Tech Tuesday - RockShox Maxle Lite DH

Mar 15, 2011 at 0:07
Mar 15, 2011
by Mike Levy  
 
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RockShox's Maxle Lite DH, used on their BoXXer fork lineup, requires only one tool to remove or install, but can still be a mystery to some. Inside we show you how it works and how to properly use it.




Some pointers before you begin...

• Although I take the Maxle apart to show you how it functions, there is no need for you to loosen it off any more than need to remove it from the fork.
• Be sure not to set the Maxle down in the dirt after removing it from the fork - installing a dirty Maxle will make removing it down the road harder. Set it somewhere clean when it's out of the bike.
• Grease is your friend. Apply a thin layer to the Maxle before installation, taking the time to wipe off any excess grease that may collect around the fork lowers.
• Never over tighten the Maxle, which is anything more than the recommended eight clicks. That is all that is required.



What's needed: 6mm hex key, grease



Learn about the RockShox Maxle:

Views: 37,972    Faves: 68    Comments: 8




Have you done this job? Want to add a tip or hint of your own? Put it down below!



Past Tech Tuesdays:

Technical Tuesday #1 - How to change a tube.
Technical Tuesday #2 - How to set up your SRAM rear derailleur
Technical Tuesday #3 - How to remove and install pedals
Technical Tuesday #4 - How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes
Technical Tuesday #5 - How To Check And Adjust Your Headset
Technical Tuesday #6 - How To Fix A Broken Chain
Technical Tuesday #7 - Tubeless Conversion
Technical Tuesday #8 - Chain Wear
Technical Tuesday #9 - SRAM Shift Cable Replacement
Technical Tuesday #10 - Removing And Installing a Headset
Technical Tuesday #11 - Chain Lube Explained
Technical Tuesday #12 - RockShox Totem and Lyric Mission Control Damper Mod
Technical Tuesday #13 - Shimano XT Crank and Bottom Bracket Installation
Technical Tuesday #14 - Straightening Your Derailleur Hanger
Technical Tuesday #15 - Setting Up Your Front Derailleur
Technical Tuesday #16 - Setting Up Your Cockpit
Technical Tuesday #17 - Suspension Basics
Technical Tuesday #18 - Adjusting The Fox DHX 5.0
Technical Tuesday #19 - Adjusting The RockShox BoXXer World Cup
Technical Tuesday #20 - Servicing Your Fox Float Shock
Technical Tuesday #21 - Wheel Truing Basics
Technical Tuesday #22 - Shimano Brake Pad Replacement
Technical Tuesday #23 - Shimano brake bleed
Technical Tuesday #24 - Fox Lower Leg Removal And Service
Technical Tuesday #25 - RockShox Motion Control Service
Technical Tuesday #26 - Avid BB7 Cable Disk Brake Setup
Technical Tuesday #27 - Manitou Dorado Fork Rebuild
Technical Tuesday #28 - Manitou Circus Fork Rebuild
Technical Tuesday #29 - MRP G2 SL Chain Guide Install
Technical Tuesday #30 - Cane Creek Angleset Installation

Visit Parktool.com to see their entire lineup of tools and lubes.
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46 Comments

  • + 16
 oh my lord now i see where i have been going wrong for so long, so this is how you take a maxle in and out now i can put my front wheel in so i can ride propperly instead of pulling a wheelie where i ever i go.
  • + 4
 my maxel is stuck in my hub :\
  • - 12
flag jackgolfgti (Mar 15, 2011 at 3:19) (Below Threshold)
 WD40
  • - 2
 You should NOT use WD40 on your bike anywhere that I am aware of. Keep the maxle clean, with a film of grease, and if you don't over tighten, there will never be issues. (Also make sure that your hub's axle bore is clean)

When tightening, the first screw interface is used to properly put the hub (and bearings) in compression to remove play and make a stiff interface. The final screw is what stops the assembly from rotating within your fork (only the inner races of the hub bearings should rotate when the bike is in motion). If you're not sure how something works, go to sram.com, or ask a mechanic or rider that knows their sh1t.
  • + 6
 you clearly didn't read that the guy above the wd40 comment has got his maxle stuck there for using a bit of wd40 will allow it to free it from his hub i mean im onlt talking from experience here on my old boxxers axle getting stuck so i must not know what im talkng about
  • + 6
 exactly WD40 is of a use on bike in three applications:

