Ask Pinkbike: Full Face Helmets, Used Enduro Bikes, Clipless Shoes & More
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul-searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand-picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Is a 2011 Specialized Enduro Good For Enduro?
Question: @Eat-sleep-ride-repeat asks in the all-mountain, enduro & cross-country forum: I found a 2011 Enduro for sale that I can afford somewhat close to me. What do y’all think of the Enduro? I’ve never had an enduro bike before, just a older DH bike. I wanna get into enduro racing but I also love riding downhill, will this suffice for both because I can’t afford to buy 2 bikes?
 | The Enduro has been in Specialized's lineup for almost 20 years now in one form or another, morphing from a long-ish travel XC bike to the 165mm or 170mm (depending on wheelsize) machine it is today. Back in 2011, the era you're looking at, it still rolled on 26” wheels, had a front derailleur, and 160mm of travel. The geometry might not be as long and slack as today's modern all-mountain bikes, but it's not really that far off, and it should fit the bill for what you're trying to achieve. I wouldn't recommend doing downhill races or going flat out in the bike park on it for months on end, but for the occasional enduro race and general aggressive riding it's a decent option if you're on a budget. Keep in mind that we're talking about a seven year old mountain bike here – make sure that you (or a more knowledgeable buddy) go over it carefully to check for cracks in the frame or other issues that could be dangerous out on the trail. You may also want to set aside some funds to service the suspension, bleed the brakes, and potentially add on a dropper post if it doesn't already have one. Otherwise, enjoy your lighter, more pedalable new ride. |
It may have little wheels and a front derailleur, but an older Specialized Enduro could still be a fun all-rounder.
Full-Face Helmet for Everyday Riding
Question: Derickh asks in the All-Mountain/Cross-Country Forum: My regular ride (a Trek Fuel 90) is having front fork issues, so I head out on my $300 Arrow Infinity hardtail with its cheap Suntour XCTV2 fork. The sun is shining, the birds sing in the forest. I'm loving the nimbleness of the little 26" hardtail on the trail. I say to it: "I bet you're tired of being my run-down-to-the-pub-for-a-drink-and-don't-get-stolen-bike."
I have a ball running it through the forest. The day before, I set up the cheap Shimano Alivio 3x8 group to run properly and it shifts much better now. I start to entertain thoughts like, "I should train on this bike and wear out dirt cheap 8 speed chains and cassettes and save my expensive 9/10/11/12 speed stuff!"
I ride down a small hill and decide to try a jump, Normally, on my Trek Fuel 90 I'd have a dropper post and my Manitou Black fork, but on this bike, the suspension goes CLUNK and I end up face down in the dirt. I'm lucky I didn't break my skull. I think I gave myself a minor concussion. I'm thinking I should start wearing a full-face helmet.
| Most of us have had a nasty crash like yours, and occasionally, a full-face would have saved the day. The reason trail riders wear half shells is that they are comfortable enough to encourage wearing them full time. The best helmet in the world can't protect your noggin if it's strapped to your pack or hanging on your handlebar. If you do want a full-time full-face, my favorite helmet is the Fox Proframe. It is super comfortable on the head, weighs only 750 grams, and it is ventilated so well that I can wear it all day - uphill or down. It's not as cool as a good half-shell on a warm day, but it's a magnitude better than any DH lid I've worn. I'd suggest this one for sure. |
Fox's Proframe helmet is a lightweight full-face with exceptional comfort and ventilation, designed for enduro and all-mountain riders. - Fox Racing photo
In Between Sizes
Question: @chubbydentist asks in the 29ers Forum: I’m 6'2" with a 32" inseam (long torso) coming from an XL Santa Cruz Nickel 26” bike so the step up to 29" is different enough. I’ve had a chance to demo the Troy 29 in both sizes. L seemed more playful and willing but definitely felt a little tight. The XL seemed more stable and unstoppable but really long! What do you think? Will I evolve with the XL and appreciate the extra reach and stability as I get it dialed, or should I let first impressions dominate and go for what feels good right away?
