Ask Pinkbike - Rotor Diameter vs. Stopping Power, Dropper Post Length, Broken Chain Mystery, and Tires for UK Winter

Dec 9, 2014
by Pinkbike Staff  
Ask Pinkbike Header

Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.



Bigger Isn't Always Better

Question: Pinkbike user Layman asked this question in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: Why would anybody run anything other than the largest rotor? Other than a weight penalty, which is minimal, I can't see a disadvantage to going with a larger rotor. Am I missing something?

bigquotesA larger diameter rotor will offer more power thanks to the added leverage that it provides, and it will also deal with heat better during long, hard descents like you'd do on a downhill bike, but outright power isn't always the only concern. Most people will cite weight as the reason for going with a smaller rotor, but I'd argue that using rotor size to tune how your brakes feel is the real reason to go down in size - a smaller rotor will offer a more controllable feel at the lever, which is especially important when riding in low-traction conditions. For example, in the summer I'll often use a fast rolling tire on the back of my bike and the trails can be a bit dusty and loose. My Shimano brakes have quite a bit of initial bite to them that can cause me to lock up my wheels unexpectedly when I'm pushing hard, but going from an 8'' rotor to a 6'' rotor gives me back a lot of that control. Yes, there isn't as much power on tap when using the smaller rotor, but the modulation that I get outweighs that loss in my mind. After all, almost everyone's brakes are more than powerful enough so long as you're using them as intended. That said, I'd prefer to run 8'' rotors anytime I'm in a bike park for the power and heat management. The one other thing to keep in mind is that some older forks with quick-release dropouts are not compatible with large rotors. - Mike Levy

Saint s new ICE Tech ultimate clad rotor

Brakes feeling a bit too grabby? Moving down a rotor size can add more feel and control, especially if you're often riding in wet or dusty conditions.





Choose the Correct Dropper Post

Question: SWolbeck asks in the All-Mountain and Cross-Country Forum: I am looking to surprise my husband with a RockShox Reverb seatpost for Christmas. He has a 2012 Santa Cruz Carbon Nomad. I need help deciding on the size of the seatpost. I know he needs a 30.9 diameter. Can the 2012 Nomad accommodate the 125mm, or is the 100mm safer - and if so, what length would I go with (355mm, 380mm, or 420mm)?

bigquotes Droppers are longer than conventional seatposts because they need room for their telescoping innards. Because the seal-head restricts maximum insertion, some longer travel dropper posts cannot be lowered enough to achieve proper saddle height if the frame is tall, or the rider's legs are too short. The 2012 Santa Cruz Nomad has a straight seat tube, so all three travel options of the RockShox Reverb dropper post will fit the frame. You mentioned in a follow-up post that your husband was five feet, nine inches tall. Experience as a custom frame builder tells me that his inseam will be close to 32 inches, which suggests that 120-millimeter option is going to be your choice.

Pushed down to the seal-head in the frame, the 150-millimeter option may be too tall at full extension to allow your husband to achieve his correct saddle height. The 100-millimeter option does not give most riders enough drop for proper descents and is typically used when the rider is too short to achieve proper seatpost extension, or when the seat tube design limits the distance that the post can be inserted into the frame. I also have a 32-inch inseam and, while I can ride a 150-millimeter Reverb on most test bikes, the post is usually slammed to maximum insertion. The 120-millimeter Reverb, however, leaves me at least three centimeters of seatpost adjustment to play with below the post's seal-head in the worst scenarios, so the 120 would be the safe bet in your case. - RC

GT Force L3

When choosing a dropper post, get the longest stroke model that you can ride. Before you buy, however, first check that the post can be inserted far enough in your frame to achieve your correct saddle height. If this GT Force's frame was any taller, I would not have been able to lower my saddle enough to ride the bike when the Reverb was fully extended.





