Ask Pinkbike: 1x11 Options, Fork Bumper Placement, and Scott Gambler vs. Voltage

Jan 6, 2015
by Pinkbike Staff  
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Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.

Which Drivetrain?

Question: Pinkbike user Peterglover asked this question in the all-mountain, enduro and cross-country forum: I'm thinking of changing the dual chain ring Deore drivetrain on my Santa Cruz to a 1 x 11 setup and I'm not sure which one works best. I've been looking in the classifieds, but I've also just seen that Shimano has their own 11-speed drivetrain out now. Which group performs the best?

bigquotesThe answer to your question is going to depend on what you mean when you say ''best'', with gearing range, backwards compatibility, and cost being some of the factors that you're going to have to consider. I've spent time on all of SRAM's 11-speed drivetrains, and you are not going to be disappointed in the shifting performance of any of them. If you're not one to get caught up with counting grams, it's hard to beat SRAM's least expensive (although still relatively pricey compared to a traditional drivetrain) 11-speed X1 group. It shifts just as well as XX1, and features most of the same technology. I've also been putting in some big miles on Shimano's latest 11-speed XTR group, and it shifts just as quickly and has been as trouble-free as any of the SRAM offerings. That said, Shimano's new 2x XTR crank features a proprietary 94/64mm bolt circle diameter that's offset from the norm, meaning you can't bolt on any of the aftermarket narrow/wide chain rings that are currently out there, and Shimano's own single ring solution isn't available quite yet. This is obviously going to be an issue if you're dead set on running a single ring crank, although it's easy enough to sub in a different crankset. Also, their 11-speed cassette sports a 11 - 40 tooth range, which isn't quite as wide as SRAM's 10 - 42 spread. Shimano's cassette doesn't require a special freehub, though, meaning that it'll fit on any rear wheel that already has a 10-speed cassette on it.

An entire 11-speed drivetrain doesn't come cheap, and I think that I would personally lean towards saving some coin by going with one of the many conversion kits out there that allow you to fit a 40 or 42 tooth cog to the 10-speed cassette that you already own. I know that isn't quite what you asked about, but it's hard to ignore this option. OneUp Components offers everything you'd need to widen your gear range and lose the front derailleur, including both cogs, a narrow/wide chain ring, and the RAD cage for your Deore derailleur. Grand total? Under $200 USD! Shifting is 95% as good as anything from Shimano or SRAM, but your gearing range won't be quite as wide as what the latter offers.
- Mike Levy

Ibis Mojo HD3 review test Photo by Paris Gore

Single ring drivetrains are here to stay, with more and more riders ditching the front derailleur in favour or a wider range cassette and one chain ring.

Fork Bumpers

Question: Pinkbike user Nikola99 asked this question in the Downhill Forum: Hi there, I couldn't find any information on the Internet so I am asking here. How shall I put my stanchion bumpers? I heard that they can dent my frame if they aren't mounted properly. Are they OK right now or I must lift them a little bit up so they can hit the top tube in case of crash?

bigquotesIf there are no recommendations on the manufacturer's website or the bike's manual (who reads instructions anyways?) then you want to position the fork bumper on the widest part of the frame, which is usually the downtube; this will give you the most leeway in case of a crash and compressing the bumper into the frame before the stanchion strikes metal. If there is a gusset or weld in the region, letting the bumper strike here will be more resistant to dents than a standard, round tube. You also want to make sure you avoid your cables with the bumper, as crushing them could affect your shifting, or much worse your braking. You will need to do something serious or stupid to split a brake hose nowadays but it is a possibility and could lead to brake failure. Luckily for us, many manufacturers are catching on and phasing out these ugly, unreliable rubber bumpers that often move at an inconvenient time, integrating fork bumpers into the frame, and sometimes even incorporating cable retention and protection as well. - Paul Aston

YT Tues DH 2.0 Limited Edition 2011 HeadTube

Getting your fork bumpers in the wrong place could lead to a void warranty, damaged cables or even an unsightly dent in your prized possession.

