Acros A-BB-T1 External Bottom Bracket Tool - Review

Feb 10, 2015
by Chris Johannes  

Acros A-BB T1 External Bottom Bracket Tool review
The Acros A-BB-T1 External Bottom Bracket Tool is designed to help align and install your new bearing cups while minimizing the chance of cross-threading or surface damage. The integrated aluminium body and plastic insert is compatible with most Hollowtech II style bottom bracket cups.

Acros is a small company based in Renningen, Germany, that continues to expand its lineup of mountain bike components since starting up 15 years ago. The A-BB-T1 External Bottom Bracket Tool is designed to install your new bearing cups while minimizing the risk of cross-threading the frame's shell, damaging the cup’s tool slots, or scratching any anodized surfaces. The T1 is compatible with most Hollowtech II style bottom bracket cups that accept 24 millimeter spindles including Shimano, Raceface, Sram, and others. The tool is meant for 68/73 millimeter shells but also works with 83.

The assembly has an eight inch long machined aluminium body and replaceable hard plastic insert secured with four T-10 torx style bolts. The insert has 16 internal splines to engage the outer slots of the cup. A stainless steel ring slips over the insert to provide extra stiffness since torque required may be 25-40 ft*lbs. To help guide it through the cup, the long end of the tool is chamfered. The short end has ten millimeter wide flats for a 24 millimeter wrench or hex socket driver to turn the tool. Anodized gloss black with laser etch graphics it weighs in at 350 grams. The MSRP is $75 USD, and a replacement insert runs $16 USD. www.acros.de

Acros A-BB T1 External Bottom Bracket Tool review
The Exploded View: Shown clockwise, the anodized aluminium body with centering shaft, a splined plastic insert to engage the cup, Torx bolts secure the insert, and a steel ring supports and stiffens the insert during use.

Acros A-BB T1 External Bottom Bracket Tool review
The tool is lined up and pressed onto the Drive-side cup by hand, then tightened with a 24mm wrench or hex socket.
Acros A-BB T1 External Bottom Bracket Tool review
The centering shaft helps align the non-drive side cup to prevent cross-threading.

Function

To ensure a good snug fit, the tool was lined up and pressed onto the cup by hand. After testing a variety of cups, it could be concluded that the insert fit square cup profiles noticeably better than rounder ones. Signs of wear could be seen along the plastic spline after two dozen installs, but it did not slip or bind on the typical Shimano cup profile during repeated heavy loading. This tool worked best with a socket and long arm ratchet, and as expected the torx bolts initially settled in and needed to be re-tightened. The insert was easy to swap out by removing the bolts and pushing a T-10 key through two holes drilled in the body. Twisting the steel support ring off by hand was no problem once my greasy blue nitrile gloves were off.

The centering shaft helped to align the drive with the non-drive side cup and keep the tool in place, but unlike some spanner tools you must remove the cranks to check if your cups are tight.

Acros A-BB T1 External Bottom Bracket Tool review
The centering shaft keeps the tool in place when the turning force is applied further out-board.


Pinkbike's Take
bigquotesThese days you can find all kinds of aftermarket high-end replaceable steel, ceramic, coated, or 'super' bearings that potentially keep on spinning and may need to be removed and re-installed in multiple bike frames. For those trying to avoid the long term damage sometimes caused by hard steel tools, the Acros A-BB T1 External Bottom Bracket Tool delivers on its promise to protect the surfaces and finish of your new bearing cups.This tool will not prevent inexperienced users from cross threading their bottom bracket shell, but it was easy to use and turning engagement with most cup profiles was secure. It got the job done and appears to be a good tool for new builds and high-end repairs in the bike shop, or for home use. Purchase of a spare insert is recommended for the long term. - Chris Johannes