Broken Chain Blame

Question: Pinkbike user Poacherx2 asked this question in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: I took my bike to a reputable bike shop for some maintenance. I have a full '07 XTR crank, derailleur and cassette. I asked them to fit an XTR chain but they didn't have one in stock at the time. The lad I spoke to suggested that the SRAM one they had in stock would suffice and that it was a bit cheaper. After 3 or 4 rides to and from work and a ride at Gisburn Forest over the course of 3 months the chain snapped on one side. The chain caught the derailleur and snapped it in half and snapped the hanger too. I took it back to the shop and they put the breakage down to wear and tear. I've had the bike for 5 years, always had XTR chains and never had a problem until this. Do I have grounds to have them replace the broken components free of charge? The chain shouldn't have snapped with as little use as it had.


bigquotesI've seen countless iterations of the this scenario during the years I spent working as a wrench. A customer purchases a part, and a few months later comes in with it in pieces, expecting a full refund, since it broke when they were 'just riding along.' It's a tricky scenario - as a shop employee, you want to give the customer the benefit of the doubt, but at the same time, a shop won't remain in business very long by shelling out free parts every time something breaks.

In your case, more than likely the chain breaking and the resulting drivetrain destruction was simply an unlucky coincidence, and it's neither the shop nor SRAM's fault. Of course, a chain should last more than a handful of rides, and the majority of the time they do, but it only takes one hard shift to load the chain at an awkward angle and bend it, or one rock strike to accomplish the same thing, and then after a few more miles the weakened link gives up for good. Being willing to compromise is your best bet in a situation like this - you might not be able to get a free derailleur and chain, but the shop may install the replacement parts at no cost, or give you a discount on the new components. If you want to go with the glass half full approach, this might just be the excuse you need to upgrade your drivetrain - maybe a 10 speed cassette, shifter, and clutch-equipped derailleur are in your future? The clutch feature alone makes this a worthy upgrade, it just depends on how much money you want to spend on a seven year old bike. - Mike Kazimer


No chain from the top of the track and riding like a man possessed Neko Mullally managed to finish 4rth today. Just 1.5secoff out of the medals and just 2 sec away from the win. What could have been.

Snapped chains happen, something Neko Mulally knows all too well, but it didn't stop him from getting 4th place at the 2014 DH World Championships.





Tire Choice for British slop.

Question: Pinkbike user Titaniumtit asked this question in the Bike, Parts and Gear Forum: After sliding around like a wet fish in a skating bowl, and not knowing too much about tires, I am wondering what 2.2" mud spikes to go with that aren't too draggy when in between trails? Also ones that are not too heavy so what is acceptable weight? Compound wise, I'm thinking the stickier the better, to ride every day XC/hardcore trail and spot of light DH usage on them without being overkill?


bigquotesIt sounds like you are looking for grip and performance over weight and pedaling speed. For the rear, I would suggest a Specialized Storm in the Control casing, I spent a lot of time on a Storm last year with great success, at 2.0 inches, it is a little narrower than you asked for, but this will help to cut through thick mud and get the tire biting. The medium compound and short, widely spaced spikes clear well, and also roll surprisingly well on road and hard-pack. For the front wheel, Maxxis Shorty's are finally available in the UK in a variety of sizes. For a 27.5" wheel, a 2.3" MaxTerra Exo, weighing 865grams should offer plenty of volume for stability, cushioning and absorption at the business end of your bike. The 3C MaxTerra will be soft on the rocks and roots, and will be spiky enough to dig in to the mud. Of course, there are many different options and opinions about tires, but If you don't want to spent hours banging your frozen knuckles off spokes to swap tires every week for changing conditions, this combination should see you through the multitude of Britain's best winter weather conditions. - Paul Aston

Maxxis Shorty

The Maxxis Shorty should make a great all-rounder in a British Winter.




Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.


