|I have experience with a number of one-by combinations using un-clutched Shimano and SRAM rear derailleurs, and have had good luck keeping the chains on using narrow-wide chainrings from 34 to 30 teeth without the benefit of a chainguide. I used the shortest chain length I could to keep as much chain tension in the system as possible, and I made that measurement by shifting to the largest cog, removing the air from the shock and then running the suspension to the end of its travel to ensure that there was enough take-up in the derailleur cage to compensate for chain growth.|
Using booster, 40 and 42-tooth cogs and ten-speed cassettes with Shimano XT, XTR, and SRAM X9 mech's, I rarely tossed a chain with three conversions on the Pivot Mach 5, and never on the Specialized FSR 29er comp that I often used for product tests. (my guess is that I was lucky, or that the Comp had longer chainstays.) The brand of narrow-wide sprockets did not seem to matter much.
That said: I'd suggest adding a small top guide as a security measure. You'll know right away if you are going to need one. During testing, if I lost the chain once a day, I'd add a top guide. Once a week, however, I would consider acceptable. On a side note, many people are riding clutchless without knowing it. The clutch tension of many early SRAM type-2 clutch derailleurs fades to almost nothing and many of those bikes are cranking out the miles without any chain issues today. Check your mech's. - RC
|It won't be long before the bike park season is in full swing here in the Northern Hemisphere, bringing with it a sudden increase in the number of riders experiencing what I call 'Whistler Claw' or 'A-Line Hand.' It's an ailment that can affect anyone, but it's more typically experienced by visitors who aren't familiar with the high speeds and long runs found in the bike park, and by the end of the first day end up with hands that are locked into the shape of the letter C.|
The culprit is the death grip that you mentioned - a too-tight grasp prevents the blood in you hands and arms from circulating properly, and before you know it you need to have a friend help you unwrap your fingers from your grips. Loosening your grip and riding with a more relaxed grasp on your handlebar is the easiest way to help alleviate this, but that's often easier said than done.
I'd start by evaluating your brake lever position. In your typical riding position, you should be able to easily reach the levers without any awkward bending of your wrist. A 45-degree angle is a good starting point, and you can adjust from there to suit your preference - if you typically ride steeper trails you may want the levers positioned even higher.
The point where your index finger contacts the lever is important too - when you're braking, you should be pulling from the slight curve that's found on the outer portion of the lever blade. That's where you'll have the most leverage, and thus, be able to apply the most power with the least amount of effort. Don't be afraid to slide your levers more inboard on the handlebar, away from the edges of your grips - that will help make it easier to find the ideal position.
Trying different grips can also help, but that comes down to personal preference rather than being directly related to hand size. If you're running really thick grips, maybe try something thinner, or vice versa. Finally, work on staying relaxed and breathing during those long runs. Pay attention to how tightly you're holding on, and when the trail allows, loosen your grip to allow the blood in your arms and hands to keep circulating unimpeded. Eventually, you'll find that bouts of hand and arm pump become much less common. - Mike Kazimer
Cool FeaturesSubmit a Story to Pinkbike
RSSPinkbike RSS Feed