Ask Pinkbike: Best BCBR Bike, Switching to a Longer Travel Fork, and Front Tire Suggestions

Jan 27, 2016
by Pinkbike Staff  
Ask Pinkbike Header

Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.



Best BCBR Bike

Question: Pinkbike user rmendoza asked this question in the All-Mountain, Enduro, and Cross-Country forum: Am I nuts in thinking about racing the BC Bike Race on my Yeti ARC hardtail? I really enjoy riding that bike and I've done a few twenty-four-hour races on it. The hardtail is such an efficient climber, and I'm quite comfortable on the descents when I'm riding it. Or should I just race on my beefy all-mountain bike? It is much heavier, and it's going to suck ass when climbing, but the descents will be much easier.

bigquotesYou're not nuts for considering your hardtail. I've raced the BC Bike Race a few times and have seen a lot of people on everything from pure cross-country race hardtails, to fat bikes, to 160mm travel machines with massive tires that must have weighed well over thirty-five pounds. A lot of people are racing on whatever bike they happen to own, and while they're there to race and push themselves, they also know that they're probably not going to be winning. The ideal bike, at least in my mind, is a 120mm travel 29er with wide-ish tires and a dropper post that weighs 25lb or less, but that's a tall order for a lot of people.

I believe that you should race on whatever bike you think that you'll have the most fun on, and it kinda sounds like you answered your own question when you talked about your ARC hardtail. This is especially true if you're comfortable riding it on some technical terrain. That said, the bike deserves a 4'' or 5'' travel dropper post and a set of 2.3'' wide tubeless tires - forget about the weight those two mods might add and thank me after you've finished the race. They are basically mandatory items in my mind, even if we all could get by without them.
- Mike Levy

Andreas Vollheim of Stravanger takes the rock roll without a care.
  You can race the BCBR on any bike, but you'll have the most fun on one with meaty tires and a dropper seat post. BCBR photo






How Will a Longer Fork Affect My Bike's Handling?

Question: sampolicky asks in the All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: I recently upgraded my fork on my bike. I have a 2016 Specialized Stumpjumper. I upgraded from a 150mm Revelation to a 160mm Pike fork. I was curious, what that extra 10 mm will do to the geometry of the bike. I know it will probably be minuscule, but for geometry, only a couple millimeters or degrees can make a huge difference. How will it affect the head angle, BB height, etc?

bigquotesYou will probably enjoy an overall improvement in your Stumpjumper's technical handling, but it won't be a huge difference. Unless you run your spring pressure sky high, some of that extra ten millimeters of fork travel will be used up in sag. Calculated out, if you add ten millimeters to the fork's stroke, your head and seat angles will be a bit less than a half degree slacker and your bottom bracket will rise about 3.5 mm. Specialized is big on low bottom bracket heights (the specs say 335mm), so the new fork could be an improvement if you pedal over chunky terrain. Slackened by a half degree (67 to 66.5 theoretically), the head angle will calm the bike's handling slightly, but that sensation should disappear quickly. If you want to be picky, move your saddle forward five millimeters to correct for the change in the seat tube angle. All told, the additional travel will be the prominent handling benefit. - RC


2016 Stumpjumper FSR Comp 650b
The addition of a 160mm-stroke fork should improve the Stumpjumper FSR Comp's handling in all areas of its technical performance.






Bontrager SE4 or Maxxis DHR II Front Tire?

Question: Thorjensen asks in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: I'll soon be finishing a hardtail 650b build with 130mm Pike RCT3 and 25mm internal rim width, and tires are the last bits. Do any of you have hands on experience with both the Bontrager SE4 and Maxxis DHR2 as a front tire?.

bigquotesThe Bontrager SE4 and the Maxxis DHR II are both great tires, but there are noticeable differences out on the trail. Their weights and rubber compounds are very similar, so picking the best one will depend on what type of conditions you'll be riding in. For drier, more hardpacked trails I'd go with the SE4. It's a little faster rolling than the DHR II, and has a slightly rounder profile that provides very predictable cornering performance. The SE4's grip does suffer a bit in really sloppy conditions, which is where Maxxis' DHR II comes in. The DHR II offers excellent traction for those sloppy winter rides, and is an ideal year-round choice for any location where wet and loose trails are the norm. - Mike Kazimer


Maxxis Minion DHR II
Bontrager SE4 Team Issue tire 2014
Maxxis DHR II (left) has the edge in nasty weather, but both it and the SE4 (above) are excellent all-rounders for riders looking for good traction and decent rolling speed.



Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.


181 Comments

  • 152 2
 On my enduro/park/all mountain/trail/shuttle bike.. should i run a flat pedal on the left with a flat shoe and clips on the right? I like to slash berms pretty hard.
  • 66 2
 "I can't turn left!"
  • 22 162
flag Hank-Riffee (Jan 26, 2016 at 17:44) (Below Threshold)
 That doesn't seem like a good idea, since your foot will be positioned differently on each pedal. Also, what happens when you want to slash a berm that's turning the opposite direction?

My advice is that you get very comfortable riding on both flats and clipless (either or, don't mix and match), and pick which type you prefer.
  • 19 2
 Asking the real question. Ofcourse you should run that system the other way. It is only cool to slash right hand berms
  • 79 2
 I've gotten much better results by installing my pedal spindle directly into my shoe. Having your foot closer to the spindle makes the bike much more responsive, and not having pedals saves a ton of weight.
  • 26 0
 I have done away with shoes and pedals altogether. Just spindles and caulking. Surprisingly great feel.
  • 18 2
 That's a good system too @pancakeflatted. The only downside is you have to replace the turbo alloy piston spindle ring on on your fork with a titanium version to offset the negative aerodynamic affects of riding barefoot.
  • 5 3
 Seems nascary.
  • 36 3
 I've had pedal spindles drilled directly into my feet, now my bike handling feels so much more responsive and direct, not to mention the weight savings from having no pedals, and less bone material in my feet.
  • 11 0
 when i couldnt afford clipless shoes, i took the spindle out of my old pedals and taped my shoes to it. only downside is i have to take my shoes off whenever im not riding :/
  • 6 1
 Great question @hessiannate, hope you, er, get the answer you're looking for....
  • 18 0
 I'm not an ambiturner
  • 6 1
 Give @Hank-Riffee a cookie!
  • 11 0
 Don't forget to shorten the opposite handlebar by 23.5mm, this will optimise ground clearance whilst carving hard.
  • 3 1
 I think Brian Lopes used to do that in the old duel slalom days when they didn't have start gates. So if a pro has done it go for it, and not just any pro its Lopes. I think you will also find that is why Crank Brothers made the double shot pedal to save you only buying one set of pedals not two.
  • 2 0
 I can't turn right
  • 4 0
 I like to just remove the cranks and install the pedals right into the BB!!! It's sooooooo moto!!!!
  • 116 3
 I have a bike. should i just ride it? or constantly adjust eberything?
  • 146 0
 adjust eberything.
  • 77 0
 eberything.
  • 66 1
 drink beer and adjust eberything... did I get it right?
  • 56 1
 did I eber mention that riding bike is so much bun?
  • 64 0
 Drank beer and abjusted ebrything. Bready to bride.
  • 60 1
 I onby ride bark
  • 30 1
 This happens eberytime somebody makes a typo
  • 8 0
 Brian!!!!!! Booooo. Baahhhh. (Bonly Benglish people will bet bis.)
  • 3 0
 Bickin back bein bool?
  • 4 0
 Proofread ebery post
  • 5 1
 This joke is deaber than 26
  • 1 1
 Wooden ladders?!
  • 2 0
 Wodden bladders
  • 71 6
 is 26 dead?
  • 58 91
flag ibishreddin (Jan 26, 2016 at 17:16) (Below Threshold)
 Yes
  • 75 13
 Not on my watch!!!
  • 26 7
 same here!!
  • 43 11
 Don't be fooled by the haters. 26 is never dead!
  • 32 1
 But dirt jumpers tho... 26 for life!
  • 46 3
 26 is the danger. A wheelsize opens his door and gets shot and you think that of 26? No. 26 is the one who knocks!
  • 7 0
 never
  • 13 4
 Who to?

The industry?
Yes.

The question you have to ask yourself is whether you want to be taken along on whatever wave happens to be approaching.

If you see youself as a consumer of the latest and greatest the industry deems fit to dangle infront of your nose, then go for it.

