Ask Pinkbike: Bent Hanger, Best Climbing AM Bike, and Enduro Fork Suggestions

Dec 1, 2015
by Pinkbike Staff  
Ask Pinkbike Header

Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.





Bent Hanger

Question: Pinkbike user ranger762 asked this question in the downhill forum: I need help adjusting my rear derailleur. I've lined up the pulley wheel with the small and large cogs, and adjusted the B-tension screw properly. It's shifting decent, but the chain won't stay on the second smallest cog. My derailleur hanger looks straight, but the derailleur itself isn't straight vertically when I look at it from behind. After some tinkering, I managed to get the shifting smooth up and down, except that it wants to skip when the chain is going up from the second smallest cog to the third smallest. Any suggestions?

bigquotesThe scenario where the shifting is perfect at one end of the range, but not so hot at the other has to be one of the most frustrating things for a home mechanic. This headache is usually caused by one of two things: either a slightly bent derailleur hanger, or contaminated shift cable and housing that's keeping the shifting from feeling consistent. Because you described your issue as happening when shifting up to a larger cog, and also mentioned that you spotted an angle to the derailleur itself, it's pretty likely that you're dealing things being out of alignment.

It's far more common for the hanger to be bent slightly rather than the derailleur - hangers are made to do exactly that - and when you say that you can see your derailleur isn't straight, what you're probably seeing is actually an extension of the hanger itself being bent. If it's out of alignment a small amount, it will cause the issues you've described above. Using your hand to pull the derailleur until it seems straight is not the correct way to go about repairing this, as you need to isolate the hanger by removing the derailleur and bolting on a hanger alignment gauge that uses your rim and an adjustable feeler gauge that tells you how much to pull it over. These tools are not inexpensive, but you can have a look at this old Tech Tuesday from 2010 if you'd like to have a go yourself, or just take it to your local bike shop and pay the professionals to do it. The other, less expensive option is to just buy a new derailleur hanger, and it never hurts to have a spare.
- Mike Levy

Shimano XTR Di2 2015
  Even the fanciest drivetrain can be brought down by a simple bent derailleur hanger.





Best AM Bike for Climbing?

Question: Dirtrooster asks in the All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: Does anyone have any experience with the new Scott Genius LT? I am looking for a better climbing mid-travel AM bike and the Genius sounds like it may fit the bill. Last year's bike reviewed as a great climber, but with the 170mm travel, surprisingly was not great going down. I don't do much fire road climbing but I do a lot of technical single track climbing - very technical - but I don't want to sacrifice the descent, which typically consists of fast, rocky, rooty, technical single track with plenty of jumps, big ass rollers and 6 plus foot drops. I may or may not get a dedicated DH rig for my dozen or so bike park days.

bigquotesScott's Genius LT 700 Tuned gives up a little in the descending department over some dedicated enduro machines like the Canyon Strive, Santa Cruz Nomad, and Yeti SB6c, but in the hands of a good bike handler (like I assume you are from the wording of your question), it will make short work of "fast, rocky, rooty, technical single track with plenty of jumps, big ass rollers and 6 plus foot drops." Few, if any all-mountain trail bikes in the 170-millimeter-travel class can touch the Scott's 27-pound weight figure, and its Twinloc remote suspension, combined with its steep seat angle, offer a measurable advantage for technical climbing. Flip the lever to "traction" and it reduces the rear travel and firms up the spring, so the tail-end won't sag and your body will remain in a more power-friendly position over the bike. If the Scott seems like too much of a compromise towards climbing, then I suggest you test ride the Nomad. It strikes a very good balance between technical ups and downs. - RC


Scott Genius LT 700 Tuned 2016
With its suspension-altering Twinloc remote and 27-pound weight, Scott's Genius LT 700 Tuned is one of the best climbers in the 170-millimeter travel arena.





Dual Crown Fork for Enduro Racing?

Question: Pinkbike user lv277 asked this question in the All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country Forum: I was wondering if anyone has any experience having a dual crown fork for an enduro bike. I am almost about to buy a new bike for enduro that I would use for racing as well. It has an Ohlins rear shock and a BoXXer Team fork. Both with 180mm travel. Basically, I'm wondering if its a good idea to have the BoXXer fork - I've never seen anyone race with one before, even though it would be helpful for the downhill sections. Any thoughts or ideas?


bigquotesCoil sprung rear shocks may be trending in the enduro world, but I would highly recommend against running a dual crown fork. Why? In addition to the additional weight (a BoXXer Team weighs roughly two pounds more than a Pike), that limited turning radius is going to be a detriment on certain tracks. Enduro race courses tend to be twistier and tighter than a full-blown downhill track, and you'll want all the help you can get navigating around those sharp corners.