Scott Gambler vs. Voltage

Question: Pinkbike user sorenwrang asked this question in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: I am thinking about buying either a Scott Gambler 720 or a Scott Voltage FR 720. The two bikes are similar in many ways. 27.5" wheels, coil fork and coil shock and similar frame geometry. The only major difference, that I can see, is the rear shock setup (linkage type). So how could I expect that the two bikes will feel and behave, compared to each other? Do you think the rear shock setup will make them feel very different?

bigquotes Although there are a few similarities between the Gambler and the Voltage, out on the trail they have noticably different personalities. With a longer wheelbase, 210mm of travel vs. the Voltage's 170 or 190mm, and a slacker head angle, the Gambler shines on burly, straight down the fall line types of trails, similar to what you'd find on the most technical stops of the World Cup. It takes an aggressive riding style to take advantage of the Gambler's capabilities, and at slower speeds the bike can feel like a handful. The Floating Linkage rear suspension design helps keep the bike glued to the ground, which is an asset for the extremely rough terrain it's designed for, but at the cost of requiring more effort to get airborne. Not that it can't jump - Nico Vink's monster hucks on the FEST series circuit should be evidence enough - it's just that it takes more rider input to lift those wheels off the ground.

This year our inclusion of the Voltage on our list of nominees for DH Bike of the Year raised some eyebrows, but the fact is, for most riders, the Voltage will be an easier bike to ride, and that translates to more fun on the trail. A slightly steeper head angle, shorter wheelbase, and a little less travel gives it a more playful personality, one that's suited for a wider range of terrain than the Gambler. Choosing which bike to purchase will depend on your intentions. Will your riding mainly take place in bike parks, perhaps with a few local DH races thrown into the mix? Choose the Voltage. Do you have expert (or better) bike handling skills, and constantly seek out the steepest, gnarliest tracks around? The Gambler will be the way to go. - Mike Kazimer

Scott Gambler 700 2015
Scott Voltage 2015
They're made by the same company, and have the same wheel size, but on the trail the Gambler and the Voltage are quite different.

Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.


