You re-using or replacing those spokes is going to come down to one thing: your new rim's ERD. That acronym stands for 'effective rim diameter', which, just as it sounds, is the diameter of the rim measured across the ends of two spokes holes on opposite sides of the rim. If you want to get really technical, you could also minus the height of each nipple head at those two spoke holes. Wheel builders use a rim's ERD and the hub's flange heights to determine what length of spokes to use for the build - spokes that are too long could protrude above the nipple head, or their threads could bottom out in the nipple; or too short of spokes might not have enough thread engagement with the nipple. None of that really matters to you if you're paying for someone to build your new wheel, but the one fact that could either save or cost you money is that many rim models feature different ERDs. If your new rim's ERD is within a millimeter or two of your old one, you might get away with using the same spokes and saving some dough, but if it's larger or smaller by more than that you'll need new spokes as well. As for how long a wheel build takes, that will depend on the mechanic doing the job, although I think that most would get the job done in under an hour. However, don't forget that you're paying for their skill and knowledge, not just for an hour's worth of labour. For that reason, don't be surprised to see that your labour bill is a bit higher than you expected. - Mike Levy |
If your friend gave your rear brake a successful bleed, then without knowing your specific brake model, there are only four obvious possibilities: The first is that you haven't dialed in your lever's reach adjust screw to give your lever blade full travel, but I'm guessing you've done that. The second option is the bite point adjustment that controls where in the lever's stroke that the master cylinder piston kicks in and starts squeezing the brake pads. This is either a dial near the base of the lever blade, or for many Avid and Formula levers, you turn the fitting where the hose exits the lever body. Third is simply moving the levers inboard so you can only reach the lever with one or two fingers and it will clear the rest - but you have probably tried those two tips as well - so the third option is most suspect. Because you describe the front brake feeling firm and the rear feeling soft, the culprit is most likely to be that your cheap hoses are ballooning. The longer, rear-brake hose eats up more fluid volume, so it feels more spongy when you squeeze the lever. You can get quality aftermarket hoses here, or purchase the top-line replacements from your original brand at a good bike store. I had that Issue with early Avid Elixir levers because the shape of the blade did not afford much room underneath. - RC |
SRAM's latest Guide brakes use stiff hoses to eliminate the ballooning that is the suspect in kawiMX216's case. The lever reach adjust dial is the knob on the front side of the lever blade, while the bite point, or engagement adjustment dial, is the wheel set into the master cylinder. Both dials are used to set the lever to engage the brake at a specific point in its stroke.
My first guess would be that the angry rumbling is coming from your rear derailleur's pulley wheels, especially if it's still the stock derailleur. After 8 years of riding those teeth are likely worn down to little nubbins, and they probably aren't meshing well with the new chain. The rumbling may be worse in different gear combinations because of the angle of the chain on the pulley. I'd recommend replacing them and seeing if quells the rumbling. Another possible option could be your B-tension screw - make sure there's enough clearance between your upper pulley wheel and your cassette - if there's not, that could also cause a rumbling noise when the upper portion of the derailleur contacts the cassette. Finally, if none of this works, I'd check the rear hub bearings. Even though you said everything is spinning freely, a rumbling sound could be caused by a worn cartridge bearing with no lubricating grease remaining. - Mike Kazimer |
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This means there is a good chance you can convert your old QR axle to 15mm TA for only the cost of the hub and your time.
Obviously you can't use either of the two methods described above.
Spokes are cheap and fresh one's always seem to build up nice. I keep 158, 260 and 262mm spokes on hand as these seem to be the lengths for many 26" hub rim combinations -you could do similar for 27.5 and 29. Spokes can be within 1mm length of the length calculated from ERD and hub dims. This is why I stock the home shop in 2mm increments. Buy them in bulk. If you buy from a shop make sure they will match the price you can get online. Many shops will charge as much as 3 times the price per spoke you can get online. This is fine if you are looking to replace a broken one. If you are buying a 70 spoke dt box or 50 ws that is just stupid.
I will reuse spokes if I just dent a rim beyond repair. If the rim is bent beyond truing I throw the spokes in the recycle bin. Note for speed, you can use cable cutters to cut all the spokes to save you from having to remove nips.
Best preventative measure is to keep your wheels true and balanced. I check new builds and new bikes after the first ride. After that, I will check every couple of weeks on DH bike and maybe as long as a month on trail bikes. Wheels go to the stand after any really rough ride too.
I always use fresh, quality spokes (Dt or Sapim) and new brass nipples as you are guaranteed to have the best chance of building a balanced, durable and strong wheel. I build with a Park spoke tension meter and Park wheel jig / dishing tool, as well as using my experience.
using old, used parts can lead to dubious results, and since double butted spokes are generally affordable, it makes sense to use fresh spokes to ensure the best outcome
Examples: Ghetto headset press, Headset removal tool, ghetto bearing removal and press tool, etc.
I've made a headset removal tool out of a copper pipe and it worked well.......
I've also found a 6-pack at the bike shop= free use of tools at the shop.
I recently put new bearings in my bottom bracket. Heated the bearing cups and was able to push the old bearings out by hand. Got the new bearings super cold, and with the cups still hot the bearings basically fell in. Let them sit together until the temps equal out and the bearings are locked in place.
I have access to a bearing heater and liquid nitrogen at work but you can do the same with a stove/oven and your freezer. A lot of grocery stores sell dry ice which works well. Heat guns are good for swapping bearings in a frame.
make sure to replace the ones that are visibly damaged ( dropped chain behind the cassette, rock strikes ect, )
If your using the same model as your old rim for your swap, simply tape them together and transfer the spokes one at a time.
This way you wont need to re-lace the hub and such, and its MUCH faster that taking everything apart and having to line up your hub with the valve hole, blah, blah, blah,
But ALWAYS change the nipples, this will assure that your tension doesn't change and gives you a new surface for your spoke key to mesh with
Re: Brass vs Alloy. 10 years ago I would have agreed, brass all the way. These days however using high quality 7075 alloy and good anodising alloy nipples are now infact better/stronger/lighter/more durable than brass. Which is good. Cos now my wheels can be lighter
Happy trails
Thanks!
Dont forget to de-gas the syringes when you bleed, this will get all of the tiny air bubbles out and then flush it through your hoses at least twice to get the residue that builds up out of your lines.\
DOT become acidic when it mixes with air, that will break down your seals and leave a black gunk in your MC or caliper cavities