Yet for everyone of us that takes a bite of the carrot, there will he people who are perfectly happy with what we have.
  • 17 33
flag JP199 (Jan 26, 2016 at 18:14) (Below Threshold)
 it wasnt a serious question @orientdave Its far past dead except for dirt jump
  • 25 2
 24s bro!!!
  • 6 0
 @JP199 I'm glad you weren't serious because I was really hoping 2016 was the year people would stop complaining about wheel size and focused more on
  • 70 1
 MORE ON WHAT?!?! DON'T LEAVE US HANGING!!
  • 6 1
 Weirdly, my XC bike is a 26er and not a 29er, but my Enduro bike has 650b... Reverse logic...
  • 18 0
 i wont be able to sleep tonight in agony of not knowing what he was gonna say
  • 25 0
 Industry sniper rode by Ryan83's house on his 28.2er
  • 17 0
 It's been two hours and he hasn't finished... that's what she said
  • 4 0
 @Somacatere
My XC HT is a 26 and my Enduro Bike I'd 29
  • 7 1
 I was hoping to have you finish my sentence in what would no doubt be a chain of hilarity.
  • 16 1
 I was hoping to have you tell me what to think.
  • 7 18
flag ibishreddin (Jan 26, 2016 at 22:27) (Below Threshold)
 Say what you want but 27.5 is simply faster for dh
  • 18 1
 26 dead? No, loads of great artists died at 27 (I'm not sure it was necessarily in the second half of it though) and were alive when they were 26. 27 will kill you, stick with 26.
  • 1 0
 That's why it's called the 27 club.
  • 12 0
 "Say what you want but 27.5 is simply faster for dh"

Its dumb opinions like that that are the reason the bike industry is bending us all over a barrel right now..
  • 3 1
 His statement is partially true, but where is it faster, for plowing through technical roots and stuff, where 26 will get bogged down, but 26 is faster through the corners, in the end it may work out to be the same at the bottom, **if** the course has a 50 50 split of tech and turns/ other stuff 26 is good for. Go with whatever u want or if your looking for soeed, think about the terrain.
  • 6 0
 Surely all this wheel size malarkey is total balls, its whatever the rider is more comfortable and thus confident riding on that will excel their performance, forget all the technical mumbo jumbo!
Just live and love the wheels, whatever size Wink
  • 4 1
 26 rear, 27.5 front.
  • 3 0
 Love the wheelsize your with!!! I'm kind of backwards too. My XC hardtail is 26" and my trailbike/AM is 650b. I drank the Kool-Aid this past fall and bought a 650b bike (Santa Cruz Bronson alu). I love that bike but it's predecessor was also fantastic (Blur LT). I'm not a racer but I still think I can ride my Blur just as fast as the Bronson on most trails.
  • 3 0
 26" jokes need to stop. So played out.
  • 5 0
 I like round ones.
  • 36 3
 Why would one use a DHR for a front tire when there's the perfectly capable DHF?
  • 24 1
 Because rumor has it dhr2 has more grip on the front than dhf
  • 10 0
 Ask minaar....I think v10 ships w/dhr2 front and back.
  • 31 1
 The DHR II provides more traction in steep, loose terrain, and I prefer it over the DHF during the wet winter months here in the Pacific Northwest. You can't really go wrong either way - they're both awesome tires.
  • 14 0
 next time i return this comment will have 50+ replies on dhr / dhf strengths and weaknesses. cant wait to come pour over them in 12 hours. adios
  • 3 2
 My understanding *which may be wrong*, is that DHF and DHR used to stand for front/rear and now stands for freeride/race. If this is right, it was a poor choice by Maxxis. But regardless the DHR2 KILLS it as a front tire.
  • 5 2
 FYI, Maxxis and Bontrager are made in the same factory
  • 1 0
 As I ride aggro hardtail I have found out that DHRII provides more grip while braking and this is crucial when your rear wheel is bouncing all the time over rough stuff
  • 8 1
 Probably a skill thing (read, I like trying to ride sometimes) but, ran the DHRII EXO 3C on the front, swapped out from my "usual" High Roller II, and ended up with fractured scapula, a few months later - acetabulum filled with blood and a butt cheek that looked like a full moon. Then again, it's a personal choice thing. I swapped them around, low and behold, the DHR makes an excellent rear tyre except that it does brake loose quicker than a ferret on crack
  • 8 0
 FYI, The new Bontrager stuff is designed by the guy who invented the Minion
  • 1 0
 The DHR2 is a solid choice for front and rear but has a pronounced "see-ya-later" edge that as a front either results in a drift or a "oh shi%" for an unsuspecting rider. The new "WT" versions will help avoid this type of squaring which is no doubt a result of the i25 rims they are mounted on.
  • 4 1
 I prefer the DHF in the rear rather than the front, it rolls faster
  • 6 0
 I had a DHR2 on the front and switched it for a DHF. I find the DHF more consistent. The DHR is great on the rear though.
  • 1 0
 Guy at the bike shop said it was front/rear, so I got a DHF when I really wanted a fatty. He said the tread pattern was specific to the front, which doesn't seem right. The DHF works pretty well either way.
  • 1 0
 @mikekazimer - have you noticed any increase in rolling resistance between DHRII and DHF, that you would write home about? I am waiting for 2,5" versions to arrive to Europe and while I am sure I want Minion SS on the back I haven't decided yet, whether I should go DHR or DHF for the front tyre. Also I love DHF's predictable transition to leaning into corner (thing I lack in HRollers), how's that on DHR?