  • 53 7
 I still run 2x10, because I need the granny ring for techy climbs. Stuff that people walk up, I ride up, or at least try to, and that requires a granny.
  • 14 2
 Yup- I love the idea of 1x11, but I like to ride up some very steep trails. I don't want to give up my ultra low gearing.
  • 33 4
 where I live no granny no ride
  • 95 30
  • 19 5
 I bet if you tried 1x you'd find that you could ride at least 95% of what you ride with your granny. 10-42 with a 30t cassette is near the same gearing as 26x36, and not that much tougher than 24x36. If you still think you need lower, Race Face spiderless cranks go down to 26t which gives you basically the same gear as a 22x36.
  • 15 3
 Excuse me... 10-42 cassette with a 30t chainring.
  • 11 0
 Problem with that is that you then top out with a 30t-10t combo for your top gear, which is the same gearing as a 33t-11t. With a double ring setup up front you get the same or lower low gear, and then you go right the way up to 42-11 in top. Thats a whole load of extra gears. Life isn't all about climbing vertical walls.
  • 3 0
 I was a pretty weak climber but I got accustomed to a 32/42 pretty quick, and can make it up a bunch of steep, techy climbs. I may even get a bigger chain ring
  • 38 2
 sheeeeeeeeiiiiiiiiitttt....I still use a triple, homies. Good if ya ride to the rides.
  • 6 5
 I run a 1x with a 30t up front and 11/36 in the back and climbing really isn't that much tougher, just enough to get a better workout. There's no excuse to push your bike with a 1x.
  • 5 6
 I ride on the road to get to my trails and power up all the climbs with my 34t and 11-36. Never had an issue, what doesn't kill you makes you faster. That being said, as an XC racer I am probably fitter than most, but I would never dream of going down to a 32t, if anything I'm moving up to a 36.
  • 9 1
 I need both the big ring and the small ring.
  • 4 28
flag downhillforduncanfund (Jan 6, 2015 at 8:29) (Below Threshold)
 ya'll are pussies, i ride a single speed trek with a 25t front and 11t rear all year long, and i can climb most anything
  • 14 0
 Any dirtjump takeoff right? Razz
  • 5 0
 36t on 11-36t. its a struggle on the steepest of climbs, nothing impossible though. planning to get a 42t soon and then lower the crank ring down to a 34t if and only if 36t is still a toughy.
  • 3 0
 My long travel 29er came with a 2x10 setup. I wanted to go 1x for simplicity, and because I wanted a bash guard. I thought I really needed more range than 1x10 could provide. As an experiment, I ended up getting a 26T Absolute Black NW ring that mounts to the 64BCD granny ring mount, with a nice bash guard on the 104BCD big ring mount. The 26T ring and 36T cog on the stock 11x36 cassette are basically one half gear harder than the old 24T granny with the 36, which works out OK (if I can't spin that anymore, I'd have been walking the old combo as well). And I'm finding that I don't really miss the upper end of the range - I rarely end up using the 11T cog even now. So if you're slow like me (or you just don't do a lot of high speed bombing on smooth trails - really the only need for those super high gears), then this is a great solution. No need to buy the 42T/16T cogs and rip your cassette apart.
  • 4 3
 I too was concerned with moving from a 2x to the 1x. But I love the single chain ring set-up. All my fire-road warrior friend's who ride doubles and triples always talk about how they "have gears for days" and mine tops out too easy. But as soon as the trail points down and gets rough, I fly past them every time. Who cares that my 32x11 tops out at 27mph (44.5kph)? If I'm riding faster than that I'm pumping the trail anyways. Climbing on 32x42 isn't an issue, just get stronger and/or lose weight.
  • 14 0
 A lot of this depends on where you ride...
  • 8 0
 Depends on the trail I guess. I know it seems like a rare situation, but lets say you live in the mountains and regularly ride a long descent on a fairly smooth trail, so you are cruising at 30mph ish for long periods. Its gonna get annoying if every time you hit a little uphill and want to put some cranks in to keep your speed up to the crest, you havent got the gear to do it. You will end up slowing down a few miles an hour then spinning your legs furiously, just trying to maintain speed. Like I say, i know its not an everyday kinda situation, but its one that does happen. Your gonna want a bigger gear. But then when you are climbing a steeper techier section, you are still gonna want a low gear. Thats something no 1x drivetrain can offer.
  • 1 0
 Converted my 3x10 (12-36) to a 1x10 (12-42). My new 30x42 first gear feels just a bit harder than my old 22x36 gear, but I lost just about half a kilo (that's 1 lb, 'merica), dumping two rings, bash guard, front derailleur, bolts, cable + housing & shifter. Takes a bit more to climb the steep stuff on Fromme, but it's all good.
  • 1 7
flag downhillforduncanfund (Jan 6, 2015 at 9:14) (Below Threshold)
 what do you mean by dirt jump takeoff?
  • 1 0
 i just made a build, 30t with 10, 12 and 24. down, park play, and climb.
  • 6 2
 pft i ride a fixie with 12t front and rear - no shuttle required. double black diamonds only
  • 3 1
 Anybody tried bolting a granny ring on and just shifting it manually at the bottom of a big ass climb? I'm thinking of doing this for a race I have coming up, kinda wondering how practical it is though.
  • 3 0
 If there is only one big ass climb in the entire race, then yeah I can kinda see the logic in that. Kinda...:p

As it happens I do own a crappy old bike I use for riding to the shops etc that has 2 front rings but no front mech. I can shift down from the big ring to the smaller one by pedalling with my left foot, while pushing the chain in with my right foot. Its not neat and its not pretty, but it works. Master that and then you'd only have to stop at the top of the climb to manually shift back into the big ring. You'll just have to hope like hell that your chain doesnt decide to fall inside the granny ring with no front mech to guide it, and cause you to spend the next 20 minutes trying to yank it out while swearing at your bike.

