Ask Pinkbike: Riding At High Altitude, Geeking Out On Race Results, and Replacing Rotors

May 29, 2018
by Pinkbike Staff  
Ask Pinkbike Header

Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul-searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand-picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.




Riding at High Altitude?

Question: Pinkbike user @MoonQuake asked this question in the Fitness, Training & Health forum: I was wondering if anyone here had experience with riding at high altitude and how fit one needs to be to do so. I'll be touring in Switzerland in June and while there on a day off, I figured I'd rent a bike and hit the trails in the Swiss Alps. Rothorn-Zermatt and the like. But the high altitude and lesser oxygen have me worried.

I'm not a professional rider nor super fit. I have a bit of excess weight and I don't bike extensively. 10-15 kilometers every other day in the summer. So should I be concerned, should I avoid it, or should I pace myself once I'm there?


bigquotesI used to work at a ski shop in Crested Butte, Colorado, elevation 9898', and inevitably, at least once a winter, I'd look up from my bench to see a tourist who'd recently arrived from the lowlands of Texas looking a little green around the gills. Next would come the question, “Mister, where's the bathroom?”, usually followed by a pile of vomit on the shop floor. Ah, the good old days.

Anyways, back to your question. Yes, you should definitely go for a ride while you're in the Swiss Alps, and yes, you should be aware of how your body reacts to the higher altitude, especially if the location you're visiting is over 8,000 feet (2438 meters). A headache, nausea, or vomiting can all be signs of altitude sickness, so pay attention to how you're feeling; sometimes descending to a town that's at a slightly lower elevation can be all that's necessary for the symptoms to subside.

It's important to stay hydrated – drink more water than you normally would, and go easy on the alcohol. Also keep in mind that you'll likely get out of breath much more easily when you start to exert yourself. Take your time, don't try to push yourself too hard, and you should be fine. Although it takes a few weeks for your body to fully acclimate, you'll likely start to feel better after only a few days at a higher altitude.

Mike Kazimer


A Journey Through Colorado s Trail Diversity - Alpine meadows to red desert
Sometimes, it's not only the scenery that'll take your breath away. Photo: Ross Bell





Results Website?

Question: Pinkbike user @Randomscruff asked this question in the Downhill Forum: Could someone point me in the direction of the website that has all the riders results? The site I'm thinking of had the results displayed with a line graph and, if I remember rightly, what percentage they were off the win.


bigquotes www.rootsandrain.com is the website you're after and is a great resource for checking results, seeing if you beat your mates and for checking winning margins in the new "Finish Spread" page. You can also click on your name and profile and find any photographs that were taken of you at events and buy them in hi-res straight from the photographer. The site is continuously updated, and if you are a race organizer with results from years gone by they will still be added to the site if you use the contact page.

There is also a new kid on the block as of last week, the worldcup.eliotjackson.com blog page promises all the stats for those who want to get really geeky. The page is in its infancy, but Eliot is on it and should provide all the numbers you need after a heavy weekend of World Cup racing.
Paul Aston

Roots and Rain Images
World Cup Stats by Eliot Jackson




Does New Brakes Mean New Rotors?

Question: Pinkbike user @noah1991 asked this question in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: I'm in the market for new brakes and was wondering if you need to buy new rotors at the same time, or are rotors interchangeable? I currently have SRAM Level brakes and am looking at either SRAM Guides or TRP Quadiem brakes. Should I also buy new rotors in either case or in both cases?

bigquotesI think this is a question a lot of us have had and there are a lot of opinions. In your case, it's more of a what you can do vs. what you should do.

Can you run different rotors with different manufacturer's brakes? Yes, in some cases. Should you? Ehh... It's not the best idea. Here's why: Almost every manufacturer has a slightly different rotor thickness and they design and engineer their brakes and pads to work best with their own rotors. Plus, mixing and matching safety equipment (brakes) is never a good idea since it could hamper performance. If you're going to drop money on new brakes to increase performance, then just go ahead and get new rotors too for the best performance.

If you're planning on purchasing new brakes that are from the same manufacturer, it's a great time to install fresh rotors unless the ones you currently have are in good shape AND you're using the same pad compound, as the material from your pads being bedded into the rotor is what is helping you stop. Rotors do take some time to reach full potential once you install them (that's why you bed them in before your first ride) so if the rotors are in good shape and you don't have deep grooves, discoloration on the edges of the rotor, or they're making noise (which usually indicates they're toast) you'll likely be ok with keeping them in that situation.

