Tech Tuesday: Adjust the Pivot Bearings on Any Santa Cruz VPP Suspension

Sep 20, 2011

by Richard Cunningham

This tip could be the best kept secret among Santa Cruz Blur, Nomad and V10 owners - Watch and learn.This tip could be the best kept secret among Santa Cruz Blur, Nomad and V10 owners - Watch and learn.
Tech Tuesday comes live from the Santa Cruz tent at the Dirt Demo outdoor expo in Bootleg Canyon. Most santa Cruz owners have a vague idea that their VPP suspension pivots can be adjusted for side play, but if asked exactly how that adjustment might be done, the default would be a blank stare. As it turns out, the angular contact bearings and collet-type axle retention system that Santa Cruz designed for its VPP suspension rarely needs attention - which means that Blur, Nomad and V10 owners rarely, if ever, need to think about their pivot bearings. Sooo, just in case you wanted to know how to adjust your VPP pivots, Santa Cruz Product Manager Josh Kissner takes us through the three-minute adjustment process. Watch and learn.

Tools you'll need to get the job done right:

• One 4, 5, 6-millimeter combination Allen wrench
• One 8-millimeter Allen wrench
• Blue (non-permanent) LocTite thread locking fluid
• Light-viscosity waterproof grease
• Shop towel

Tip: you may want to do this job simply to check your pivot bearings. Remember that the bearings may be perfectly adjusted, so rather than tightening them just for good measure, back the bearing tension out with the 8-millimeter Allen wrench a quarter turn and then begin the process. The 5-millimeter Allen screw you see on the outer end of the pivots is simply a locking screw, not an adjustment. Snug it up and leave it be.

How to Adjust the Pivot Bearings on Santa Cruz VPP Suspension Bikes

Tech Tuesday

by deceptacon

Views: 41,891 Faves: 121 Comments: 4

So, that's all there is to it. Explore the vast and interesting world that is SantaCruzBikes.com, and don't forget to tell us if you got your VPP pivots running perfectly smooth, all by yourself.

Posted In:
Reviews and Tech Tech Tuesday Santa Cruz Bicycles

Must Read This Week

Review: The Orbea Wild M-LTD Raises the Bar for eMTB
45052 views

Check Out: Mons Royale's SS 23 Apparel, A Tiny Torque Wrench & Key Lime Pie Protein Powder
42999 views

Pinkbike Poll: Clipless vs Flat - What's Your Pedal Preference?
38440 views

Tech Briefing: May 2023
38278 views

Slack Randoms: Triangle Wheels, Gee Atherton's Backcountry Ride & More
36750 views

British Cycling Limits Transgender Women Competing in Female Categories
28880 views

Must Watch: Brandon Semenuk's Fools Gold
26585 views

Ragley Releases 2023 All-Hardtail Lineup
23767 views

68 Comments

thrice (Sep 20, 2011 at 7:24)

Nice! I found this through trial and error just this past weekend. This tech tusesday came at a great time since I think I over tightened the axles. Should go back and loosen them up a bit. Thanks pinkbike!

elmono (Sep 20, 2011 at 13:30)

Thanks for the vid.

The procedure is actually also explained pretty good within the tech section of each bike at the Santa Cruz homepage.
Essential thing he did not mention: Do not mix Loctite with grease while reassembling the pivots.

dhbasher (Sep 23, 2011 at 5:32)

Tell me about it! had to replace all my bearings on warranty after a year and needed to retight them 5 times this year! even had to reduce the sleeves so I can tight them enough...now it's fine but I ride it hard all day all the time! love my V-10!

