Ask Pinkbike: Unwanted Unclipping, Badly Bled Brakes, & Toolbox Tips
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul-searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand-picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
How Do I Keep From Accidentally Unclipping?
Question: Pinkbike user @seanstrickland asked this question in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: What type of cleat float is right for me? I've got a set of T1's and HT offers three types of cleats for them. Two with 4 degrees of float and one with 8 degrees. My issue is that my cleats disengage when I do things like bunny hops or when I tilt my bike while in the air, many times leaving me doing a sick nac-nac to one footer lander. My pedals, tensioned full up or full down seem to not have an effect on this issue. I get that 4 degrees of float means my heel can move 2 degrees to each side and twice the distance with 8 degrees of float but what will keep my feet attached to the pedals better? This isn't HT specific, I've had this issue with every SPD style pedal I've used and these T1's are definitely the best yet, just wondering since I now have an option of a cleat with a different float.
 | I'd recommend trying the cleats with 8-degrees of float if you're having trouble staying clipped in. That extra float will give your feet a little more freedom of movement, allowing them to twist further before encountering any resistance. If your feet are still popping out even with the tension maxed out and the 8-degree cleats installed you may want to consider switching to a pedal like the Crankbrothers Mallet. Crankbrothers' design provides 6-degrees of float, but it's also possible to alter the release angle depending on the orientation of the cleat. The angle can be set at either 15- or 20-degrees, compared to the 13-degree angle of the HT T1, which will give you more room to twist your feet without having the pedals start to release. I've spent an extensive amount of time on both pedals, and found that for DH-style riding I prefer the feeling of the Crankbrothers – they feel closer to a flat pedal due to the amount of foot movement they allow, but they also still keep your feet securely in place when riding through rough terrain. |
HT's T1 pedals offer a higher possible amount of tension than Shimano's pedals...
...While Crankbrothers' Mallet pedals can be adjusted to have a 20-degree release angle.
Can't Get My Brakes Right
Question: Gbeaks33 asks in the All-Mountain and Cross-Country Forum:Hi there. I switched to Shimano XT Deore brakes last summer when my SRAM Guide RSC's started locking up in the summer heat. Everything has been fine until recently when they had to be bled and pads replaced. I bled both front and back, and since it was my first attempt at it I did a poor job. Had weak spongy brakes front and back and couldn't get either to lock up. I re-bled both and it solved the problem for my rear brake, but I can't get my front to function properly. I've since bled it again twice, same result. I can pull the front lever all the way to the bar and it slows me down, but never gets to a point where the tire locks. There's no stopping power at all.
The only thing I can think of is on my first bleed attempt I stupidly forgot to take the pads out and possibly spilled brake fluid on them. I cleaned them with rubbing alcohol and sanded a thin layer off. Re-bedding the pads [to the rotors] did not solve the problem, but they don't squeal so I don't think there's oil on the pads. Another potential issue is I didn't have an exact wrench size for the bleed valve screw on the caliper, so I used a pair of pliers to open and close it. Maybe I'm not getting it closed tight enough?
| After reading this, and about your continued frustration with getting your brakes working in the following thread, I suggest that you call it a day and have a reputable bike mechanic service your brakes. Wrenching on your own bike can be a rewarding experience in many ways, but the end result should be a perfectly tuned bike that performs dependably. There is no honor lost in having a professional mechanic tune your brakes and drivetrain. Aaron Gwin hired John Hall to ensure that his bike works properly and it seems to be working out quite well for him. Find a trustworthy mechanic and start enjoying your bike again. It's well worth the money. |
John Hall is the man that Aaron Gwin trusts to keep his race bikes performing at 100 percent. DIY pride aside, employing a reputable mechanic to keep your brakes and drivetrain in top running condition can be money well spent.