Author Info:
ChrisJohannes avatar

Member since Nov 20, 2014
17 articles

96 Comments
  • 104 7
 honestly, this tool are for tools who cant use tools.....
  • 22 5
 really? I thought it was a tool for tools who don't like using tools for tools.
  • 27 4
 You've clearly never done 100 000 000 bb's in a day at a shop.
  • 53 0
 Yo dawg, we heard you like tools, so we added a tool to your tool so you can fix while you fix.
  • 42 3
 why would you do 100 000 000 bb's in a day unless you are from China or Taiwan.
  • 6 0
 well while were at it why not just use an impact wrench if your that lazy !
  • 7 3
 @tinfoil if a mechanic of mine cross threaded an external bb and then couldn't fix it, he'd be fired before I bought a tool like this. I can understand maybe an old square taper or other internal, but no excuse for crossing up an external.
  • 6 10
flag SithBike (Feb 11, 2015 at 12:39) (Below Threshold)
 That tool should be in every bike mechanics shop. It should especially be used by those mechanics that don't think they need one. Because it is usually those mechanics that won't be able to tell if it is installed wrong.
  • 12 1
 @bubbrubb and everyone else, you're right. I know of exactly nobody who has cross threaded an external bb. That said, I like seeing improvements to tools and well made tools of all sorts. It's the principal. Plus, if you have a choice, why choose the tool that makes things harder? I'm not saying everyone, or anyone, needs to rush out and buy the thing, just that I like improvements.

I could pound nails with a rock, but I certainly don't feel like a pussy doing it with a hammer. Or a nail gun.
  • 3 1
 What @SithBike and @tinfoil said. That is all.
  • 2 1
 That tool does rank right up there with a "wheel bolt alignment tool" for lining-up the lug holes on your car or truck -- basically, it's a functional gimmick for complete nerds or people who just need a boost in confidence when trying new things outside their comfort zone. For that last point, this tool is well done and respectable.

Let's see PB do a review on a tool more like this ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8gfeZEPjK0 ) to replace the actual bearings instead (plus an in-depth Tech topic on choosing bearings). I swear I once saw a Race Face video years ago of a tool that would do all 3: remove the plastic cap without cracking it, remove the old bearing, and press-in the new bearing, all with hand force only, no wrenches required. I swear I didn't imagine it, but I can't find it now!!
  • 1 0
 love the new take on an old tool but the execution is terrible. no plastic please. i see this tool helping in stabilizing the wrench when trying to remove a ridiculous tight factory bb. that being the case you need steel not plastic. no need for something to help you install bb since that is not an issue with external bb
  • 47 1
 I love it when people try to make better tools for the parts we have instead of trying to sell new standards we don't need. This is awesome.
  • 63 2
 Just about 10 years late too.... If you haven't figured out how to install a bottom bracket cup without crossthreading it, you'll probably still screw it up.
  • 14 1
 Very true, but idiot proof tools for shop staff are fantastic. You can cross thread anything when you do it for the millionth time in a day.
  • 40 0
 Of course you can use the crank spindle to achieve alignment without buying a new tool, and always start threading with your hand so you can feel any issues before they begin.
  • 13 0
 Very nicely made tool, but I agree with taletotell. The best way to safely install a bottom bracket cup or any bolt is to thread it in as far as you can by hand. You can usually feel any problems that way. Thankfully some manufacturers are still using threaded bottom brackets too.
  • 42 0
 When installing any threaded component, including the lid on a jam jar, I turn the component/lid in the off direction until I feel or hear the 'click' of the beginning of each thread passing each other. At that point, you can start tightening. You can never cross thread using this method (unless the axes are WAY out of alignment).
  • 12 1
 I agree, with @iamamodel. Start threading your component, opposite the way it is supposed to, until you can feel the threads drop in. This works 10/10 times on brand new components, and 9/10 time when shits worn out. Just be careful...
  • 11 0
 Spent a good few minutes looking at the picture on the homepage trying to work out how the hell that device pressed in bottom brackets thinking that surely nobody would actually make such a device for screwing in threaded BB's.... I was so so wrong...
  • 7 0
 Not worth the money if you know how to do it. And you should know how if you do it.
  • 5 0
 This is dumb. Tighten by hand then use a torque wrench. I worked as a wrench in a shop for many years on all kinds of threaded BB's and never had an issue. Next topic...
  • 5 0
 "If you have it, you don't need it. If you need it, you don't have it."

-Bruce
  • 2 0
 It's nice, but my current (Pedro's) tool has a socket wrench fitting built in, I'm never going to go back to something that requires me to use a wrench on a tool, if there's a better option. It seems like it would be a basic tenant of tool design: "a human being has two hands, therefore, the tools & parts to do a job should always break down into 2 pieces at most, whenever possible, at each step in the process." Even if you don't have to hold the tool with your hand due the the alignment rod, you're still going to have to ensure the socket doesn't slip off the tool, as well as the tool slipping off the BB cup indents. If the tool & ratchet are attached to each other, you just have to worry about the cup to tool interface slipping.