Thanks!
  • 1 1
 I had a bontanger front and I hated it. Skiddy and pingy, it did not instil confidence,
  • 4 0
 WAKI - go to blistergearreview.com (MTB section) - they have an in depth review of the Minion DHRII including use as a rear or front tyre. Also instructions and drawing of how to cut the DHRII to make a super grippy front that's better than the DHF which is a pretty bold statement considering the fact that the DHF has been his all time favourite Tyre.
  • 8 0
 So we have worked out here that some people like it in the rear while others prefer otherwise?
  • 1 0
 Thanks @rstwosix - awesome read and awesome site that I have never seen before. DHF it shall be though...
  • 1 0
 It's funny how many different theorys there are for what the "F" & "R" stand for... I'd always heard if was for "Flat" & "Ramped," & since I live someplace fairly dry, I accordingly ran the DHR as a front & a HR in the rear (back before either had a "II.") Nowadays I'm running a different tire every change, trying to find my new favorite(I'm also not running only dual-ply wirebeads anymore, so there's a lot more choices.)
  • 1 0
 Running 29 x 2.5 DHF (front) DHRII (rear)

I really love the way the DHF transfers smoothly from the center knobs to the side knobs. I find the turn in and corner holding ability very linear, and as you reach the limit it does not breakaway in a hurry. That being said, the DHF 3C Exo offers immense traction in comparison to the Hans Dampf stickies which came off.

I find that the DHRII digs well as a rear tire on the climb, and brakes really well on the steeps. It is very confidence inspiring in the corner, and digs hard in the berm at speed... But when it does breakaway, it does in a hurry.. That could spell disaster as a front tire.

Overall happy with the performance of each in their F and R designations.
  • 6 1
 Just do not ever, ever, run a High Roller on the front. If you think the DHRII is like a toggle switch in the turns, the HR is like riding with the lights turned off between upright and slammed over in a turn- no transition whatsoever. If that's your style, then great, but after eating shit 5 times in one day from losing the front end I ended the experiment. Rolls fast? Check. Corners hard? Check. Able to ride a slightly off-camber less than hardpack? Bye bye trail, hello trees and cracked ribs.
  • 2 0
 I agree with @cstishenko the way the DHF transfers. I've yet to find a wash out limit. I got another bike that came with a Butcher and I'm replacing it with a DHF because you can't push it as hard into the corners or it washes out. The way the transition happens on the DHF is pretty fluid.

I've always wondered if the F and R stood for flat and round.
  • 2 1
 i couldnt agree more with @skidrumr !!!!!!!!

almost eat shit hard a few times due to lack of transition in the middle. i can rail berms and straight line em threw ganrly rock gardens but mild off camber natural single tracks is sketchy as hell!

they suck as a soggy winter tire.

gonna give hans dampfs another try before snagging a dhf,dhr combo.
  • 2 0
 @cptstoney I dumped the Dampf's and noticed increased traction in all areas. Climbing, descending, cornering, braking.
Not only that but the Maxxis were cheaper than the Dumpf's size for size, compound for compound.

The 3C compound DHF/DHRII combo gave enough of a traction gain that I could now use better brake pads, no more unnecessary lockups, way more traction under braking. Where in comparison on the pads I currently have, the Dampfs easily broke traction under heavy braking. I had the Trailstar Compound, which is known to be the stickiest.