185 Comments

  • 245 10
 A wife that buys you a Reverb for Christmas...tell me more.
  • 76 11
 Does she have a sister?
  • 28 46
flag fecalmaster (Dec 9, 2014 at 14:20) (Below Threshold)
 Is it true women prefer a larger disk diameter?
  • 48 11
 (face palm ) hence the name fecalmaster.......
  • 3 39
flag giangnguy3n (Dec 9, 2014 at 14:55) (Below Threshold)
 Fecal above said if you want to feel it smaller diameter is best.
  • 8 32
flag northcut21 (Dec 9, 2014 at 16:57) (Below Threshold)
 My girlfriend got me a 125mm reverb. I even got it early cause she knows when I get it between my legs theres no way theres gonna be room for her for the 3 weeks.
  • 1 15
flag chyu (Dec 9, 2014 at 19:50) (Below Threshold)
 Definitely a keeper. If he ever cheat.
  • 32 2
 I tell ya, some of the kids on this site these days...
  • 5 0
 My wife bought me a Reverb as a wedding gift. I am not in rush to divorce her...
  • 4 0
 Thats nice and I don't mean to brag but I scored a new Ducati Monster out of my wedding.^^
  • 3 0
 Wife swap?
  • 2 0
 Naw, that was her only condition. Turns out I'm hers for life…^^
  • 2 1
 Ya don't get your little diameter disk twisted.
  • 88 1
 Probably won't be a surprise now...
  • 65 1
 Now I want a wife
  • 55 3
 It's a big lottery man, you can score a Reverb buying jackpot, or a flat tyre giving you pain inthe butt before and after every ride
  • 29 1
 With all the money you save being single, you could buy your own dropper. Unless, she's a sugar mama...
  • 24 0
 Sugar mama FTW
  • 8 18
flag FuTAnT (Dec 9, 2014 at 15:51) (Below Threshold)
 Whinging, bitching, moaning, complaining and general all out control over your life aren't worth a free Reverb post ... you know not that you ask for! You want a girlfriend, not a wife.
  • 4 0
 Can't complain. My wife bought me a Kuat NV for my birthday.
  • 6 1
 Well ok, nice gift so get a wife, right? But what is it actually costing him? Think about it first....
  • 16 1
 @WAKI: nah the pain in the butt after every ride is if you get a husband Wink
  • 3 0
 If your lady doesn't like it when you ride you should DEFINITELY not marry her. Recipe for disaster guaranteed.
  • 2 0
 Sounds like you had a wife that WASN'T the Reverb buying kind.
  • 1 0
 That's was supposed to be for @futant
  • 10 0
 Wife bought me a 2014 remedy for Christmas. I wanted a wife and kids even more than a bike. I don't regret it, and my wife knows she and the family come first so she isn't threatened by my love for my bike. Means she goes out of her way to make sure I get saddle time and is proud of my hobby and lifestyle. Choose well and be worth choosing by someone and you can have it good.
  • 4 0
 Just got a 2014 Remedy and I was torn over the decision to purchase it and my girlfriend who I've known since we were young but never got together until last year told me to get it and not to worry that it would be her gift to me. That's awesomeness all the way, I feel very blessed indeed to have her in my life.
  • 39 3
 British winter tyres? Same as British Summer tyres, High Roller front, Larsen TT rear, if you're sliding too much, let go of the brakes!
  • 2 0
 Word
  • 1 1
 Do you put smaller rotors with your larsen? I can't see it under your British mud.
  • 27 0
 Pretty much what I was going to say. British winter conditions are the same as British summer conditions, but the rain isn't as warm.
  • 2 0
 Ok in mud and not too draggy between times - Maxxis Beaver surely?!
  • 1 0
 My thought exactly, I reckon it rains in the UK 80% of the year, my choice was always maxxis swamp thing super tacky on the front and pretty much whatever on the back as its just going to be sliding half the time... At least with the chalk rock on the south coast.
  • 1 0
 Hmm. I've been toying with the idea of HR2 on the front and Ardent on the back. Larsen has thrown a spanner in the works! I'm sure either will be better than my Rubber Queens in the wet!
  • 2 0
 i run hans dampf f+r all year round on my trail bike (or hans dampf front, high roller rear the moment as i can't afford another hans dampf)
  • 17 1
 I've still got a 24" on the back, and I use a 203 disc on there. Stick that in your Enduro pipes boys. *falls off barstool*
  • 21 5
 Holy hell is that GT ugly.
  • 13 0
 Ay I'm PB Famous! Lol

I opted for Intense 2.25" spikes in sticky rubber. Ok ok so theyve added 800 grams combined and they fedl draggy as fook but are quite confident and agressive for changing lines.
  • 1 0
 Where did you get the intenses from? Got a mate whos after some but can't find any anywhere
  • 1 0
 I've got a brand new ITS spike that has been sitting around for a year or so unused that I can sell off. Have opted for the Shorty now as its much better all round tyre, so I don't have to change it as much
  • 1 0
 I had the same problem trying to decide which winter tyres to by after getting fed up with sliding around like bambi on ice and have gone for panaracer cg soft conditions tyres, 2.1 rear and 2.3 front. Bargain from Evans cycles and an absolute revelation out in the loam and mud. Great tyres. Always worth looking past the mainstream stuff.
  • 9 1
 Fully concur with the rotor diameter point. I switched out my 160mm rear rotor on my Demo to a 203mm. It ended up way too strong with XT brakes for my lighter weight and locked up as soon as I touched the lever. Ended up with a lot of sliding not rolling during a day at Whistler. Changed it back and all was well and modulateable again. Mike Levy's point proven with real-life testing.
  • 3 0
 good to see this point come up, always struggled to get anyone to believe it
  • 1 0
 the friction / leverage figures I've read over the year for changing rotor diameter is 25-30% +/- depending on sizing up or down.

