Ask Pinkbike: Tubeless Setup, Cleat Trouble, Wide Tires

 Removing the valve core is the best trick to seat a tubeless tire. If you have to use a hand pump Joe Blow fat bike pump works excellent to seat tubeless tires. No compressor needed.

 @properp: I found out that my pump, the Bontrager Flash Charger, prefers the cores in. Cores have to be clean of course.

 @garrettstories: mines opposite

 @garrettstories: I have no explanation of why that would be. The only thing a valve core does other than hold the air in the tire is restrict the flow when trying to seat a bead. If it works for you roll with it.

 @properp: I know. It doesn't make sense. the only thing I can guess is that the head fits both presta and schreader, and that it needs the valve core head in there to activate something to allow air to pass through more quickly.

 Dish soap has been my savior!

 Just place a full round of string around the center of the tire and tight it a little, pull the beads by hand against the rim beads and start pump with anything (floor pump, hand pump, CO2 cartridge..) and as soon start to inflate remove the string and keep pumping, is so easy and fast in this way that you don't need remove the valve core neither.

 A small air compressor is worth it.

 Ghetto / Split Tube works a treat every time. You need strong hand or metal levers with some combos tho.

A little dishwashing liquid helps too.

Also with Ghetto you can use schrader valves and remove the cores and get lots of air in.

Also using a Stans injector rather than trying to pour the sealant in while seating the tyre.

 I like to use soapy water in a spray bottle. I get the tire on the rim but before pumping I hit the bead with soapy water which seems to help lubricate and allow the tire to slide into the rim bed more easily. Plus, the soap bubbles help find possible leaks which could be problematic later. Hope that helps!

 @fabriciofracchia: I don't know why you got negged because the string around the center is actually one of the best tips. I used an old tube to strap around the outside of the tire. My problem tire suddenly inflated very easy with the hand pump.

 @jeansebille: I second you on that.

 @garrettstories: now that makes sense. The pump is the issue possibly. My Joe Blow fat bike pump works better than my reservoir pump. I got mine off eBay for $30 .I don't own a fat bike but I do like the pump. On the negative side the pump weighs as much as a baby elephant.

 @properp: I agree. Remove the valve core, set the bead (you can use a CO2 inflator if your floor pump doesn't do it), then put your sealant in through the valve stem, replace the valve core, inflate.

 You can also buy a $2 Presta to Schrader adapter that will fit onto your presta tubeless valves (valve core has to be in). Go to a gas station and use their compressed air to seat your new tubeless tires (find one that is free). Once seated, use a track pump to get the right PSI.

I started doing this... worth the 5 minute drive to have a 100% guaranteed setup every time.

 @gramboh: nothing is free in the land of the free.

 @jeansebille: I re-seated 2.5 DH casing Specialized Butchers after a year of being flat using a soapy mix of shampoo and water. Well. And a $30 1gallon air compressor with 100 PSI in the tank. Pulled the presta vale core, Tossed 1.5 oz of Stans in, pop pop. Back in the bead.

FWIW I was camping in the parking lot. Didn't bring dish soap.

 @fabriciofracchia: this trick has never ever worked for me

 @wiscobiker: agreed but I have use lighter fluid and a match to beat a tire. Works like a champ every time. As long as you don't blow the tire completely off the rim.

 @properp: I have seen that one for seating off road and truck tires, never wanted to risk blowing a rim bead off trying it on a bike tire though

 It can definitely wear you down beading a new tyre..

 I guess we learn when things go wrong, and I've had so much problems I think I can sum up most of the useful tricks.

Use all of them if necessary.

1. install tape (many layers as suggested will help cf article)
2. pre shape the tire : use a tube for a few hours/days at 60psi
3. keep the wheel in the air all the time if possible cf wppplayer18
4. leave one bead seated in the rim, divides all troubles by 2
5. install valve. Preferably with removable core. Ghetto valves (from and old tube, with 2-4x tube layers in small patches to put the valve through, creates the seal inside the rim) can work better than specific tubeless valves
6. dish soaped water on the tire/rim interface to help the tire slide outwards
7. pour the milk in. More messy to do it before seating, but it helps. I've heard 60ml, shop said 100-150ml for DH.. your choice
8. pull the tire outwards, so it's not at the center of the rim which is deeper
9. extreme solution : wrap something around the tire, try to create a seal even though the tire doesn't have a normal shape at this stage cf fabriciofracchia
10. lots of air and fast. Joe blow mountain, airshot, bontrager charger, compressor, ghetto airshot www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtmatxJG_zg