If I had to buy new, Dampf vs DHF/DHRII... Maxxis hands down. More stick, less dollars.
  • 2 0
 There is no comparing of Minions to Hans Dampfs. Those tyres are worlds apart and also made for different purposes. Modern geometries and suspension allow any Joey to go fast enough to reach HDampfs or NNics grip limit with ease. If you want a faster rolling tyre at lower weight with a taste of qualities of a Minion, go for Butchers Control/GRID. Those are basically mini Minions and compared to Schwalbes, they are more durable with more stable sidewalls. I use Minions for everything, apart from well known downhill performance, they climb incredibly even in harder compounds.
  • 1 0
 Running Maxxis HR II EXO/TR 2.3 650b dual compound on my new bike (came with my Bronson). Totally hated them on wet days -- so lethal on wet roots/rocks/wood. I got absolutely destroyed on a wet bridge this fall. Then I dropped tire pressure to about 22psi up front and it's a totally different tire. Very good wet weather tire for descending. I'm going to try the 3C 2.4 next.
  • 1 0
 I did Hrii 26x2.4 and they were a great tire but wore really fast. I now use dhrii exo 3c tr and think they are the better way to go. Very similar feel but better braking and a bit more support in the side knobs. Also they are a ton more durable.
  • 1 0
 @WAKIdesigns: While you are right that the Hans Dampf doesn't compare well to the Minion, if in Europe, I would still go with Schwalbe, since in my experience they work at least as well as Maxxis and might come cheaper over here.

Personally, for example, I can not detect any disadvantage whatsoever of a Magic Mary/Rock Razor combination, when compared to the Minion DHF/SS combi that you are planning.
  • 3 0
 I'm not sure what the F and R stand for. My girlfriend is also curious as to what the C and A stands for in her knickers (Joke for the older UK members)
  • 1 0
 WAKI - yes blistergearreviews is great for test info. I read the DHRII test but stuck with DHF (like you are going to). Can't be bothered cutting a DHRII to make a front tyre. Did you notice the test of the new Minion 2.5 WT (wide trail) for rims up to 35mm inner width? Good info once again.
  • 1 0
 Yea I did check that. But i am sticking to EX 471 rims at 25 inner, since I cannot find any wider rim that I could trust as much as this one. So I'll go for regular width Minion DHF 2.5".
  • 1 0
 @cstishenko i have a set of hans with 3 rides on em sitting in my shed. bought em and slapped on my old bike then promptly cracked the frame..... cant bring ymself to throw em away or take a huge hit on price so ill run em when the high rollers burn off.

