|Talk about good timing... I just spent three days painting my van with Plasti Dip, so I'm pretty familiar with the stuff. For those that don't know, Plasti Dip is a spray-on rubber-based paint that, after a number of coats, leaves you with a neat looking matte finish. The stuff is pretty clever in that the surface you're painting only requires minimal prep, and if you don't like how it looks you can literally peel it all off like a pudding skin. I've even seen people use Plasti Dip on their Audis and Porsches, which is way scarier to me than painting my $2,000 van, but there's minimal risk because it basically leaves no trace after you peel it off. Regardless, I don't think you'd catch me spraying my R8 with the stuff. What about a bike frame? Well, so long as you prep your frame properly - that means stripping it, masking off the important bits, and cleaning it thoroughly - you shouldn't have a problem. And like I said above, you can just peel it all off if you don't like the finished product. I do think that you'd be wasting your time, though, given that Plasti Dip isn't exactly the most scratch resistant stuff. Once you get an edge of the rubber coating exposed it can be peeled back quite easily, and it wouldn't take long until your frame is looking like it's been given a massage with a wire brush. - Mike Levy|
|Figuring out the correct headset can be a confusing, and at times overwhelming process due to the number of different options currently on the market. Between the different cup styles and steerer tube diameters there's a nearly endless variety of combinations out there. Luckily, most headset manufactures have fit guides on their websites that can make finding the correct replacement a relatively pain-free procedure. |
There are three key pieces of information necessary to determine which headset you'll need: head tube diameter, steerer tube dimensions, and headset type. It looks like your FR20 has a 1.5" straight head tube, which means it has an internal diameter of 49.57 - 49.61mm. Next, you need to know what type of steerer tube your fork has. There are three possibilities - a non-tapered 1.5", non-tapered 1 1/8", or tapered, with a 1.5" lower and 1 1/8" upper. If you still have the stock fork, then it's a non-tapered 1 1/8" steerer. That dimension is why the headset you're replacing is a "reducer" style headset - it's designed to allow the smaller 1 1/8" steerer to fit in the larger 1.5" head tube. The final thing to consider is the actual style of headset - is it a zero stack, where the cups press in and only extend a few millimeters above the frame; external, where the bearing are housed in cups outside the frame; or internal, where the bearings rest in cups built into the frame? I'd recommend going with a zero stack headset similar to what you already have. So, to distill all of that down, you're looking for a zero stack headset to fit a 1 1/8" steerer to a 1.5" head tube. Nukeproof does make a headset that will be a fine replacement, but you'll want to make sure to purchase the one for a 1 1/8" steerer (part #49IISS), and not the one for a fork with a 1.5" steerer. - Mike Kazimer
Finding the correct headset can seem complicated at first, but with a little knowledge it should all start to make sense.
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