as Mike said in his answer, reducing rotor size reduces leverage which increases modulation as the brake has to work harder to slow the bike, generally making the brake more controllable.

Many new road bikes with discs (I'm riding a 2015 model with Shimano hydraulic discs) are only using 140mm to give controllable modulation, but with finned brake pads to help manage heat. Interesting to see what affect a heavy rider brake dragging down a long mountain road in the Alps would do to the road brakes?

ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb11703549/p4pb11703549.jpg
  • 1 0
 heavy riders brake dragging on the road are the reason shimano are bringing out finned 160s with adaptors :p if used with poorer quality brakes/fluid you can just fry the things! unfortunately the general issue is people dragging rather than using braking points, but the 160 should help all but the most ham fisted
  • 1 0
 I don't run XT's anymore, rode them for a brief time, but the on/off tendencies drove me nuts. Switching rotors still left me wondering if that was how it had to be. Switched to a Hope M4 and X2 on 2 different bikes. My experience with Hope is very different, went with a 183mm front because they were hard to manage at 160mm. Did run a 200mm on the front and it was overkill, still very manageable, but not for a trail bike. I can drag the brake to lock up with one finger. So much modulation compared to the XT's. I don't have brake related lockups on the rear with the 160 rotors. Did throw on the 183 on the rear, worked great, but not needed. I know, 2 completely different setups and brakes, but the Hopes feel way more natural then the XT's ever felt. Must just be a Shimano thing and I like Shimano, just couldn't get comfortable on them.
  • 1 0
 @oldschool43 - odd, I found the reverse true between Avids and Shimanos. Avids were on/off with no modulation while the Shimano's let me finger modulate them - that is until I wrongly switched to a 203mm rotor.
  • 1 0
 I think its all a matter of getting used to the lever feel and training your muscle memory.

I love my Saints and can quite happily modulate between slowing and skidding the rear or slowing and REALLY slowing the front. I ride my mates Tech M4s and find myself just not slowing down as much as I expect to when I pull the anchors. It has made me crash his bike off the outside of corners before.

My mate on the other hand loves his M4s He can stop just as fast as I can and has similar control over slowing/skidding. However he rides my bike and skids out the rear too much and ends up pulling stoppies when he's just trying to scrub a little speed.

Like I say its all about getting used to what your brake can do.
  • 1 0
 I just swapped out the front 140mm on my new disc road bike, to 160mm with +20mm adapter.

It feels better, because strange as it sounds, I want less modulation on the front and a more positive "hard stop" feel, which I can get used to but I know I have that stopping power when I need it - typically an emergency stop when a motor vehicle does something stupid on the highway!

The original 140mm had great modulation but felt like it was lacking bite

the original rotor was a custom Tektro with aluminium spider, the replacement is a Shimano XT and I got to say the rotor quality feels better with Shimano.
  • 2 0
 With you all the way @hampsteadbandit, i run 160s on the front on my cross bike, when the traction is there I want to be able to use it!
  • 9 3
 I don't know how it's in other countries but in Germany if you buy something new from a shop and it breaks in the first 6 months, the shop has to prove that it wasn't their fault if they don't want to replace it. So they would have to look at the chain and look for reasons why it is the bike owner's fault. It isn't possible to find a fault on the rider's side here so they would have to replace it and the things that got damaged. Except if they really told ya before you bought it that there will be no warranty. Don't know how it's in other countries.
  • 10 0
 ...but this doesn't count for "wear"-parts like chains, cassettes ,tires and so on... we just had this topic today in school (berufsschule) Big Grin
  • 2 0
 It's the same in the whole European Union. Saying "there will be no warranty" doesn't change anything.
  • 6 0
 In the shop I work at we offer a six week part guarantee along with one years frame warranty. If it's a genuine defect (the bb creaking on a kids bike after 3 weeks, for example) then we replace it FOC. But it's trying to explain to customers that if you leave the bike outside, wet, muddy and generally treat it like a dog's blanket the you'll have no sympathy from us. Alas, the customer is always right though...
  • 2 0
 but that doesn't count as warranty...you are just being nice to the customer ,but there is no law saying ,that you have to replace "wear"-parts(whats the correct english term Big Grin ) in the first 6 months when they break
  • 7 0
 Mechanic: [Takes BB out, puts bucket underneath to catch water running out of frame.] 'So it's been in the wet then?'
Customer: 'I don't know what you mean! I've never ridden in the rain and I've only ever cleaned it with a damp cloth!'

