Ask Pinkbike: Kickers, Spoke Protectors, and the RockShox Pike vs the Fox 36 fork
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Getting Kicked
Question: Pinkbike user mmjohnson asked this question in the Freeride and Slopestyle forum: I ride a Specialized Enduro EVO Expert and am finding that I'm getting bucked forward quite a bit when hitting any sort of kicker. I did realize that the coil spring in my FOX 36 fork was too soft for me, so I've changed that out to a stiffer one. Could that have been the problem? What causes the bucking that I'm experiencing?
 | A ''kicker'' is what I'd call a jump with quite a steep lip to it, and they're made to send you up higher than a mellower take off would. These types of jumps are a lot harder to ride well because they take both more skill and a proper bike setup compared to a gentle takeoff that you can just point it off and go out further but not as high. The latter point, bike setup, is much easier to get right: it's all about balance when talking about both damping and spring rate. A good bike shop can help you dial this in, and it's key to having a bike that flies predictably. Start with spring rate, then fiddle with rebound speed for your fork and shock until they feel very close to the same. Balance also comes into play when talking about your technique... if your arms are loose but your legs are stiff, and your body is too far back or too far forward, you're going to be on on a flight plan that won't end well. For now, forget about tricks and going high or far, and only focus on being relaxed and in control. - Mike Levy |
Plastic Protector Behind Cassette?
Question: Pinkbike user SaarKoren asked this question in the Beginners forum: I have a plastic protector behind my cassette, probably for mud. It's making a lot of noise and really annoying me. Can I take it off, or is it important?
| That plastic piece is designed to protect the spokes just in case your chain drops over the top of the cassette. With a properly adjusted drivetrain this shouldn't be an issue, and you can take off that unsightly, noisy contraption without any worries. However, before you go about removing it, there is a quick test you should perform. Shift up into the largest (easiest) cog on your cassette, and gently push your rear derailleur, as if you were trying to get it to shift up one more gear. Does the chain remain on the cog? If it does, you're all set - remove that spoke guard and get out for a ride. If your chain does shift off and over the top of the cassette, there's a little work to be done first. Start by checking your limit screws - those are the two Phillips or hex head screws that prevent your derailleur from shifting too far in either direction. If it still shifts off, your hanger may be bent, which may be a job for a bike shop if you're not comfortable tackling that at home. Once your drivetrain is operating smoothly, now you can remove the protector. Sometimes this is possible without removing the cassette, but if it's especially stubborn you'll often need a chain whip and a lockring tool to take the cassette off and remove it. - Mike Kazimer |
There's no need for the plastic spoke protector with a well-adjusted drivetrain.
Upgrade my RockShox Pike to a Fox 36?
Question: Rocky-mtn-gman says in the All-Mountain and Cross-Country Forum: I need help picking out a Fox fork and I'm not much of a suspension guru. I'm getting a Kona Process 153 and it comes with RockShox Pike RC Solo Air 160mm. I'm going to immediately swap out with the highest-end fox fork I can find, no factor on cost. I do a mix of all-mountain riding and days at the bike park in Colorado. I need a big beefy fork that also can handle some hours of pedaling. I'm assuming something within the 160mm - 180mm range is going to cut it, but I can't find an adjustable fork on their site with that range (i found an 130mm to 160mm though). Also, I don't know sh*t about damper systems, which system should I go with? Their site has FIT, iCD, FIT Terralogic, FIT CTD Remote, FIT CTD w/Trail Adjust, FIT RC2 - no idea what the hell any of these do. I'd like to get into a damper system that can be adjusted for low/hi speed compression damping. I don't need a remote lockout, though.
So far on their website, I've come up with:
- 36 160 FIT RC2 27.5
- 36 170 FIT RC2 27.5
- 36 160 FIT RC2 27.5 (adjustable between 130mm - 160mm)
Any suggestions?
| The new 36 would be an excellent upgrade for park riding on your Process because it is a more capable fork for maximum travel events. I'd suggest that you stick with the 160 Fit RC2 and forego the dual-travel option. For reasons unclear, the dual-travel version seems to ride a little more harshly over the chatter, and the benefits you may get while climbing in reduced travel mode are minimal. The Process' geometry is best in class, so switching to the longer, 170mm option might compromise perfection in the quest for some unnecessary big-hit insurance that the new 36 is already famous for. FiT refers to the bladder-sealed damper cartridge that Fox developed to ensure that the oil circuits are not compromised by foaming or cavitation. "RC2" refers to the fork's external high- and low-speed compression, and low-speed rebound adjustments, which you also specified. Fox switched from a 20-millimeter to the more common, 15-millimeter axle as standard equipment on the new 36, so you are all good. - RC |
The new Fox 36 has a revised, adjustable air spring and a reconfigured FiT damping cartridge that together, have established it as the fork to beat for maximum-impact trail and all-mountain riding.