Tho if you are thinking of doing this, you may as well just bite the bullet and fit a front mech for the race...
  • 2 0
 Surely the time lost stopping to 'change' rings would negate any benefit? And oily hands!
  • 1 0
 I have a 1x10 (30t NarrowWide / 11-42) on my 160mm 29er and I mounted a 26t granny on the front for big climbing days. I have done a few 50K plus muliple day trips where its nice to have the option of saving the legs if your not out racing. I have seen guys using it for enduro racing as well, however you cant run the front guide if you want to do a manual change.
  • 2 0

You've inspired my next bar bike front derailleur.... : )
  • 1 0
 I've got a 1x10 setup 36t up front and 11-36 at the back. Even with a 32 up front I can't climb anything steeper than I can with a 36 on because I'm pretty rubbish at climbing. I don't mind walking up a bit of climb, It's the downhills I find fun.
  • 5 0
 2x9 all day
  • 1 1
 1x10, 34t & 11-36. I rode that setup up some pretty big hills in the Andes... (but admittedly shuttled the really big hills)
  • 3 0
 Since most 'older' stuff is on sale I decided to build a 1x10 setup after comparing prices for full SRAM 1x11. Oneup 42T ring added to an 11-36t cassette plus their RAD cage, with a RaceFace turbine 32t narrow wide setup set me back half of what I would have payed for SRAM. Compared the gearing on and found that I would only give a up a little bit of granny gear from my 2x10 ( 26/38T ), and about four mph on the top. I think it's going to work good, and make me a little stronger.
  • 6 0
 The hardest 5 percent is the most rewarding, on both the ups and downs. I still ride up hiking trails like people used to do before everything got smoothed out. Stairs and hiking switch backs still need a 24 x 36.
  • 1 0
 i am still completely satisfied with my 1x9 setup. 30t NW up front, 11-36 out back. yes 36, sunrace was nice enough to give us a 36t on their 9 speed.
  • 1 0
 I ride 1x in Whis, pemberton and squish an if u can climb our steep ups then you don't need a 2x
  • 4 0
 @fatenduro that's what i was thinking as well. if a single chainring setup up front gets you up "95% of what you ride with a granny," I'll need that other 5%. for some weeks, 5% is 5 miles.
  • 3 0
 PA mtbiker
my son rides 1x11 which I have riden and like a lot ,and like you say rides 95% of trails, with my 2x10 its 99.5%
  • 20 1
 Just buy an XT 1x10 set up for a fraction of the price. Get really nice shifting, better quality and the option to add an aftermarket cog to the cassette if you think you need it. With a 32 or 34 up front and 11-36 at back most people should find they have more than enough range. And if not then just stick on a larger cog at the back.
  • 15 4
XT Shifter
XT 11-36
Zee mech
Keep your cranks and stick a narrow wide chainring on them.
Stick a bigger cog on at the back if you need it.
You win, and no smelly SRAM on your bike.
Like Mike said, not what you asked but its a better option than 1x11.
  • 6 0
 Same here, but I added a Hope 40t Cog to climb the steepest ones. I just can't smash 250euros mechs..
  • 7 2
 go for the saint shifter over xt.
  • 3 0
 Can'tbeat 1x10 for the money
  • 3 0
 agreed, get the saint shifter. 2x upshifts, 4x down, vs the XT's 1x, 3x
  • 28 10
 The Sram X1 1x11 is the best drive train I have ever owned. Would never go back to a 2x set up again. Think shimano are very late on the band wagon with theirs unfortunately.
  • 7 2
 I know most of the people here are riding aggressive trails, and thus a 2x drivetrain is unacceptable due to chain retention. But surprisingly there is still a market for 2x drivetrains, as the wider gear range is more appealing to people whom do not have problems with dropping chains. Having owned XX1 though, it is absolutely fantastic!
  • 4 14
flag wipz07 (Jan 6, 2015 at 0:42) (Below Threshold)
 I don´t know what Shimano was thinking when they made their 1x11 XTR. Instead of getting closer to the performance of Sram we are just gonna use materials that are more expensive and a cassette that is fits a 2x11 ?????
  • 13 1
 Ummmm, SRAM's 11 speed cassette was developed for double-ring applications originally, not single ring, and far more folks ride with two chainrings than one ring.
  • 17 0
 Yes SRAM 1x11 has excellent performance and ratios - just as long as you can stomach paying at least 6 times more per replacement cassette than XT 1x10 (on UK pricing) - so, for example, for me that rules out running it through a British winter.
  • 6 0
 deeeight- Where did you hear that? Im not criticizing, I'm just genuinely curious. That must have been before they made the derailleur, as it is optimized for single ring shifting.
  • 7 0
 I ride Shimano 1×10 with the OneUp kit (SLX mech, XT cassette, 40t + 16t cogs, rad cage) and I can't fault it at all. I suspect the biggest compliment I can give is that I completely forget it's there - It Just Works™.
  • 7 0
 SRAM 1x11 is great for the gear range it offers and I have been quite happy with my XX1. The XD driver is also a nice approach to a freehub and small features like the cagelock are nice too.