DocterDH (Sep 20, 2011 at 5:00)

Ha dont have mine yet, itl be here in a week though. YEEHAA cant wait to give it a thrash on the local trails. Queenstown baby here I come.

crag222 (Sep 20, 2011 at 5:23)

@t1mbo why? do u not no how loctite works?

timbud (Sep 20, 2011 at 8:00)

course not. This is pinkbike, why would I know anything?

deadatbirth (Sep 20, 2011 at 8:55)

it would appear you obviously dont

10 3

timbud (Sep 20, 2011 at 10:02)

sorry you've confused me... obviously don't what? Can you say it slowly

mretard (Sep 20, 2011 at 9:09)

right so this only works on the new SC range

Zziplex (Oct 18, 2014 at 14:36)

Juicy fort cited turbo hub vyurxuyrciutvouyvuitc trxytexuyutvuitv yrx thete vuoyvyrcturcuoubiunohiiybtcrxexec ugvyiyc utvutc uyvuitv

eebinVr6 (Sep 20, 2011 at 13:57)

Easy on the Loctite. Just a single drop is enough.

hankyman (Sep 20, 2011 at 15:06)

werd, that stuff was dripping off! no good

crazyoldcoot (Sep 20, 2011 at 17:07)

No man lather that stuff on! Over tighten the bolts too, you can never be too careful ;-)

jlmeyer (Aug 23, 2013 at 20:44)

Anyone know of a similar type of bearing tune and replacement guide for the Intense M9? Looking at trying it out myself.

Scottfr2013 (Nov 26, 2015 at 0:33)

Where can i buyBlue (non-permanent) LocTite thread locking fluid plz anyone

joni0001984 (Jun 15, 2017 at 13:16)

And what happens after a few years when the pivot nut digs a hole in the frame? Epoxy!

jonathanbruck (Oct 21, 2020 at 12:26)

Thanks for this. Was putting off a trip to the shop to get the link looked at. This got me back rolling again.

redtosco (Sep 20, 2011 at 6:09)

how about the Loc-Tite, do I have to wait until it dries our not?

asmodeuss (Sep 20, 2011 at 6:53)

indeed, you need to wait until it cure if you want it to work properly. (12 hrs to 24 hrs for best result)

deadatbirth (Sep 20, 2011 at 8:56)

no. as per the instructions from Loctite, you assembly the hardware with the loctite still "wet." it does take up to 24hrs to cure once assembled though

frdh (Sep 20, 2011 at 10:30)

@deadatbirth thats what asmodeuss just said. Obviously you assemble the loctite while its wet but you shouldn't use it for 24 hrs otherwise the bolts can loosen.

redtosco (Sep 20, 2011 at 17:58)

thanks for the tips.

asmodeuss (Sep 21, 2011 at 6:47)

Obviously you do not stare at your bolt tìll the loc-tite cure, you put it in wet...

deadatbirth (Sep 21, 2011 at 14:47)

most people dont realize you assemble the hardware right away applying the loctite

johnysss (Sep 20, 2011 at 12:50)

i have a 2009 v10.is it the same process??

deadatbirth (Sep 20, 2011 at 14:37)

nope. you dont have the collets on your bike

johnysss (Sep 20, 2011 at 15:54)

ok thanx mate

tobes27 (Sep 20, 2011 at 14:40)

wish I had known this years ago. Thanks guys!!!

billypopo (Sep 20, 2011 at 14:47)

Does 2010 V10 have this system ?

nikoniko (Sep 20, 2011 at 6:26)

That was awesome! RidEOn!

killerbikeman (Sep 20, 2011 at 11:22)

I watched this video two three weeks ago on someone else account lol

phil130792 (Sep 20, 2011 at 11:59)

freeze the video at: 1:18 you can see evidence of blue loctite

Kiran (Sep 20, 2011 at 20:17)

Josh is the man.

timbud (Sep 20, 2011 at 5:07)

Have to say I'm a little concerned about using loctite on those bolts.

nouser (Sep 20, 2011 at 5:41)

well if someone who works on the bike and for santa cruz says he does then i think you can be pretty sure its fine!

timbud (Sep 20, 2011 at 7:55)

Last time I used the stuff, the bolt sheared when I tried to remove it.
As those pivot bolts are something I'd like to be able to remove them once in a while.