General tips :
- shrader/presta adapter allows to use a standard gas station compressor
- use friends, if you have any
- don't start this at 11pm with your wife waiting for you to come to bed

I laugh a bit (nervous depressive laugh) when I read "Just .. and.., no compressor needed" or ".. .., works everytime". Sometimes it is just very difficult, so it's good to know what additionnal tricks can help.
FYI my biggest battle :
Enemies : MM 2.35x27.5 bike park cheap wire bead 1,5kg version on a dented E1900 (25mm wide).
Allies : 2 bike shop mechanics, me and a friend, joe's no flat, compressor and strap. Used basically 2, 4, 5, 7, 9 + compressor. This is when my friend invented the strap technique, the mechanics hadn't thought of it and it worked.

Never underestimate the intensity of the coming challenge. It's a war. Blood may be shed, tears may flow, muscles may cramp, and numerous cries will echo.
Good luck.

 @Uuno: All good tips but I'm pretty sure your buddy didn't invent the strap around the tire trick. That's been around longer then tubeless mtb tires by a long shot. Been using that to seat car tires for over 20yrs. Personally I don't use tubeless but I would do this with a little soapy water to help seal the beads till it pops into place. Same technique used by countless automotive tire techs.

 @properp: If your not removing the valve cores your blowing it!

 @PAmtbiker: Best method around.

 I seem to be very lucky or have a flawless combo - Stans Flow. Schwalbe Tires.

I just put the tire on as usual, make sure the bead isn't sat right down on the inner section of the rim bed (It usually isn't anyway) and then 8-10 sharp strokes on the pump using the standard valve with the core left in, and it seats first time every time, then just keep pumping to finish. Way less hassle than a installing a new tube.

 Most tire/rim combos i've used recently and in the past (i already once gave up and went for tubes several years ago, now on my second tubeless era) have worked with minimal hassle when trying to seat new tires. BUT changing tires and and trying to re-seat one when it's been used for a few months before, then the pain really kicks in. I guess the beads stretch ever so slightly that it doesn't create a good initial seal anymore after some hard riding.
Just almost had a mental breakdown with a WTB Vigilante that seated before using only a track pump. Now had to seat the other side with a tube AND use a strap around the tire to get air in, while using airshot...

 Or get (a) Maxxis tires and (b) use a damn compressor the first time you mount them. From all the hullabaloo on the forums, I thought getting tubeless tires to seat was going to be a major pain. Then I had to do it myself ones, and that Maxxis popped right into place with a bit of help from the compressor, so I started doing it myself. And that worked like a charm each and every time for my bike, my wife's bike, and my kids' bikes (all running different flavors of Maxxis tires on a number of different rims). Then I did one for a buddy with a Nobby Nic on a rim same as mine - and it was a freaking pain in the ass. Tried another Nobby Nic on his other wheel (same rim), and that worked just fine. Got curious, so we switched the tires between the rims - and the problem was that one tire. Have since heard the same things from friends over and over - never any real issues with Maxxis; Schwalbe sometimes work, sometimes not, on the same rim (so there must be some serious variances/tolerances). And everyone I've talked to who's tried Contis has told me that they'd prefer an unmedicated root canal over having to go through that experience again.

 @g-42: Had the same issues with the Nic's. Aside from being a pain to mount, they are a whit tire so I won't be going back. Also, you can get. Decent 3-6 gallon compressor from any hardware store. Good for mounting tubeless tires, and also putting air in your car tires.

 @oneplanka: I came here to post exactly this. The shape of the tire determines how easily it's going to seat. Magic Mary's out of the box are insanely stiff, I've tried (because I'm stubborn) with every set to seat them the first time, out of the box, with a compressor, and it never works. Throw a tube in there @ 60 psi overnight, pops right on.

@g-42: Tolerances shouldn't play a factor unless it's way out. Comes down to the initial shape of the tire when trying to seat. Odd shapes, the bead inward or outward, all create gaps to the rim where air can escape, that not even a compressor can overcome

 My technique is similar. Tube in for a couple hours, pop one bead off and tube out, tubeless valve in,soapy water, airshot and job done.