Build quality and feel of the SRAM mech and shifters is plasticy and shonky by comparison to the solid, quality feel of XTR. XX1 is far from "the best drivetrain I've ever owned" from a quality standpoint.

XX1 cassette and chain with an XTR mech and shifter is the way forward (and it actually works together too!)
  • 2 0
 @wipz07 Weirdly, Shimano XTR M9000 cassette is $5 cheaper than Sram X1 cassette at CRC.
  • 2 0
 I'm with @OllyHodgson . A great set up. I have an absolute black narrow/wide chainring on the front too. It cost me roughly £250 In total. An absolute bargain in comparison.
  • 3 0
 @xyphota I don't know where deeeight (otherwise known as the Oracle) gets his information, yet here, in 2012, there was a piece on PB about the German facility where SRAM do alot of development. If you read it you'll see a lot about the rear mech development being for their XX2 by systems....
  • 2 16
flag downhillforduncanfund (Jan 6, 2015 at 6:43) (Below Threshold)
 hah, ya'll are all pussies. single speed trek with a 25t front and 11 in the rear lets me climb anything.
  • 20 3
 scott makes very nice ski poles...
  • 6 1
 i got a pair in black.. so stealth they are KILLER AS F*CK
  • 11 1
 The voltage is lighter, more nimble, the gambler is the weapon of choice for chasing down hipsters in smartcars!
  • 3 0
  • 2 0
 but in all seriousness, i like the voltage, the gambler is just a trail chatter munching machine.
  • 6 0
 I feel like shimano listened to consumers with their cassette. It may lack a bit on range, but it works with your current rear wheel. The proprietary crank is really an answer to an issue people are starting to have as they go 1x and can't get the ratio they want.
  • 3 1
 except chainring size is a component of frame design on suspension bikes, so going too small can affect suspension negatively.
  • 2 0
 It becomes one more issue to consider with a new frame: pedal feedback for small rings.
Frame designers have their work cut out for them.
  • 1 0
 Except if you design with XX1 in mind, you don't have to make that comprimise. Considering how many brands started ditching FD capability after XX1 was released, I don't think Shimano has the mindshare that they think they have.