Plus if it was that important how come there was none on when he pulled it out?

phil130792 (Sep 20, 2011 at 8:38)

the loctite had worn away when he removed the bolt but you could see it had been used previously.

timbud (Sep 20, 2011 at 10:21)

I didn't see any sign of any previous loctite on there.
Besides, what good is loctite anyway if it wears away like that?

stefan-ram (Sep 20, 2011 at 10:30)

What kind of loctite you used?
-i guess the red one

shrockie (Sep 20, 2011 at 12:02)

The locktite shears off when the bolt is removed. the internal threading rubs the material off the bolt as you remove it. you'll see some residue between the threads, but not a coating.. Red locktite needs to be removed with heat.. it's a 'permanent' use product.. chances are, the bolt had other contamanents that caused it to seize and the head to shear off. Blue is the stuff to use. I hope this helps T1. cheers.

rffr (Sep 21, 2011 at 23:48) (Below Threshold)

A bolt sheared because you used loc-tite? Wow, you are an epic failure. Stop working on bikes. Stop riding bikes. Hit yourself in the head with a hammer and be done with it.

There are no stupid questions and comments... just stupid people... and you fall right into that category.

And shockie, the red loc-tite needing to be removed with heat also falls into the quote above in this reply. You also have 0 idea what your talking about. Flippen brain dead people on PB thinking they know everything about everything.

NO loctite needs to be removed with heat. If you think that you know absolutely nothing about mechanic work.

timbud (Sep 24, 2011 at 8:14)

Well done sir, for giving an opinion as fact. And then without provocation jumping straight in with groundless insults and trolling. You are a credit to your country. Have a medal.

timbud (Sep 24, 2011 at 8:37)

For those that bother to read this far it doesn't take much of a search (google or whatever) to find that what shrockie wrote is correct.

Below threshold threads are hidden

freestyIAM (Sep 21, 2011 at 15:47)

So this whole vid is about how to 'properly' adjust your pivots but he forgets his torque wrench and adjusts it anyway and post this thing anyway. This is a video of how to improperly adjust your pivots. And anyone who thinks they can estimate the amount of torque by hand without a torque wrench is full of it. Seriously, go home and give it a try. Have your buddy torque something down and not tell you how much force it has on it and see if you can guess (even within plus or minus 20%). Me and John Barnett say you can't

erok81 (Sep 21, 2011 at 16:45)

I think it's a video on how to adjust pivot bearings, not how to use a torque wrench. He gives the tightness specs and tells you to use a torque wrench. Seems pretty straight forward to me. The video was very helpful I thought. My pivot was sloppy as hell. I just thought it was just the design - nope. Mine was pretty loose.

On a sidenote; "eyeballing" torque isn't that hard. Your idea is flawed and won't show a true torque reading anyway. Even with a torque wrench.

rffr (Sep 21, 2011 at 23:46)

Freesty, he is a Pro SC mechanic. He has the torque down by memory. I can torque parts on my truck within 1/2lb of what they need to be by memory.

Instead of saying he is a dumbass, how about you just think that maybe this guy works for the company that designed the bike and knows a piss ton more than you about it. If you contest my opinion, I expect you to have a representative mechanic job at Santa Cruz within the next 48 hours.

timbud (Sep 24, 2011 at 8:21)

No one called anyone a dumbass rffr!

I'm confused how you managed to pull fact out of thin air without proof and then start crying the moment someone dares to challenge you?
Get out and ride your bike some more and vent your anger in a positive way eh.

freestyIAM (Sep 24, 2011 at 10:43)

I just read through my post and no where do i see the word dumbass rffr. I know he's a pro mech and not a dumbass and i don't doubt that he knows "a piss ton" more about the bike than i do but i still don't believe that he or anyone for that matter can adjust anything to torque spec without a wrench. I'm also willing to bet that you didn't run my experiment (Have your buddy torque something down and not tell you how much force it has on it and see if you can guess) I have done this, when i went through the BBI program to get my Cert 2, and i'm telling you there is no way you can know the exact torque even by supposed feel or memory. Not even if you use the same wrench with the same length (and therefore same leverage) it's not possible. If you can do it than post a vid and then you can make a living going around recalibrating wrenches for shops who don't want to pay the fees for having em sent in and calibrated by high precision machines.