 @g-42: Second this. I have non- tubeless Maxxis DHFs on non- tubeless rims and they always seat up with no problems. I don't even have to use soapy water. Maxxis 4 lyfe!

 @cunning-linguist: my thoughts exactly!
Great name as well mate! Awesome group

 @g-42: I'll second that bit about mounting Continental tires and a root canal. I've done both (although my dentist kindly used anaesthetic) and I was ready to kill anyone involved in making those tires.

I'll also agree that Maxxis seem to seat very reliably and that Schwalbe can be hit and miss (They still make my favourite tires though). Specialized are another brand that has always sealed up very easily for me, probably even better than Maxxis, but I just don't like their tires as much.

 @g-42: disagree with the Conti statement, I've been running Conti tyres in various flavours (albeit only the premium Protection/ Protection Apex versions) on all my bikes for eight years now and I have never had a problem getting them to fit or seat when inflated.

I open my new tyres and let them sit in in their 'rolling' shape, sometimes with a tube inside (if they seemed to not want to unfold) for at least 24 hours, and probably more like 48 hrs, before installing them.

 @amrskipro: Never mounted one of them myself, that was purely based on what others have told me about their experiences. That said - I've never had trouble getting a Maxxis to seat on the first try - fresh out of the package, with no need for any sort of 24h wait period, or inner tube prep, etc. Just put it on the rim with no sealant, pop it with the compressor without a valve care, then add sealant, then add valve core, then inflate, spin tire to distribute sealant, done. No fuss, no sealant spraying all over the place. So perhaps if you have to do that special dance to get them into their rolling shape, the Contis might not be all that low-drama in comparison?

 Except if you're using a compressor, you can usually get the tire to pop on just fine with a sustained burst of air before using any sealant, just to see if everything fits right.

 @cunning-linguist: tubeless is a game changer for riding hard. I had to run as much as 35-40psi with tubes not to pinch flat and now running 20-25 psi tubeless.
More grip and don't have to fix snakebites every ride. And I mean every ride without fail.
Yes tubeless tyres get cuts but I can fix them trailside with worms in less time than swapping a tube.
Tubes are dead for serious gnarly riding

 @cunning-linguist:
It's the pinch flats! If I stuck 20 psi in a tube it would pinch first rock I hit. You can slam tubeless tyres up against the rim all day long and not puncture. Yes I still puncture but only 5 or 6 times a year instead of everytime I went out. It spoiled my rides and the people I was with.

 @cunning-linguist: So no thorns in the UK then? Good to know.

 Agree, packing tape of any kind will do a better job of sealing. You don't do yourself any favors adding material to the face of the rim.

 @cunning-linguist: but a tube weighs much more than sealant. A 29/2.4" Conti tube is 228g, according to website of Art's Cyclery. That's 228 vs. 60g of sealant = 168g. That's six ounces of the most pleasure-sapping kind of bicycle weight there is. Combine that with ubiquitous cactus spines and sharp-edged stones here in the desert Southwest. Then combine that with pinch flatting. Yes it's true that using lower pressures with a tubeless setup increases burping when one is getting after it, but one quickly learns those limits. I’m mechanically average, at best, and have had little trouble with assorted Maxxis on Stan’s Arch, Flow EX, Nox Farlow, and Spank Oozy. Based only on the weight difference, I’ve no idea how this remains unintelligible to you.

 @ceecee: Correct me if I'm wrong, but tubeless is also easier to pedal because a tube is extra unsprung weight.

 www.ebay.ca/itm/3M-483-Film-Tape-Polyethylene-Blue-1-In-x-36-Yd-/381935853983?hash=item58ed26a19f:g:rlwAAOSwTuJYtgBs

$40 CDN a roll, no thanks

www.uline.ca/BL_6087/3M-483-Polyethylene-Film-Tape?pricode=DC282&AdKeyword=%2B3m%20%2B483%20%2Btape&AdMatchtype=b&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpIaas4LJ1QIVXFgNCh20ngIPEAAYASAAEgL7FfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

72 rolls in Canada for $62, but who needs that much.

 @yeti-monster: what tires/rim you run? I pinch flat the TIRE tubeless at 35 psi.

 @ Legbacon: that's still that price per roll! Take that and multiply by 72.

