|If there's one component that needs improving, it's dropper seat posts. Sure, most of them work well enough when they're functioning properly, but it's that bit about how long they stay functioning that gets annoying. That said, I'd take a troublesome dropper post that I have to get repaired every few months over a seat stuck up my ass during the entirety of every ride, and anyone who tells you different either spends most of their time riding a cross-country race bike in Florida or hasn't given one a shot. So, to answer your question, the dropper post that has given me the absolute least amount of troubles is FOX's post. The D.O.S.S. simply goes and goes, and while it might be one of the heavier options on the market, its reliability makes me overlook that fact. It's not without its foibles, however, as its remote really only works well when it's mounted under the bar on the left side in place of the shifter, and there is also a sometimes annoying knock at the top of its stroke. What about the KS post? I sure do like the stationary cable entry point on the outer tube, but I've seen enough reliability issues that I'd spring for the heavier D.O.S.S. every time. - Mike Levy|
|Sintered metallic pads are the better choice over resin or "organic" pads because they stop with more authority, last much longer and are more consistent feeling between wet and dry conditions. Metallic pads, however, make lots of noise and while a slight rub on the rotor creates almost no friction, the sound drives some riders nuts. Brake manufacturers love organic pads because they make little or no noise when the rotors drag, which fools most riders into believing that their brakes are perfectly aligned and never rub. Organic brake pads require more squeeze to stop the bike, so they don't hit hard and thus provide ham-fisted riders more leeway before the wheels lock up. Once you get used to the harder hitting metallic pads, though, you will find that they modulate with a much more consistent feel. As far as wear goes; I have burned through a set of resin pads during one race weekend in wet conditions, while the same brake brand, fitted with metallic pads, showed only a bit more than normal wear on the same course. Metallic pads conduct heat better than organic ones, so there will be more heat transferred to the caliper pistons when compared with organic pads. The ceramic pistons in Shimano's Zee calipers are very heat resistant, so that should never be a problem. Sintered pads' heat transfer issues, however, may be nullified by the fact that the extra power that metallic pads provide, allows the rider to slow the bike in less time, which keeps the system cooler. This has been true in my experience. - RC|
Shimano Zee brakes can easily handle the heat transfer of sintered metallic pads. Zee OEM pads are resin types, while aftermarket brakes come with sintered metallic versions.
|Well, first, let's talk about terminology. To 'dish' a wheel means to adjust its spoke tension with the end goal of having the rim sit equidistant between each side of the hub's axle end caps. This will allow it to be centered in the frame when the wheel is in the bike's dropouts. There are some bikes (yours isn't one of them) where the wheel has to be dished to the frame, which means it is tensioned so that it is closer to one side or the other of the hub. Truing a wheel is done to remove either lateral (side to side) or radial (up and down) misalignment. Wheels need to be trued much more often than dished - usually it's just one or two sections of the rim that the spoke tension needs to be adjusted on. For more information on wheel truing, this video can help.|
I'd guess that your wheels may just need to be trued, in which case I recommend walking into your local bike shop and asking the mechanics nicely if they could true your wheels (demanding is never a good tactic, especially when dealing with underpaid and overworked mechanics). Mechanics also appreciate tips, and bringing in some food or cold beverages when you pick up your bike will certainly be appreciated. I wouldn't worry about telling them how much you weigh, etc..., because a properly trued and tensioned wheel is the same whether you're 100 pounds or 200 pounds - those details would be more relevant if you were having a completely new wheelset built. - Mike Kazimer
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