Tech Tuesday - RockShox Maxle Lite DH

 my maxel is stuck in my hub :\

 You should NOT use WD40 on your bike anywhere that I am aware of. Keep the maxle clean, with a film of grease, and if you don't over tighten, there will never be issues. (Also make sure that your hub's axle bore is clean)

When tightening, the first screw interface is used to properly put the hub (and bearings) in compression to remove play and make a stiff interface. The final screw is what stops the assembly from rotating within your fork (only the inner races of the hub bearings should rotate when the bike is in motion). If you're not sure how something works, go to sram.com, or ask a mechanic or rider that knows their sh1t.

 you clearly didn't read that the guy above the wd40 comment has got his maxle stuck there for using a bit of wd40 will allow it to free it from his hub i mean im onlt talking from experience here on my old boxxers axle getting stuck so i must not know what im talkng about

 exactly WD40 is of a use on bike in three applications:

1.Getting threads and other stuff loose, but ALWAYS remember to carefully clean them afterwards with isopropyl alcohol to remove any remnants of WD40. It is quite dangerous to not do it afterwards as WD40 in its nature will not make it possible to make a safe and sure tightening. Bolts will be very prone to loosening. Always use grease on any part where metal meets metal. On bolts: to avoid loosening from greasing put grease only deeper into the bore, then put a thread glue like loctite on thread just under the bolt head.

2.WD40 is great for conservation of steel elements, removing rust and protecting it. But for use on surface! not in any contact point!

3.Cleaner - it might be used to clean surfaces of frame or fork.

Apart from that it is just EVIL! Authors of such "brilliant" ideas like putting it on any bolts, shock shafts, fork sliders should get a bloody punishment to their rectum and be fed with chilli for few days after.

 beat me to it :/

 not matter what Avid say- their caliper mounting bolts and lever clamping bolts come from the factory with blue loctite

loctite is used to prevent vibration loosening screw threaded fixings, as the loctite fills in the tolerance gaps between the thread and the receiving nut or cut component (no thread is 100% perfect) - these tolerance gaps are what allow threaded components to work loose during vibration

you don't want / need to use grease on your caliper mounting bolts unless you want them to work loose, and under extreme heat stress (long DH runs) the grease to run all over your brakes....

 Dose it not all come down to often bike maintainence? I use proper race grease in the moving parts of my bike and WD40 to rub frame down to look all shiny

 nope

as a professional bike mechanic I will not let WD40 anywhere near my workshop

 WD40 sucks for getting stuck fasteners loose anyway... PB Blaster is the good stuff. Or Kroil

 my maxle have no more 'click' sound . . .

 @carlosMC, loctites are single compound materials that solidify at room temperature with the absence of air. Adding a grease to a thread to improve installation torque simply masks other issues with the thread fit!!
Adding one chemical compound (grease) to another (loctite) has unpredictable effects. It’s like adding whiskey and tequila, the parties pretty good for a while but then out of nowhere crazy sh*t starts to happen.

 Same. This was the one thing i was hoping this video would explain! I just tighten it till its flush against the outside bit of the maxle.

 Mine is the opposite, I dont hear any clicks at all :S Im a little scared to tighten it any tighter because the spindle looks pretty flimsy

 Yeah I don't get any clicks either any more. So long as you just do everything up to a sensible tightness it's fine.

 ya exo, thats what im doing too...

edit: btw i dont rly hear any clicks, i just feel them..

 a friend of mine did the same, he could not hear the clicks anymore and overtightened it. The inner screw snapped. he' ll get the inner screw for 25euros instead of getting the whole maxle for 50euros.

 add one more

 yup i snapped a skewer, replacement was 70 bucks. for what 8 dollars worth of aluminum?

 same with mine, is it normal for it to be that tight? feels like il snap something if i do 8 clicks

 yeh. i believe all rockshox 35mm and 40mm legged forks use the same axle (so it will also work on a totem, and the totem/lyric maxle will work on a boxxer if you want full QR on your boxxer)

 this is not the case for older forks, totem quick release maxles are totally different to boxxer maxles

 Should work... Just makes it more of a pain to take off your front wheel.

 no. totem quick release WILL fit 35mm boxxers, because it is the same as the dual crown Lyric quick release maxle, and the dual crown lyric has the same lowers as the new boxxers.. trust me. Plus not to mention i have fitted a QR maxle off a set of totems to a set of 35mm boxxers

 Thanks for the info. I have a 2007 Rock Shox Mission control Lyrik fork with U-Turn. I do not like it's quick release. It is too iffy as to proper bering tension while using a White Industries hub. I have to ... around with it for a while sometimes to get the play out of the interface between the axle and hub bearings. I find this totally lame for a 1,000 dollar / euro fork. Not forgetting, the Maxle Lite DH takes more time to undo in theft situations. I am not sure if this changes anything. I'll have a look around to see what I can dig up. Thanks again.