Ask Pinkbike: Searching for Grip, The Geometron, and Riding Wet Roots

Nov 3, 2015
by Pinkbike Staff  
Ask Pinkbike Header

Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.

Get a Grip

Question: Pinkbike user gooselogan asked this question in All-Mountain, Enduro and Cross-Country forum: I'm finding that my Stumpjumper EVO feels pretty sketchy and lacks grip compared to my brother's Nukeproof Mega, a bike that feels planted and like it has endless traction. It isn't giving me any confidence in being able to push harder and go faster. Is it just a case of playing with the suspension more, reducing the rebound, and making it softer? I'm running a Pike and Monarch Plus, with sag set to around thirty percent.

bigquotesIt sounds like you've ridden your brother's Mega and you're not just taking his word for it, and we both know that your EVO is a hell of a bike, which leaves one possible reason for your lack of faith: poor bike setup. The two things that you'll need to look at are tire pressure and suspension setup, and I can tell you that the latter will certainly need some tinkering with. Your quoted thirty percent sag figure will work on the back of your bike, but running that much sag up front will only result in way too much fork dive which in turn can make for very unpredictable handling. Here's why: picture yourself riding along quickly on a relatively flat trail, taking corners while off the brakes as you're supposed to and having a good time. Now, picture yourself attacking a steeper or faster trail, and you applying a load of brake or even just the angle of the trail will cause your fork to compress deep into its travel, thereby effectively steepening your bike's head angle and making it handle about as well as a '90s era cross-country race bike. The problem is that your under-sprung fork is making your EVO handle a certain way in one corner but then in a completely different way in the next. It will also unweight the bike's rear end, which will make it lose traction under braking earlier than it should. I always tell people to forget about running a set sag percentage when it comes to front suspension, and instead go with what feels right, which is usually way stiffer than even fifteen percent sag. Too little rebound and too soft of a spring rate will make for a very unpredictable bike, so be sure to add rebound damping as you go up in spring rate.

The other thing to look at is tire choice and air pressure. Are you running shitty tires, or are your tires pumped up too hard? Or maybe your shitty tires are pumped up too hard, which would be even worse. Buy yourself a digital pressure gauge and tinker with it; you might be able to go as low as 20 PSI depending on terrain, weight, and tire and rim choice, which is going to greatly improve traction. Use that gauge to see what your brother runs his tires at as well - it might be as simple as dropping down from 30 PSI to 25 PSI, which is enough to make a world of difference.
- Mike Levy

EWS Director Chris Ball rails one of the high speed turns above Verigotti during the media recce on Wednesday. Sadly this classic Finale weather will not be present for practice or racing as storms are forecast on and off the remainder of the week.
  The right suspension setup and tire pressure can make a world of difference, especially when things get loose. Dave Trumpore photo

Will a Geometron Make Me a Shredder?

Question: bumpytrack asks in a PM: Just a fellow rider here from Alberta. I'm a casual mtb rider and currently enjoying the benefits of the 27.5, longer reach and short stem [of my Santa Cruz Nomad.] I've been particularly interested in the Mojo Nicolai Geometron. It seems like quite a shift from even the new-school geometry being deployed on mountain bikes. What are your thoughts about it? How much would a very average rider like me benefit from it? I'm an amateur rider, intermediate (no jumps or big park stuff), but I do enjoy doing the all-mountain stuff. My biggest weakness is on the descents, particularly cornering. I'm a pretty decent technical climber in my humble mind. My rides are usually one to 1.5 hours of single track climbing and about 45 minutes descending.

I am wondering how us amateur leisure riders would benefit from the Geometron geometry as compared to shredders? I guess you would agree that investing in some good skills coaching would be a bigger benefit than trying to use geometry to improve my overall riding - IE: learning to weight that front wheel on the descents.

bigquotesYour Santa Cruz Nomad has a lot of performance waiting for you that is yet to be unlocked. You don't need a bike with deviant geometry like the Mojo Geometron. Your riding is probably only limited by experience and the difficulty of your local trails. Skills coaching at a venue that offers a lot more variety of terrain and features would get you to where you want to be in one week, while switching to a new bike with exaggerated geometry would only serve to marginally expand your comfort zone.