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
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Fools and their money are soon parted though.
Zee girly men who are worried more about what the scale says will probably say differently - and that is fine.
But on the main point: this fella clearly has money and no engineering interests, so put aside the need for regular servicing as I'm sure his LBS will be well employed.
The 36 RC2 has two bike park advantages over the Pike: external HSC and a stiff chassis anchored by 20mm axle.
Whilst the Pike is great, if we hark back to its launch the PB readership slammed it for going 15mm and rightly so. In a world where rims, rear axles, bottom brackets, frame tubing and even God damn handle handle bars are getting fatter, some twat decided that the front axle should get narrower and thinner. Not lighter or stiffer, just less good than before. And then RS stuck it on this otherwise brilliant fork. At least Fox have seen sense on the 36 not to go there. But then the Pike never was a 36 competitor and perhaps it's the products outperformance which even puts it in consideration as such
So why does it not even get a mention in this discussion?
Did nobody else read that part of the article?
a B.O.S. Shock? most people say they are the best.
though i have no experience with B.O.S. most people
who spend the money are pretty happy with them.
&
"Also, I don't know sh*t about damper systems, which system should I go with?"
Aand this is how I feel about most folks coming up to me saying "duude why the f*xk don't you ride fox?! Fox is teh best dum**ss!!1!1"
Being the most expensive doesn't neccessarily equate to being the best.
Honestly...."cost no factor" why in the hell is your only consideration a Fox? Oh....that's right, cause you have no f*cking clue and just buy whatever the interwebs says.
It's not for everybody (mostly because of price and aesthetics) but it's WAAAAAAAYYYY better than any Fox out there. this video explains it well:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WlRqcAQr2w
@rupintart
Ive had a 36 talas and a Pike dual position and on both bikes lowering the front end on steep climbs is night and day better..
Stick with the Pike...the performance difference between solo air and dual position is nonexistent..cant say the same for talas forks
Riding a Pike Solo now and it feels great, was wondering about the performance difference with the Dual position though.
So on a bike like my Lenz, I have a 130/130 and 160/150 with one bike, a flip of the switch and a rocker change.
Until your name is on the shock, I'll take the techs at RS word over yours.
People are such blind fanbois it's sad. I'm in the process of building a Ripley to replace my Lenz- I was able to change my Talas from 160/130 to 140/120 with just some spacers and a new bumper. Can't do that on a RS dual position.
The 36 Talas is such a flexible fork, its ashame people are missing out because old outdated mindset like yours.
Personally I feel the Pike is an amazing fork, but I'd change it too if I wanted more travel.
Other than decreasing the head angle, the Fox will raise the bottom bracket height. Both the Nomad and Process have really low BBs so non-issue.
Unless the rider's shock rebound is superfast, suspension won't buck the rider (especially not the fork!). I think the rider is being dominated by the rear wheel on take-off - that's why I suggest learning to bunny hop on flats. This will teach the rider to push the rear wheel into the ground, and applying this technique with appropriate force on take-off will eliminate being pitched forward.
Rocky-mtn-gman " I'm not much of a suspension guru " "I'm going to immediately swap out with the highest-end fox fork".
Sure, a guy who knows nothing about forks needs FOX top of the line fork, immediately.
But, why?
1st Question! - What is wrong with the stock fork?
2nd Question! -Why limit your self to only 2 brands of choice?
3rd Question! -Did you ride the bike you want to buy with the stock fork?
4th Question! - Have you spent enough time riding this bike to feel its stock characteristics, in order to improve upon them?
5th Question! - Why upgrade, just to upgrade, if you don't know the difference?
So than, shall we all just shut up and limit our selves? The man asking a question and does not know much. Are we going to use that to up-sell or shall we help the guy? Or really find out what matters here and what could be of benefit to other beginners as well?
Sure some might be sponsored, but most are not, we gotta make right choices that worth it.
I just can't justify it as 2 option game for the rest of us. It has to relate to all of us riders if its posted for all. Just my opinion, don't be hating.
Can't you read?
It's a smart move on the part of Fox. Personally, I prefer 20mm for the kind of riding I do and max compatibility with the wheels I have.
www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=412
"The 2015 36 FLOAT uses an all new air spring system that can be adjusted down to lower travel settings in 10mm increments. To shorten travel you will need one Neg Plate Spacer (PN: 234-04-627) for each 10mm reduction in travel desired. "
"2015 36 FLOAT 170mm and 180mm forks can be reduced in travel down to 130mm."
I didn't see any differences in weight between the 160 and 170mm version so why not get a 170 and adjust to what you want to use it for? If you get a 160mm option 160mm is your max travel option. vs a 170mm maxing out at 180mm.
j/k, run what ya brung. Can't really go wrong these days.