Not to mention how much sturdier a socket fitting is than a 6 sided bolt one. They're designed to tighter tolerances(sockets have to fit around mangled bolt heads, so they have some slop built in) & have a far deeper engagement than this appears to have.

Really, I never understood the bike tool industries' obsession with not using a ratchet handle, like it's some obscure tool no-one has.
  • 2 0
 Oh, & then there's the problem that adding in a socket to the stack of tools could affect your torque accuracy.
  • 1 0
 waste of money imo, if you cant fit a bb cup without cross threading it then you should take it to a shop, also that tool will NOT realign the cups anyway. only recutting the threads concentrically to each other on a machine will do that
  • 15 2
 Stupid stupid stupid. If you need this tool to install your bb w/o crossthreading it, you should be bringing your bike to your LBS for service.
  • 2 0
 Only time Ive had problems installing a BB was on a new frame that had paint in the tread. With a bit of cleaning with a wire brush, I soon had it fitted.
In my mind, this will only really help inexperienced bike owners fit something that they prob will not even attempt themselves and put into an LBS to do anyway!! And will they even want to spend this money on something that costs more than the BB itself??
  • 15 1
 wow, that solves problems I never had.... amazing!
  • 14 0
 saved my marriage and brought my dog back. I guess it pretty much did away with the need for country music too come to think of it. Worth every penny.
  • 3 0
 @taletotell you get my vote for comment of the day!
  • 1 0
 Mine aswell.
  • 10 0
 I like how they use a $75 bb installer with the shittiest wratchet on planet. If your gonna bother with this tool you mind as well bust out a torque wrench too. There is a torque spec right on the cup....
  • 21 0
 Is it just me or everyone else's shoulder ligaments that make a noise at around 40Nm?
  • 8 0
 my left knee swells up,,, that's how I do it
  • 4 0
 stomping on the wratchet works for me
  • 22 0
 I have my 40lb kid hang 1 ft out on the tool.
  • 2 0
 lol that ratchet.
  • 13 0
 I tighten down as hard as i can until a lil fart escapes from me backside....poot...there's 40Nm.
  • 5 0
 Over 40 Nm no telling what might escape
  • 6 0
 Damn. I like the idea, but why not just take your time and be careful when you install your BB like you should. Plus, missing knuckle skin just adds character.
  • 4 0
 And chicks dig skinned knucks.
  • 4 0
 It's pretty hard to crossthread bottom brackets if you have any mechanical common sense, however, this tool could prove incredibly useful for frames that the rear pivot interferes with standard BB tools' handle, since it steps the handle out a bit further.
  • 3 0
 Surely it will only help to avoid cross threading once one of the cups is in correctly? So there is still a chance you'll mess the first one up. Nice idea, but I have never struggled to get a BB cup in/out with the cheaper wrench-style tools.
  • 4 0
 Cool! But a decent, practical, not overly expensive tool to remove and install internal, press fit bottom brackets would be nice too...
  • 2 0
 If they can make an optional kit that fits the Rotor/Raceface spline then I will take 2 for my shop! Building a lot of Ibis and Transition type bikes lately that still value the strength, rigidity and reliability of a non-press fit BB.
  • 1 0
 Looks like a race face bb in the picks no?
  • 1 0
 Race Face Cinch BB requires RF BSA30 cup tool or with BSA30 standard tools from Rotor, Zipp, and Enduro.
  • 1 0
 don't forget Hope BSA30 which is different to rest
  • 2 0
 www.straitlinecomponents.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78&Itemid=472

these are $40.. maybe not quite as fancy but metal so doesnt wear out Wink
  • 1 0
 Am I the only one that seems to wonder why the weight of a tool is listed in a review. Are the weight weenies now concerned about the weight of their tool box? This also seems a bit excessive considering starting a BB by hand should keep you from cross threading it anyway. The only cool feature I can see is the plastic cup that would not damage the finish. If you are concerned about that kind of thing.
  • 1 0
 If you were able to get the crank off to even get access to the bottom bracket then were able to un-thread the bottom bracket, knowing which way each side threads, then you should be able to thread it right back on.
  • 1 0
 Its not listed on the website yet but was looking to see if they make different sized splined plastic inserts as I don't think this will fit my XTR bb because the cups are smaller.
  • 1 0
 Shimano TL-FC24 adapter Y13009240
  • 1 0
 Thankyou!, so they do make other sized inserts...good to know.