If you are as good a climber as you stated, you made a good decision to purchase a bike that favors descents and technical riding. Most riders buy and set up their bikes to showcase their strengths - climbers ride lightweight bikes with steep geometry and descenders prefer slacked out monsters with lots of travel - which is totally wrong. Riders should equip themselves with a bike that provides more confidence or improves performance where they are weakest. Ten-time DH World Champion Nico Vouilloz always set his bikes up to improve his weakest attribute. If he needed to pedal faster to beat a rival, he would run lighter wheels and cut his tires into semi-slicks, knowing that his technical skills would help him to minimize the time he lost on the steeps in order to take advantage of the extra speed his equipment could give him on the flats.

Choosing a left-of-center design like the Geometron makes sense for an accomplished rider who is looking for smaller improvements to fine tune his or her performance in very specific situations. Your Nomad is a PB favorite for good reason - a proven all-mountain design that has been distilled to provide a wider, more useful range of pedaling efficiency and handling skillsets. Stick with what you have and, after you graduate from your skills clinic, consider using a suspension setup that favors descending, as well as more aggressive tires, a bit more bar width and height and perhaps, moving your cleat back 6 to 10 millimeters to better center yourself on the pedals. Bank on your climbing skills and tune your Nomad to unlock more speed and confidence. - RC

Santa Cruz Nomad review
There is more performance waiting to be released from the New Santa Cruz Nomad than an average mountain biker would dream of using.

Riding Wet Roots

Question: Pinkbike user benocornish asked this question in the All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country Forum: I noticed that today when I was out riding that my biggest problem is wet roots. I ride them in the dry but as soon as it rains and they become wet and slippy I have no chance. So how do you guys ride them? Any tips? Thanks.

bigquotesRiding through wet roots is a tricky skill to learn, and it can be especially frustrating since they have a tendency to pull your wheels out from under in the blink of an eye, leaving you writhing on the ground and muttering (or shouting) every curse word you know. But there is hope, and with practice those slippery demons will start looking slightly less menacing.

The first step is to find a section of root-covered trail to practice on, one that's not too steep, but with enough pitch that you can roll through it without pedaling too much, and ideally with an obstacle-free entry and exit. This will give you a chance to get used to how your bike reacts without also worrying about falling off a cliff.

Once you've found a good practice zone, remember to relax. Stay calm, and try to picture yourself hovering or floating over wet roots when you ride through them, rather than smashing through them. Extra finesse is the key here, and you'll want to try to avoid any sudden or erratic movements. A light touch on the brakes is also helpful - just like driving a car on ice, panic braking is a sure way to start skidding out of control. Whenever possible, try to run over roots at a 90 degree angle - otherwise the chances of your tires slipping are greatly increased. You may need to alter your line choice compared to the path you would normally take in dry weather to accomplish this.

As far as equipment goes, slightly lower air pressure in your tires can help provide a little extra traction in wet conditions, but there really isn't a wet root specific tire. Mud spikes can be scary on roots, since the tall knobs have a tendency of folding over, and low profile XC tires aren't usually much help either, which is why in my neck of the woods I tend to gravitate towards something like a Maxxis Minion DHR II or DHF in the winter time - they'll still slip, but they're predictable and can also handle the mud that usually precedes and follows wet roots.

No matter what, it's highly likely that your bike won't behave exactly how you want it to, which is why it's important to work on getting comfortable with a little extra rear wheel movement. Look ahead, and focus on keeping that front wheel on track. That back end may swap around from side to side, but maintaining momentum, staying calm, and looking ahead will help you get though the slippery nastiness. Before long you might even start enjoying the challenge that wet weather riding brings - there's something deeply satisfying about getting through a jumble of treacherous roots without putting a foot down. - Mike Kazimer

Scary fun.

Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.


