|You re-using or replacing those spokes is going to come down to one thing: your new rim's ERD. That acronym stands for 'effective rim diameter', which, just as it sounds, is the diameter of the rim measured across the ends of two spokes holes on opposite sides of the rim. If you want to get really technical, you could also minus the height of each nipple head at those two spoke holes. Wheel builders use a rim's ERD and the hub's flange heights to determine what length of spokes to use for the build - spokes that are too long could protrude above the nipple head, or their threads could bottom out in the nipple; or too short of spokes might not have enough thread engagement with the nipple. None of that really matters to you if you're paying for someone to build your new wheel, but the one fact that could either save or cost you money is that many rim models feature different ERDs. If your new rim's ERD is within a millimeter or two of your old one, you might get away with using the same spokes and saving some dough, but if it's larger or smaller by more than that you'll need new spokes as well. As for how long a wheel build takes, that will depend on the mechanic doing the job, although I think that most would get the job done in under an hour. However, don't forget that you're paying for their skill and knowledge, not just for an hour's worth of labour. For that reason, don't be surprised to see that your labour bill is a bit higher than you expected. - Mike Levy|
|If your friend gave your rear brake a successful bleed, then without knowing your specific brake model, there are only four obvious possibilities: The first is that you haven't dialed in your lever's reach adjust screw to give your lever blade full travel, but I'm guessing you've done that. The second option is the bite point adjustment that controls where in the lever's stroke that the master cylinder piston kicks in and starts squeezing the brake pads. This is either a dial near the base of the lever blade, or for many Avid and Formula levers, you turn the fitting where the hose exits the lever body. Third is simply moving the levers inboard so you can only reach the lever with one or two fingers and it will clear the rest - but you have probably tried those two tips as well - so the third option is most suspect. Because you describe the front brake feeling firm and the rear feeling soft, the culprit is most likely to be that your cheap hoses are ballooning. The longer, rear-brake hose eats up more fluid volume, so it feels more spongy when you squeeze the lever. You can get quality aftermarket hoses here, or purchase the top-line replacements from your original brand at a good bike store. I had that Issue with early Avid Elixir levers because the shape of the blade did not afford much room underneath. - RC|
SRAM's latest Guide brakes use stiff hoses to eliminate the ballooning that is the suspect in kawiMX216's case. The lever reach adjust dial is the knob on the front side of the lever blade, while the bite point, or engagement adjustment dial, is the wheel set into the master cylinder. Both dials are used to set the lever to engage the brake at a specific point in its stroke.
|My first guess would be that the angry rumbling is coming from your rear derailleur's pulley wheels, especially if it's still the stock derailleur. After 8 years of riding those teeth are likely worn down to little nubbins, and they probably aren't meshing well with the new chain. The rumbling may be worse in different gear combinations because of the angle of the chain on the pulley. I'd recommend replacing them and seeing if quells the rumbling. Another possible option could be your B-tension screw - make sure there's enough clearance between your upper pulley wheel and your cassette - if there's not, that could also cause a rumbling noise when the upper portion of the derailleur contacts the cassette. Finally, if none of this works, I'd check the rear hub bearings. Even though you said everything is spinning freely, a rumbling sound could be caused by a worn cartridge bearing with no lubricating grease remaining. - Mike Kazimer|
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