For reference: EWS mechanic Kyle Hayes goes with a 2-1 formula most of the time, changing brake pads twice for every time he swaps out the rotor. For racers like Jared Graves, he'll change rotors every time he changes pads to keep performance at top levels. While most of us probably don't need to be nearly that obsessive, it underscores the importance of rotors to the system.
 
Daniel Sapp


A lot of brake rotors are similar but they aren't exactly the same. For the best performance, don't mix your brands.




Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.


89 Comments

  • 116 25
 Sorry what?? I have never worn out a rotor. Contamination being the only reason to ever replace one. And since when aren't they compatible with other brands? What about aftermarket discs then? Obviously they work fine as I have done it myself. Not sure I agree with this one.
  • 37 5
 Or bending one.... Just adding to reasons to replace. Also, the calipers auto adjust to thickness... pads wear and become thinner, so why would rotor thickness matter?
  • 40 7
 I agree that rotors can be swapped between brands easily, but you've never worn one out? Do you just not use your brakes at all?
  • 16 3
 @eswebster: rotor thickness matters because once the rotors are too thin, they can warp or fail very easily, and in the case of icetech rotors, you could be braking on aluminum instead of steel. A micrometer is necessary to measure rotor thickness, calipers can't measure the centre of the rotor, which is what needs to be measured.
  • 4 1
 They can't always be swapped, and if your dropping 400 on some hope DH brakes why the hell not spend the extra 100 or so @tsheep:
  • 12 0
 Contamination is the last reason to swap rotors, can be easily fixed with a grinder or alcohol and a torch. They bend, that's why I've gone through so many
  • 2 4
 @tsheep: ever tryed using maguras in anything maguras, they don't fit, also Sram centreline rotors are shit in Shimano brakes... If you use from new most brands can be mixed apart from maguras
  • 15 0
 @eswebster: All rotors have a minimum thickness. Unless you're running organic pads in completely dry and clean (ie: not dusty) conditions, eventually it's going to wear down below than minimum. We're talking like 1.9mm to 1.5mm, so it's not exactly easily visible, but a decent inspection will reveal a small ledge from the rotor into the support arms. You can even feel it if you drag a fingernail across.
  • 143 1
 @gjedijoe:

I spent a whole day trying to get my rotors back to their best using alcohol and a torch but gave up after 3 sets of batteries and a drunk dial to my ex-wife.
  • 18 0
 Rotors certainly do wear out. I’ve seen ice tech rotors where the outer layer of steel started to peel after the aluminum core was reached. I’ve seen rotors where the brake track was concave from use so new pads didn’t fully contact the rotor until those new pads were worn down which they did more quickly as only the outermost edges were being used until the pad mated with the concave surface. Most modern brakes use small reservoirs and as the pad and roto wears you find the lever reach gets closer to the bar because once you reach the limits of oil volume the pistons don’t come out far enough. At least that’s what I’ve concluded based on my use.
  • 10 0
 @gjedijoe: Apparently there are some combos that don't work (see @Scotj009's comment about Maguras), but I've freely swapped Shimano, Hope, and Formula rotors without any issues.