  • 204 15
 Bumpytrack has got too much money and time on his hands. Stay off the internet and just go enjoy your nomad, a dream bike to many pinkbike users.
  • 128 95
 "Im a casual mtb rider... Own a nomad... I dont do jumps or big park stuff"...."and now i want a geometron".... Jesus christ and holy moses..... People like you are to blame for the prices of new bikes and even new standars!!! F****k....!!!!..... I own a hardtail for enduro and downhill racing, and I spend every summer in a bike park, with the same bike.... give me a nomad and I would litteraly destroy everybody at least in my country.
This guy should spend his money in golf or anything else, please get out of my beautiful sport.
Having a nomad and dont ride it like it should its like having 90's version of pamela anderson as a girlfriend and not f*k her every single night
  • 129 11
 @tetopluz - or perhaps you should be grateful to him and people like him for buying those bikes, taking the depreciation hit, then selling them when they "upgrade" to the latest, newest, shiniest?
  • 17 15
 yeah i know... I know.... I argue today about boost and shit for hours and now this haha
  • 129 11
 It's his hard earned cash so why should you give a shit what he buys. i think everyone should buy the best bike they can afford regardless of skill level having a good bike is going to make riding more fun. some people want to buy a ferrrari to go to the mall and back not race around a track their money so who cares
  • 9 4
 I wish I had the money to upgrade to the newest stuff every year Frown . However, getting used to something and then upgrading 5 years down the road is pretty awesome. There's a reason why people say hardtail rippers are the smoothest out. Skills make up for what's lost in the tech which is why single speeders are insane so when you gain that talent and then get that newest tech, you're the f*cking terminator.
  • 41 9
 Because f*ck people getting into mountain biking, right? Elitist pricks like you are why people are afraid to get into the sport. Companies have to increase the prices to make a profit; that's due to the lack of riders, not the new riders buying bikes.
  • 27 24
 The type of people who buy Ferrari's to drive to the mall will be the first to go when zombie apocalypse happens.
  • 17 0
 I think there is something to be said for using a bike for a long time, it becomes a part of you when you ride, the best riding for me is instinctive, the more I learn my bike the better it rides and the new stuff become less attractive as I feel so rad on my bike.
  • 17 1
 I'm lucky enough to ride a nomad. I can assure you, it's not the bike holding me back but, it's myself. Having a bike like that is awesome, because it's confidence inspiring knowing i just need to nut up and ride it. I've definately gained a lot of skill, not necessarily because of the bike, but because i know i should be able to ride it and then make it happen. Can't use the bike as an excuse anymore.
  • 9 4
 I agree with JonJonM but I must admit that I do feel a little jealous when someone owns one of the nicest all mountain bikes but "doesn't do jumps". Why doesn't he at least ride a bike that is a little more trail oriented?
  • 8 0
 @JungleT couldn't agree more! I've head my bike for a while now (140mm 29'r) and use it for everything because I'm just so used to it and I know how it handles. I have never rented a bike since I got this one just because I know it's gonna feel weird, even when I ride park. Sure, it might look weird seeing a short-travel 29'r on A-Line, but theres something to be said about sticking to the bike you have and riding the shit out of it
  • 34 0
 Perhaps this guy is understating his ability, not all of us shout our perceived skills from the rooftops.. he claims to climb and descend, what this entails who knows, but it sounds little different to what i do... condemning somebody who has a nice bike and perhaps does not use it to it's full extent (because he does not do big jumps and parks ?) is condemning a very large portion of the mtb community... he made a valid request for help, and was soundly treated by the response from RC
  • 7 2
 Y'all are nuts. He should definitely get the Geometron. I ride a Nomad. It is awesome. But ... I get so stoked when I see a Nicolai on the trails. Companies that push the boundaries with their designs should be rewarded, and of all the people on this thread, OP is the only one in a position to do that. Everyone who complained the Nomad is their dream bike, how do you think you will ever get one, other than this guy getting bored with his?
  • 9 1
 I consider myself a casual rider. Having spent 7 grand on a Santa cruz tallboy ltc with carbon wheels - I am still fat. Would I be better paying to have my stomach stapled.
  • 8 4