I'm over the XD driver complaint personally. I'll buy one, & be happy, as soon as someone makes a 10sp cassette that fits it(or an 11 sp derailleur that costs under $80 US.)
  • 3 0
 Going pinion in five years when I am ready for a new frame. Time to get around the compromises for drivetrain options.
  • 2 0
 I'm almost ready to buy a frame this year, since you can get a Niccolai in the US now.
  • 1 0
 That is exactly what I was looking at. I plan to build up my new remedy and then in 5 years just buying the nicolai frame and swapping it over.
  • 2 0
 Yea, it's just too bad they only seem to be offering the top end Pinon in the US. I don't need it's massive gear range, nor it's smaller steps in between gears. From what I remember, the cheapest one still has more gear range than XX1, I'd be completely fine with that, & having it on tap in 9 increments instead of 11. Nor do I want to pay for the 18, as, if I remember right, the 9 is almost half the cost(& hey, it might even be lighter.)
  • 5 0
 Though I agree SRAM pricing can be high, Shimano need to wake up as they are losing the high end OEM market - it is almost completely SRAM dominated and what with the FOX/RF collaboration this will only get worse.

Wake up Shimano and give us 11-40T 10 speed SLX so we dont have to keep using these expanders.

Where i ride, were not running $200 cassettes and derailleurs, kiss goodbye to a paycheck when it goes wrong....
  • 4 0
 The brakes seem to be doing alright.

Sram > Fox don't seem to be immediate friends and Fox have collaborated with Shimano before, very possible they want to expand or continue that in the future.

Looking at the groups from several years ago and now, almost everything 'trickles down', given some time.
  • 1 0
 I can't believe shimano went with a smaller range than SRAM in both dorectiections. I would've hoped they'd adopt SRAMs XD driver body and put out a 10-40/42 11 speed or even a 10-40/42 10 speed!
  • 3 0
 I run an 11-36 XT cassette with hope T-REX 40T and a 16T oneup cog with an X01 crank fitted with a works components 30T direct mount chainring and the biggest gear for climbing is exactly the same ratio as a sram 11 speed set up with 10-42 cassette much cheaper !
  • 2 0
 Almost the same setup I am running, no way I am gettint into $200 cassettes....

FWIW i got a discount e-mail from Works a day ago and they have expander cogs up for sale at £36.00, they gave out discount code 'thankyou' in the email for 20% off so thats an expander for less than £30.00......

Im gonna bomb more than one from them and let my friends fight over them when they are here at that price!
  • 3 0
 I've had X01 for a year. I do NOT think it shifts that great. If you disagree, then just try Ultegra 11 speed - wow, that's benchmark shifting precision. With X01 there is a different feel and timing shifting up vs. down, shifting in the small cogs is great, but not the bigger cogs therefore sometimes shifts are shockingly fast and sometimes painfully slow, the pulleys (and cassette) get clogged with weeds and debris very easily, it's quite sensitive to a clean lubed chain. I place most of the blame on the deraileur which though expensive is not a quality piece. I love the concept, but there is absolutely no doubt that Shimano 10x shifts better. Shimano totally blew it with the 11-40 cassette - that's only good for a niche market - mountainbiking without mountains. The SRAM 10-42 is just enough spread.
Also note that XX1 shifters include shifter cable, but X01 doesn't, so actually XX1 is cheaper there. Oh, direct mount rings are awesome!
  • 1 0
 thats odd, i've ridden Saint drivetrains, X01 Drivetrains, and XX1 drivetrains, and i feel the X01 is much more crisp than the saint in shifting. and i had the Saint ghost shifting on me at points. the XX1 felt the same as X01,
  • 2 0
 I've been running a 32t Blackspire NW chainring on my XT crank with 11-36 cassette and just added the oneUp 42t on my sb66c. It's great for 90% of stuff I ride but I think I'll go back to 2x10 to have the broader range, esp on longer rides over 40km. I've got XT 2x10 on my 29er HT and it's perfect for me. I'm 6'4 110kg Clydesdale so that's relevant. I think if I were sub 90kg, 1x10 would be good for all but the steepest climbs - and all my riding mates are still running 3x10 anyway...
Guess I should cut back on the pizza...
  • 1 0
 Alright so I've never seen actual confirmation of this.