I'd recommend selling the BoXXer and replacing it with a single crown fork, something like a Fox 36 or a RockShox Lyrik, both proven performers that are available with 180mm of travel. You don't mention what bike you're purchasing, but if it's the Specialized Enduro, one of the few bikes I can think of that has that much travel and an Ohlins shock, you'll want to budget for a dropper post, and more than likely swap the 36 tooth chainring out for something a little more pedal-friendly. - Mike Kazimer

Australian National Series - Bike Checks
Jared Graves poses with his enduro bike turned DH race machine.



Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.


110 Comments

  • + 193
 If you put a dual crown fork on an enduro bike, you've just entered the realm of DOWNDURO
  • + 23
 Endownhill... Well, someone had to say it.
  • + 59
 Dual crown DH bikes climb great, just add a dropper post and MTFU.
  • - 7
flag AZRyder (Dec 1, 2015 at 20:02) (Below Threshold)
 I assume the guy in the question is talking about the Specialized Enduro Expert Evo. It has 180mm front and rear and uses a shortened boxxer. I'd rather have the boxxer. The stiffness of a dual crown can always help, unless your'e not man enough to pedal it up.
  • - 73
flag defineindecline (Dec 1, 2015 at 20:11) (Below Threshold)
 Wait...what about Down Syndrome?
  • + 10
 I have NEVER had a dual crown fork prevent me from steering tight enough
  • + 25
 Graves' bike in that photo has got to be the sexiest bike I've seen though...
  • - 7
flag fuzzwuzz (Dec 1, 2015 at 22:03) (Below Threshold)
 enduro downhill
  • + 1
 I have never once struggled to get my DH bike to the peak....
  • - 6
flag seismicninja (Dec 1, 2015 at 22:45) (Below Threshold)
 Not cool bro
  • + 1
 I beleive i have created a freeduro bike
  • + 0
 endurhill?
  • + 5
 That's called a 2005 DH rig.
  • + 1
 @hamncheez you must ride a lot of park because this happens to me all the time.
  • - 1
 I think he was talking about an Enduro Evo, which is more of a park bike than an enduro racer
  • + 2
 Curtis and Dylan are probably the ones to answer the question.
  • + 1
 @Nathan-MTB knows what's up
  • + 66
 Dear RC Can I put a 888 on a beach cruiser ? also i still need to remount the pink wicker basket!
  • + 14
 The basket will work better with a shiver
  • + 5
 there is a 888 on Naz' cruiser.. and its badass..
  • + 2
 @ithomas
I'd ride that.
  • + 2
 I'm specifically going to hang on to my Shiver, when I finally retire it, to build a sweet cruiser around it
  • + 42
 C'mon guys stop making fun. I'm sure there was a point in everyone's biking obsession where they wanted a dual crown on everything. I can remember vividly discovering that I couldn't put a boxxer on my 400 dollar Jamis kids bike.
  • + 14
 I saw a kid riding a rockhopper or hardrock with a boxxer slapped on the front of it at the local trail network.... I couldn't tell if his bottom bracket was shot or if it was the headset pleading for mercy...
  • + 4
 Totally feel you, man. I remember wanting a dual crown on my old, beat to crap heckler so badly. Hahaha.
  • + 6
 Here I frequently see hardtails rocking a 180mm zoom fork that just doesn't work. They ride the trails like grannies and have a hard time climbing. But each to their own as I always say :/
  • + 8
 I'm sure some of the older people here remember others putting a Super T on an Evil Imperial. Ah, simpler times.
  • + 4
 When I was broke in college, I ran a boxxer on a Fetish hardtail. But then, I was less broke and ran a 888 and boxxer on a Norco hardtail. A lot of us have been there. Then again, my current ride is a Chromag with a 36, so I guess maybe I'm partial to the long travel hardtail.
  • + 23
 Another answer to the last question. The bike he is looking at (the enduro evo) isn't an enduro bike at all. It's specialized's free ride ish bike. The reason it has a dual crown is because it is ment for the bike park not your local enduro event. + it's been ridden at rampage.
  • - 29
flag gnarbar (Dec 1, 2015 at 18:05) (Below Threshold)
 twin crown on an enduro bike? lol noobs
  • + 25
 Specialized has been putting dual crowns on their ENDUROs for years.. You're the noob.
  • + 10
 Spesh's "dual crown" fork from around 08 had like 150mm of travel and it kinda rode like shit so
  • - 7
flag makripper (Dec 1, 2015 at 20:16) (Below Threshold)
 2016 Enduro Evo has a boxxer and ohlins. Pretty sure what the guy is referring to in this stupid article hahahha
  • - 6
flag gnarbar (Dec 1, 2015 at 20:16) (Below Threshold)
 and the Enduro's rode like shit, too
  • - 6
flag Drbillin (Dec 1, 2015 at 22:22) (Below Threshold)
 Not to mention with the capability of ~160 travel bikes and dual crowns, the Spec Enduro Expert EVO is kind of a lost child in the bike world. Personally I'd find ANY bike in same price range (C-level Nomad is much less than Enduro EVO at MSRP) or similar, upgrade parts as you break em... The minimal gains in 'performance' with that bike are irrelevant when compared with a Nomad or similar.