As predictable as JRA Smile
  • 1 0
 As far as I know there is no law, but in keeping business means having happy customers. Sometimes it is a defect, other times it's the way the bike is treated. To differentiate would cause friction between the customers and us and make our job more complex. I believe the term you are looking for is 'consumable parts'.
  • 2 0
 @poritz The word you are looking for is consumables Smile Chains, brake pads, cassettes etc. are consumables (Although we all know that really every part of a bike is ultimately consumable! Big Grin ).
  • 1 0
 @wingguy I had exactly that happen to me the other month. except it was a rear hub. It was literally FULL of water, enough came out to fill a tea cup to the brim. Apparently the customer only ever rode in the dry and cleaned their bike with a damp sponge :S
  • 8 0
 In Soviet Russia YOU have to prove it's shop fault, hehe) anyway, some our shops reduce any warranty for frames if you use them in races. That's stupid. What should I do with aurum (for example)? Ride around my home?
  • 1 0
 The German "Gewaehrleistungsrecht" is called the "Sale and Supply of Goods to Consumers Regulations 2002 and Consumer Protection Act" in the UK. Both are national laws based on the 1999/44/RG and 85/374/EWG. But other than in Germany no one knows about it in the UK. Consumers have a very strong lobby and good representation in Germany, not so much in the UK. Everyone here still speaks about warranty, which is something completely different, that is a private contract between manufacturer and customer, not a law.

A chain snapping or breaking cassette within 6 months should be still covered, despite being a wear part. Snapping is not wear. If it is worn down a lot and can be expected to break because of that, it is not covered.
  • 2 0
 @poritz ok then I have to believe you. Big Grin We learned it last year in normal school. (Gymnasium)
  • 1 0
 @rasch23 I guess it's the same in all Europe, just different local laws applying the same comunitary directives... We still call it warranty, we have legal warranty and producer warranty, one is a law, the other a contract. I agree anyway, chain stretch is wear, chain snap within 6 months is a defect.
  • 1 0
 @poritz are you sure? so a "wear" part (what isn't?) which breaks within 6 monts (or two years, what changes is just who has to prove it was a defect) isn't covered by legal warranty?
  • 2 0
 @justgivemeanavailableusername The legal warrany in europe covers "everything". Until the part works "as advertised".

If you love reading -->
europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/shopping/shopping-abroad/guarantees/index_en.htm
  • 1 0
 I wish there was a picture of the broken link. Is normally extremely easy to tell a poorly fitted link from a link thats taken a rock strike or something.
  • 3 0
 In Soviet Russia chains brake you.
  • 9 0
 That was my wife who commented on the reverb post, looks like I will be a happy guy come christmas time.
  • 6 0
 *cough* Surpriiiiiiiiiise!
  • 2 0
 Correction. You WERE about to get a reverb post and then you posted about it and now...this:
www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday--Make-a-Ghetto-Dropper-Post.html
  • 3 1
 Good answer aout the rotors.

im using huge 224mm hayes v8 rotors, i thought it was a good idea, but when i slightly touch the brakes the rear wheel start to drift everywhere, and even the front wheel in loose gravel. Im going back to 200 front and 180 back.