Smile
  • 2 0
 Hey pb, when are you going to ged rid of the "How many MTB vacations/trips do you take a year on average?" survey ....it's getting on my tits !!!!
  • 1 0
 Hahah me too, this^
  • 3 0
 um,i use the non drive crank arm to do the same thing!
  • 3 0
 $75 USD: the difference to pay attention, or pay this tool :-)
  • 1 0
 between, sorry...
  • 2 0
 If you can't use a £5 cyclo BB tool then stay the f*ck away from your bike and let someone else do the job !!
  • 2 0
 $75 and you still need the socket on your wrench?
Over engineering at it's finest.
  • 1 0
 Acros = Quality. I ran their headset and BB trouble free for three years. Highly recommend.
  • 2 0
 why so many standard BB?? hollowtech II was perfect!!!
  • 4 2
 pwah! for the peasants who dont have a press fit BB
  • 2 0
 I thought press fit was the new standard, I'm confused.
  • 1 0
 Shame on the cost of this, if it was reasonable compared to other tools, it would be ok. Nice idea though.
  • 1 0
 Gimme dat thing and I will crossthread it. Wanna bet?
  • 2 0
 By putting the cups in on the wrong side, for example?
  • 1 0
 I don't get it. This seem more complex than using a torque wrench.
  • 2 4
 The most surprising BB tool i have found. And some of you out there may have one and not even know...In fact its so old school, it may not even crossed the minds of most. It is called a Pipe Wrench.
  • 4 0
 get the right tool on there and you'll find out the pipe wrench didn't do the job all the way. Also it deforms the race slightly.
  • 2 0
 Have had no problem so far...I use a rag to prevent scuffs, scratches, dings and dents. There is always another " right " tool. And yes a pipe wrench is not for every BB job.
  • 2 0
 I won't name names, but I have spoken with reps and Pros that use pipe wrenches on their BBs from time to time. Mostly because not all BBs are the same size/shape. If you utilize a jam jar popper pad, it helps to keep the finish.
  • 3 0
 True that, but every mechanic should probably have one kicking around in the bottom of their toolbox, purely for cups that have a stripped tool interface.
  • 2 0
 Absolutely! That's good thinking.
  • 3 0
 I should clarify that my "True that" was in response to @taletotell.

You should use a proper tool, & torque to spec whenever possible. But I'm not gonna lie about having used a pipe wrench on a BB before I had the proper tool & for stripped ones, though this was all back in the internal bearing days(ISIS or square taper) days, when you didn't have to worry about crushing the bearings.
  • 1 1
 I suppose if you are running ceramic bearings @groghunter. Being worried about crushing the bearings, should be a concern.

I am curious to know how much force you use if you have crushed modern bearings.

And to all of you...Keep in mind, not everyone can afford to BUY an new tool...And might have a pipe wrench in their possession....Oh and have you ever had to wait up to a month for a tool. Just so you can go for a ride. And could not simply go and buy it. Because the nearest store in which to purchase the "proper" tool. Is over 1300KM away.
  • 1 2
 Shame all the industry whores, go out of their way to exclude. Its attitudes like these that PREVENT people from joining the sport. Not everyone can afford a 5000$ + bike. But thanks to PB you can build a reasonable facsimile for less than 3000$...

So why not help, with Bike Hacks.
.....Rather than the same ol'addage that actually caused the whole 5000-10,000$, stupidity craze. Make it expensive and exclusionary and your company will make Crap loads of money.
  • 1 2
 That is what biking had really come too...Just another profit margin....
  • 3 0
 When worrying about crushing bearings, it is not necessarily the balls bearings you need to worry about. If you deform the race even a little by putting the wrong pressure on the cups then the bearings won't last long.
I have used vice grips to install cups. I know it can be done without breaking anything, it just isn't the best way to go about the job. I can fix all sorts of stuff with the wrong tools, but I don't expect to do it as well or as quickly.
I have a $10 tool to install cups. It works nicely and it doesn't risk breaking anything. Looks like this: img254.imageshack.us/img254/5409/18230061642.jpg

Everyone does what they gotta in a pinch (use a rock to bash your derailleur back into line ever?), but don't upgrade anything else on your bike until you have the tools to work on it.
  • 2 0
 Shhh @taletotell his axe isn't sharp enough yet, let him grind on it some more.