 Waaaaa- grow the hell up. Someone has a job and bought a nice bike. Why the hell do you care? Do they somehow make you less worthy? Does their purchase of a nice bike in any way affect your riding? Or are you just being a jealous little tit?
  • 2 7
flag SlodownU (Nov 4, 2015 at 18:05) (Below Threshold)
 Well, some dude spends big money on a bike, doesn't know jack Shit, but instead of going back to the shop where said Ferrari of a bike was bought and asking (you know, customer service and stuff), the question is posed on the least reliable of all mediums, the internet, where12 year olds who think they can ride respond. Double dipshit.
  • 4 0
 you responded. So are you a 12 year old that thinks he can ride?
  • 3 0
 The love fest is over, this is the pink bike I know! just last week the author was ruminating about our passion and our poinant comments and his career and his mentors, blah blah blah. how our short term memories have failed to convert information into long term....fasinating community indeed!!!! ethnocantrism, anyone? anyone?
  • 85 1
 Roots-Go a bit faster than you think...or want to. Look at the other side of the rooty wonder and try not to slow down. Pick your line before you enter, and then focus on the exit. I also find hooting and hollering like a dickhead really helps. I love roots.
  • 6 1
 Was just about to post the same reply myself. I find a little extra speed, coupled with a relaxed body and low c.o.g, helps you skip over wet roots with ease.
  • 16 0
 When in doubt go flat out!
  • 16 0
 I find it difficult to slip on roots when you are not touching them. Use the first one as a launch and skip the rest. Or at least use the first one as a launch to keep your front tire light over the rest.
I also find it takes me a few rides to get accustom (mostly mentally) to the wet roots again in the fall.
It works great until it goes wrong... and then it goes wrong really fast.
  • 6 0
 Wet Roots: Make sure you got more guts then brains and Giver!!!
  • 14 0
 @HpSauce correction *when in doubt double it out
  • 2 0
 @Shredthenoob That is definitely a more eloquent was of putting it... I like it.
  • 1 0
 I was gonna say the same thing too - go faster, unweight the bike wherever possible and stay well away from (pick up over) any roots that aren't perpendicular to your line. Speed is definitely your friend, it's much harder to unweight your bike when moving slowly.
  • 4 0
 Don't be panicked by a little bit of wheel deflection off of roots, they nearly always will, just go with it, the bike will come back to you. Float like a feather. Tiny steering inputs. Locally i have off camber root corners and rooty berms from hell that go on and on. Get low, look for the exit, foot out, balls out.
  • 1 0
 @HpSauce @Shredthenoob, a rather famous Colin Mcrae quote, one that works very well though! Try not to turn whilst on roots too, that'll just make things worse, just straight line it all, if possible.
  • 2 0
 Different roots are slipperier than others. Best thing first of all is your rubber... I find black chili the best thing for wet roots. Learning to ride with maxxis 60a ot harder compared to even a race king supersonic which is black chili makes a huge difference. For dh I love a conti kaiser project or mud king up front and a maxxis dhr st or cut wet scream out back. Find something that works for you and just practice.
  • 1 0
 Try to keep your front wheel orthogonal to the roots. Maintain speed, and look past the roots.
  • 6 0
 Orthogonal is 0.001% faster than perpendicular but the truly gnar hit those roots quadratically.
  • 1 0
 @hairy-g the one and only Colin Mcrea!
  • 1 0
 Different tires for different places... those 60a tires aren't for your slippery rooty trails @betsie, they're for poor bastards like me that never see a wet root, & needs something that lasts more than 2 weeks in the land of sand/gravel over hardpack, where everything has spines & is trying to kill you(Arizona.)
  • 73 4
 You've got to be higher than a kite to pick a Geometron over a Nomad.
  • 11 13
 Nomads are tiny. I would agree with you if the Nomad's reach wasn't designed around people of around 5 feet tall.
  • 1 0
 Especially when you've already got the Nomads.
  • 7 13
flag SlodownU (Nov 3, 2015 at 17:53) (Below Threshold)
 Nomads are tiny, said no one ever. So I guess you bought the hype around 810mm bars and boost too?
  • 8 2
 They are tiny. Riding an XL and have the seat post cranked up and saddle all the way down. My 5' 3" daughter wanted to try one and she fit the medium
  • 6 0
 They are actually quite undersize though. I can actually get away riding a XL. Try that with a Yeti or a Giant in that size and it's no bueno.
  • 1 1
 I'm 5'10 with super long legs and I have a size large 2015 nomad and I only needed to move my dropper up a little bit for it to be perfect.
  • 5 0