new ride came with high roller2's. not a fan so far. they did fine in drier stuff but i find myself slipping and slidding way more often now that its cold and wet'ish
  • 1 0
 How does the DHF compare to the Magic Mary? I am having a hard time moving away from the MM up front, but am always curious if I could be rolling faster.
  • 3 0
 DHF rolls faster and more importantly... longer. Much longer.
  • 1 0
 i called a guy out for getting schwalbes for less then $60 a pop and was given a ebay link to sticky dh casing magic marys for $35....... havent ordered em yet but it looks to be legit.
  • 2 0
 @LaXcarp Magic Marys are a great race tire, but if you ride more than a couple times per week I'd look into the minion/G5 for a DH bike, or you can save 2 pounds and get the Bontrager SE5 which is the same updated minion tread that the G5 has but on a much light casing. It's Trek's enduro race tire of choice and they're super tacky in the wet and on woodwork!
  • 1 0
 My fave front tire to date, and I don't think you can even get them anymore, is the Arrow Ramped Bite with the soft compound. Super tough casing, fantastic tread pattern with smooth transitions and they roll pretty fast for how much meat they have. That tire saved my ass many times rolling outside an off-camber or through the "Surprise!" section of slushy runoff early in the season. Very confident on the brakes, over rocks, you name it. The High Roller IIs look curiously similar tread-wise but with less knobs between edge & center. I liked the old Butchers too but they just didn't hold up. I don't worry about weight much if they do what they are supposed to.
  • 2 0
 Thanks allix. I have been running my MM for almost a year and it has worn just fine actually, but I am light. I am really looking for a comparison of the performance difference between the MM and dhf.
  • 20 2
 Since we all ask something: is it 8 or 9 minutes so to boil pasta penne al dente?
  • 15 0
 Depends on the pasta and altitude. For the most accurate test, you have to fully submerge your head and take a bite of the pasta without letting them touch air. Otherwise the oxidation will throw things off.
  • 3 0
 26 minutes is ideal as long as the water is at 67.5 degrees.
  • 12 3
 You just bough a 120-140mm bike.
Step one: take it out of the box
Step two: throw away Revelation and put Pike in it
Step three: so help me God
  • 6 1
 So I am thinking of doing a summer in Whistler, I have a 160mm AM bike. I dont really want to but a full on DH bike. I want to be able to ride about half park and half trail riding. Should I get a 180mm fork or will the 160mm do fine there?
  • 15 1
 get a 160... i ride park with 140-150 and it is plenty..
  • 10 0
 160 should be fine for 50% of the park, and the rest will be gravy
  • 5 0
 I rode my Kona Process 153DL up there a few times last season with a 160mm Pike and I had a blast, some trails I prefered it to my DH bike.
  • 4 0
 if you have a 160, keep it. Don't need to buy a new fork for the trip. But if you're thinking of getting a new fork anyway, consider the type of riding you'll be doing day in day out. I have a 2011 enduro (160mm -ish) and a talas 180-140 on the front. I've spent a week in Whistler on it, shuttle runs and other dh stuff regular, but also can go mob some more xc trails and still have fun. BUT, a compromise is a compromise. It isn't near as stable as a real dh bike, so I have to muscle it around, hop over ruts, and not screw up much on dh trails, and I have to bust ass to keep up on pedally stuff. I highly suggest a travel adjust fork like the talas if you're going to go 180 as you'll get two new feels out of your bike. But again, don't expect too much out of either. My 2 cents
  • 6 3
 Buy the Fox 36 170mm...it can move from 160mm to 180mm and your covered. It is a manual process but only takes like 10minutes. Best of both worlds. I ride a ton there and 180mm would be minimum to not have my hands smashed to shit lap after lap after lap & day after day.
  • 3 0
 I rode an enduro bike in a heck of a lot of the park, including the more technical trails and a decent selection of valley trails. 160 is fine for a lot of it but damn it'll be hard on your AM bike.
  • 10 0
 If your doing a whole summer of hard park riding (you say doing a summer in whistler) I would recommend buying DH bike. If your just going for a vacation the 160mm will be fine
  • 1 0
 i don't know what you have but a better investment might be a beefier shock like a ccdb air
  • 6 0
 @imho4ep Fox 36 so its a damn good fork.
  • 1 0
 I was talking about the shock not the fork
  • 2 0
 Oh haha trying to do homework while reading pinkbike comments is not a good mix. its a float x ctd
  • 13 0
 A DH rig is not a necessity, but it sure will help make your AM bike last a little longer, and your hands might thank you for it. I only have an AM bike, and have taco'd two front wheels, one rear wheel, bent and ripped out the threads on a derailleur hanger, torn the sidewalls on two tires, broke a brake lever, bent a seat post, unseated the sanction on a fox 34 from the crown, destroyed a fox float, and cracked a frame in the first year and a half. I probably could have bought a DH bike for the money I have spent on repairs.
  • 4 1
 The 160 is fine. Borrow a DH bike.
  • 1 0
 Does your shock have an external reservoir? See mandatory
  • 6 0
 yeah not someone you want to loan your bike to Big Grin
  • 3 1
 Sell that fork and get a quality fork like a metrik that can be adjusted between 160 and 180
  • 4 1
 My blog post on BC Bike Race preparations... In hindsight I would have run a dropper post on my tallboy on stage 5 and 6. (North Shore and Squamish) bcbluerun.blogspot.ca/2015/06/3-preparations-part-2-machine.html

