|PB member Iffy's suggestion, that you need to bed in the brake pads to the rotors, was spot on. Five to ten hard braking efforts on a paved surface are necessary to match the new pads to the profile of the old rotors, but more importantly, the brake pad material must be transferred to the surface of the rotor before the brake can develop its maximum friction. SRAM's brake designers say that rotors that have been deposited with organic pad material will not function well if the system has been switched to sintered metallic pads and vice versa. I have not found this to be an issue, but most-often, I resurface the rotor's braking tracks with clean, 120-grit abrasive cloth in a circular motion to prepare them for the new pads. I suggest resurfacing the rotors and bedding in your brakes. Take care when you do this, however, as the edges of the rotors can become razor sharp. - RC|
Why don't my new brake pads stop well? When new pads are installed, they require a number of strong stops to mate the pads with the rotors.
|The debate over which flat pedal is the best is never ending - everyone seems to have a pair they swear by, and there isn't one perfect pedal that stands out as being head and shoulders above the rest. That being said, as far as traction goes, e*13's LG1+ pedals are some of the grippiest pedals I've ever used, and their platform is significantly wider than that of your V8s. I'd also recommend considering different shoes, a move that may let you continue running your V8s. The Teva Links are very comfortable and well constructed, but I found that their rubber compound was much less sticky than any of Five Ten's offerings. The Links' reliance on diamond shaped dimples on the sole of the shoe rather than an actual softer rubber compound makes it harder to find a secure perch unless those dimples are perfectly aligned with your pedal's pins. Other companies have tried, but Five Ten and their Stealth rubber still rein supreme when it comes to making the stickiest soles on the market. - Mike Kazimer|
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