Getting into Enduro Racing
Question: Pinkbike user @bike2850 asked this question in the All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: I'm going to be getting into enduro racing this summer and I want to be prepared. What are the necessary tools I should bring when traveling to these races? Also, I have a extra set of wheels, is it worth it to take them to the races?
| Heading out for a weekend of racing can be a stressful experience, especially when you don't have a routine or don't know exactly what to expect. A lot of that stress can be alleviated with a little bit of preparation. First and foremost, make sure that your bike is working flawlessly before you show up to the race. If you aren't comfortable doing your own work, stop by your trusted local bike shop and have them take a look at it. Just don't show up with only a day or two to spare expecting them to put you at the front of the service line because you have a race to get to. As far as supplies that you take to the race, the list could be endless, but you likely won't need much outside of what you would normally ride with and carry with you on a longer ride. A flat kit, including a pump/CO2, tube, patches, and tire plugs along with a derailleur hanger, multi-tool, chain-breaker, spare shift cable, and spare master link should go on your bike or in your pack. Toss a shock pump and floor pump with a gauge you trust in the car. A spare wheelset could come in handy if you have one, along with a spare tire and sealant for those running tubeless. If you're unsure of conditions and have an alternate set of tires, you could save time by putting them on the second wheelset as well as the proper size rotor and cassette. Few things are more frustrating than attempting to seat tubeless tires in a gravel parking lot an hour before a stage starts, so a few CO2 cartridges to assist in the process is an easy way to avoid any unwanted hassles. Don't forget chain lube and cleaning supplies, especially if it's a multi-day race. Try to talk to locals wherever the race is...scour the forums for advice and see what they recommend bringing. Some trails eat tires while others choose to snack on derailleurs. You know best what you most often break riding day-to-day - that's a strong indication of what you should ensure you have and know how to fix. You could easily bring a lot more, but you have to draw the line somewhere. Unless you're at a truly remote venue, you'll likely find a nearby bike shop or fellow racer to help you out in a pinch. The most important thing to remember is a good attitude and a pocket full of "try-hard." Give it your all and have fun...maybe you'll do well, maybe you won't. At the end of the weekend, hopefully you will have had a fun and memorable outing on the bike and made some new friends while you were at it. |
You don't need to have a toolbox set up anything like Aaron Gwin's mechanic, John Hall, but a little bit of preparation will go a long way.
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
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1) don’t run clips
2) get better at what you’re doing.
3) sign up, turn up, pedal.
www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-metric-combination-ignition-wrench-set/p-00942339000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
Also try flicking and tapping the brake housing to get the bubbles to move.
That being said I used to use the bleed blocks to keep me from fouling the pads, and found that the lever throw ended up being way too far and that the pistons would never pick back up the bit of freeplay. I'm not sure if this could be remedied by
-putting the pads back in
-opening up the top reservoir and putting the funnel back on with some fluid in it
-pumping up the brakes?
I just bleed my brakes and think I didn't get any on the pads but it's a less than perfect system.
Saw recently, but can't remember where, a tip from the Parktool guy that had a really nice trick for stubborn brake bleeds: leave the funnel on and the lever depressed with a zip tie or similar overnight, works like a charm.
youtu.be/piWBVDh1pTE
Check out an auto parts store for the wrench, they will have it for under 5 bucks. Also, the mechanics lounge in PB forums is filled with skilled mechanics happy to lend suggestions to your wrenching questions. Good luck.
It turned out there was a split/crack in the inner sheath and the fluid was being forced into the outer cable, which meant there was no sign of a leak until I finally put so much fluid in that the outer cable split as well (bloody messy).
I put a new cable in and everything was fine.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxxWQ4lFHio
The easiest brakes in the world and RC decides to tell some guy he should give up.
@gbeaks33 it's mostly about getting the right tools for the job, especially a proper bleed kit including a syringe and 7mm spanner. Most importantly in my opinion is the little yellow Shimano brake block, so that your pads don't become contaminated during the process.
This video from GMBN is how I learned to do the job properly:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=COLd57jDvOE
It's possible that your pads are contaminated and sometimes you can use a blow torch to burn all the contamination off. Don't heat them red RED hot though, as this can make the friction compound become brittle and then it crumbles to pieces.
It's also possible that your pads may be glazed or contaminated beyond redemption. New pads is the only option in this case. Make sure you use the yellow bleed block to prevent contamination of your new ones. Only handle these pads after you've bled the brake to your satisfaction, and only after you've thoroughly cleaned the caliper and your hands of brake fluid.