As to erok81, you are right, i was picking out a small part of the video and it wasn't fair to bash the whole tech tip, but it seemed like he was doing the job only half right by not having his torque wrench and if he was actually adjusting it for a race instead of a video he half cared about, then he'd have gone out and found one cuz that kind of slop doesn't fly at the pro level. I posted my comment because i'm tired of people perpetuating the incorrect notion that you can adjust things to spec just by hand without the proper tools.

6 16

JubaBabaci (Sep 20, 2011 at 4:29)

Cause Ya know.... We all have v-10's

10 0

nouser (Sep 20, 2011 at 4:58)

not everyone has sram derailuers, rock shox forks or shimano brakes either if you have a look at past tech tuesdays you'll see they are trying to cover as wide a range as possible

GLORYOUS (Sep 20, 2011 at 5:26)

And not only the V10 has the VPP system...

JubaBabaci (Sep 20, 2011 at 5:39)

I know vpp is for all Santa Cruz Bikes and Intense etc And i know about previous techs too. Just not as common as Components that's all. Nothing wrong with the video either. Peace

WAKIdesigns (Sep 20, 2011 at 6:51)

There shall be no peace!!! I saw some cracked Kona frames and Marzocchis with bushing play out of the box!

JubaBabaci (Sep 20, 2011 at 8:29)

People so serious now days haha

hankyman (Sep 20, 2011 at 15:09)

kona......

WAKIdesigns (Sep 20, 2011 at 23:57)

Conan

nouser (Sep 21, 2011 at 15:47)

Colon.

WAKIdesigns (Sep 21, 2011 at 23:34)

Me gusta!

2 18

Pezlar (Sep 20, 2011 at 3:36)

Would this work on a V10?? Mines a bit creaky :S

22 2

Lax30 (Sep 20, 2011 at 4:00)

Readings fundamental

mretard (Sep 20, 2011 at 7:47)

the whole point of this video was to do with VPP linkage was it not? if not then fecked if i know what i just watched, going to get this done on my v10 when i can be bothered to strip it down and clean it up

jimzworld1 (Sep 20, 2011 at 8:08)

My 2011 V10 carbon has been creaky all season, but it's the bolt at the adjustable travel plates at the bottom shock mount that are the problem on mine. Every few days you have to take it apart, clean, grease and re-assemble to eliminate the creak. (it is loud folks) Spoke w SC about it who say they will deal with it one way or the other, but so far just ask me to grease and try it again basically. Gonna to send some steel parts to replace the ti ones, somehow I don't think that'll do it. Bike is great for a few days until the creak returns making the thing sound like a Walmart special! Not too happy to say the least!

PhilipVega (Sep 20, 2011 at 8:17)

My V10 has been tight and squeak free all season. It's the only DH bike I've ever had that has been this maintenance free. The angle set on the other hand took a while to stop from clanking hard on big hits, but with some tinkering that finally went away. SC's pivots really are the best.

Pezlar (Sep 20, 2011 at 12:40) (Below Threshold)

Why are people negative propping my comment? It was only a question for gods sake. Were a biking community let's keep it friendly!

universe (Sep 20, 2011 at 13:41)

You butthurt the SC lovers. PB is not a biking community. Its all about butthurt.

Pezlar (Sep 20, 2011 at 14:02)

What?

shrockie (Sep 20, 2011 at 17:07)

Pezlar, depends on the year of your V-10. I'm not sure when the collet design was introduced.. apparently all the new bikes have them.

Jim, The lower shock bolt spec is 140 inch/lbs.. have you replaced all the spacers and the DU bushing? might be worth a try.. it's a cheap fix.

joslatapi (Sep 20, 2011 at 23:12)

easy, easy....calm down brows...enjoy life