1.Getting threads and other stuff loose, but ALWAYS remember to carefully clean them afterwards with isopropyl alcohol to remove any remnants of WD40. It is quite dangerous to not do it afterwards as WD40 in its nature will not make it possible to make a safe and sure tightening. Bolts will be very prone to loosening. Always use grease on any part where metal meets metal. On bolts: to avoid loosening from greasing put grease only deeper into the bore, then put a thread glue like loctite on thread just under the bolt head.

2.WD40 is great for conservation of steel elements, removing rust and protecting it. But for use on surface! not in any contact point!

3.Cleaner - it might be used to clean surfaces of frame or fork.

Apart from that it is just EVIL! Authors of such "brilliant" ideas like putting it on any bolts, shock shafts, fork sliders should get a bloody punishment to their rectum and be fed with chilli for few days after.
  • - 7
flag Ganbei (Mar 15, 2011 at 7:32) (Below Threshold)
 Never put grease on a thread!! In the above application grease is applied to the axle to act as a lubricant between the ID of the hub and OD of the axle.
Loctite is used to lock a thread in place.
Rules of thumb:
Grease moving surfaces.
Blue Loctite - Semi permanent thread lock
Red Loctite - Permanent thread lock
Green Loctite - Used for interference fits
  • + 1
 beat me to it :/
  • + 1
 not matter what Avid say- their caliper mounting bolts and lever clamping bolts come from the factory with blue loctite

loctite is used to prevent vibration loosening screw threaded fixings, as the loctite fills in the tolerance gaps between the thread and the receiving nut or cut component (no thread is 100% perfect) - these tolerance gaps are what allow threaded components to work loose during vibration

you don't want / need to use grease on your caliper mounting bolts unless you want them to work loose, and under extreme heat stress (long DH runs) the grease to run all over your brakes....
  • + 1
 Dose it not all come down to often bike maintainence? I use proper race grease in the moving parts of my bike and WD40 to rub frame down to look all shiny Big Grin
  • - 1
 nope

as a professional bike mechanic I will not let WD40 anywhere near my workshop Wink
  • + 1
 WD40 sucks for getting stuck fasteners loose anyway... PB Blaster is the good stuff. Or Kroil
  • + 2
 my maxle have no more 'click' sound . . . Frown
  • + 3
 @carlosMC, loctites are single compound materials that solidify at room temperature with the absence of air. Adding a grease to a thread to improve installation torque simply masks other issues with the thread fit!!
Adding one chemical compound (grease) to another (loctite) has unpredictable effects. It’s like adding whiskey and tequila, the parties pretty good for a while but then out of nowhere crazy sh*t starts to happen. Wink
  • + 4
 I broke the back maxle on my giant SX when it would not pull out correctly.. To much emotion, not enough brain... When one does not understand, one needs to stop with immediacy and gain counsel,, OR... One will be paying 60 bucks for a new Maxle..
  • + 3
 i dunno this is rly strange to me. working with those "clicks" just doesnt seem to work for me. when removing i keep hearing the clicks until that inner thing is almost out. also when installing it and going for 8 clicks the axle (or rather that part that takes the key on the nondriveside) sticks quite far out...
  • + 1
 Same. This was the one thing i was hoping this video would explain! I just tighten it till its flush against the outside bit of the maxle.
  • + 3
 Mine is the opposite, I dont hear any clicks at all :S Im a little scared to tighten it any tighter because the spindle looks pretty flimsy
  • + 2
 Yeah I don't get any clicks either any more. So long as you just do everything up to a sensible tightness it's fine.
  • + 1
 ya exo, thats what im doing too...