And I don't spend the extra $$$ because I have a pile of Ice Tech rotors that were on sale that I'm burning my way through. I may not like Shimano's brakes, but I don't have any complaints about their rotors.
  • 3 0
 contamination to a rotor can be solved with 30 seconds and some brake cleaner. If that doesn't fix it, its on your pads and two minutes with a blow torch will. Just make sure you don't clean the rotors, use the contaminated pads on them, before cleaning just the pads as the pads will have recontaminated the rotors.
  • 3 0
 Just because you haven't done it doesn't mean it isn't possible. Ive had some rotors last a few years, Iv'e gone through others in less than a season of riding. Often I think people don't ride enough to noticeably wear them out before bending or simply changing set up. But they do wear, using metallic pads under extreme conditions can make fairly short work of them in fact. It's just like on your car, the friction over time removes material from the rotor not just the pad. So while they may last you a long time, they certainly don't last forever.
  • 2 1
 I've went through 3 rotors in a couple of months. I had a bad caliper that caused it. I normally go through one on the rear about every year and a half. I won't take chances with ice tech rotors.
  • 1 0
 Don't ignore the width of the brake track. Shimano for instance uses a relatively narrow brake track. Don't use Hope or Magura calipers on their rotors. Never thought I should replace rotors regularly. I only used to replace them when they were bent. But I put fresh rotors along with fresh pads on when I assembled my new bike and it definitely made a difference compared to just putting in fresh pads and bedding them in on the old rotors.
  • 4 0
 @clarky78: Either you get a new bike every year or your rotors are as thin as a pringle.
  • 5 0
 Perfectly possible to wear out a disc! You should try riding in parts of the UK where a mixture of gritty soil and rain mean you can go through a set of pads in a ride at times. I usually have to replace my rear discs after the winter as all that gritty, sandy crap gets kicked up all over them by the front wheel, that's in Shimano and Hope brakes. Fronts tend to last longer as they are out of the firing line of the worst of it. It's the same reason our drivetrains take a pounding here.
  • 4 3
 @Scotj009: interesting, since I have MT5s on both my MTBs and only use 180mm XT icetech rotors. I've never had an issue. I'd say you're a bit off on compatibility. I've mix and matched and ton of different brands and never had an issue. Well apart from all my Avoid (Avid) brakes being total dukie, but that had nothing to do with rotor choice.

The only combo I didn't like was my Hayes Stroker Ace/SRAM Centreline, they were just exceptionally noisy, and when I swapped to regular Avid Cleansweeps, it was quite again. But those centerlines were noisier on every brake I tried them with. I went to Icetechs on all my bikes last year and couldn't be happier. I have the SLX ones on my commuter with Deore brakes, my Trail bikes both use MT5s on XT Icetechs and my road bike has the XTR finned rotors with the 785 calipers and finned pads. All have no compatibility issues, and all have quiet brakes.
  • 2 0
 XT lever blew a seal so I had to throw on the Deore rear brake that came with the bike. The braking surface on the deore is actually larger top to bottom than the XT and the pad would have been below the bottom lip of the braking surface. It probably would have been okay but there is definitely a difference in the vertical height of the pads. I had the old rotor too so I swapped that over.
  • 2 0
 @BikesBoatsNJeeps: I think you read that wrong, maguras rotors won't work in other calipers due to they're thickness, xt rotors will of course work in maguras brakes as they are thinner and therefore fit
  • 2 1
 @Scotj009: I think Magura rotors are about 2.0mm thick (when new) but I don't think they're alone. Yes Shimano rotors are particularly thin but when I see aftermarket (generic) rotors they're often 2.0mm thick too. So there must be more brands working with rotors that thick. I've got a 2004 Shimano Saint caliper (similar to XT of that same year) with an XT master. But I wasn't using the Saint rotor as it required a special hub which was too expensive for me at the time. I was using my old (round) Magura Julie 180mm rotor instead. I don't think it gave me any trouble. It wasn't to be expected either. Even if Shimano rotors are thinner, you always need to pump the lever a few times to get the slave pistons to shift from completely pushed back into the proper position. Even with new pads, even with a 2.0mm rotor.
  • 1 0
 @clarky78 you'll need to ride more then, I put in about 300,000ft to 400,000ft of descending a year, i stubbornly keep going till the disc is paper thin as i hate spending money on consumables, my last discs were cheap "clarks" models with aluminium carriers. used them for 2 years of racing/training. so about 700,000ft of hard work for the stoppers. my discs were less than 1mm thick. So i put on the shimano discs from my spare wheels that had barely been used and the difference in bite, feel and modulation for the same brake but new discs was huge. definitely noticeable!!

and regarding the 2 different discs brands on same brakes, there was definitely different thickness between my clarks and shimano discs when they were both new, as I back then was changing wheels over with different tyres to test the different treads out. and the brakes were affected massively. i can't remember which discs were thicker, but going from thin to thick I struggled to get my wheel in, with the brakes feeling all pumped up. But going from thick to thin, the wheel popped in obviously no probs but it took several pumps of the lever top equalize everything and stop the lever from going to the bar. however obviously once the open system in my brakes had adjusted it self then all was good either way and i had no issues