www.pinkbike.com/photo/11568915
  • 17 0
 No way should you take those off. Even if they don't work they look insane Wink
  • 2 1
 Holy shit they're huge. Didn't know people made rotors more than 200mm
  • 1 0
 Heres a bigger one, 300mm www.pinkbike.com/photo/4381700
  • 3 3
 If you want to get rid of that problem, just mount Avid brakes lol
  • 2 0
 Sorry if this seems dumb, but I've always wondered why rim brakes don't offer amazing stopping power compared to disc brakes. With rim brakes it seems like you'd have equivalent of a 26 (or 27.5 or 29) inch rotor on there? Seems like mechanical disc brakes still kill mechanical rim brakes, so it's not just the hydraulics. Why is this? Can the disc caliper design just squeeze a lot harder?
  • 3 0
 Basically yes. Grinding away on a rim with with sintered pads is a very bad idea. It doesn't really matter with disc brakes as they are not an integral part of the wheel. So you can choose different materials for discs and disc pads than you can for rim brakes.
  • 7 0
 Rims brakes can be powerful, like HS33.
But there is limits:
- your rim has to be strong enough to accept the pressure of the pads.
- If you have "powerful" pads, your aluminium rim won't last long (brake disc are in steel with hardened surface)
- the pads need a long travel to be far of your rim, in case the rim is bending under efforts, or if the rim isn't trued properly, so the brakes have a low rate between lever and pistons, so there is a limited amount of pressure on the pads.
  • 2 1
 Steel cables stretch. Also, brake compounds seem to work better. Disc brakes are less affected by mud and water. Also, if you're a hack like me it doesn't matter (as much) if you warp or ding your rims.
  • 1 0
 Cool thanks! Ya I definitely prefer discs for all of those other benefits. Obviously power isn't the main reason they've become the best option for mountain bikes.
  • 5 0
 speaking as someone who rode bikes from cantilever on, not having your wheel drag against the brake due to being slightly out of true is reason no1. reason no2 was not fearing for my life in wet weather. reason 3 was stopping power.
  • 4 0
 Discs don't rub when u taco wheel.
  • 3 1
 With the right pads and right brakes v-brakes can have a lot of stopping power. Trials riders even prefer HS-33 because it locks the wheel better than disc brakes.

The main downside of rim brakes for me is that they can get unpredictable / lose their brake power when the weather gets bad.
The rim rubbing against the brake pads when it's slightly out of true isn't a bad thing IMO, that just motives me to true it again before it gets worse. This way I take better care of my wheels.

Disc brakes are better dosable though and are easier when you're removing your wheel, especially with fat tyres.
  • 3 0
 Several reasons why discs are stronger:

* A rim has flex when it gets squeezed whereas a rotor does not. This means that some of the brake travel goes into flexing the rim inwards.
* A rim brake has to have a bunch of clearance so that the rim doesn't rub the pads. This means that rim brake pads must travel much farther than disc brake pads. There is always a trade-off between amount of travel and ability to apply force. Rim brakes sacrifice force for travel whereas disc brakes can be optimized for force and travel.
* A rotor can be made out of steel because it is small so it can handle hard, high friction pads. A rim needs to be light (generally aluminum) so it needs to be used with soft pads that wear more quickly so that the rim doesn't wear out in a few rides.
  • 2 0
 The upsides of v-brakes are that it's easier to maintain, you don't need special tools for it, and it's easier to get it set perfectly.
Also it will usually last much longer and it is cheaper.

I think that it you only have small and non-steep hills, like the XC trails in The Netherlands, v-brakes are better choice due to the above reasons.

But as soon as you hit something that actually gets technical or where the hill is higher than 30m (so for pretty much all mtb riders here), disc brakes are the best choice.
  • 2 0
 Rims are exponentially better for not having to incorporate a braking surface as well, I wouldn't discount that. In certain wheel sizes, the disc specific rims are so much better, more plentiful, & cheaper, that I would recommend going disc regardless. I've had trouble finding anything reasonable in 650b for rim brakes, for example, except retro touring rims, at ridiculous prices. 26" rims are the same way, though not quite as bad.
  • 3 0
 Rim brakes also flex the stays out when you apply the brakes which contributes significantly to the lost power, just look at the popularity of brake boosters in the late 90's before disc brakes became common.
  • 3 1
 Small rotors, pah, at 224 lbs (for the t'other side of the pond folks) and 105 kg or 16 stone stark b*****k naked small rotors don't cut it for me. 203's all the way with xt or xtr calipers and a sensitive set of fingers, oh er missus.
  • 1 0
 I think you need to work on your finger strength. Im 20st before riding kit and my rear deore on a 7 inch rotor can still lock the wheel if i want it to.
  • 7 6
 The chain "snappage" sounds alot to me like the pin in the chain was pressed too far in and pushed past the other side or somthing to that effect. I would look further into it. It could very well be that they just shorted the chain and threw it on there quickly without making sure the pins were set properly. I've only broken chains like this when the head of the pins are worn from being so old and worn out.