But yeah... I'd say Mike is spot on. 120mm 29er.
  • 3 0
 I have a Transition Smuggler which didn't come with a dropper. I'm wondering what the best option for a dropper is, or whether I really need one. I'd rather not spend a huge amount of money, but that's often unavoidable with bikingSmile Any suggestions?
  • 11 0
 A dropper will change the way you ride more than any other "technology" of the last 5 years. There are a plethora of options but I'd recommend going new through a shop because they break and you want someone to have your back.
  • 4 0
 Get a dropper. make sure you don't have so much drop that you cant insert the post enough. I think the Thompson is the best dropper out there, the Fox is pretty cool too. I however own a gravity dropper turbo and a reverb, both good. The Reverb is easy to service. The mechanical droppers are fine and I think less likely to fail on the trail, but the infinite adjustments of the hydraulic droppers is kinda nice too. And I have not had any problems with either. Best to go to a shop and check them out if you can.
  • 4 0
 Oh yeah I checked out a Kind Shock for a ride It was pretty cool and Only $120 at Cambria.
  • 4 0
 Recon'd reverb. It's the best value for money and three years of sbuse no service mine still works but now needs a look at.
  • 2 0
 Thanks guys! I found a deal on the Thomson Elite, so I think I'll buy one of those.
  • 2 0
 I have a reverb on my smuggler,

had to warranty replace the first two due to developing a sag at the top but the third one has been great. I do check the air in it frequently, mainly due to the warm/cold weather temperature changes.

I do love riding with it, nice to drop that seat and get low and heavy on the pedals on rough downhills, it totally fits with the smuggler's geo.
  • 1 0
 Cant go wrong with Thomson. My reverb is all beat up, scratches on the post, had to replace the remote crashedSmile Still going strong though. Guess I got a good one.
  • 3 0
 I like Specialized command post, I just bought my second to have on my hardtail. Easy service and reliable. I have never felt the need to have more than 3 positions.
  • 3 0
 @RichardCunningham : Going from a 150mm Revelation to a 160mm Pike, wouldn't the axle-to-crown measurement make a bigger difference than just the travel? The crown is way deeper, and I think the trail is different too, no? I've never measured the two forks myself, but that sounds a lot like the difference between a Trance and a TranceSX, or a Stumpy and a StumpyEVO. i.e., more than a half a degree.
?
  • 4 0
 Revelation 150mm 650b : 539mm
Pike 160mm 650b : 552mm

13mm !!! and not 10
Wink
  • 3 0
 Wow, those 3mm surely makes a lot of difference :-) Offset seems to be the same (42mm) so the resulting trail is affected only by HA.
  • 1 0
 Question: answered. Thanks guys!
  • 2 0
 Have been running the Se4 front & Se3 rear for nearly a year on a Yeti Sb5c. 30mm internal carbon rims set up tubeless allow 19psi front & 28 psi rear - I'm a cuddly 120kg. At those pressures for general trail riding the bike is almost uncrashable. No tyre roll on fast corners, no burping ever, not one puncture, endless grip and amazing wear rates on rocky dry trails. The side wall strength is no doubt responsible for a lot of these attributes. It also means I have not cut one side wall in nearly a year. On previous Maxxis Exo & rubena tyres I was loosing a rear sidewall about every 8 weeks. The only downside is they are heavier than a lot of other options out there. There durability makes them the cheapest tyres over the long run I have ever run.
  • 3 0
 I have a 2015 Lapierre Zesty with a 150mm pike. If I increase the travel to 160mm, will that yield the same improvements as with the stumpjumper?
  • 3 0
 The true important thing to keep in mind is it's the axle to crown height that affects geometry, not necessarily the travel. The Pike isn't particularly short, so it's possible to get a different fork with more travel that's actually the same height, which will thus give you the same geometry.
  • 3 0
 i have a remedy and i put 150mm fork on it and it did the same thing as the stumpjumper...so on your bike it should do the same..in short my bike is a better bike because of it.......cheers
  • 2 0
 Yep I did exactly that, with the same bike. It's a better choice, you won't look back.
  • 2 0
 Second what he said about the bcbr bike. I did it on a 135mm stumpjumper 29er evo which was a bit much but fun on the downhills. Something like an evil following or ibis Ripley Ls would be perfect. Or yeti sb4.5
  • 2 0
 @mikelevy. For the BCBR, Pivot Mach 429 sl? 110 fork, 120 mm shock. I really like the bike. Climbs amazing, and pretty good (but not great) for technical. I am on waiting list and hoping to ride it some day.
  • 1 0
 BCBR - I ran a Niner RIP 9 with 110/140 RCT3 and had a blast on the ups and down, specially the downs. +1 for the Dropper and the fun factor. If you wanted to race a competitive race (top 20-30), lose the dropper and and run 120mm fork. 2015 winner was on a Yeti ASR-c 120mm Fork, ie. the perfect XCM bike.
  • 1 0
 did you see a lot of racers on hardtails?
  • 1 0
 I was using Hutchinson Toros til I blew the front. The High roller was ok once I got used to it, the edge needs to round off a little, the HR2 is better. Now I'm in Grand Junction Happy with Continental Mountain King on the rear and trail king front. The black Chili rubber is great on all the slickrock here. Ninham is such an awesome area all the new stuff on the XC side makes up for all the closings on the tower side. I rode there through most winters they plow the road to the tower so you can just dh in the snow.
  • 1 0
 In relation to the more travel. My bike has a high BB so going 150mm to 160mm fork is likely going to make things feel a bit high and weird. To lower the bike back down again am I better to use offset bushes or an angleset?
  • 1 0
 I just love these ask pink bike forums. Solid practical advice. I'm running a magic Mary 2.35 on front and a purgatory 2.35 in back for a wet pnw winter set up. Purgatory was cheap and actually works better than average tire in the mud, the magic Mary is well magic this winter.
  • 1 0
 FYI....