bottom line you can wear discs out, probably sooner than you realise. and if i were to get new discs and not be overly fussed on performance and want more longevity, i would stay well clear of the aluminium sandwich designs with next to no thickness of actual breaking material as you'll wear through them a shed load quicker than a full thickness steel design
  • 1 0
 I've used shimano, hope and formula discs, and I found the shimano ones to be a bit thinner than the other two, noticeable like you say swapping wheels on the same day to test tyres. Also I found the hope discs to have the best friction properties, but also go a bit rusty which I guess is down to less chrome in the alloy. I only use formula now, because they seem to offer the best combination of friction and resistance to rusting. Just kidding. I got them for next to nothing.
  • 1 0
 @Scotj009: I've been using shimano rotors with Magura MT5s for years.. not the other way around though. Magura rotors are thicker than Shimanos.
  • 2 1
 @mnorris122: but that has nothing to do with SRAM rotors with XT brakes or vice versa. The author stats that the difference in thickness would cause an issue, which I am doubting. I agree with you, you dont want them to be too thin due to wear, but that wasnt really the conversation, but a valid point.
  • 1 0
 @topfuel564: Why is that? I'm running them on my Cycle cross commuter, doing 60kms a day and they've been flawless.
  • 1 0
 @Scotj009: I thought this, too, until I swapped a bent rear Magura rotor with a take-off SRAM rotor. I think the SRAM rotor is a little thinner than the Magura because I'm getting absolutely no brake rub now, whereas with the Magura rotor there was always some slight rub, no matter what I did. It's good to note that I'm still intact and have not had issues with the brake system at all since the swap which was about a month ago now. And yes, I have been riding it.
  • 1 0
 @Scotj009: I got 180mm magura rotors on shimano slx. Works great.
  • 1 0
 @tsheep: I'm just THAT fast.. haha
  • 25 0
 When I have a problem with my dropper extending I just pull out a photo of a “Unno Ever”, problem sorted, booooiiinnnng
  • 19 0
 Risk of altitude illness and the progression of symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) and injury beyond that are not so much due to the final altitude reached, but the rate of your ascent. Colorado is a very high risk example, considering folks often come from sea level to Denver (5280') and immediately drive to ski resorts (base areas on average are at 8-10,000') and from there take a lift of gondola to 12-13,000'+. Prevention is key and as Mike mentioned, hydration is extremely important. In addition to going easy with alcohol, avoid diuretics (caffeine being one). Acclimation with regards to how short-of -reath or out-of-shape you feel will won't be accomplished in the span of a short vacation, but the physiologic changes that occur to offset your risk of altitude illness will happen within three days given you don't continue ascending. Here's a link to some good resources: www.altitudemedicine.org
  • 3 0
 one more for staying hydrated, it's crucial. really pace yourself, too, especially on the ascent. personally, i never got much relief from oxygen canisters, but they're out there, along with some other random remedies. i tried to ride the day after i moved to summit county, CO. it was funny.
  • 7 0
 Can confirm.

I hit crested butte, steamboat & tressle before heading to Moab mast year with some friends.

The only stop we made between landing in Denver to hitting the 12500 ft was the dispensary. Didn't die or anything but would take it easier next time.
  • 11 1
 No alcohol, no caffeine, is why I skip high altitude vacations?
  • 1 0
 @jtayabji: the Mrs and I tried to bike a trail outside of Durango years ago. The locals dubbed the trailer “The Deathmarch” due to its ever increasing ascent. It wasn’t easy, but still fun. That was when we found out one of us takes longer to acclimate than the other.
  • 1 0
 A tip given to me was never go lactic at altitude because, if you aren't acclimated, you don't recover very well.
  • 1 0
 The rule of thumb I always heard was everything is 30% harder at elevation
  • 5 0
 @surfhard987: it's like a reverse ebike
  • 1 0
 Along with hydration be sure to get the electrolytes and salts in - hydration without those can be bad too. I've seen hyponatremia at altitude as people hydrate to the point of peeing away all their sodium and feeling even worse, based on the old 'clear and copious' chestnut.
  • 3 0
 I think the bigger problem he'll have in june in Switzerland at high altitude will be... SNOW. There have been lots of snow fall this year and unless pointing full south, I doubt it will be free of snow above 2500m.
  • 3 3
 @EnduroManiac: you bloody climate change denier!
  • 2 0
 I recall going to the Megavalanche Alpe d'Huez a while ago, coming from (below) sea level. Mostly riding between 2km and 3km above sea level, I soon realized why bicycle full face helmets have bigger vents for breathing than the MX helmet I was wearing Wink .