Being a drivetrain from 07, unless it's not abused, it shouldn't have broken that easily. XTR was built for xc racing (light) so it wouldn't be as strong, especially over that span of time, compared to an XT from the same era.)

good luck!
  • 6 0
 That's also what my suspicions were. Sometimes an outdated chain tool will allow enough excess lateral movement in the link plates, then the pin actually goes in at .0000001 degrees angle and they links are all bound together. Or perhaps they never pressed the pin in far enough because they were overly cautious about the scenario you described.
However,
I have never had a broken chain damage a dérailleur and cassette. Perhaps even the old dérailleur or cassette broke first causing this domino effect. As a shop owner or employee, I would also be wary of being held responsible for a 7 year old drivetrain. As a former shop mechanic, I often heard the phrase,"I had this part for 7 years and never had a problem until I brought it to you."
The customer is so bummed about their old bike breaking right after they finally start investing in it instead of buying a new bike. Now they have to face the reality that super expensive XTR equipped bike won't last forever, and that prices have only gotten higher since 2007 and most of their state of the art drivetrain is considered obsolete.
It also doesn't help when friends and family tell fish stories and exaggerated tales of them breaking down an employee and getting stuff for free. This makes you, as a customer, feel inadequate and cheated.
Jeez, I am rambling and could probably go on all day. This is unfortunate for this person to have their bike left unrideable. I would advise looking for the exact parts they want on eBay or pink bike buy/sell. I would think 2007 brand new parts might be out there and at a really good price.
  • 1 0
 I agree, or because i'ts 9spd 07 gear, get a new cassette and derailler with a lower spec. i found that when I replaced with my 05 xt with 2010 deore, I actualy saved weight.
  • 20 0
 Sram chains use a quick link to install. So no pressing required.
  • 1 0
 Pressing at the factory of the remaining pins in the chain.
  • 4 0
 Lets be fair to the shop,