Yes, nomads are small. Medium frame:
585 ETT
415 R
That is small for a medium bike. Too small for me and I'm 5'6".
  • 2 1
 An appropriately sized frame is hardly hype. I've been riding a Bird Aeris, don't see much hype around this brand... I just know that it fits me.
  • 3 0
 Large frames are one of the latest thing. When I think back to racing a medium V10mk3 and a medium sunday at 6ft1.... how did I manage... I now ride an XL V10.5. Some of my best race results (and times) came on that medium V10. If I try to ride a medium now they feel tiny. Bikes that used to feel massive just feel normal now. I wonder what we will be riding size wize in 5 years time... interesting...
  • 36 1
 I swear 50% of the answers given on these question posts are basically just "get on with what you've got and stop worrying". He's got a fair point
  • 5 0
 Should be closer to 95%. For any questions in general, not even biking related.
  • 31 4
 "Are you running shitty tires, or are your tires pumped up too hard? Or maybe your shitty tires are pumped up too hard, which would be even worse."

"Your riding is probably only limited by experience and the difficulty of your local trails. Skills coaching at a venue that offers a lot more variety of terrain and features would get you to where you want to be in one week, while switching to a new bike with exaggerated geometry would only serve to marginally expand your comfort zone."

" it's highly likely that your bike won't behave exactly how you want it to, which is why it's important to work on getting comfortable with a little extra rear wheel movement"

Wow, that's a lot of common sense to pack into one post. This is the internet - where's the hyperbole? Sarcasm aside - those three nuggets are huge. Over the past year:

I replaced my stock Nobby Nics with Minion front, High Roller back, went tubeless, and started aggressively going lower in pressure - and it's like a whole different bike. Made another leap when I started tuning the suspension a bit. Huge win at low cost.

Took a skills clinic - huge difference to my riding. Best MTB-related investment ever.

Started getting religious about riding in sort of a constant state of loose preparedness, similar to what you'd do skiing varied terrain. Hugely reduced crashes and white knuckle moments, vastly increased enjoyment.

Nice job guys.
  • 14 1
 I recently went riding with a bunch of ladies, some were great riders, some were still learning. Prior to the ride, the lone other spouse of the group thought he'd be a good guy and pump up the tires of some of the girl's bikes, and I thought nothing of it. Later, while riding behind one of the ladies I noticed she was getting bounced around a lot and couldn't make any loose climbs. I asked her what tire pressure she was running and was astounded to hear that Mr. NiceGuy had put 45psi in her tires. Moral of the story: if you're lightweight with tubes, run less pressure. If your heavyweight (like me) go tubeless...and run less pressure. Pinch flats suck, and so going tubeless is totally worth the investment.
  • 2 0
 @PHeller - totally agree. I'm well north of 200#. Not a ton of rocks around here, but a fair number of roots. I found that tubeless, I can get away with 24-26 rear, 20-22 front. With tubes, anything below 30 rear caused pinchflats on the same trails. Huge difference in traction for sure. Only ever burped a tire once.

I think the high pressure thing is common with roadies and CX riders crossing over into MTB, but there also seems to be a widespread assumption that lots of tire pressure keeps you safe.
  • 1 0
 I run 25 front 28 rear. I weigh 155 and ride hard. I pump my wife's tires up to 19 front 22 rear on the same trails. She weigh's 115.
  • 3 0
 I saw someone post a formula for tyre pressure - something like your weight in pounds divided by seven plus three. And therefore unless that lady was nearly 300lbs there's no way she should have been on 45psi.
  • 4 0
 Thing is that tire volume, casing thickness, type of bike and terrain play into tire pressure. I know personally that I can't run anything less than 30psi with tubes on a full suspension bike on my local terrain. A rider of the same weight may be able to ride a carbon hardtail with 25psi, but they also might ride slower or smoother or have tougher tubes or tires.
  • 2 0
 I really don't understand how can you all run such low pressures. I weigh as much as an average petite woman, ride 2 ply 2,7'' tires, DH tubes and when I pump them to 20 - 25 psi, my rims get serious beating even on a mild rocky / root trail. When I hear that ugly bang from my rear rim, it makes me cringe instantly. Or maybe my pressure gauge is inaccurate...
  • 1 0
 What about lightweights running tubeless?
  • 1 0
 Good question. I wonder what the lower limit of tire pressure can be in order to stay on the rim.
  • 1 0
 PHeller, for me the lower limit of pressure depends on where I am riding. If I am riding loose gravelly twisty terrain with flat corners I run my tires very low (18f-22r) but on the same bike with the same tires I may have to come close to doubling that pressure not to rip the tires off on hard-packed berms. I'm 160ish running 2.1 Ardents tubeless.
  • 28 0
 If you don't know exactly why you want a Geometron, you don't want a Geometron.
  • 1 0
 I disagree. I think that if you can afford a Geometron, and you can afford to replace it if it turns out to have been a terrible idea, you should definitely get one.
  • 21 0
 "Most riders buy and set up their bikes to showcase their strengths - climbers ride lightweight bikes with steep geometry and descenders prefer slacked out monsters with lots of travel - which is totally wrong. "

I can appreciate the argument behind this statement, but I definitely don't agree. If you are a racer I get it. Winning is everything. If you are a weak pedaler you need to shore up your skills in this area to win. And the reverse may be true if you are a great climber.