YT Capra - the top-level spec is similar MSRP to Enduro Expert EVO and exponentially better on many levels.

No one has mentioned yet, but the Enduro Evo spec has overall poor parts for Enduro racing - general part spec not friendly to uphill pedalling / enduro racing: Big chainring, 11-36 10spd cassette, heavy DH rims... Also terrible company, sub-par products, outdated frame. Do some simple research, who has all-external routing, mostly alloy, at that price-point anymore? Qualified verdict = not worth the money, spend it elsewhere... Or wait till Spec updates their circa 2010 Enduro frameset - why anyone still buys these at full price with other options available blows my mind.
  • + 3
 IMHO they just work, nothing wrong with not changing something that works.
  • + 2
 @Drbillin. . . . You ever owned or even ridin the Enduro Evo ? I would guess not! ! ! ! Let's talk about parts . . SRAM guide RS dh (can't even buy them) XO drivetrain. DT Swiss hubs with spez copy of FR570 rims. Ohlins shock (best period) boxer spring charger damper fork. . . Etc. . . ! We can all hate Spez but get your facts straight first! ! ! This bike in the right hands does everything!
  • + 5
 @Drbillin To say that the Capra is better in every way negates the quality control issues that YT has. I love what YT is doing to the industry but I would consider them a tier 2 bike company at this point. Until they can develop a track record for delivering bikes on time that don't crack I'll hold off. I know all mountain bikes break (though they seem to have more issues) which is precisely why buying from an LBS makes more sense for me.

Having tested numerous VPP bikes (ie Bronson, Nomad) against 4-bar systems I've always ended preferring the latter. YT agrees which is why they have a horst-link minus the ability to put a water bottle in your frame. Yes I own an Enduro and no I didn't pay full-price for it. Side note: internal cable routing and alloy doesn't mean a bike is inferior.
  • + 0
 Coastal Crew on Enduro Evos

www.pinkbike.com/video/410174
  • + 12
 Why are allways suspension products from Rock Shox an Fox recommended, when there are other options that might work even better? XFusions Metric, for example, should be close to perfect for lv277 if he wants a DH like fork with more than 160mm travel...
  • + 5
 Mainstream has the benefit of availability (service, spares)
  • + 4
 True, but in my experience X-Fusion answers quick to emails and have the shit you need.
  • + 1
 The Mrp Stage has been Super solid for me and its set at 170mm, great customer service though i've only used it to ask a setup question.
  • + 14
 Jared's DH6c is probably the best looking object in the history of ever.
  • + 6
 Damn thing broke the internet for a couple minutes, if I recall correctly.

However - doing something "because Gravesy does it" might be the worst reason ever, as the guy isn't mortal.
  • + 10
 I bought a used Park hanger alignment tool from my LBS a few years ago and it was the best $40 I've ever spent. Nice tools are expensive but assuming they aren't phased out by "technology" they more than pay for themselves. Plus it just looks rad hanging in my garage.
  • + 8
 Another cause for that shifting problem. If theres a cassette that has loose cogs on an alloy freehub body. The cogs can bite, an get driven into the body so the shifting profile of the teeth ends up out of sequence. Happened on my 4X rig, with a ultegra cassette on an alloy body. My gate cog was driven nearly all the way through the cog slots! Way out of sequence, I could only ever get the gears to shift up, or down on that cog. Never both. Took me ages to figure it out too!
  • + 1
 did someone say hope alloy freehub. Bane of the gatestarter.
  • + 1
 mine was the other four letter starting with H company Smile but, yea replaced with Hope trials hub with 6speed steel freehub
  • + 7
 @ranger762 - if you can find a demo day, give the Kona process 153 (or 134) a go.
I never used to care about climbing ability till I jumped on the process and realised climbing can actually be enjoyable/rewarding. Best part is the process does great on the downhill ( previously ridden Giant Reigns and Specialized Enduros ( both 26'er versions.)

