Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul-searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand-picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Clipless Shoes For Flat Pedals?
Question: @Nahguavkire asks in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: So I ride flats but I always notice there seems to be a better selection of clipless flat style shoes available, and they always seem to be better value than bike specific flats. Is there a cleat blank available that would convert a pair of Shimano AM5 to a flat shoe for example?
 | I've had the same thoughts about the limited number of flat pedal shoe options out there compared to the ever-increasing number of clipless compatible models. However, I wouldn't recommend trying to convert a pair of clipless shoes for flat pedal use. The rubber on shoes designed for clipless pedals usually isn't as sticky as what you'd find on a dedicated flat pedal shoe, and the soles tend to be stiffer as well, which will limit the amount your foot can contour to the pedal, and reduce the amount of grip. Even though there's currently no flat pedal version of the AM5, Shimano does offer the AM7, the flat pedal version of their AM9 downhill shoe. It's a little more expensive, but it does have a Vibram rubber sole and a lace cover that comes in handy for those wet weather rides. - Mike Kazimer |
It may look like a fancy skate shoe, but Shimano's AM5 is designed for use with clipless pedals.
Will a Longer Stem Make My Bike Climb Better?
Question: @aspski wrote in the All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: I wanted to get your thoughts on longer vs. shorter stems. My rig right now has a short stem and I am contemplating going longer. The one reason I would think of going longer is to move my weight forward more for climbing. Would this help or hinder climbing, descending, etc?
| Contrary to the mountain bike industry's overwhelming adherence to the belief that a 50-millimeter stem is perfect for every bike and every riding style, it is often advantageous to run a longer stem to eliminate the wiggle from the steering while you are climbing and, as you mentioned, make some room to move your body forward to obtain a more ergonomically correct climbing position over the bike. Also, the evolution of slacker head tube angles has exaggerated that tendency, which is why many bike makers are slipping 60-millimeter stems on trailbikes. As far as descending goes, adding one or two centimeters to your stem will feel odd at first, but if your bike has a sufficiently long top tube and a head tube angle slacker than 68 degrees, then you should be able to adapt to your new position and be dropping the same downhills you were beforehand. Before anyone starts crying foul. Nino Schurter - one of the most decorated XC racers of all time - can rip DH runs and air jumps with an extended seatpost and a 90-millimeter zero-rise stem. If that doesn't help. Steve Peat and Greg Minnaar - a couple of guys who know a little more about DH than Nino - used 70-millimeter stems on their Santa Cruz V10s during the peak of their careers. There are some guidelines to follow. Short stems work best with wider handlebars because a wide-spread hand position forces the rider to stay forward over the bike and weight the front wheel. Longer stems work best with slightly shorter handlebar widths, because that compensates for the stem slowing down steering inputs, and also because a narrower hand position allows the rider move farther back for descending. Finally, if you own a bike with the new rider-forward geometry - a steep seat angle paired with an elongated top tube, you should keep your short stem and deal with it. A longer stem for that configuration would make all phases of riding more difficult. - RC |
Commencal's Meta V4 Race used a 60-millimeter stem to boost climbing and acceleration without compromising its descending.
180mm DH Bikes?
Question: Pinkbike user @whey-dh asked this question in the Downhill Forum: Hey guys. I have been looking for an 180mm DH bike but haven't been too successful. I've found the Banshee Darkside, but I'm not overly keen on how the frame looks. Any other 180mm DH bikes out there?
| The once common 180mm downhill bike has become the lesser spotted in recent years. Largely due to an increase in enduro type bikes whose numbers seem to increase every year, getting closer regarding suspension and geometry to full-on downhill bikes. But a long travel enduro bike isn't the same deal as a heavier, more robust and harder-hitting short travel DH sled. The Darkside you suggested is a renowned beast, and you can read the full review from 2014 by Mike Kazimer. The Scott Voltage I reviewed last year is a good deal and flips with a chip between 170mm and 190mm. The Specialized Enduro Evo was a park rider's favorite, as well as a short-track downhill race machine, but seems to be no more, although the bikes in the new Enduro range now have 170mm of travel. Commencal have a 190mm travel Supreme V3 Park that looks to be a good price from the Andorran direct sales brand. Finally, the Intense Uzzi promises, on paper, to be the best combination of bike park brute with 190mm of travel but with a suitable seat position for getting back to the top. - Paul Aston |
The Scott Voltage is a good option, choose between 170mm or 190mm travel and a bunch of adjuments to tune in your perfect geometry.
