|A larger diameter rotor will offer more power thanks to the added leverage that it provides, and it will also deal with heat better during long, hard descents like you'd do on a downhill bike, but outright power isn't always the only concern. Most people will cite weight as the reason for going with a smaller rotor, but I'd argue that using rotor size to tune how your brakes feel is the real reason to go down in size - a smaller rotor will offer a more controllable feel at the lever, which is especially important when riding in low-traction conditions. For example, in the summer I'll often use a fast rolling tire on the back of my bike and the trails can be a bit dusty and loose. My Shimano brakes have quite a bit of initial bite to them that can cause me to lock up my wheels unexpectedly when I'm pushing hard, but going from an 8'' rotor to a 6'' rotor gives me back a lot of that control. Yes, there isn't as much power on tap when using the smaller rotor, but the modulation that I get outweighs that loss in my mind. After all, almost everyone's brakes are more than powerful enough so long as you're using them as intended. That said, I'd prefer to run 8'' rotors anytime I'm in a bike park for the power and heat management. The one other thing to keep in mind is that some older forks with quick-release dropouts are not compatible with large rotors. - Mike Levy|
Brakes feeling a bit too grabby? Moving down a rotor size can add more feel and control, especially if you're often riding in wet or dusty conditions.
| Droppers are longer than conventional seatposts because they need room for their telescoping innards. Because the seal-head restricts maximum insertion, some longer travel dropper posts cannot be lowered enough to achieve proper saddle height if the frame is tall, or the rider's legs are too short. The 2012 Santa Cruz Nomad has a straight seat tube, so all three travel options of the RockShox Reverb dropper post will fit the frame. You mentioned in a follow-up post that your husband was five feet, nine inches tall. Experience as a custom frame builder tells me that his inseam will be close to 32 inches, which suggests that 120-millimeter option is going to be your choice.|
Pushed down to the seal-head in the frame, the 150-millimeter option may be too tall at full extension to allow your husband to achieve his correct saddle height. The 100-millimeter option does not give most riders enough drop for proper descents and is typically used when the rider is too short to achieve proper seatpost extension, or when the seat tube design limits the distance that the post can be inserted into the frame. I also have a 32-inch inseam and, while I can ride a 150-millimeter Reverb on most test bikes, the post is usually slammed to maximum insertion. The 120-millimeter Reverb, however, leaves me at least three centimeters of seatpost adjustment to play with below the post's seal-head in the worst scenarios, so the 120 would be the safe bet in your case. - RC
When choosing a dropper post, get the longest stroke model that you can ride. Before you buy, however, first check that the post can be inserted far enough in your frame to achieve your correct saddle height. If this GT Force's frame was any taller, I would not have been able to lower my saddle enough to ride the bike when the Reverb was fully extended.
|I've seen countless iterations of the this scenario during the years I spent working as a wrench. A customer purchases a part, and a few months later comes in with it in pieces, expecting a full refund, since it broke when they were 'just riding along.' It's a tricky scenario - as a shop employee, you want to give the customer the benefit of the doubt, but at the same time, a shop won't remain in business very long by shelling out free parts every time something breaks. |
In your case, more than likely the chain breaking and the resulting drivetrain destruction was simply an unlucky coincidence, and it's neither the shop nor SRAM's fault. Of course, a chain should last more than a handful of rides, and the majority of the time they do, but it only takes one hard shift to load the chain at an awkward angle and bend it, or one rock strike to accomplish the same thing, and then after a few more miles the weakened link gives up for good. Being willing to compromise is your best bet in a situation like this - you might not be able to get a free derailleur and chain, but the shop may install the replacement parts at no cost, or give you a discount on the new components. If you want to go with the glass half full approach, this might just be the excuse you need to upgrade your drivetrain - maybe a 10 speed cassette, shifter, and clutch-equipped derailleur are in your future? The clutch feature alone makes this a worthy upgrade, it just depends on how much money you want to spend on a seven year old bike. - Mike Kazimer
Snapped chains happen, something Neko Mulally knows all too well, but it didn't stop him from getting 4th place at the 2014 DH World Championships.
|It sounds like you are looking for grip and performance over weight and pedaling speed. For the rear, I would suggest a Specialized Storm in the Control casing, I spent a lot of time on a Storm last year with great success, at 2.0 inches, it is a little narrower than you asked for, but this will help to cut through thick mud and get the tire biting. The medium compound and short, widely spaced spikes clear well, and also roll surprisingly well on road and hard-pack. For the front wheel, Maxxis Shorty's are finally available in the UK in a variety of sizes. For a 27.5" wheel, a 2.3" MaxTerra Exo, weighing 865grams should offer plenty of volume for stability, cushioning and absorption at the business end of your bike. The 3C MaxTerra will be soft on the rocks and roots, and will be spiky enough to dig in to the mud. Of course, there are many different options and opinions about tires, but If you don't want to spent hours banging your frozen knuckles off spokes to swap tires every week for changing conditions, this combination should see you through the multitude of Britain's best winter weather conditions. - Paul Aston|
Cool FeaturesSubmit a Story to Pinkbike
RSSPinkbike RSS Feed