They installed a SRAM chain, so most likely 99.9% they would have used the master link that came with it.
  • 4 0
 Unless it's an average dutch bikeshop. Than they would try throwing tools at the chain hoping it will magically connect itsself.
  • 1 9
flag makripper (Dec 9, 2014 at 18:12) (Below Threshold)
 I NEVER use magiclinks or the like. i've had them fail before. I like the breakaway pins best. but thats all preference and nitpicking. who knows really?
  • 3 5
 I wouldn't trust any shop that recommends puttin a sram chain on a shimano system,
KMC yep
Sram? No fkng way!
  • 3 1
 You can put any chain on any gear system so long as it's the correct width. KMC have never failed me though. Also, I thought that once you've broken a chain, you shouldn't put pins back in, as the originals are riveted in at the factory. A chain will just snap at the new link. Once a pin has been pushed out, you should use a quick link and nothing else.
  • 1 0
 @sam264 you're ok as long as you don't push the pin out all the way out of the last link. or you can do this and use a breakaway pin (they come with shimano chains) www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-Speed-Chain-Pins/dp/B000NONUBE just as a reference. nice thing about these is you can throw them in your pack or pocket too and makes fixing chains out on the trail damn quick. I've set them with a rock before when the group didn't have a chain tool lol
  • 1 0
 Fair enough. I just carry a quick link, even easier! Wink
  • 1 0
 depending on the situation Smile
  • 5 1
 When does the POY contest begin ???? I mean theses will be the 12 picures for the 2015 calendar so we got to hurry, no ?
  • 5 0
 There is no 150mm drop 30.9mm Reverb.
  • 2 0
 There is also no 120mm drop Reverb (unless you only go part way down).
  • 1 0
 I want a 150mm 30.9mm Reverb...
  • 5 0
 You don't need smaller rotors, you need brake with good modulation.
  • 3 0
 Good call mental head..That's why I switched to Hope brakes. Great modulation and all the power you need when you want it.
  • 2 0
 I'm a Shimano brake fan and I agree, Hopes are awesome
  • 1 0
 Pinkbike, I can't adjust my front caliper enough to keep is from rubbing my brake pads. the caliper needs to be just 1mm more to the inside of the bike(towards the hub). How can I solve this?
My caliper mounts directly on my frok, no adapter.
  • 4 0
 I would like to try the Shorty out as it looks impressive.
  • 1 0
 It's a seriously good tyre for winter , good enough to keep me from buying another set of magic marys of which I'm a massive fan
  • 1 0
 Me too, I forgot about it for a while! Looks ready to chew things up lol
  • 1 0
 No idea why it says ' finally in the Uk ' I have had them for 3-4 months now from nextdaytyres.:P
  • 4 0
 Shimano's Ice Tech rotors are so damn sexy...
  • 2 1
 Hmmmm. 07 cassette with a brand new chain? I can pretty much garuntee the cassette is worn out and caused the chain to wear super quick. Chainring/cassette /chain should always be replaced together.
  • 1 0
 Few years ago I had a problem. My front wheel with 6" rotor kept coming out the dropout. Tried a stronger skewer, that did not help. Went with an 8" rotor and never had that problem again.
  • 6 4
 I always "tire" towards the top of climbs because my winter "tyres" drag so much,but then I do live in the UK :-)
  • 1 0
 why do you say shorty for a front tyre ? i run a wet scream up front with a shorty at the back when its proper muddy and its a sweet set up
  • 1 0
 Shorty is a good compromise for cornering grip and rolling resistance.
  • 1 2
 Hey pinkbike! not sure if this is a good place to ask but..... I'm thinking of building up my dream budget do-it-all bike. Its a aluminum 2014 Yeti sb-66 frame that is sale now. My goal is to build it up with budget parts such as Zee brakes, spank components. and Marzocchi suspension..possibly. I currently own a 2011 Trek Remedy 9.7 which I absolutely love but i'm the second owner and I'm not sure if the if the carbon frame will last me another 5 years (selling soon). I've been biking passionately for a year, so i'm still a noob but pretty fast for a noob.. so i'm looking for a bike that will help me progress my skill and one that I will be able to keep for a couple of years. ANYWAYS Do you guys have any recommendations for a crank & bottom bracket combo in budget? I've tried looking up but its still kinda muddy :/
  • 2 0
 If 1 by zee if not one by then slx or some OEM raceface thing. Try asking in the all mountain forum though
  • 1 0
 Thanks. I appreciate your input. I think I came down to the slx on jenson looks pretty cheap.
says it comes bb so that is figured out. If anything I can upgrade later.
www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-SLX-M675-Crankset
  • 1 0
 Get a dirt jumper. Hands down the one bike that has helped me progress the most as a rider and has lasted the longest through twice the abuse as my other bikes is my DJ. As far as the crankset you've found the best one for a budget build.
  • 1 0
 Deore crank&BB. You'll have to maintain the bearing and change the BB more often, but it's really cheap.
And for brakes, zee are good, but SLX are good brakes and maybe cheaper. with good metallic pads (I use CL brakes VRX), they Rocks. and you save money for other parts.
Don't hesitate to invest in good suspensions and wheels first, (and good brakes so you'll have confidence in your bike), and save money in other parts. A crankset is less important and less expensive to upgrade later.
  • 1 0
 Thanks. I was thinking of getting the Marzocchi 55CR people say its a good fork definitely alot better than my talas 32 rl. I'm getting all the parts from last year or the year before that and most of it is close to half off. so this should be fairly inexpensive comparing to a brand new bike. Just realized I should have put this in the forums sections but too late...
  • 1 0
 What is a good tire (cheaper) for studding for ice riding? I don't have tubeless so I'm thinking larger knobs to drill the screws in. What do you think I should use?
  • 1 0
 650B wheels... sorry XD
  • 2 1
 Going up each rotor size will add approximately 20% extra braking surface area.
  • 2 2
 I like how Richard just provided a longer more technical answer to say the same thing I already answered about the seatpost.
  • 1 0
 Kenda Telonix 26x2.6/2.4 in the snow ftw!
  • 1 0
 UK tyres Magic Mary trailstar front Hans Dampf pacestar rear
  • 1 0
 Iv found smaller rotors have less modulation.
Just me?
  • 1 1
 "British Slop" sounds like the name of a band
  • 9 2
 I thought it was referring to the food. Smile
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