Straitline Pedals
Straitline Pedal's £89.99rrp is on the expensive side you'll say, and I'd agree. That's considerably more than the Funn Soljam Vipers and a set of the top AtomLabs, though they are a lot less than a set of Burgtecs.
![photo]()
So why spend the best part of a hundred on a set of pedals? Let's find out why...
Design wise these are probably the cleanest flowing design I have seen since the re-incarnation of the all time classic Shimano DX. The huge snow plow shovel front plate does not catch any mud, how good is that? This will do you IronHorse Sunday riders a favor when they help you skim over rocks rather than digging in and sending you OTB (Over the bars).
Every corner and edge of these platforms looks like they have been smoothed off by hand, meaning super model looks and mud clearing ease.
![photo]()
The only downside? Having to fit them. Couldn't they get some 8 year old kid to do it and pay them $3 a month?
I can also hear all the Devil Pedal crew saying, "What happens when you slip and they cut into your leg, who will kiss it better"? Well for starters they are that grippy when combined with a set of 5.10s that, that will never, ever happen. Secondly this article isn't for you so go back to your knitting.
The cro-mo spindles ride on polymer bearings that weigh a load less than your conventional bearings. They require no lube or grease and are double sealed at both ends. This means they are impervious to water and dust with the added bonus of running silent and smoother than the Cadbury's Caramel Bunny.
Paper, Rock, Scissors and it's that easy to work on these:
Technical specs:
• 12mm CrMo or Ti spindles
• 14 stainless steel traction pins per side
• 9/16-20 thread (MTB standard you dummies)
Available in: Anodized Black, Grey, Pink, X-Ray, Red, Bronze White, (BLUE for 09) and a super trick Jeff Lenoski Signature Model Lime Green!
Pedal pins are available separately in packs of ten at £7.99rrp and there are two options: Sharp or Standard.
![photo]()
Handling? Well these are low profile pedals which is definitely the way forward, less metal means lighter and less depth means less chance of catching your pedals on those rocks. The axle still sticks up a fraction, though the tough steel pins keep your rubber soles away from feeling that axle (Unlike the Crank Brothers 50/50s). A slight concave (think dished out like a skateboard) to help keep your trotters in place.
Verdict? If you've got £90 to blow on pedals then these are the ones, a bling factor of 10 and bearings/seals that will last an age.
Only downside will be trying to replace those pins after you have twanged them off a rock. Would insertion from underneath of the pins be the only improvement? You decide.
Available in the U.K from www.Hotlines-uk.com
Everyone else go here: www.straitlinecomponents.com
Never, ever, clip in!
Si Paton.
www.Descent-Gear.com
This is what makes up a pair of Straitline pedals
So why spend the best part of a hundred on a set of pedals? Let's find out why...
Design wise these are probably the cleanest flowing design I have seen since the re-incarnation of the all time classic Shimano DX. The huge snow plow shovel front plate does not catch any mud, how good is that? This will do you IronHorse Sunday riders a favor when they help you skim over rocks rather than digging in and sending you OTB (Over the bars).
Every corner and edge of these platforms looks like they have been smoothed off by hand, meaning super model looks and mud clearing ease.
Pins, 14 of them as sharp as crocodile teeth.
The only downside? Having to fit them. Couldn't they get some 8 year old kid to do it and pay them $3 a month?
I can also hear all the Devil Pedal crew saying, "What happens when you slip and they cut into your leg, who will kiss it better"? Well for starters they are that grippy when combined with a set of 5.10s that, that will never, ever happen. Secondly this article isn't for you so go back to your knitting.
The cro-mo spindles ride on polymer bearings that weigh a load less than your conventional bearings. They require no lube or grease and are double sealed at both ends. This means they are impervious to water and dust with the added bonus of running silent and smoother than the Cadbury's Caramel Bunny.
Technical specs:
• 12mm CrMo or Ti spindles
• 14 stainless steel traction pins per side
• 9/16-20 thread (MTB standard you dummies)
Available in: Anodized Black, Grey, Pink, X-Ray, Red, Bronze White, (BLUE for 09) and a super trick Jeff Lenoski Signature Model Lime Green!
Pedal pins are available separately in packs of ten at £7.99rrp and there are two options: Sharp or Standard.
Nice and clean!
Handling? Well these are low profile pedals which is definitely the way forward, less metal means lighter and less depth means less chance of catching your pedals on those rocks. The axle still sticks up a fraction, though the tough steel pins keep your rubber soles away from feeling that axle (Unlike the Crank Brothers 50/50s). A slight concave (think dished out like a skateboard) to help keep your trotters in place.
Verdict? If you've got £90 to blow on pedals then these are the ones, a bling factor of 10 and bearings/seals that will last an age.
Only downside will be trying to replace those pins after you have twanged them off a rock. Would insertion from underneath of the pins be the only improvement? You decide.
Available in the U.K from www.Hotlines-uk.com
Everyone else go here: www.straitlinecomponents.com
Never, ever, clip in!
Si Paton.
www.Descent-Gear.com
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To the haters, maybe you should actually try a pair rather than base your opinion on something you haven't tried, don't know about, or a distant rumour you might of heard on a forum somewhere....
deffinately give them a 9/10
I agree, it took me nearly 2 hours to get those buggers in, and I won't even try and get them out, at least you know once they are in that they will stay, nor will they wear or snap.
Oh, yeah. P.S, never, ever try no foot style tricks with those, unless of course you have the ultimate precision with your feet. Once you get caught with these you will be taking a prompt trip to the hospital for stitches. Also, with 5.10's you may experience a clipped in style feeling, so beware! Clips suck.
Retention clips, and I'm not even talking about them falling off. The are a pain to work w/ and have a shorter lifespan than threaded fasteners, and are a pain in the ass to work with. Never heard of mag pedals breaking. And "the right resistance" is different for everyone and bearings allow you to tune that in better
You've never heard of magnesium pedals breaking? I sure have. Dozens in fact. My MG-1's broke on the connecting support when they clipped a rock, and 2 sets of Specialized Lo Pro Mag 2's met their end by rock's too.
You can tweak the resistance with bushings, by using different types & viscosity grease/lubes.
Straitline use 'poodle clips' because they tend to last much longer than any other clips (circlip, e-clip, c-clip etc...) And by the time you actually need to get new clips, it'll be time for new bushings, in which new clips come with new bushings.
plus the anno/paint they use lasts a long time i have the white and they just stay white it never wears down (as of yet)
verdict absolutely awesome I swear by these now
only downside is Im hooked to them and I wouldnt be able to ride anythign else. ....or is that agood thing?
i can NOT understand the 5050 complaints.. take the middle screws out.. that will help for some grip..for some..and use locktite like a proper mechanic ! i run 5050xx's for trial.. you must understand they get very hard abuse by bailing out ..catching ledges..and so on.. they have in 2-3 years little to nothing > NO play and less land less anodising
would look pimp:P