Been riding my process 153 for about 6 months and still loving it.
  • + 7
 I live for technical climbing and all day mountain riding. I ride a 2014 Enduro 29 The key is using a dual position Pike. I ride in the lower 130mm position 90% of the time and raise it up to 160mm for the gnarlier downhills. A lot of flow style trails I just keep it down as I prefer the quicker more nimble feel. The best part is I built a remote handlebar lever so I can change it on the fly. I'm surprised the dual position forks have fallen out of favor because this setup works perfect. If I leave it in the upper position which would be stock for most E29's, sure you can ride up hill but you can't climb serious gnar nearly as well. It makes the bike for me.
  • + 1
 Dual positions have several tuning limitations that solo forks don't (Talas & Pike) but I wouldn't trade mine for the world. Just gotta remember to get out of the low travel mode before going down otherwise it's pedal strike central.
  • + 2
 Or just deal with it. You just have to get used to climbing with a slack bike and then you can get up all the same stuff.
  • + 8
 That dude's for sure going for a Specialized Enduro Expert Evo. That bike rips and let's say it pedals surprisingly well for its travel. Get a fox 36 and an air shock, happy shredding day in and day out.
  • + 6
 Exactly. Pretty much rocket scientology
  • + 6
 170mm of travel doesn't make it climb any better, so whats the point of carrying the weight if it's not as fast as some shorter travel bikes coming down? Surely there'd have to be a bike with less travel that can climb and descend just as well.
  • + 5
 Used to be the suggestion was to simply thread a 10mm axle rear wheel into the hanger and tweak until straight. Guess no one has a standard axle rear wheel at hand these days.
  • + 2
 How can a bike that requires the rear to be locked out for climbing be a great technical climber? Doesn't make sense to me. Rather get something that climbs decently without a lockout, so that your suspension is actually working on the ups, eg. the suggested Nomad, or an Ibis Mojo.
  • + 1
 @ranger762- this might be relevant/irrelevant. i was having the same kind of problem a few years back. turned out to be a pretty simple fix-replace and lengthen your housing. or it's a bent hanger, or a worn out cassette, or...
  • + 1
 As far as a bike that climbs crazy well, really loving my Guerrilla Gravity Mega Trail. Used it at the Trans Cascadia this year and no complaints and regularly do rides that have 3,500 ft of climbing and tons of descent(10-18k) and its a ripping all around machine. Former Nomad owner of 6 years too and its night and day over the nomad. And with a MRP stage on the front set at 170mm, C'ant complain there. Lots of great bikes out there all depends on fit and geo preference though..different strokes.
  • + 1
 That's what I'm talkin' about! I just can't stand those stupid components. That Brain shock is NOT any good! I've spent hours on 2 different frames what that shock, and it's nothing compared to my Fox Float X, or an Inline Double Barrel CS. Those frames will never see a rear shock like those, because you can't switch. That's what I mean, it's shit. Their hubs and wheels are garbage too. Same for Giant. And Trek's DRCV keeps you from improving that shock too. I had an EX 8 that would improve with a Float X, but NOPE!
  • + 1
 1 question: Put a 5mm allen key into the mount screw of rear deraileur, and with help of monkey wrench you'll have straight mech hanger. Look at it from behind on the 3rd or 4th of bigger cogs and find a point,where it's straight. No disassembling, no special tools, just a simple precedure. If you have a long allen key, like in the bike services, you wont need monkey wrench- they provide enough torque to do the job.
  • + 4
 Seriously technical climbing hard to beat Specialized for active suspension under full power.
  • + 3
 Not really since the patent is up and you can get a ton of different bikes with a true Horst link design now.
  • + 1
 I had a bent hanger. Tried straightening it with a crescent wrench and it was better but not perfect. Bike store wanted $25 to straighten it with their fancy tool so I bought a brand new one for the same price and keep the slightly bent one in the pack just in case. Shifting with the new hanger is crisp and precise. Good times.
  • + 1
 When getting back up hangers, go ahead and have the alignment checked before throwing them in your pack, they rarely are perfectly straight right out of the packaging. Even when they are, it is highly unlikely your well ridden frame is still as perfectly aligned as it was outta the box, requiring your new hanger to be adjusted to your slightly off alignment.
  • + 4
 If you are looking for an AM/ enduro bike that can climb look no further than the pivot Mach 6.
  • + 3
 Hey RC how does the RFX you just reviewed compare with the Scott and Nomad in terms of going up? Inquiring minds want to know.
  • + 5
 Yeah, suprised there was no mention of this, the Mach 6, or the HD3.
  • + 1
 Really surprising that there was no mention of a DW link bike. I've never regarded the genius or nomad as being a bike that climbs good
  • + 3
 Agree with skeen95. DW-link bikes climb amazingly well. VPP bikes climb great until, whoops, you actually have to ride over technical rocks and the ol' pedal kickback starts to happen.
  • + 1
 I'm riding a M6 and a Nomad 3 right now... Totally different bike I prefer the M6 on tight rollin terrain and the Nomad for dropping the nuke. That said if I could only have one the Nomad would be the weapon since its all about the downs...
  • + 4
 "it's all about the downs..."
And yet here we are, commenting on a post about AM technical climbing.
  • + 4
 Ahh my bad just commenting on how I feel about m6 vs nomad overall.. If you got your technique down both bikes are a blast to climb with. The Dw gets the nod for that quick out of the saddle, change of direction tech climbing, its like all wheel drive. Its really tough to choose all these bikes are so good.
  • + 3
 .Apparently PB don't do head to head comparos, even though that's what we've been asking for forever (like the car magazines do). Come on guys, it's not like you don't get ride every bike that's out. Read any issue of Car and Driver from the last 2 years please, that's what we want. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc., and pluses and minuses. Why not?
  • + 1
 @McNubbin Get an issue of Mountain Bike Action Magazine. They do head-to-head comparisons pretty often
  • + 1
 It may not be a bent hanger...