Taking a few days there definitely helps. First day is worst, after that the body quickly adapts.
  • 1 0
 @WAKIdesigns: I'm denying nothing. It really got colder Wink
I actually wish it did. I ´d be less grumpy with 3° less all year long!
  • 17 3
 1. no dropper, no problem
2. switzerland ain't got no mtns, dude
3. results? racin's 4 poosays
- who are much faster than me
- who are more manly than me
- who gots dem big dinguses
4. brakes slow u down, bruh. get an ebike
  • 18 2
 I change my pads three times a year, which mean rotors at least once per year, what am I a dentist.
  • 9 0
 Viagra is legitimately used for altitude sickness. Bring some with you and make the trip a win-win for you and your companion Wink
  • 21 0
 Awkward in a chamois
  • 23 1
 Viagra is also used for male burn victims. Keeps the sheets off.
  • 6 0
 Remember the good old days when rim brakes would crush the rim to concave...If you held out buying new ones for long enough lethal long sharp pieces would break off adding another technical element to the ride.....man I'm old.
  • 1 0
 I used to ride rims with holes in. Id look and think that the whole was not big enough to justify replacing. Scary sh!t.
  • 4 0
 high altitude never gets easier - you just get faster up there. This is what I have determined after living in CO for 4 years after spending the prior 30+ years in NY
  • 2 0
 I'm sorry but I disagree about your rotor theory. I have rarely ever matched rotors to brakes. There are a few aftermarket rotors to choose from. Brake power is dictated by lever piston to caliber piston ratio. When the rotors wear all calipers are designed to compensate As pads wear out the contact point changes.
  • 1 0
 A few things to correct. Brake rotor material DOES vary from brand to brand that is why brake pad compounds also vary between brands. That is why some Shimano rotors are resin pads only. Pad contact point shouldn't change as pads wear, on good brakes they are designed to self adjust the clearance gap, again that is why you need to push the pistons back when fitting new pads.
  • 1 1
 all hydraulic brakes compensate for pad wear.
Ever heard of after market brake pads?
Yes pad material and stainless steel composition plates a huge role in braking performance.
But mixing rotors will probably have no effect on brake performance.
  • 2 0
 @moonquake I was lucky enough to ride in Zermatt last year- there are lots of trails that can be accessed via gondola or tram that provide miles and miles (kilometers and kilometers?) of downhill enjoyment. If you get there and realized you’re not up for hard pedaling you can just take a tram up and coast down through the spectacular scenery.
  • 4 3
 I've got a question:

I have heard that the air in the suspension fork will heat up thus changing its pressure causing it to feel inconsistent throughout a run. so people say coil is better because it stays consistent.

So why don't they charge a fork with nitrogen. In aviation struts and tires are filled with nitrogen, this keeps it from changing pressure due to different altitudes and temperatures.

So why not run nitrogen?
  • 1 5
flag Scotj009 (May 29, 2018 at 13:29) (Below Threshold)
 Expensive. Dangerous. Some Shocks already have nitrogen charges not aware of any forks though, unless someone wants to enlighten me!
  • 16 0
 Because the average person doesn't have the equipment needed to pressurize forks or tires with nitrogen, and forks and tires are the kind of things you want to be able to easily vary the pressure in.
  • 8 1
 @Scotj009: [Some] Fox shocks use nitrogen in the IFP chamber, for the same reasons @rockchomper mentioned, but not the main spring chamber.

The expense and access if definitely the issue. And definitely not dangerous... our atmosphere is already around 70% nitogren.
  • 5 0
 That's kind of a half-truth. The air in a airspring will heat rapidly when compressed, but will then cool rapidly as it re-extends. The main factor for the heating of an airspring is the heating from friction around the airspring piston, which I imagine is a very minor effect given how well lubricated they are.
  • 3 1
 Half of the point of air in the shock is that its easy to adjust and change to your preference if you go with nitrogen you might as well just go coil
  • 38 0
 Air is 78% nitrogen already. Both air and nitrogen will change pressure with heating, as all gasses will. Using pure nitrogen in racing tires is done because it eliminates the other partial pressure elements (oxygen, CO2) that have slightly different expansion rates than nitrogen and make for a (slightly) less predictable system. So when F1 cars are messing with 2 tenths of a PSI in their tires, they prefer to only have one gas to deal with.

Aviation uses nitrogen because compressed air invariable contains water vapor, which freezes at altitude and can cause all sorts of issues in valves and seals. Also, removing oxygen helps with corrosion and flammability issues.