What??
1. Use a syringe with the flexible hose to remove 25ml of fresh break fluid. Point up and push out air from syringe, fold hose at a point where there is fluid so it is sealed. Now pull the syringe a few times to create a vacuum, this will off gas the fluid.
2. Blead your breaks bottom to top with correct tools, usual method.
3. Wipe rotors with ipa.
4. Pads out pull leaves 3-5 times to bring pistons closer to rotors, but not rubbing after reinserting pads.
5. Fit shimanos cheapest pads and replace when the chamfered edge has worn away. It's just easier.
There's a lot of good advice here, and some bad (don't draw fluid from the caliper with the syringe, the fitting isn't tight enough and you will introduce air in the system).
This site has some pretty good instructions for a quick top up as well as a full bleed: www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/5-minute-shimano-mini-bleed
www.youtube.com/watch?v=piWBVDh1pTE
Definitely going to try that!
Pretty cool of Marshy to reveal some of his pro WC DH mechanic techniques.
B) Why not have the bike shop put you in their work order list, (which is currently 5 days out, or whatever the time frame is), and during that time, keep your bike, ride it, work on it, whatever. When they call you to tell you they are now ready to work on your bike, either you've fixed it yourself and you tell them to cancel the work order, or you take it in and you're only off your bike for one day. And maybe you can hang out and watch and ask questions while they do it for you. Bonus.
As for B), it's a repeated suggestion, because it makes sense and works? The shop I work at, and the 2 others I've worked at in the past, all will put your name in their repairs list when you call, as a placeholder. And then they'll call you back when they get to your workorder. I'm friends with mechanics at other shops in my city, and they all do this as well. Not sure why shops in your area won't. That's ridiculous.
Not sure what your comment about changing workflow at a bike shop, and getting them to do whatever you want, is referring to. That wasn't suggested. Exactly BECAUSE they are busy and have other jobs to do for their customers is why it's suggested that you get your name in their line and they call when they get to you. There's no suggestion that the bike shop gives you preferential treatment. ??
What’s his nuts understood the question and answered it perfectly.
But good job trying to tell someone they suck at something.
I agree with others that this is a technique problem. I don't want to assume that you can't bunnyhop using the correct technique in flat pedals, but if you can't, then I recommend you learn - you won't regret it. In three or four attempts you'll be getting a few inches off the ground, and then it is just practice and determination. It is the most important skill when riding rough terrain.
When tilting your bike in the air, clamp or push your seat with your thighs - don't use your feet to move the bike around. If it doesn't work in flats, it won't work in clips.
I somewhat agree with both camps here. Don’t just give up, but also, if feasible, go to a shop. If you find a good shop, as I was fortunate enough to, they’ll be happy to impart some of their knowledge to you along the way. My LBS happens to be a bit of a “Church of Shimano”, so they know their stuff when it comes to Shimano. When I bought the mineral oil from them, the mech gave me some tips on bleeding, and then let me watch him work on the brakes at first when I brought the bike in, which meant I got a pretty cool behind the scenes look at the shop.
I can 2nd this. Love the brakes.... hate to bleed them.
You'll find that knowing the right LBS mechanic is sometimes worth the wait and the occasional refreshment.
My wife prefers to bribe her mechanics this way than let me work on her bike. Go figure.
1) throw Sram brakes in trash (don't sell to some other poor soul)
2) buy something else, like Hope.
Gwin hires a mechanic , seriously!!
Enduro racing ......really ? Contrived bollox more likely.
Unclipping , get a proper pedal fitment or ride FLATS!!
I happily drop off my bike at the mechanic at our LBS.
I have a stand but only use it to build new wheels, it's easier to true or make adjustments with the wheel on the bike.
either way, no, it's like $30 a wheel at my LBS. a truing stand is about $80
You don't need to be a proffesor to bleed a pair of shimanos, not bleedable bin them.
This calls manufacturers to make better brakes, if you can't make a brake perform/work as intended you hire someone who does. Do you even imagine if car brake manufacturers did this?