Never mind the fact that a BB tool can be had for far less than actual BB cups, & if you took a bike with the BB shell threaded in, but just needing tightening, to a bike shop, they'd probably do it for free.

All I know is, if I lived someplace where I couldn't easily get new parts, I'd make sure I had the tools to work on something properly, instead of risking destroying something, & being out of a bike because I'd been a hack. Cause that would truly piss me off.
  • 2 0
 LMAO! Haters, Hatein, Haters...Is it not fun Wink Wink
  • 2 1
 There's a tool I need said no mechanic ever
  • 3 5
 The ultimate contradiction, PB forcing press fit down our throats, then reviews a tool for a component we shouldn't own......
  • 14 1
 Mate, press fit is 2.376004% stiffer in the junction which is the difference between #Enduro and #SoEnduro and if your press fit bb fails then it's time for a new bike because look! More Gears and Slightly Wider Wheels!
  • 2 0
 /\ GENUS!!!!3333331!!111
  • 7 0
 In what way is pinkbike forcing press fit down our throats?
  • 1 0
 Smoke. Smoke. Smoke...Are you Smoking yet?
  • 3 0
 @The-Dirt-Farmer, Pinkbike is not forcing press fit BB's down our throats, but many carbon frame manufacturers are. It is not because they work better, but because it makes it easier for them to manufacture that area of their frames, allowing them to pass the savings on to us, the consumer. Wait... all carbon frames cost $3000 and up, regardless of less expensive manufacturing techniques performed in Asia?? Where are the savings? with most carbon rims being made in taiwan or china, why are every brand charging dividends more than Light-Bicycle? If you have a santa cruz, you could still use this tool. But the last fram I had a threaded BB on, never needed a single adjustment in four years of riding.
  • 1 0
 @ChampionP what BB did you use that lasted 4 years? I need one of those in my life. All though your profile says you live in utah so that magical BB might not last so long here in wet gritty scotland
  • 1 0
 Um yeah, Utah's really dry most of the time. It was a standard Sram GXP that came with my X0 cranks. Anything sealed will last here and many cone and cup style bearings last just as well. I didn't always live in Ut, I used to live in Chelveston, UK in the late 70's-early 80's. That was just riding around the neighborhood on a 16-inch Raleigh. I began racing BMX in 82 in Louisiana and I think it may have rained more there than in Britain. It was also hot and humid and we rode hard whether it was muddy, raining or any weather beside tornadoes, hail and tropical thunderstorms. We repacked our bearings several times a year. Once we had sealed bearing BB for our flight cranks and Profiles it became less of an issue. We would overhaul our bearings once a year and the grease hadn't really broke down much, but we were taught to take pride in a smooth running bike. Sealed bearing hubs were pretty durable too. We had a sharpened pick much like what a dentist would use. we would pry both rubber seals off the cartridge bearings, soak in Gasoline or kerosene or acetone or anything to get the old grease off, dry thoroughly and repack with grease and put the seals back.
  • 1 0
 Also, we never used pressure washers or car washes. We used a garden hose to get the majority of mud clumps off. Then we would dry with an old towel or rag. working it in between frame tubes and cranks, spokes etc. I think headsets needed replacing the most back then. We would lube our chains a LOT. They would rust very quickly in Louisiana. We would over-lube it then wipe it off as much as possible. Same as in England. always lubing the chain, then wiping it as clean as possible. Most BB's these days are what I called sealed bearing, i think some people may call it cartridge bearing. The cartridge bearings I had on all my skateboards had metal shields and couldn't be repacked. These turned to shite after a few weeks or one time through a puddle! If there is a rubber shield, avoid the high pressure hose and repack before it's too late. Or repack before you think it needs it. These types of maintenance get easy after repetition. Good Luck! hope I'm not just telling you a bunch of advice you already knew. Cheers!
  • 2 0
 @robaussie99 you mist an opportunity to say they were press fitting them into our throats
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