|A ''kicker'' is what I'd call a jump with quite a steep lip to it, and they're made to send you up higher than a mellower take off would. These types of jumps are a lot harder to ride well because they take both more skill and a proper bike setup compared to a gentle takeoff that you can just point it off and go out further but not as high. The latter point, bike setup, is much easier to get right: it's all about balance when talking about both damping and spring rate. A good bike shop can help you dial this in, and it's key to having a bike that flies predictably. Start with spring rate, then fiddle with rebound speed for your fork and shock until they feel very close to the same. Balance also comes into play when talking about your technique... if your arms are loose but your legs are stiff, and your body is too far back or too far forward, you're going to be on on a flight plan that won't end well. For now, forget about tricks and going high or far, and only focus on being relaxed and in control. - Mike Levy|
|That plastic piece is designed to protect the spokes just in case your chain drops over the top of the cassette. With a properly adjusted drivetrain this shouldn't be an issue, and you can take off that unsightly, noisy contraption without any worries. However, before you go about removing it, there is a quick test you should perform. Shift up into the largest (easiest) cog on your cassette, and gently push your rear derailleur, as if you were trying to get it to shift up one more gear. Does the chain remain on the cog? If it does, you're all set - remove that spoke guard and get out for a ride. If your chain does shift off and over the top of the cassette, there's a little work to be done first. Start by checking your limit screws - those are the two Phillips or hex head screws that prevent your derailleur from shifting too far in either direction. If it still shifts off, your hanger may be bent, which may be a job for a bike shop if you're not comfortable tackling that at home.|
Once your drivetrain is operating smoothly, now you can remove the protector. Sometimes this is possible without removing the cassette, but if it's especially stubborn you'll often need a chain whip and a lockring tool to take the cassette off and remove it. - Mike Kazimer
|The new 36 would be an excellent upgrade for park riding on your Process because it is a more capable fork for maximum travel events. I'd suggest that you stick with the 160 Fit RC2 and forego the dual-travel option. For reasons unclear, the dual-travel version seems to ride a little more harshly over the chatter, and the benefits you may get while climbing in reduced travel mode are minimal. The Process' geometry is best in class, so switching to the longer, 170mm option might compromise perfection in the quest for some unnecessary big-hit insurance that the new 36 is already famous for. FiT refers to the bladder-sealed damper cartridge that Fox developed to ensure that the oil circuits are not compromised by foaming or cavitation. "RC2" refers to the fork's external high- and low-speed compression, and low-speed rebound adjustments, which you also specified. Fox switched from a 20-millimeter to the more common, 15-millimeter axle as standard equipment on the new 36, so you are all good. - RC|
The new Fox 36 has a revised, adjustable air spring and a reconfigured FiT damping cartridge that together, have established it as the fork to beat for maximum-impact trail and all-mountain riding.
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