For dirt jump and slope style riders there has always been the issue of figuring out how to route the front brake line. You could run a really long front break line; I have done that before, and have a complete mess of cables. The usual alternatives are to use a BMX over sized star nut or modify a regular one and route it through a narrow hole and have the line stick straight up out of the steer. RockShox has come out with a solution, enter the Turn Coat.
Read on,These other options are not that bad if you are running a mechanical up front brake as the lines are simple to route and relatively cheap to replace. With today’s bikes and brakes very few people run mechanical brakes, nearly everyone runs hydraulic. With the hydraulic you have to cut, remove the line end crimp and re-bleed the system every time you need to get your fork off or change something in the cockpit, which is time consuming and can add up in costs. With this system you still have to detach the line at the lever, but you do not have to cut the crimp on the end to have it fit through the narrow hole, saving time and money. Also after one too many cuts the brake line may need to be replaced, as it is no longer the desired length. If done carefully and correctly the line can be detached and reconnected without having to be bled.
The device itself is simple. Consisting of an aluminum tube, 4 bolts (2 long, 2 short), and 2 caps. It tightens the headset by pulling up on the bottom of the steer and pulls down like a normal star nut cap on the top of the steer, compressing everything. For those who remember the headlock system it is very similar or how Chris King tensions their 1.5" headsets.
I originally ran this system as just a headset retention unit on a new bike with a new fork and headset. Most of the time a new bike's headset will become lose as everything breaks in. I never had to touch or adjust anything after my initial set up. During the course of a month I rode everything on my 6-inch travel Morpheus Loki. Downhill, jumps, drops; even 50/50 cased a few things. Never had my head set slip. Craftsmanship is top notch and everything lines up and threads together beautifully.
The system itself is simple and clean. Without the break line routed in a standard fashion, I've had several people ask me what it was hanging out the bottom of the steer tube.
RockShox Turn Coat Details:-Two caps and a rod eliminate the star nut and create a smooth interface for the front brake cable to run through.
-Bar spin and tail whip friendly
-Available for 1 1/8", 1 1/2" and Tapered Headtube set ups
-Availability: August 1, 2010
-$30 USD msrp
At just over double weight, 68 grams for both caps, center rod, and bolts (one short, one long) of a standard star nut, bolt and cap, (29 grams), and nearly the same as an oversized star nut, bolt and cap at 59 grams.
Installation can either be one of two ways; easy and not quite as easy. If you are installing it on a new fork, you are golden, as it will easily mount. The system will not work with a star nut pre-installed in the steer. I installed the Turn Coat on just that style - Star nut already in and it can be a pain to remove the star nut. With some forks the star nut can simply be pushed down and out through the bottom of the steer, which is not a huge head ache. With me this was not the case. I had to remove the star nut out the top as my steer tapers on the inside and is far too narrow at the bottom and the star nut would become lodged. The easiest solution I found is to drill the center threads out until the middle has been removed leaving you with the two round stars. Tap one side of the first star with a punch and hammer, turning it on its side. Once on its side it can be easily extracted with pliers. Repeat for the second.
The installation of the actual device is simple; much less complicated than installing a new star nut. Have your fork in the frame and have all your head set parts and spacers set the way you like. Once installed it will be difficult to remove the spacers and change stack heights as the front brake line will be routed through them. Pre-install the bottom bolt to the center rod, and place it up the lower steer. Depending on your steer tube length you will have to figure out either to use the long, short or combination of the short/long bolts (both included) to secure it in place.
The system worked as intended, looks clean, and is simple to use. There is not much you can knock on it. You can always knock the weigh as everyone wants parts to weigh less, but
RockShox has done a great job with this product and it’s a must for any slope style or dirt jump bike.
drill the rivet lip off the top with a big drill bit
with a punch (allen key, screw driver) knock the nut down a bit aboot 1/4 inch
push the top star sideways an pull it out with needle nose pliers
do the same to the bottom star
job done in about 3mins
seems that anyway the hydraulic line must be made inside the steerer tube of fork?
Point is, many people are breaking away from hard tails. With bikes like the Blackmkt coming out etc it's WAY more common to see fully's than hard tails now at many places.
Also, what the hell does slopestyle have to do with bar spins? lol. You do realize that "slopestyle" bikes are heavily ridden as DJ & 4x bikes, + free ride bikes. You think that just because something has a name "slopestyle" bike that means it HAS to be ridden ONLY on slopestyle.
Yet again, epic failure for know-it-all pinkbike users.
Its ok tho, I was just as ignorant when I was 18...
O and btw, if you think only whistler has a slopestyle course, your missing the hundreds of ski resorts world wide that have similar.
Care to highlight where I put you down?
You do realize the second to last 2 comments were directed at pinkbike as a whole?
Know it all... def not. But I have seen the bike world for longer than you have been alive... and that is enough to get a general idea about how things work, and why people market the things the do.
No 1.5?
I got a new brake set, and the front hose is too short! It keeps me from x-upping, but my steerer is 1.5...
And x-up is one if the few tricks I know how to do "/
1 1/2 = 1.5
inexpenciv me thinks!
there would be no point to do this on a dh bike.
blogs.bikemag.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/img_2706.jpg
IMO like you said, going to the hardware store and getting a rubber grommet and drilling hole makes more sense, but this is a do no work and bolt on ordeal. Whatev, this will in the end help push people still running star nuts to switch to a headloc system. Most never venture to em because of the cost (30ish+) all the way to laziness. Maybe these will increase Answer's sales for theirs once people realize the answer is better in every way. (haha no pun intended)