Commencal's 190mm travel Supreme Park is currently on offer at 2699 euros.
The Enduro Evo is no more, but there are a few used options out there. Hopefully, Specialized will reincarnate these beauties soon.
Perhaps the Intense Uzzi's 190mm travel, downhill geometry, and a suitable seat position might be what you're after?
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
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129 Comments
...Take the Commencal
That said it's gonna be a while yet before I go out an get a new ride, so who know's whats going to come out?
Thanks Paul and guys here, had a ton of suggestions so worth checking them all out!
Like i said.. too bad you don't like it's looks.
"Steve Peat and Greg Minnaar - a couple of guys who know a little more about DH than Nino - used 70-millimeter stems on their Santa Cruz V10s during the peak of their careers."
I know Steve retired, but Greg is still in the peak of this career. WTF, he came in 2nd LAST WEEK. He's the professor, he's tenured!
I imagine that had something to do with their chosen stem length.
Hope this helps
Care to clarify the limits here? And yes, I'm aware of the possibility of going out & ride no matter what, but it would be nice to get this kind of fit info without having to buy & install 4 different stems.
Love that you guys tackle this question, just looking for a starting point.
RC is a dinosaur he says all sorts of stupid shit like that.
But he designed that nishiki alien with the high chainstays so he gets an automatic pass.
Shoes like the Giro Jacket and Teva Links are a bit stiffer than skate shoes, but not as stiff as 5.10s. Does anyone know others in this category? Seems like a happy medium.
They don't look the best, but most riding shoes look a bit special. I bought a pair of 5.10 Karvers and I didn't really like them. Shoes are a very personal thing though, I'm sure lots of people hate the Shimano.
transition 500, you can run it both with 180 or 200, i've run both when i had mine and it's very good in both
www.polebicycles.com/bicycles/downhill/evolink-176-fr-27-5/?v=f0aa03aaca95
nsbikes.com/soda-evo-coil,1417,pl.htm
Or was it a Saison Park?
so yeah meag comfy and grippy but on a crash tumbling down a landing you just wish to have other shoes haha ...
I'm guessing you're also the guy that has a whole new outfit every ski season, but spends most of their time in at the lodge? More powder for me, thanks!
Even though those blue/orange bike shoes Pinkbike posted last week may work fine and be good bike shoes, I honestly would not feel comfortable wearing those abominations and it would make me feel self-conscious and would ruin my day just as much as wearing a pair of uncomfortable shoes that gave me a blister.
someone who wears much less grippy shoes in the name of fashion, on the other hand, is not just trying not to look stupid, they are actively letting their fashion choices preclude them from using the best gear possible
The main reason I don't ride 5.10s is because I ride clipped in. That they're ugly is entirely secondary, but doesn't help their cause in terms of me ever wanting to buy a pair.
Truth is, if you're riding clipless, there are a whole host of shoes that are better than 5.10s. Clipless isn't really what they do. They have what, eight flat models to one clipless? So there are other clipless shoes out there that not only perform better, but look better, too. Hence it is possible to be "doing it right" AND not wear clown shoes.
I think the real slave to fashion here is you. See, the bros here on Pinkbike told you 5.10s are the shoes to wear if you're hardcore. And you so desperately want to fit the hardcore image, you just follow the herd without questioning. You probably hate Specialized and Boost, too.
Better be careful, man. Sometimes the herd is heading over the cliff.
Wow, we both wasted a lot of time here. thanks for that.
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