But every day riding isn't about winning. It's about fun. So I don't think buying and rigging bikes to play to your weaknesses necessarily makes sense outside racing. If you are a good descender and it's what you like, then gear the bike to that. You can always slog it up a hill and be able to push your skills and the fun to the absolute max on the descent. If you are a wicked climber, than build it to that strength and feel like a powerhouse on the climb.

It's always important to work on your weakest areas. But don't suck the fun out of where you excel in pursuit of it.
  • 3 0
 I thought the same thing.
  • 15 2
 If you get 45 minutes of descending out of 1.5 hours of climbing the bike is not the thing holding you back. I'd just advise some skills coaching and ride more technical DH to raise your descending proficiency.
  • 11 1
 45 minutes descent from 1.5 hrs of climbing? Doesnt sound bad where I'm from haha...
  • 36 1
 On my local trails if I do 1 climb-1 descent then it's about 30 mins climbing, 3 mins descending hahaha.
  • 2 0
 Living in an area where the woods yell XC, I laugh and cry at the same time and laugh again while looking at my trek slash.

Up side is: I am gettong faster then an Enduro ride in the climbs and faster in the decends as a XC rider, as I ride with a guy that almost won a 24-h race in 2 man group category...
F*ck yeah!
  • 4 1
 Climbing to Descending Ratio should be at least 6:1, or your doing it wrong haha
  • 4 2
 @jlhenterprises funny guy, i guess you walk uphill and go dowhnill on fire roads? 7 to 10 km/h uphill would mean 35 to 60km/h downhill...
it's easy if you ride smooth bikepark trails, it's not if you ride "natural trails" or hiking trails full of roots, rocks and switchbacks
  • 3 0
 Thing is, for the geometron to come into its own, you would want climbing to descending ratio to be at least 10 to 1. It's a bike that would be wasted on anything other than double black diamond, beyond diagonal gnar.
  • 2 0
 @zede i did say 'at least' 6:1 (AM stuff you could pedal a Nomad up, could be 10:1). For me, much more than that would be walking up, then I'd just shuttle, or ride the lift.
  • 1 0
 i just don't see how this ratio is possible.
  • 1 0
 Well, a typical AM ride around here is about 1 1/2 hours for a bitchen 15 minute gnarly DH section. The math for that is a 6:1 ratio of climbing time vs. descending time. There are others that vary slightly. Another is a 2 hour climb for 20 minute DH, it's still a 6:1 ratio.

One of the best DH trails I know is a one hour hike for a 5 or 6 minute DH. This trail is featured on Pinkbike quite often. There is no shuttle capability, so the ratio for that would be 10:1 if you descended in 6 minutes, or 12:1 if you can do it in 5 mins.

It just math, and it's not fire roads.
  • 2 0
 @zede You don't ride up and down the same trail right? I go up three miles to get to the top of a half mile DH track and unless I am really pushing the climb, the ratio is like 15:1
  • 1 0
 Yeah it's just maths, but i was right, you don't ride uphill, you walk . And then it makes sense because you spend more time in uphill if you walk.