shameless plug>

Endless Biking also rents bikes for BCBR! We've been involved with the event for many years and we have 2 staff members on Bike Patrol. We know the event well and the bike requirements and we can set you up!

So, if you are on the fence about what bike to bring or don't have something suitable, just rent it and it will have the goodies for a great week!

/shameless plug>

DB@EB
  • 2 0
 XR4 have been great too. They have a lighter sidewall than the SE4s and they have the same tread pattern. I think they're adequate for a 130 travel bike.
  • 2 0
 I can see the 'longer fork' guy rushing to his toolbox now, anxiously hunting for the wrench that fits his saddle/seatpost adjustment......
  • 1 0
 I cant. I moved the saddle as far forward as possible when I first got the bike to help eliminate the rearward offset that specialized puts on their command post dropper
  • 1 0
 Well, nice bike anyway, whichever fork you keep on it.
  • 1 0
 On the changeing fork question, the stumpjumper 29er comes with a 140mm with 46mm offset, what would happen going to the 150mm with 51mm offset?
  • 1 0
 Steering will become quicker, which I think is a good thing on 29er. Even for 26 bikes those stock offsets are too short, because bike got slacker and need more offset. I have changed from 26 fork to 27.5 fork with larger offset and bikes simply handles better.
  • 1 0
 Thanks
  • 1 0
 keep the yeti arc. Those bikes rip better on than any hard tail I have ever ridden. With the 68 degree head angle and the 17.8" chain stay those thing are so stable.
  • 1 0
 What tires should I run on my capra I have high rollers on it now 2.4 back and front
  • 2 1
 i find that the xr4 team and xr3 team work the best check those out..and i was using high rollers before i switched to bontys
  • 2 1
 U say lite and strong what more can u ask for ?
Traction! Long lasting! Fast rolling!
  • 4 2
 The SE5 is more comparable to the DHR2, and it is great.
  • 1 0
 Should I make my enduro bike a cyclocross bike? If yoan barelli can do it why can't i?
  • 1 0
 I ride a DHbike...i have a MAXXIS shorty as a front tire.......love it, amazing!!!!!!
  • 1 0
 Anyone have any experience running Maxis Aggressor Front with a High Roller 2 in the rear?
  • 1 0
 I am running HR2 on the back and initially I liked them as they grip well going straight. But they seem to have a 'no mans land' when you roll the tire on the side or on off camber where there is virtually no grip - and I have a few unexpected wipe outs. I am looking to change to Butchers (which I run on front) or some Magic Marys.
  • 1 0
 I have used HR2 in the rear and I think its a fine Front tire. I like a more rounded profile for the rear Like the minion DHR2 The Aggressor is nice in the front though.
  • 1 0
 Looking to buy a carbon v10 but how strong are these frames. Always been concerned about strength and will it break.
  • 1 0
 Loving my front 29x 2.35 magic mary on the 38mm lb rim. Nobby nic is draggy in rear but ok grip.
  • 1 0
 Wait, I thought Mike Levy hadn't actually completed BCBR yet...even after trying 4 times? Just sayin.
  • 1 0
 What's your opinion for a 27.6 160 travel bike for BCBR?
Yeti SB6C
  • 2 1
 se4 tires rock!!!
  • 3 1
 se4 tires are awsome.... they are lite and strong what more can you ask(only down side is they are like 70 dollars)
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