You can run nitrogen if you want, it's not going to hurt anything. It's just air is free, and while nitrogen is cheap, it's costs more than free.
  • 2 0
 Nitrogen will still heat up during the course of a run and create inconsistent feel. as @tsheep mentioned is does contain no moisture but the greatest benefit to filling up with pure nitrogen is that since the nitrogen molecules are larger than oxygen and other molecules in air they will escape the tires at a slower rate leading to a slower loss of pressure through the tire carcass.
  • 1 0
 the heat buildup during a run is probably something most people won't feel. The real downside for me is having to adjust the pressure every ride in the summer when the outside temperature varies between 20-30 °C. The SAG then varies up to 10 % in my fork, but maybe the fact that I'm on the lighter side makes this worse. Heavier friends don't seem to have the same problem.
  • 3 0
 Bro, here is the combined gas law. Do you see anything in there about the type of gas mattering? PV=nRT
  • 1 0
 So we run rock buggies, ultra 4 rock rigs, with big desert shocks and coilovers on them. We use nitrogen in them because they do have a lot of volume, and we have as much into shocks as we do expensive top-shelf bikes. It's not expensive, we just use a tank with a gauge/filler on it... gas is cheap. These shocks are smokin hot going through the desert, can't even touch them or the reservoirs.

But for a bike, I never use it there, like some say here, air is cheap, fill it up, go ride. Unless I was some world cup racer and could notice the difference or had a mechanic working my bike, no reason... and even after 4000 feet of descending, I can usually still at least touch my shock, they are hot, but not like a desert racer shock... so I don't think temp swings are that important in these little bike shocks. I could be wrong though.
  • 1 0
 @tsheep: Thank you for saving me the effort to explain this. In Canada, tire shops sell you nitrogen to inflate your car tires. After they put little green caps on to show the rest of the world how uneducated/gullible they are.
  • 1 0
 I've been running Ashima 203mm rotors with an older set of Avid XO stoppers with great results. The modulation is excellent and reliability is relevant to having a consistent service schedule. The new bike will have a set of Sram XO stoppers with Galfer 203mm plates. In my experience Shimano Ice Tech rotors are garbage and delaminate due to aluminum having a much lower melting point than steel. I will say that if you ever come across the Kettle Cycles carbon fiber rotors throw them in the trash or be prepared to die.
  • 2 0
 Well I’m running hope v4 brakes but I use shimano pads and rotors in them! The pads are much quieter and have more power. Had zero issues with this set up. Hope pads struggle for power and noise for me.
  • 1 0
 Say whaaaat? I assume the you are using Siant/Zee pads? Do you think they would fit in E4 calipers?
  • 2 0
 @Knuffle: yeah saint pads in them mate. Much better and cheaper. Not sure about the e4 though. Prob be perfect in them as they’re smaller than the v4 Pad.
  • 1 0
 @mikelee: great thanx for the feedback!
  • 1 0
 Rolled off the lift at Keystone a couple of years ago and peddled to the head of the first trail, never felt anything like it, thought i was dying, got much better as the day went on though.
  • 1 0
 My Zee's work poorly with RT66 rotors and way better with Avid G2cs. Both on Shimano metallic pads. Don't be afraid of trying before buying.
  • 2 0
 Except in this case, you have to buy in order to try...
  • 1 0
 @mrleach: well, what i meant was that he should try his existing rotors before buying new ones.
  • 1 0
 My Contact post did that and I put a bit of Rock and Roll Gold around seal and it worked a lot better.
  • 1 0
 I guess nobody told my SRAM Centerlines that they can't work with my SLX 7000s......
  • 1 0
 Altitude sickness and cerebral endema. In which case if you don't get to a lower elevation you may die.
  • 1 0
 HACE/HAPE are the after effects if altitude sickness isn't treated. Both are deadly in some cases.
  • 1 0
 what happened to the dropper post portion of the article? It's still in the link?
  • 2 1
 Why doesn't he just get an e-bike to go up the Alps? lol
  • 4 4
 I don’t agree with the changing of the rotors. What a money grab!!!
  • 1 3
 altitude sickness you say, I´ve spent a summer building a trail between 2200m and 2700m, just get enough energy and get used to
  • 1 2
 My ice tech rotors are wearing out, so sad.
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