|Your mechanic was correct about it being a common issue and that part of the problem is because the chain is in its ''most extreme position'', but it has nothing to do with the gears not being worn down on new drivetrains. The chain wanting to drop down could be put down to two reasons: 1) it might be as simple as your freehub body not spinning freely. If the freehub's clutch mechanism is sticky and not allowing the cassette to spin backwards as you rotate the cranks, the chain will tend bunch up and want to come down a cog or two when you try to pedal backwards. The solution could be as easy as popping the freehub off to clean and re-lube it. Or, 2) the more likely issue is that your chain line is just a touch out from being ideal. If your chain ring is sitting outboard by just a few millimeters more than optimal, it will force the chain to take an extreme angle when you shift onto the largest cog. This angle can mean that things won't spin freely, and you'd likely suffer from the exact problem that you're describing. This can happen with any drivetrain, and one of the solutions is to make sure that your drive-side crank is not spaced out too far. - Mike Levy|
Making sure that you have the correct chain line is important in order to keep things running as they should, regardless of how many chain rings you have.
|Every rider has their own techniques for overcoming mental hurdles, but I try to abide by the 'three strikes and you're out' rule. After scoping out the lip and landing of the jump or drop to make sure that everything lines up well, I'll allow myself to roll in three times, and if I'm unable to commit by the third try I'll hold off and save it for another day. This helps ensure that I'm focused and mentally ready, rather than rolling up dozens of times and then taking the 'Ah, f*ck it' attitude that can lead to bruises or broken bones.|
Following behind a buddy can be beneficial as well, although you'll want to make sure they're confident in their abilities - the last thing you want is to land on them after finally deciding to go for the send. The biggest thing to remember is that the gap will still be there tomorrow - taking the time to make sure your abilities match your aspirations is the best way to stay healthy and able to ride, rather than rushing into something and suffering the consequences if goes wrong. Everyone has on and off days, but with patience and by starting small and working your way up to bigger drops and jumps, it's likely the time will come when that gap will look small and doable, and you'll be able to hit it without trouble. - Mike Kazimer
|You will be able to replace the Nude TC shock on the Spark with any other unit that has the same eye-to-eye length and stroke. You can find these numbers either by measuring them yourself, or checking the technical specifications on the manufacturers website. All Scott bikes are listed in the archive section of their site, backdated to 2008. For the eye-to-eye length, use a rule to measure the distance between the centre of the two eyelets where the shock mounts, and the stroke is the length of the shock shaft when fully extended.|
Clearance is something that should be checked when installing a new shock. To do this, first fit the shock with no air pressure, and cycle the suspension through its course and make sure it doesn't foul the frame or linkage. Also, in an ideal world you would get the new shock correctly tuned for your Spark, rather than just popping a new shock in there. You won't be able to retro-fit the Traction Control system to a new shock so you will lose that adjust-ability, unless you find another shock with a lockout system. Ask yourself first, why do you want a new shock? Getting the correct tune for your bodyweight and style, and a thorough service might improve performance more than you think, and will be cheaper than an upgrade. - Paul Aston
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