone's comments on threads). It obviously has good parts, just not what the parts the masses considered "golden" and exclusive.....TOTALLY absurd!!!
Fitting in with the crowd and consumerism traps a lot of you out there. Ride what you have, actually enjoy riding and most of all get FIT! Riding wasn't meant to be a walk in a park
Yeah, I was missing my granny this summer when I came around a trail and my 38t front/36t rear was more than my legs could power to get up the climb.
2x10 next summer!
And I want a shifter like Saint, which can move from highest gear to the lowest with one finger flick.
Go wild and run it on a single shift-pod that is dual function. Short trigger for in application, long trigger for between application.
Provisional filed...
Single ring might be ok for a trail bike that only sees dirt, but i often ride the pavement to get to the trail from home or work, then climb up some technical singletrack before bombing baxk down. I'll keep my 24/34/bash on my trail bike.
Hell, even my dh bike has a double 24/36/bash. I love riding by riders pushing up the little incline where trails converge halfway down the mountain at Winterpark, and i have yet to lose a chain with my bash/two step roller setup.
and that SHIMANO ten speed cassette are 11,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32,36
So why is my ten speed SRAM cassette 11,13,15,17,19,22,25,28,32,36 ? Is mine Alien lol because it's different then both of them !
You wanna talk "absurd" PB? Even more absurd is the fact that derailleurs are still used to get the multi-ratio job done on "off-road" bikes!!!! On par with that absurdity is the fact that so many people not only think they need multiple gears, but multiple f*cking bikes!!!! ROFLMAO WTFF?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Still, I'm a big fan of companies like Rohloff & Pinion. A set of 5 or so gears inside or next to the BB, would be a solid step in the right direction. Put your suspension pivot around it & do away with that gimmicky bogus Horst-Link bullshit & trendy VPP horsekife & you'd have one clean, lean, mean & durable package that wouldn't need constant maintenance & replacement. Bad for business maybe, but better for all else in the long run.
in the alps this year I broke the derailleur hanger on some rocky singletrack on a mates lapierre. I finished the ride single speed and the only time I wished I had more gears was on the road section at the end going into a head wind. horses for courses tho right? the more gears you have the more you're likely to use and if you use them then you probably need them.
rpjj.ca/bikes/rocky/crank.jpg
Sales push the bike industry more than application but there are sound options for every rider, and I dont think it takes long to find the right setup in fact go do a typical ride, if you dont use a ring on the front maybe its time to take it off, or maybe (like me) its time to lay of the pints.
For DH I don't mind having a 9 speed setup - the extra gears are useful when you're not on the down or making your way across the top of the hill to the start of a run/heading back to the chalet after a days riding. The thing that upsets my nunchucks is the fact I have to go to 10speed if I want a clutched rear derailleur. A clutch rear derailleur makes sense for DH more than any other type of riding. I have tried DH/road cassettes on my DH bike but I end up running a standard cassette because the jumps between each gear on a DH cassette is pointless so you end up rapid firing through 5 cogs when 2 would have been much faster. I would happily run a 7 speed, but I do want to keep commonality between my bikes over spending X11 money for a DH specific drivetrain. Rather spend some of that money on a better quality cassette.
My conclusion is; next spring I will go back to 2x10. For the amount you actually would have to switch up front, it's not that big of a bother. Personally, I have not tried, so hypocritically speaking, 11 gears is a lot to shift out back, I mean, my 10-speed already seems on the limit of hassle (I've spent most of my life on a 3x9).
Ultimately I say, to each their own. But what a fun conversation to have, being a total gear head
RIDE ON MY FELLOW BIKERS!!!!!!!!!!! Hope our trails meet and happy cycling!
You're the best people in the world!
Sam and brendog ran it for a season or 2 on the demo. What's stopping it trickling down to us? I want one and I want it now.
Plus the extra half inch clearance it gives at the BB is a massive plus too.
So far here's what I understand.
Micro uses more chain wrap which is better but it also means faster wearing. It requires a small 7tooth cog and finally it requires a certain hub I believe.