My point was that I ride up on fireroads and I ride down on trails. So since my average speed is like probably 7km/h uphill, i would need to have an average donwhill speed of 42km/h to respect your 6:1 ratio. And an average of 42km/h is just impossible on technical trails.
  • 1 0
 wait, i see why i'm so wrong since the beginning. Climbing distance is longer than downhill distance so average speed is no proportional to climbing/dowhill duration.
I will time myself uphill and downhill next time.
  • 3 0
 The guy in the article is talking in terms of time and not kph. His figure is 1.5 hours climbing to 45 minutes descending. The implied joke is he is either really slow gong down, or he is lance armstrong on the climb or both. Or he just lives it the most awesome mtb area ever where everywhere is more downhill than up. Haha.
  • 8 1
 Unweight the bike over short sections of root. Kind of like a hop, but don't actually catch air (unless you want too, not recommended if you are landing on roots). For extended sections, keep your weight balanced, maintain momentum, and try to keep the front tire rolling in the right direction. The back tire will follow, usually.
  • 10 1
 Seems like the guy with the nomad is making fun of Pinkbike just a little.... RC bought right into it
  • 1 0
 My first thought was WTF?
  • 2 0
 Agreed. The guy was talking smack. He was either making a satire about people who believe they need the latest industry hype to gain skills, or he was serious and needs to get out more. If the former, good job, you fooled RC. I personally can't believe a dude would need public validation on whether extreme geometry will make him a better rider.
  • 11 4
 Santa Cruz isn't hype, they are awesome bikes. Love my nomad. It's great at parks and the local trails. That bike is amazing!!!
  • 7 4
 The problem with running 15% sag in a fork is you'll only get 70% of the travel. I've found the best bet for me is to run 25-30% sag with several tokens installed so the fork ramps up fast and doesn't dive when its pointed downhill under braking.
If planted is the feel you are after and you already have 30% sag in the shock, slow the rebound down a few clicks and see what that does. Try a tubeless wheel set up as well, you can lower your PSI waaay down and that will be huge.
  • 1 3
 I overall agree with your comment but I am wondering if you will get full travel with the tokens installed? As far I understand the tokens allow you to run less psi and increase small bump sensitivity and at the same time also have a better mid stroke support without bottoming out. But won't this ramp up make using full travel more difficult?
  • 14 6
 An advanced rider can easily use all of their travel at 15% sag even with maximum tokens.
  • 9 4
 Even if I'm only using 70% of my travel, I'd rather that than f*ck up the geometry of my bike when I need it most.
  • 2 2
  • 1 0
 I've found with super slack bikes i have to run 10-15% sag measured normally. When im standing in attack mode it is lower because of that.