 @VFreehd: on dt spline 1501 @25mm with specialized butchers 2bliss griptron. The purgatorys sidewalls don't last too well. Never had an issue with magic Marys either.

 @ceecee: Don't forget rim strips if you need them for your rims or if your adding tape to the rim to tighten up the beads. From what I've seen and read it's a small decrease in weight but it's in the best place to loose it. Personally I use tubes on my bike set at 28-32psi and can't remember the last time I got a flat. Probably just jinxed myself, lol.

 @Legbacon: yeah $40 is rough. Amazon for $22 is worth it, lasts forever. I just like that it doesnt absorb the sealant and decay, cuts a bit of the bulk/weight... but I ride flat country in Minnesota and shaving a bit of weight for the same effect as gorilla tape is worth it to me.

 @cunning-linguist: It ain't about the weight though I use thorn resistant tubes and could use less weight. It ain't about pressures I can run 18 front 28 rear with tubes. It's about rebound characteristics. Tubes create a conflicting rebound rate to the tyre. Tubeless makes for more predictable grip for cornering better chatter reduction for charging and less bouncing for climbing traction. They are more comfortable for long rides as well. You'll notice it way more on a hard tail or rigid.

 @htyler7: Tubes are heavier both sprung and unsprung? I can't tell if you're teasing. I like what @choppertank3e has to say about rebound characteristics, even if he does use thorn-resistant tubes!

 I've got an Airshot tubeless inflator. Great investment if you run tubeless.

 @cunning-linguist: how many flats have you had in the past 3 years ?

 @tremeer023: I bought an Airshot too, after really struggling with getting some of my tyres to seal. It is a great bit of kit. I also find that using a washing up liquid and water mix helps. And resting the wheel on the hub, so the tyre is not on the ground. Much prefer running tubeless these days.

 @cunning-linguist: I dunno, when considering my last two years with one puncture vs. the two years before that with one puncture a month for two years, I think it's easy to see which is the shitty option...

 Exactly what I was always doing till I bought Topeak JoeBlow™ Booster Floor Pump. Never had problems with tubeless since. It is expensive, yes, but worth the money.

 @cunning-linguist: hi, over what time period/cumulative altitude drop have you used a tubeless system at appropriate pressures and with appropriate tyres for the terrain and for your fat or skinny ass (let's assume you shred like a mutherfocker)?

 @tremeer023: Spesh Blast not bad for around the same cost, haven't tried the airshot but it's a beautiful shade of blue that justifies the purchase on its own.

 @cunning-linguist: thank you.

 @mrgonzo: my pleasure.

 @cunning-linguist: bad luck then. Yes you need to stick a tube in if you flat, but I've only flatted 3 times since I converted about 5 years ago (although it was pretty spectacular when it happened, with the white stuff spraying everywhere). Burped just once when experimenting with low pressures. I used to be a once per ride flatter and needed to put 48 psi in the back to bring that figure down. Went tubeless and after teething issues have never looked back. I recently rented a Sanction in Finale and put ten holes in a tube in one go. I counted them in the van on the way back up and patched every one of the mofos... Ain't going back, especially given the weight of tubes, in the most important area to keep lightweight on a bike that gets pedalled up a lot.

 @BenPea: i dont even carry a tube anymore , most of the time the sealant gets it if not i carry tubeless plugs

 @savmeister: gotta get me some of those, especially if you can plug a hole without taking the tyre off. If I go above he one flat per year ratio, I'll invest in some :-)

 @savmeister: I have had no flats in 3 yrs running tubes. 85% of my riding is DJ with 32psi. Cased many jumps. The rest of time is spent on trails littered with limestone and root gardens.

 @MikeGruhler: me too, suppose horses for courses. If it works and you're happy with it either way, just ride it.

 @cunning-linguist: lols

 @cunning-linguist: saying that since tubes are how you save a flatted tubeless setup, so why not start with it in the first place is about as sensical as saying that derailleurs ahould be made with zip ties instead of bolts!

 @Rubberelli: how does that work out you mong?

A tube was invented for just that use and if you NEED one to start with that says a lot.