It very well could be (especially if it used to shift well), but don't forget it could be a bad chain line (if you've just put on new cranks or different brand chain rings).

So before bending hangers or derailleur cages check what's going on at the cranks... Is your chainline right? And what front ring are you in when the derailleur looks bent (if you have a double or triple ring up front).
  • + 1
 always check the hanger first, it is easiest to check, fix, and is the issue 99% of the time. Kink in the cable/housing represents .9% of the rest of time, with .1% reserved for weird shit.
  • + 0
 I found that shifting is better with a billet after market hanger because they are more rigid. I've always bought mine directly from North Shore Billet. The best $25 you can spend on your bike! Your old hanger can be straightened by removing and putting it on an anvil and tapping it flat with a hammer, then checking to see if it's perfectly flat by laying it on a pane of glass and looking for a gap.
  • + 1
 Seen many times this bad idea, ending worse... Hangers are meant to be soft for a reason..
  • + 3
 Carry a spare hanger and a multitool,pike and it's all about you and your inner beast,done
  • + 16
 Got it. Carry a spare pike. Thanks
  • + 1
 well, as for me, il instal fox 40 to my intense uzzi in the end of the season, and now i dont know and dont want to go back to fox 36 ... much better with 200 in front
  • + 2
 I must need to ride that Scott Genius LT... if it climbs better than a SB6 then it must pedal like a XC bike haha...
  • + 1
 @Dirtrooster you need to buy a Warden. I can't believe @RichardCunningham didn't suggest it. The pinkbike review of the Warden called it the best climbing bike out there.
  • + 1
 For the first question, it wouldn't hurt to check if all the teeth on the cog are straight and not bent. One bent tooth could make it want to shift either up or down.
  • + 1
 I'm actually looking at a 2014 Carbon Jekyll frame to try out, coincidentally. What's your experience overall?
  • + 2
 3 friends have this. Climbs better than my spectral as they all have the Dual Position Pike... those 3cm are nailing it.
  • - 1
 I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Cannondale Jekyll as a great pedaling AM bike. With the dyad rear shock it really is like pedaling an xc bike on the way up, and its super plush on the way down.
  • + 10
 Maybe not mentioned because it's a Cannondale?
  • + 1
 I test rode the Jekyll since I am looking for an AM bike, the climbs were really exhausting when compared to my Stumpy EVO, at first I thought it was a hindrance due to the slacker HT angle which in theory is an improvement for the decent, but when I tried the DH section the bike was a mess, I just couldn't control it as much as I can control the stumpy or other AM bikes. Just waiting to test ride the SB6c and I will make the decision, but the Jekyll was not what I had expected.
  • + 1
 You could also probably try to bend the der. hanger using an adjustable wrench but requires some precision
  • + 1
 As long as the "Big Yellow Letters" don't say Specialized.......
  • + 1
 I think Graves needs more teal!
  • - 1
 Specialized, drink the Koolaid.... Ignore changing any of your components... Stuck with Garbage.
  • + 5
 I'm having doubts Mr McG. Maybe you can set me straight.