Generally have to tune it by feel after it's ballparked while doing the super scientific jump-in-the-parking-lot-hump-the-top-tube-test
  • 5 3
 "An advanced rider can easily use all of their travel at 15% sag even with maximum tokens."
Not sure how you would get full travel at 15%, unless you are pro, riding wolrd cup courses, or are smashing into flat landings and obstacles instead of unweighting at the right time. I'm hitting 6-8 foot drops and large jumps and only sometimes get full travel at 30%. There are such things as transitions that should mitigate how much travel you use.
  • 5 3
 OMG 6-8 feet? What a Hucker! I'm not racing world cups but running 3 tokens with 17% sag and going Cat 1 speed means a few bottom outs a run for me. Of course if I slow down I'm not putting as much energy into the bike and can get away with softer. I don't want to put you down but have you ever considered that maybe there's people who ride harder than you?
  • 2 1
 At around 17-18% on my boxxer I can bottom it out with full high speed compression and a heavier weight oil damper side. Once you start riding faster you'll appreciate a stiffer setup for those moments when you hack a line in a root section at full speed, even on a trailbike.
  • 5 0
 I wonder how much of a difference the type of fork and amount of travel has to do with it. I ran 20% sag with my Fox 34 because I found it did dive under braking. I have been able to go with close to 30% with my Pike and after a lot of playing around with it find this works best for me. Really the best advice is to play with a few different settings, sag, rebound, tokens and see what works best for you on your trails.
  • 1 0
 @NMK187 forks make a huge difference, the trails/terrain you have make a huge difference too, massive jumps and drops with large smooth transitions are one thing, high speed blown out corners another, and super steep technical trails such as the ones around here a different setup again, I am light, and my old trail were fairly mellow gradient with heaps of jumps drops and berms and I was running a soft spring in my vanillas and no compression, the trails I'm riding now I have the same forks with a firm spring and heaps of compression, still using full travel, they feel like shit on flatter smooth trails but its fine, they are flat and smooth. sag is a good starting point but go play with your setup on a trail you know well!
  • 10 1
 I decided to give it a go with "set it hard as fk" in a bike park this year and I must say I was bouncing around like an idiot, my front wheel was nearly washing out on bumpy corners etc. Then I decided to dare to ride this one section without brakes and I got enlightened. Bike just flew over sht and I had better control over weighing the bike. It was much easier to pop it and lift it over bigger features and it was much more leveled for most of the time, no back and forward wobbling throwing me out of balance. I also quickly noticed that I don't have enough skills o manage my bike at those speeds in corners so while I discovered a new world I need to do some homework before I enter it again. It is simple: resistance of your suspension should match the magnitude of forces coming at it. If you ride slow then you run it "softer", but as you progress, as the speed raises, it will hold you back because your suspension will stop coping with them and that's not only about bottoming. A wheel going into every hole is not the best thing out there it throws you out of balance and slows you down. However if you are telling a slow dude that he should run it super hard from now on, "cuz it's better" then you are a moron. As an ex-devoted catholic I can tell that we must be very aware of people who overuse the word "SHOULD".
  • 5 0
 Again I am blown away by the wisdom of Waki. Again I nominate Waki for world supreme philosophy king.
  • 3 1
 @Gingymp5 -- my point was basically this: have you ever considered that there are people that ride *not* as hard as you? Since there is nothing to indicate that the person looking for help is "expert" level rider, and you did nothing to offer any help anyway, your comments, whether true or not, aren't relevant to the discussion. It's quite clear that you just jumped in this thread to let everyone know that you ride harder.
  • 2 1
 @ecologist, I wasn't even planning on commenting until I saw someone claiming that you couldn't get full travel at 15% sag which is obviously not true. If someone is blatantly making shit up it's appropriate to call them out on it.
  • 1 0
 @Gasket-Jeff Agreed! Waki just pops in with mental nuggets when appropriate, and hilarious satire when needed. Love that dude.
  • 1 0
 What did you do to stiffen it up?
Add air & decrease sag, or add a bunch of compression?
  • 5 0
 How to get over wet roots. Learn to manual over them. Dont worry bout the rear wheel sliding cause it will. Better than the front end washing out.
  • 3 0
 I agree somewhat with what RC says about choosing a bike that will help you improve on weaker parts of your skill set but to say that doing otherwise 'is totally wrong' is totally wrong. If you're not racing and don't really care about your weaknesses then chose whatever bike makes you smile the most! Don't start cutting down your DHF because you're a slow sprinter, just sprint slowly and then get off the brakes and destroy the bit you're good at! Bit of a roadie-like performance based mentality here, which isn't a surprise to see from RC. Of course, if you do want to try and make your riding a bit more rounded, carefully made bike choice can help. Just don't think you're doing it wrong if you don't do it the way RC says.
  • 3 1
 "Riders should equip themselves with a bike that provides more confidence or improves performance where they are weakest. Ten-time DH World Champion Nico Vouilloz always set his bikes up to improve his weakest attribute." - I find that while my 140/160mm AM bike certainly allows me to push the limits of my downhill skills, I'm finding that the weight of the bike is certainly working against my lack of climbing strength and endurance. Never under estimate how much improvement you may find in riding a bike that enhances the opposite of what you enjoy.
  • 1 0
 Wet root specific tyre tioga blue dragon, exceptional wet handling, it doesn't slip at all. Also low rebound rubber makes a huuge difference. Feels like a squash ball to the touch, swallows up roots.
That said they don't make it anymore, but they do have the yellow (kirrin), which is the same but with slightly longer knobs. Problem these days is the width.
  • 1 0
 There are many great tires for wet roots favored here in BC. Maxxis Minions High Rollers, Beaver, Schwalbe Muddy Mary, Hans Dampf, Kenda Nevegals and Nexcavators. The 29 x 2.4 Continental X Kings on my Felt Virtue 920 are excellent on wet wood and roots. The long contact patch on a 29r gives them excellent grip and their ability to roll over things that catch smaller wheels makes wet roots easy. Bigger volumes and tubless for lower pressures are your friends. Easiest and best thing you can do is put any new suitable wet weather tire for your area in a sticky compound. Any such tire with fresh supple rubber and square knobs will feel noticeably better compared to your old tires. Technique wise relax your grip and muscles and get used to letting the bike slip to find the line.
  • 2 0
 Also, when riding roots...Don't move a fucking muscle! Just try and ide it out till the end and then make a big correction, if needed haha
  • 4 0
 I read "riding wet robots". I was very curious.
  • 8 5
 riding wet roots- Lower your seat, shift back and give'r
  • 1 2
 lay off bumpytrack you PB morons. Let him buy a Mojo Nicolai if he wants one. It's an amazing frame/suspension package.

My advice to bumpytrack is to try and get a test ride on a Geometron.
  • 1 3
 Mega AM is an excelent bike, pretty sure suspension tuning can get you just so far but that big wheelbase and long chainstays plus excelent leverage curve and main pivot positioning is something you can't duplicate with just fiddling with your suspension. Ex Spesh now Mega owner speaking Wink
  • 1 0
 "Or maybe your shitty tires are pumped up too hard"
Levy with the QOTD.
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