A zip tie isn't designed to hold derailleur's on, therefore it will not work as well as a tube in a tyre!!!!!!! Plick

 @cunning-linguist: were tubes also designed to pinch flat once a ride and slow you down going uphill? (300g for a dh tube that minimises pinch risks doesn't add up to a viable solution) Apparently you don't even need a tube to fix a flatted tubeless setup, except in extreme cases. Read people's posts with an open mind, absorb the information and take responsibility for your failure to make the most of what is a step forward in tyre tech. We're all mongs once in a while, we just need to be aware of it.

 @cunning-linguist: perhaps if you originally justified tubes by giving us the 'sometimes new advancements are not batter than the original way" reasoning, rather than the "tubes are how you you emergency repair a flatted tubeless setup so you might as well use them to start with" logic, you might have at least convinced one or two people! But like most people experienced with tubeless, I see tubes like I see that can of tire repair foam in my car trunk.

 @Rubberelli: you're right they have moved on somewhat and for the better. Once I have similar performance to my car tyres, then I'll probably go full on at it, but the moment a new bike I have gets a flat with tubeless, I've tucked a tube in and never had issues since. So I guess for backwards and odd me, it is the future! But then I've always been pretty niche!!!!! :-)

 Spank stiffy 26s converted to tubeless. Gorilla tape and two to three pumps on a Joe Blow Fat Bike low pressure pump. Pop pop job done. Don't forget to add the magic fairy dust (glitter)

 Yeah but fuck me are they hard to get off. Helped a guy change a tube at Whistler holy Helen was that a fight to get it off and on.

 @Jokesterwild: totally agree. A few Spritz of Windex always helps.

 dt swiss rim tape works better , i used to put gorila tape(i had the 471 and have the other two now) and when time comes to take the tire off the tape comes with it.
the dt swiss tape is a lot more expensive for a roll, but it last forever and if you have to change a tire away from home you don't make a mess or have to put a tube in

as for the rims you are correct ,best rims i have ever had, i regret a bit mounting a 481 on the front instead of the 511 for my aggressive riding (proper dent) but on this 30 mm rims i have never had a tire burp, and the 511 and 471 are tough as hell, i rode down an ancient roman road on an enduro stage with a flat and it is still really good

 Gorilla Tape leaves a lot of mess and Stan's tape doesn't stick well to my Spank rims' bumpy profile so I went with one layer of electrical tape followed by one layer of Gorilla Tape (trimmed to the same width as the electrical tape) last time. So far so good, and it'll remove cleanly when the time comes. I might try one layer of electrical tape and one layer of Stan's next time.

 @tiagomano: I haven't used the DT tape yet but Gorilla works better for me than Stans. With Gorilla I can use tyre levers as I please, with Stans I have to be careful not to damage it when taking the tyre off.

 @WAKIdesigns: the stans one is not good , the DT is my favorite so far, is the same as the schwalbe one but on the DT you can get the 32mm wide one that is the one for the 511/481

 @tiagomno: I'll try next time. My next rims will be either EX511 or Flow Mk3. I bought ZTR Arch Mk3 for my wives bike before summer and they are really really nice.Easy to work with when lacing, truing, setting up tyres. Nice nice nice.

 I never want to be able to tell one of these "SPDs made me look like a f*ckwit at the traffic light" stories.

 @BenPea: I'm used to jamming my foot into Mallets with reckless abandon, even if you miss you're still quite secure on the pedal - easy stuff.

However, on one of my first road rides using Shimano SPD road pedals, when the lights changed I went for the sprint and went to jam my foot into the pedal. I hit the none clip side, my foot slipped off at great speed and I went flying sideways into the very old man beside me, knocking him off his bike and into the middle of the road.
I was the very definition of the "SPDs made me look like a f*ckwit at the traffic light" guy...

 @NickB01: exhibit A

 @BenPea: first time using SPDs I rode another bike to the shops on flats. Picked up the new bike and shoes and rode two bikes back to make sure I didn't fall down at the traffic lights by balancing on the other bike. As I approached my first set of lights I watched in horror as an fat frat kid played frogger with the traffic and ran straight at me full sprint eyes on the cars. He smashed straight onto me from the side landing on top of me and both bikes. When he got off I couldn't unclip and must have looked like an epileptic trying to free myself from the clips and tangled mess of bikes.

 @choppertank3e: Christ, it's worse than I thought. Anybody else?