| At 6'2" I would definitely recommend the XL sized Troy for you, which according to their geometry chart has a 485mm reach, which isn't monstrous by today's standards. I think riders who think they are between sizes should go for the bigger size for two reasons: The first is that you will get used to the bigger size after a few hours, and the added stability will increase your confidence, which you can then use to make more extreme maneuvers and be more aggressive. You will learn to ride more in the middle of the bike as it's likely that you are currently used to riding off the back of the 447mm reach Nickel. Secondly, it is a lot easier to make a long bike shorter compared to making a short bike longer. For example, changing to a shorter stem, rolling the handlebars back, or using anglesets or offset headset cups to adjust. There is some scope to make a small bike longer, but the easiest routes of changing the stem to something longer than the spec'd 50mm or rolling the bar forwards is going to have a negative effect on the descending prowess of the bike. The only caveat is that seat tube needs to be short enough to extend the dropper to full height and still have the correct seated position. According to the Santa Cruz archive, the XL Nickel has a 520mm seat tube length, and the XL Troy is shorter at 495mm, but the latter uses a 170mm dropper post. |
Moving from a 26" Nickel to a 29" Troy eight years its junior will be a big a change and could take some time to get used to.
Clipless Shoe Advice
Question: @moomoo1 asks in the All-Mountain/Cross-Country Forum: Hi, I'm moving on from flats to clipless pedals. I've bought some XT M8000 Shimano pedals, any help with what mtb shoes to get? This is all new to me apparently cleats are with the pedals?
| You've made a good selection with your pedals and yes, cleats come with them. The Shimano SPD system is tried and true and one of the most common ones out there. You can adjust the tension on the pedals to make it easier or more difficult to release out and they're rebuildable...I have a couple pair that have lasted for years and are still going strong. For shoes, I would recommend trying on whatever you are looking at before you buy. Unlike flat pedal shoes or a standard sneaker, clipless shoes are usually reinforced to be stiffer. This helps transfer the power you put into the pedals to the bike rather than a flexy shoe. This also means that the fit of clipless shoes is a little less forgiving. There are clipless shoes that have more of a flat pedal/skate shoe style and then more XC and race oriented shoes that look similar to a road shoe (mountain shoes are all drilled to accept a mountain bike cleat with two holes rather than a road shoe which has three.) The skate style clipless shoes are usually stiff but an XC race style shoe can be significantly stiffer which may take you some getting used to but is very efficient. If you're riding more aggressive trail and DH then a skate style clipless shoe could be the ticket. If you're burning up laps on weeknight XC races, then the more traditional plastic or carbon soled clipless shoes may be a better choice. Just remember, some brands and styles fit people better than others. My foot is on the narrow side of things and I find that Shimano, Specialized, and Five Ten shoes fit me best. |
Five Ten's Hellcat Pro MTB shoe is a great shoe for more gravity oriented riding but someone riding purely XC could benefit from a more traditional clipless shoe option.
Author Info:
Must Read This Week
Sign Up for the Pinkbike Newsletter - All the Biggest, Most Interesting Stories in your Inbox
PB Newsletter Signup
Don't knock it 'til you've tried it. If someone has had years on flats and move to clipless then I'd say they've figured out a thing or two.
I just like the fact they have hopefully gained good skills rather then gone "oh those people are fast it must be because of the shoes" mentality that is out there and they don't learn basics (especially with BMX Racing).
Personally I tried, hated the feeling of float and just found good pin placement (Hope pedals) and a set of Vans had no foot movement. May as well feel comfortable and enjoy the ride.
Not to defend one vs the other...But, since this is PB....
When learning clipless, you WILL fall over. A lot. I did back in the day. I've been on them for 2 decades now and have that sorted.* YMMV.
As for performance gain. Hm. That is debatable depending on your ride. If you spend a lot of time pedaling, then clipless is THE way to go. If you are a park rider, then I don't think they are the right choice. I'm a trail rider and rarely leave the ground, so I love them for that connected to the bike feeling when going over rough terrain. But you DO have to commit to rough terrain with them. You can clip out quickly, but not nearly as fast as just moving your foot when on flats.
Flats. I have a set. I'm terrible at them! I think it has to do with the terrain I ride and years of clipless bad habits. I get the heels back idea, but it is hard to pedal on flatish terrain with your heels like that.
* Full disclosure: Last year in Bend my daughter, who doesn't mountain bike even though she is a natural, was going about zero miles per hour at lookout mountain after the eclips. She stopped, I was too close, and fell over onto very unfriendly rock. Pretty sure I hair line fractured something in my elbow, but i'm all better now, thanks for asking. Other than that, I don't think I've had a tip in at least 10 years. Now that I've said it, I'll probably eat shit on my next ride.
2008 Enduro Comp
2012 Enduro S-Works (Built up myself)
2016 Enduro Expert 29
2017 Enduro Pro 29
2017 Enduro S-Works 29
(Yes I have issues)
...and I can say the 2011 Enduro is a killer bike. (The one pictured is a 2010 btw)
- Drop the front derailer, go 1x and save a pound. Stick a OneUp or Wolftooth big ring on the back.