But they are the future of dh gearing possibly with the exceptions of the internal that zerode use. But for any none internal gear its the only logical step.
The only benefit of having gone to 9sp from 8sp is the 34T granny, with 10sp, the only real benefit is the 36T. My 8sp chains lasted longer than the 9sp chains do. 10sp is worse, still.
The whole notion of evenly spaced gears needs to be re-evaluated. What we need is some climbing gears, some mid-range gears for descending technical stuff and some gears for getting to/from trail or pedaling through the boring, flat parts of trails. A wide range, limited in gearing internally geared option is what I want. Run that with a single speed chain or a belt.
_MK
As in Matt Denisson's recent movie "How to be a Mountain Biker", some of this could've been included along side the wheel size part of the movie, "Pick a drive train and be a dick about it."
-for enduro (or hard all mountain) I have a 1x9 setup (34-11 cassette), with 32 chainring. It's fine for climbing but shit for going down, if the track is gnarly it's alright but if it's fast I spin out pretty quickly (really annoying). 34 chainring wouldn't be enough for going up (I live in the alps and it can get pretty streep and long).
I am going to buy a 34 t chainring with 11-36 cassette (so new chain and derailleur time...). 34 chainring and 36 out back is pretty much the same ratio as 32chainring*34... But will have the 34*11 (I hope it will be enough).
Never going back to 2x up front ! it's the worst, chain keeps coming off even with tensioner and front shifting isn't as good as in the back and front derailleurs are a pain !
last but not least, why not a gearbox ??? (no chain coming off, no derailleur to get hit, as many gears as you like... win win situation ! someone just needs to invent a proper mtb specific gearbox !)
i would love to have about 4 or 5 gears on my dh bike with which i can be absolutely sure, that the gear directly changes when i shift not later and not in rough terrain by itself.
i think if you need about 30 gears youre not hard enough...... its just heavy and complicated.... better train your legs properly to get along with maximum 11 gears... ( i think costumers with weak legs are the reason for the 3x10! .... nothing else... )
2 chainrings in front should be the absolute maximum.
for every type of riding (exept if u want to win a race) u should have as less gears as possible with ur legs....
most people should train more before they buy expensive bikes!
My point is, I think 1x10 (or1x11 if your rich or when prices drop) is fine. I think I can count on my hand and feet the amount of times I have used a granny ring in the last 20 years! Seriously, except tarmac, those ratios are so low, that traction is the problem in the end.
36x15 + 36x17 + 36x19 to ride down, if I need to go faster by pedaling then the track is probably not that interesting...
People regardless of number of front rings have always run poor gearing options usually what came on the bike.
Much more can be had for your riding and area if you experiment with ring sizes!
But simplicity reliability and true MTB setup XX1 has brought true MTB gearing to riding, a year on still to drop a chain, replacing front XX1 ring with a Wolf Tooth components ring to try its reliability!
I'd say though now X01 is available buy the X01 Transmission choose your own cranks as now many narrow wide tooth options available, not with XX1 due to the offset spider, it can be replaced, or as Wolf Tooth have done they remove the spider and bolt straight to the crank for even lighter stiffer setup, hopefully more durable, though cant complain about a year out of my XX1 ring!
My general riding is 32t for Enduro 34t maybe even 36t so I can stay in the middle out back more and not have to change gears so much!
DH, Specialised Sram option def way to go, 7spds is all you need, 10/11 for DH is BS marketing!
Single Ring!!
They're can be only ONE..
I don't really see what the need for discussion is, everyone should just ride whatever they want and there's no need to justify their choices any further than i ride it because |I like it.
Ask the California guys who came up to ride the TR3 last year. They were complaining about how steep things were compared to their local trails in California and asked if it was a bike race or a hike race. I just dropped it in my 22T granny gear and smiled as I pedaled past while they pushed. Long story short, pick what suits your local terrain and go ride.
edit: nevermind, went to SRAMs site and they only have 11-36. Shimano looks like its the same with them.