 @BenPea: I usually unclip my right foot, press the crosswalk button, then turn my handlebars 90 degrees and chill waiting for the walk sign. One day I was a little too upright and just reaching for my camelbak hose shifted my weight enough for a slow timber to the left at a crowded intersection

 @choppertank3e:
After months trying to convince my Partner she should switch to clipless. She got some SPD's and headed out for
her preferred trail.
Whilst climbing she came around a bend to find the trail blocked by Walkers shoulder to shoulder across the trail.
The inevitable happened, as she wasn't expecting to stop.....Down she went.
The Elderly walkers rushed to her aid, and tried to pull the bike off her, but she was still clipped in.
So to save her knees and ankles from being torn apart she screams.
"Don't touch me I've got SPD's"
Going by the look of shock and horror on there rapidly retreating faces, it suddenly occurred to her,
they think i said STD's
LOL long and hard.

 @XCAussie: Brilliant. Is there already a forum thread for this? It could be a long one.

 It's a little heavy and leaves a lot of residue. It does work well though. I've used PTFE tape the past few builds with success.

 So messy though when its time to take it off. Hello GoofOff... The pressure creates dents in the tape that allows the air to leak out when mounting a new tire. If you can swing it, Caffe Latex rim strips last long, don't pinch from tire levers, never take the dent shape and seal side to side on the rim. So much awesomeness. And LATEX is awesome.

 All Bike Tool kits should include Gorilla Tape.

 @Orangesicle: And here I thought you would be an orange sealant guy...

 @railin: HAHAHA!
And I so am! Stuff works great. never thought about the ol' orangesicle.
Sadly stolen here in LA.... Intense SS with 170mm fork. Quite advanced for the day.

 @SoDiezl350: you mean your standard plumbing seal thread tape? I can't imagine that being very durable.

 @mtnbykr05: Sorry brain fart. I meant to write Polypropylene Strapping Tape.

www.amazon.com/TPS-01-Light-Tensilized-Polypropylene-Strapping/dp/B004MSKJSO

 #flatpedalswinmedals

 I also have the Hellcat Pros, and Mallets. With the shims, and the set screws on the pedals set to minimal protrusion, the system works great.

 Same combo, same problem

 Same issues here. Gave up. Put cleats back in old shoes and filled the cleat bed of my brand new Hellcat Pros with shoe goo. Now I have an excellent pair of nearly waterproof flat pedal shoes with nice lace retention straps....seriously.

 Looking to get a pair, but hate getting stuck. Just to clarify, did you not use the two plastic spacers provided by Crank Brothers?

 I had the same issue with mallet E's and 5.10 vxi shoes. I loved the feel of the CB pedals but just couldn't release reliably despite adding 2 shims which made walking a bitch. In this case I think it's a case of a wide shoe and not enough room between the shoe and the crank. Ended up switching back to SPD's which don't feel as good but I'm able to unclip.

 Nope. Have no problems getting tyres mounted on my wtb frequency rims. Just used a track pump.

 @AtticusGrinch: Double down casing?

 @nicolai12: used to run continental trail kings and now maxxis minion or high roller 2. Always used the exo casing.

 I got a WTB i25 rear rim, and the tyre (Michelin Wild Rockr) sits incredibly tight on it. Meaning very difficult to work on, but you can pump it up tubeless with a minipump first try.

 basically came here to say this!!

 I know this from experience sadly. At least it will never burp!

 Yes, this. I broke all of my tire levers trying to fix a flat, so I took it to a shop. I watched them break three more levers to take off ONE TIRE. Crazy.

 With the right tire and rim combo, you really shouldn't be burping too much. I feel where a large issue comes from people trying to run too light of tires. They are afraid the excess weight will slow them down. I personally hate the feel of tire roll, so I run SG/DD casings on the front, and DH on the rear. Weight is def higher, but I haven't burped much since. Also, any rim that doesn't feature a UST, BST, TCS, or the like, will be more prone to tire roll and burping. Can be remedied with an extra layer of tape sometimes, but nothing replaces a proper design.

 That's because they don't know what they are doing. I've not had a flat or a burp in almost 2 years. 200lb rider that runs as low as 20psi front and 22psi rear to 24/26 depending on where I'm riding and the mood I'm in. Flow EX rims and Maxxis (Ardent, Ikon, DHF and DHR2) or Specialized (Purgatory, Butcher and Slaughter) tires. 29er. Hardtail. Rocky and rooty New England.