- Make sure the propedal on that shock works as the 2011 really needs it for climbing.
- Check the seat collar to make sure (if it’s carbon) it hasn’t been over-wrenched by hand to the point of cracking.
- The major issue would be the Spesh brand fork (if that’s what’s on the bike - your question doesn’t specify which model) If it’s got that e160 Future fork you’ll have to send it to them for servicing if your shop can’t do it and that’ll be somewhat pricy. Might be better off finding an on-sale Pike or something.
- The rear on a 2011 is also still 135 qr. I waited for the 2012 for that reason alone when it went 142. Not a deal-breaker but be aware.
Which model and price point are you looking at?
On older bikes I think it's really important to pay close attention to the condition of the frame, fork, and shock. Anything carbon needs a good eye. Everything else isn't too costly. For the right price even something a bit rougher wouldn't be an issue - for me anyways.
There are still TONNES of people out on trails riding bikes that are 5yr, 10yr, 15yr, and in some cases even older.
Things I've done to it over the years:
- Added external dropper
- Monarch Plus RC3 with bikeyoke (I blew through the RP23 too easily at around 88kg kitted)
- Charger damper added to the stock Lyrik R. Removed the spacer so it's now 170mm
- Offset bushings making it 65.5 HA
- Hope V4 brakes
- 1x conversion
- Spank OOZY 760mm Bars
Great bike that is able to ride any trail. The proprietary yoke is it's main downfall but luckily bikeyoke brought out an aftermarket one
My brother and one friend both have 2010 Specialized Enduro Comps (exact same bike as the 2011).
I personally maintain my brothers one and it has recieved love and care throughout all of its life but it gets ridden hard!
Both of those bikes have been raced (Enduro and DH) and jumped BIG and I can say...If I was forced to have a 26" bike a Specialized Enduro is the one I would choose.
If the price is right and the bike is in good condition GO FOR IT.
Good test of it last weekend during a very hot dry Enduro race. Took the chinbar off for the final climb back up for the last stage of the day. Got to the top, waiting to drop in and thought - "Hmmm it's really hot, I'm super sweaty and I've ridden this trail tons of times, maybe I'll skip the chinbar". f*ck you!!! I thought to myself, don't let that bastard Karma get the better of you... you know full well what he'll do to your face and teeth if he catches you racing down a stage with a chinbar attached to your back back. Then I took the 15 seconds it takes to attach the chinbar and raced the final stage never even thinking about or noticing the chinbar and safe in the thought that I had vanquished that little Karma f*cker for another day. The End.
2) Fox helmet plug, there is no question asked.
3) Reasonable question, reasonable answer.
4) Read some reviews / visit mtbr.com / try on some shoes.
But again most of time I am more happy for the extra warmth of the full face hehe
That said I only weigh 155-160lbs with gear on. Got the bike basically in new state(ridden like 3times) maticulous with maitenance and avoid hucking to flat, transitions are fine. Also to be said is Ill rock a frame from 2001 with a small crack under the bb with no hesitation(Evil imperial)
All jokes aside, I really appreciated the extremely helpful answers, I think I already know what y’all will say but, if I have to have the bike shipped to me unseen should i still go for it?
If the seller isn't willing to do this, he probably knows it won't pass the test, and that's a major red flag for you! I've personally seen a bike someone bought for a "good deal" end up needing $1,150 in repairs. Granted that included a new fork, but it's totally possible the bike you're looking at could need a new fork.
Congratulations on being "featured!"
Moreover, I've had a customer totally wear out a drivetrain in 45 days. The guy was a pro training hard in the spring mud season doing hill repeats on a muddy forest service road, but my point is; just because it's a new bike, doesn't mean you can skip the inspection from your LBS. Even if you buy locally, meet them at a bike shop.
Also, be prepared to pay the shop for the inspection. They may not charge, but I wouldn't go into it expecting them not to.
I love my straw hat for the hill climb. Keeps the blazing sun off me, and at the top my kit is dry. Why not wear a full face when the ride is one long up, then one long down, and repeat?
But I NEVER wear my "enduro" helmet with removable chin guard on my DH bike. Real DH helmet, neck brace, full armor. Why skimp when I don't need to carry it uphill? Speeds and consequences are much higher on the DH bike. A well-vented helmet with removable chin guard adds protection with no appreciable drawback... for XC/AM riding. But for DH? No way.