These bikes are more or less purpose build for a narrow usage range.... The trail bike is more complicated, local XC (fast park-like conditions) including a lot of tarmac to get there and get home again, more challenging terrain sometimes in the weekend (like Houffalize), maybe quite fast, maybe very technical... Considering my fitness level is not coping with 'whatever setup' I bring, I need to either swap constantly chainrings (considering I know what to expect which is often not the case) or have a setup that covers it all...
Single ring setups have their advantages when you know what to expect and are willing to change the bike for the circumstances, if you just do not want to bother, take the bike and ride whatever, it is hard to get around setups that give you the equivalent of 14~16 wide spread ratios.
XC 29" (yes i'm gay): 2x10, 22-36 front, 11-32 rear cassette (x7, x9 type 2, KMC) and i won't ever ever ever ever put the single chain ring in the front!!!!! I take care of my life and i don't want to die uphill
road-cx-commutee bike: 3x10, 24-32-44 front, 11-25 rear cassette (XT, x7, x9, Campagnolo Xenon Cassette, KMC)
Leave all the prissy 11 speed super light chains, fussy shifting and clanking 27-30 speed front mech nonsense for XC.
It's not the number of gears that's important, it's having the right gearing for you. Where and what you ride will determine the range you need. How you ride will determine the spacing you want. I've been running a 2X8 double ring and bash guard set up for about 15 years to clear logs and bedrock on local singletrack. I don't ride enough fast dirt roads to need a triple.
We run 32T front and 11-41 in the rear.
Not much we cant attack. Wish we had a little more top end but it is a trade off. the 41 is a little to tight on the derailuer so a 40 would be more ideal. I can tell you the 1x9 works the best and has the best performance and durability and lowest cost....
The drivetrain manufacturers could offer a 11-40 9sp cassette and make a lot of people happy but they wont because it make it almost impossible to get people to shell out the $1500 upgrade to xx1 or x01 systems.
Oh did I mention this was only a $50 upgrade......1x9 or 1x10......
But for a wider range, you can just put 2 or 3 rings in the front. Sram should offer this custom option for those who really like to shift alot
GEARBOX for the win.
Stick that in your Poll.
If all you do is ride dirt, you won´t read this article ^^
pinion.eu/en/discover-pinion/pinion-p1-18
// Lars the Swede ;D
A 24/36 up front matched with a shi(t)mano 12-36 (cause SRAM doesn't make one) cassette in the rear.
Very good gear spread for 9 speed.
Check it out:
www.gear-calculator.com/#KB=24,36&RZ=12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32,36&GR=DERS&TF=85&UF=2126&SL=2.75
Xx/1 or Xo/1 setup once it comes down in price
Usually have no issues with keeping up with other riders
In fact I'm always pretty much in front
I have 175mm arms on my bike with a 38t ring and 11-36 out back.
Comments?
I ride 175mm cranks too. 185 [I don't know if that exists] is only 5.7% longer. Shorter, the same math again, the 175 is only 2.9% longer than the 170. Roadies might notice these differences in that their legs are travelling less, but us, other than interference I don't think I'd notice the difference.
A 1x5 should be all you nee if you really feel you only need 5 gears.
The poll suggest that people like ten cogs vs eleven. Probably due to cost.
No need for roadie narrow gaps. If you have time to establish cadence - your trails suck.
i think if you are not pro you dont need that many gears.
www.pinkbike.com/photo/10277919
Come on Shimano just do it!!
It give them not only a broad view, a big picture, of the statistical population opinion (of their potential consumers), but also the detailed information about the preferences of each of us.
This information is priceless, and in my opinion it is worse than http-cookies.
youre right, some just use the sponsor stuff and thats it. but some really know what they want and are poular enough to choose their sponsors or get signature stuff made just how they want it.
-bearclaw grips
-sam hill saddle, 135mm rear on demo, special cassette, pedals
-fabien barels mondraker summum was also really special
-gees new gt
-bulldog is still using burgtec pedals
-i think athertons were using 9speed last year
- ...
i respect the pro opinion much more than the opinion of journalists. (most) jounalists no1 subject is writing not riding
steve peat is one of the guys which stay their stuff true
just look at his stem