 I'd reckon I replace as many tires running tubeless as I did running tubes. When you find the right tire combo for your riding pref, flats will be a thing of the past. I add sealant 2-3 times with each tire before it's worn out. A 32oz bottle lasts usually 2 tire cycles F+R. Stans, Whisky, WTB valves never fail me as long as you don't over tighten the presta nut. Wtb, Stans, and Easton all have economically priced alloy rims that have a bead locking design. I did use gorilla tape for a while but found it to be messy and that it leaks through the spoke holes; which can cause problems with alloy nipples and rims. If you replace your rims frequently this won't be an issue. I now run 2 layers of Stans tape or similar, starting 3" past the rim seam and finishing 3" on the opposite side of the seam, to create a 6" overlap. This helps lock the tire in more, but also makes the tape less prone to damage. Pick your rim width and tires based off of how much damage you inflict and tire roll preference. Run a wide tread design around >30mm rims. Maxxis has the best reputation, I also like WTB and $chwalbe for tires. Don't be afraid to go with heavy duty or DH tires on the pedal bike, the weight isn't that much more (especially coming from tubes) for a significantly better ride and peace of mind. Been wrenching for 12 years, tubeless for 7.

 Also, I now run Orange Seal. Charger pumps are the sh!t, as are cheap compressors or air tanks. Remove your valve core and use a standard schrader chuck if you're having trouble seating it. Soapy water helps to slow air loss by way of an artificial seal, but I use it last resort. Also remember to clean your valves, usually each tire change. Putting your sealant through the valves, with the valves at 3 or 9 o'clock, is the cleanest route.

 @yzedf: 20-22 psi???? Do you walk next to the bike or ride the thing?

 @BenPea: 2.3 GRID tires on a XC bike for the rocky stuff and 2.35/2.4 EXO on the softer smoother stuff. Us XC hardtail/rigid guys have to take the smoother lines. That wheel set and bike has 2,000 miles or so on it. So yeah, ride it.

 In the desert Southwest you must run tubeless with adequate sealant. Or put a sealant in the tubes. Same with SoCal. Goathead thorns appear like minefields. Goathead thorns mock tubes. At the low pressures necessary to get at least some traction (less than 25ish psi) tubes will snakebike flat on the rocks. Too high of pressure and the tires will wash out on the bb sized sand over hard pack. The desert is extremely hard on tires. 2.8" fat tires are the future out here. The 2.3 category of tires cannot compete with the traction and comfort of the 2.8 tires in this desert terrain.

 @yzedf: Ah yes, smoother lines, I remember those...

 Never had any problems installing my Kenda tires, usually they pop right in (with a floor pump) and seal immediately. Tried on various rims, worked every time.

 @zimtsticker: I never had a problem either lit fist time everytime!

 Unless I'm missing something, bottoming the fork shouldn't change the distance between the crown and the tire. I never go full enduro though...

 @VtVolk: The crown that the steer tube is attached to can come down on the tire. The distance between the arch and the tire doesn't change under full bottom.

 @WolfStoneD: have you ever had one that didn't clear? I'd imagine fork manufactures would design it that the crown wouldn't come lower than the highest point in the arch. Now I can imagine with a dual crown if you run it too low, but a modern fork should accommodate as large as a tire you can run in the arch, for bottom out. Idk I've never tested that.

 @mtnbykr05: Personally no, I was just clearing up the statement @Brauck made that at least 3 people don't get.

I usually only run a 2.3-2.4 tire though I'm not into the 2.8 stuff

 @mtnbykr05: I remember seeing it on older Marz stuff when running tires that barely fit width and crown came down onto tire if you pulled the top caps and pushed the fork to "bottom out" position. Like Gazzalodi and Junior T was it???

 Make sure you get that extended warranty, son! Cop a new one every two years for $20.

 Why? Joe blow never let me down.

 This ^

 Gorilla Tape has a clear repair tape now that is the best I've used. I've used them all. A single layer as well. It comes 38mm wide which is perfect for my rims. Super stretchy and sticky. But does not break down like the Gorilla Duct Tape typically does when using Stan's sealant. Gorilla Duct Tape glue is a bitch to remove on carbon fiber rims after you remove the tape.

 38mm? For tubeless fatbikes?