Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul-searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand-picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Why Design More Travel up Front? Question: Mountain-man99 asks in the
All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: Does anyone have any ideas on why manufactures are making bikes with different travel front and rear - such as the Santa Cruz Hightower (135mm rear and 150 front) Or the Pivot Mach 5.5? There are more and more brands doing this. Why? What is the benefit? | Good question. There are two main reasons for designing a bike with more fork travel than rear-wheel travel. The performance reason is that when you are smashing down the trail, the fork does the hard work for the lion's share of the time. It is the first part of the chassis to smack a bump, and the momentary deceleration the impact creates causes the rider's and bicycle's mass to un-weight the rear suspension, so the rear wheel clears the object with less difficulty. There is more to that equation, but the bottom line is that if you were to choose one or the other, a longer-stroke fork results in better suspension performance than adding more rear-wheel travel.
If you are talking 29ers, however, the reason is simpler to explain. Frame designers must limit the rear suspension travel in order to maintain a proper chainstay length and keep the larger-diameter wheel from contacting the seat tube at full compression. In order to make up for that deficiency, and for the same reasons mentioned in the first paragraph, bike designers often spec longer-stroke forks on 29ers.— RC |
SRAM vs Shimano Derailleur Clutches?Question: Pinkbike user
@BarnaK asked this question in the
Bikes, Parts & Gear forum: I'm replacing my rear derailleur from XT Shadow M8000 to SRAM GX or GX Eagle. I don't mind the weight, I don't mind the material, I just care about the chainslap and noise control (aka clutch). The XT M8000 shadow disappointed me badly, (tried to harden /soften the clutch, played with chain length, taped the chainstay...) too noisy.
So, the question: Is the new version v3 clutch (which is on the newest Eagle's) that much better than the earlier v2.1? Is it worth it to upgrade the whole drivetrain to 1x12 and spend a fortune? I'm on 1x11 and it's just enough for me; I don't need more gears. And obviously I want to spend as little as possible.Anyone tried both? | I'm not sure that you'll find the solution to your chainslap woes by switching to a SRAM derailleur – the amount of resistance provided by SRAM's clutch mechanism isn't drastically different than what's provided by a Shimano Shadow derailleur. If anything, there's less resistance than what you'd be able to achieve by tightening down the clutch on a Shimano derailleur.
That being said, if you have your heart set on switching to SRAM, don't forget that you'll need a new shifter too – Shimano shifters and SRAM derailleurs don't play nicely together due to the different cable pull ratios. If you're happy with your current gear ratio, I wouldn't rush out to buy an Eagle drivetrain, especially since you're looking to spend as little as possible.
I'd also recommend taking a closer look at your frame to try and figure out where the chainslap noise is coming from. You mentioned that you taped the chainsay, but you didn't say what you used. Some frame designs are inherently noisier than others, but applying a thicker rubber mastic tape to both sides of the chainstay, as well as to the underside of the seatstay may help quiet things down. — Mike Kazimer |
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the
Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
Kona Cowan with a Monster T?!?!
As for the full susser, yeah I'm running 160mm in the front and 140mm in the rear.
you betcha!!
Years ago I put a 170mm Lyrik coil on a Yeti ASR5 & rode it like it was built for a 170. It was actually designed for 120 to 140. It was delivered a quick death.
Rear travel is measured vertically. Front travel is measured in line with the head angle. So 150mm @ 67 degrees is actually
140mm of vertical travel.
Sorted!
Sin(degrees) = opposite / hypotenuse. The hypotenuse is 150mm, and the head angle is 67 degrees. What you're looking for is the opposite side of the triangle. I'm imagining the triangle with the right angle facing away from the bike.
So, sin(67*) = Y / 150. To get Y by itself, multiply everything by 150.
Therefore, sin(head angle, in degrees) x fork travel = vertical travel.
We know that the fork length plus its height (when mounted to the bike) is making a right triangle, so the angles are:
C = 67 degrees, B = 90 degrees and A = 33 degrees
Sides: b = 150mm (fork travel), a & c are unknown, but we are interested in c (which correspond to the height/vertical travel of the fork).
So we solve for C with the sin rule:
c/sinC = b/sinB =
c = (b*sinC)/sinB
c = (150 * sin67)/sin90
c = (150 * ~0.92)/1
c = ~138.08
The fork has ~138.08 mm of vertical travel if you are on a flat ground with a slope of 0 degrees.
The result ?? Ssshhhhhhhh...
1) The front tire needs to track straight for good control and confidence. The rear wheel can get loose, while still having the rider feel in control. More front travel bias, and the fact your legs are aiding in rear suspension performance, makes more front travel help keep TRUE balanced performance.
2) On any hardtail mountain bike, I think it's generally accepted that a 100mm fork is a benefit, in rough terrain. Thats a 100mm front travel advantage! That same bias might feel nice even with rear suspension.
Same bike, 170mm coil up front.
Good times.
There are two well known exceptions to this statement. The Evil Wreckoning has 160/161 frt/rr travel and the Specialized 29er Enduro with 160/165 frt/rr travel.
It's helpful, but doesn't really tell the whole story. My bike geo changes as soon as I sit on it, so I'm not sure what real benefit static numbers provide.
I haven't heard of a bike with shorter chainstays than the radius of the rear wheel
Pop it off with a knife, then use an 8mm Allen key in the torx t55 to tighten.
Should only need 1/4 to half a turn.