I've been hating on specialized since 1985. Powerful marketing and expensive products. Remember their Turbo tires? The brain shock?

And I went and researched dropper posts two years ago and ended up with a used control post and its been wonderful.

And I just went shopping last week for a new seat so I can spend the winter on a trainer without my jimmy going numb. Tried out 4 seats (take home and try) and by far the most comfortable for me was the Phenom Comp. I'm still shaking my head at that because the local spesh shop is just so clueless and I hate giving them money.

Anyhoo, finding myself happy with two of their parts is making me rethink my dis-spesh-like. I'll now probably consider them when I need a new bike because someone there is doing things well.
  • + 3
 I love my stumpy FSR. But the main reason I have a stumpy is because it was $1000 off and had a carbon front triangle. It did have the noisy vibrating aluminum seat stays, but they were warrantied with the carbon version and I couldn't be any happier. The formula brakes that came on it got tossed for XT's but that was going to happen no matter what. All the other stuff like a dropper, shorter stem, and wider bars are mostly just personal preference. I would have liked it to come with a dropper stock but oh well. That just gave me a chance to get something better. Bottom line is it's a great bike. It goes up pretty good and goes down pretty good too. Like my mom always says, just try it at least once and if you don't like it then you don't have to eat it.
  • + 13
 Hehe.. "goes down pretty good too like my mom". Sorry, couldn't resist.
  • + 6
 I did kinda walk into that one.
  • + 3
 What I was referring to are the most important components, like the shock. I love the Enduro, but you're stuck with that proprietary shock. There are dozens of CCDB shocks for sale on PB, but the only buyers are Enduro owners that probably already have that shock. I just wouldn't want a bike that has one brand name on every component on it, even the damn tires... 90% of riders in my area are on Specialized bikes, that's the reference to 'Koolaid'... So I chose an American brand, and in my opinion the best climbing AM frame, the Transition Covert CF. and I've had the only 2 Coverts in my area. My sister and girlfriend, 90% of my friends ride Specialized, so I like the brand, I just like being different.
  • + 1
 @captaingrumpy

I had a very strong dislike for specialized as well, but i liked the specialized shop the best.

I only tried specialized tires and saddles because the specialized shop guys are badasses and gave me a money back guarantee. I liked them so much i never returned them and then bought phenoms for all my bikes.

They also happen to have santacruz, so when i ended up getting my nomad from them i asked them about getting a lighter/wider wheelset. (I got the cheapest x1 build at the time) they recommended the roval traverse fattie aluminum rims. Same deal, offered a money back guarantee so i tried them. They've also been super awesome.

When i got my swat water bottle cage and chainbreaker topcap they were a neat idea. When i need them on the trail they're irreplaceable.

My specialized ryme shoes were the best fitting and most comfortable shoes ive ever tried.

Specialized seems to have some awesome stuff lately and they have the best warranty.

Still can't bring myself to buy a specialized bike, though. Their proprietary standards can go to hell.
  • + 0
 @BrianMcG you clearly haven't looked at the Specialized line in a LONG time, because they don't run proprietary shocks and haven't since about '08 or '09.

Your tire argument is a joke. Your mad because they put their logo on their products? What do you run, Maxxis? What does it say on the side of their tires? In big yellow letters.
  • + 1
 Current enduro runs a proprietary sized shock..
  • + 1
 It sucks that the choices for a rear shock are limited but when the shock needs to be rebuilt send it to PUSH Industries. They will do a complete rebuild and add high speed and low speed compression for 300 USD and it will be better than new. I have an enduro evo with the Fox van r and that's what I'm doing.
  • + 1
 First of all, I'm not mad, I have a better brand frame that allows me to use whatever I want. And Maxxis is a great brand as well. So is Sun Ringle, Anvl, WTB, Fox ect.. I'm just saying I want to improve the ride, and you can't if you buy Specialized. And yes, they still use proprietary shocks in 2015. There's no way I would use a frame model from 2008 to make a point in 2015, haha. And no, this ain't an argument, it's just, like, my opinion, Man.....
Below threshold threads are hidden

Post a Comment



Copyright © 2000 - 2017. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.063242
Mobile Version of Website