edit: btw i dont rly hear any clicks, i just feel them..
  • + 1
 Ok so maybe someone can help. I am an idiot like touliouss' friend and snapped the skewer. I was then informed by a bike mechanic that I only needed a 10mm allen key to remove the axle. I tried this and it started to strip the axle, well may have actually stripped it, haha. What can be done? Any tips?
  • + 1
 too bad the detents stop working after about the first use, its a great idea but in practice not so much, it was nerve racking as hell trying to figure it out w/o the detents, too tight and you snap the skewer, too loose and it the whole think rattles loose, they need to further refine the system, for now im sticking to my pinch bolts.
  • + 3
 yup i snapped a skewer, replacement was 70 bucks. for what 8 dollars worth of aluminum?
  • + 1
 The maxle lite DH is awesome but there is one downside to the maxle i didn't like at all,ounce it's stuck(i mean realy stuck) and you can't get it out you are screwed.It happend to me last season and i was lucky enought that the RS service center got the maxle out with out getting me new lowers,but all i needed was a new maxle lite + new threads so i can screw the new maxle in.
  • + 2
 when i first got my maxle last year i was a dumbass and didnt read the intructions ... i over tightened the skewer and snapped it ... just do the 8 clicks that makes it plenty tight
  • + 1
 a friend of mine did the same, he could not hear the clicks anymore and overtightened it. The inner screw snapped. he' ll get the inner screw for 25euros instead of getting the whole maxle for 50euros.
  • + 1
 add one more
  • + 1
 Is the axle supposed to sit flush in the forks? Tightened mine to its limit and it was sticking out about 10mm, tightened it a bit further and snapped the skewer, and no I didn't hear any clicks to begin with.
  • + 3
 I get 8 clicks on mine and the wedge is like half in, should i keep going until the wedge is flush?
  • + 2
 i'd need a scaffold bar off the end of my allen key to get 8 clicks, i can normally only get about 4, might be something wrong with mine
  • + 1
 same with mine, is it normal for it to be that tight? feels like il snap something if i do 8 clicks
  • + 3
 is there really a need for this tech tuesday...i mean the instructions are right on the axle!
  • + 2
 You should allso grease the wedge because sometimes it gets stuck in the maxle and its hard to loosen it.
  • + 1
 Will the Maxle Lite dh you explain work on a Lyrik? Thanks for your response. Cheers!
  • + 1
 yeh. i believe all rockshox 35mm and 40mm legged forks use the same axle (so it will also work on a totem, and the totem/lyric maxle will work on a boxxer if you want full QR on your boxxer)
  • + 1
 this is not the case for older forks, totem quick release maxles are totally different to boxxer maxles
  • + 1
 Should work... Just makes it more of a pain to take off your front wheel.
  • + 1
 no. totem quick release WILL fit 35mm boxxers, because it is the same as the dual crown Lyric quick release maxle, and the dual crown lyric has the same lowers as the new boxxers.. trust me. Plus not to mention i have fitted a QR maxle off a set of totems to a set of 35mm boxxers
  • + 1
 Thanks for the info. I have a 2007 Rock Shox Mission control Lyrik fork with U-Turn. I do not like it's quick release. It is too iffy as to proper bering tension while using a White Industries hub. I have to ... around with it for a while sometimes to get the play out of the interface between the axle and hub bearings. I find this totally lame for a 1,000 dollar / euro fork. Not forgetting, the Maxle Lite DH takes more time to undo in theft situations. I am not sure if this changes anything. I'll have a look around to see what I can dig up. Thanks again.
  • + 1
 Hey guys, can i use this maxle on 09 boxxer wc? www.chainreactioncycles.com/lt/en/rockshox-maxle-lite/rp-prod54647
  • + 0
 Mine doesnt click. I dont really like the Maxle (cant complain about the Boxxer though). I thought the old Marzocchi dropouts were pretty good.
  • + 2
 does anyone now if you can use the 2010 onwards maxle on 09 fork boxxers
  • + 1
 Help needed...
How do you determine the size of your maxel to buy a new one?
  • + 1
 Mine doesn't click anymore when tightening.
  • + 1
 now how do you remove a rear maxle?
  • - 1
 I wouldnt use this realy... Dont think i'd trust it.

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