Can you run a SRAM 10-42 cassette with Shimano XTR derailleur and shifter? If *should* work (and very well might be the best 1x drivetrain you can create at the moment, if you like Shimano shifter ergonomics).
  • 1 0
 1 x 11 speed? I love my 1 x 9!
I kept an eye on what gearing I was using with my 3 x 9 drivetrain to see how I thought I'd go with X01/XX1 setup.
I was so close to buying it several times but couldn't really come to terms with the cost to buy it then the continuing cost of chains & cassettes.
I made a chart of the actual ratios I had and always used, the ones with a 10 - 42 cassette/ 32 & 34 ring and also with a 30 tooth ring with my 11 - 34 cassette. I was surprised at how close the bottom end of the 30 & 11 - 34 set up was to the 10 - 42 with either a 32 or 34 chainring. I would lose a little bit at the top end but in reality I probably wouldn't use the 10 tooth with the 32 or 34 much anyway.
End result is that I am now running a 30T Wolftooth N/W ring up front with my 11 - 34 SRAM 9 speed cassette, short cage non clutch rear derailleur and 10 speed chain. No chain device needed as I've never dropped my chain, it runs super smooth and quiet. I have a gearing spread that Im happy with and a replacement cost for chain and cassette that I am even more happy with. I cannot complain at all, I love this set up for so many reasons Smile
When I finally go to a 10 speed cassette I may go to a 32 tooth chainring which will give me about the same bottom end but a little bigger top end.
  • 1 0
 Never buy a voltage!!!
The frame always cracks. I have been riding whistler for the last 3 years and every season my voltage frame has cracked!
Got a 2015 720 and after 10- 15 days in the park it cracked at the head tube just like the old design.
There is an obvious flaw with the frame design/manufacture so just steer clear
  • 3 0
 ODI fork bumpers have a lock ring which helps keep them in place I found the oem ones on my fox 40's kept slipping in use
  • 2 1
 Raised eyebrows…

Ah yes that's because it states DH bike of the year, and clearly wasn't a DH bike.

Maybe Mitch's Enduro should have been on the list as it's seen actual race time??
  • 1 0
 It's funny how PB rips on the Shimano new '2x' for having a 94mm BCD, and actually used it as a deficit against the SRAM X1, when in fact the SRAM X1 AND XO1 that I've owned, BOTH have 94mm BCDs.
  • 1 0
 Yeah, but you can use a direct-mount chainring on X01 and most other SRAM cranks, so you retain the option to run something smaller than a 32T or a 30T chainring - items that Shimano, with its 36T or 40T cassette options is in need of. BTW, SRAM recently announced a full range of direct-mount chainrings.
  • 2 0
 If you ride like a grom buy a Voltage. If you ride like a man regulate on a Gambler.
  • 6 6
 "too steep where i ride for a 1x" all in your head (and feeble muscles). it's winter -- get your squat & deadlift on, fellas.
  • 19 1
 Is that the key for shredding in flat-ass connecticut?
  • 5 0
 ^ lol
  • 2 0
 Thanks for the fork bumpers answer. Often wondered, never asked...
  • 1 2
 the largest cog on any of my cassettes is 25.
2x10, 36/26 front with 11-25 cassette for my full sus and 2x9, 38/44 with 11-23 for my hardtail.
  • 5 0
 ...why do you own a full sus?, you clearly live nowhere near any hills as evidenced with your roadie straight blocks.
  • 1 0
 i live in the south of England which isn't hilly but I do travel to find mountains, Wales, Scotland, the Alps. I really cant see the need for anything less than 1:1 gearing and I'd rather 18 or 20 close ratio gears than 10 or 11 hugely spaced gears.
  • 3 2
 too steep where i ride for a 1x...
  • 1 1
 42, 30.
  • 3 0
 SRAM 1x11 can go as low as 2x10, with the right chainring (I think 28x42 is no higher than 24x36), but you lose some top end.
  • 2 1
 It's a Scott... I'll have neither
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