Bike Check: 8.85kg Orbea Oiz Race Bike

 roughly 14,400 peanuts is closer to the standard American units.

 78.04 Quarter Pounders

 40 Big Gulps . . . . or just 6 and a half Double Gulps!

 25 cans of Coors Light for all the alcoholic's out there.

 @scallywagg: omg people really drink it?

 @bok-CZ: savages drink it.

 @bok-CZ: it's massively popular with all my buddies from the UK, that's ALL they'll drink...

 @noplacelikeloam: 40 big gulps would weigh approximately 75 pounds give or take for ratio of ice to fluid.

 @scallywagg: Alcoholics? You think alcoholics consider Coors Light beverage alcohol?

 @arek: if you consume 25 cans of Coors Light you're either an alcoholic or in a frat, so yes.

 @noplacelikeloam: Had to google it, wtf, why would anyone need to have a sugary, fizzy drink this size? I cannot comprehend it. Thought half a litre was a big drink. People are nuts!

 @gooral: Merica!

 @noplacelikeloam: lol, of course

 @gooral: Truckers when the meth related sugar cravings kick in.

 @arek: !!! Is it even available here? I had it in a America “pint of water please barman”.

 @scallywagg: Or just incredibly well hydrated.

 a case of monster or redbull from costco

 Just what I was thinking

 Also orbea claims you can save 100g if you go with the raw option.

bikerumor.com/orbea-drops-up-to-100g-off-top-orca-alma-oiz-rise-with-raw-myo-carbon-frames

 Those rotors appear to be missing the braking surface to save weight.

 @radatabs I got a weight weenie friend that runs those rotors, and if you don't replace them on time when they're worn, I've seen them self destruct. Good times ensue, as long as you're the one watching....

Oh, and the deli slicer pattern eats pads at an obnoxious rate. But hey, THEY"RE LIGHT!

 @Bob-Agg: it's faster that way too.

 These wheels weight 1369 grams,is that heavy?

 @nozes: I was thinking the same thing. Like there's less than a handful of xc wheelsets that are below 1300 so comparing these rotors to sram centerline you are saving the 100 grams you could've possibly saved on wheels. Plus I just really like the look of these wheels...

 @Bob-Agg: I run the 140 versions on my gravel bike and they work just fine.

 @nozes: It's a decent weight but you can go sub-1 kilo these days if you REALLY want to build a proper light bike.
r2-bike.com/PI-ROPE-Wheelset-29-RL-SUB1-Carbon-Gen1

 @rarerider: could you swap the free hub to microspline? These look awesome

 And valve stem caps?!

 And that they’d use AXS... it’s heavier than the regular Eagle XX1.

Not that I care about weight tho.

 @louiefriesen: No, AXS is actually lighter, believe it or not. One article said it was 5g lighter, so it makes all the difference

 @laupe: I have both. "My" XX1 AXS is 23g heavier than the XX1 I took off. I have a L 2021 Epic but I doubt you would save 20g in cable from a L to a Medium frame. Personally, there is a lot more time made in the perfect shift every time than the 23g savings by sticking with cable shifting.

 @WRXJim: Ok, nice. The article i read probably measured stock cable and housing. And yes there are a lot more you get out of perfect shifting vs lighter drivetrain

 @louiefriesen: cable housing and cable will weigh over 50 grams on any size bike, AXS is lighter marginally

 @WRXJim: cable housing and cable will weigh over 50 grams on any size bike, AXS is lighter marginally

 @fastbike99: ik that now I’ve been reading the comments.

 @krka73: You don't need brakes, they'll only slow you down.

 Same material as Berd spokes: UHMWPE.

 I would not trust the seat clamp to survive long in today's courses -- unless you stand the whole time.

 Go with lighter wheels to offset the weigh of a real seatpost clamp and better discs.

 @mrkkbb: You mean the mount of the saddle? I run that exact seat post with the loops for years now and it never failed. I have it on my (8.5 kg) XC fully and I also ride Enduro trails with it. It's perfectly fine!

 @proxient LOL!! That made my day.

 @mrkkbb: 2mm UHMWPE cord has a tensile strength of close to 1000kg. It's plenty strong enough for this application.

 @dsut4392: Exactly, isnt that cord like twice as strong a steel of the same dimension?

 i think the seat is held on with string......Brilliant comment Everyone else. Whoosh.

 Huck to snap

 And the decals on the fork!

 @SCCC120: Or removing half the fork! Oh wait...

 I always wonder why they all run such long tubeless stems as well. Not like you need them that long to get a pump on.

 Shave the little hairs off the tires too

 I'm pretty confident that xx1 mechanical is lighter even with cables aswell, there's also a few lighter wheels out there and the frame can be raw to save weight, and eewings are lighter than xx1 and im sure theres more niche cranks which are even lighter. they didnt do the lightest build they could.

 @B3NBiker: AXS is actually about 5g lighter than mechanical XX1. And if you are thinking about eewings titanium cranks, they are not lighter, eewings: 400g, XX1:363g boh without chainring.

 @laupe: I looked at weight of xx1 with chainring vs redwings without, I think there definitely are lighter cranks than xx1 though. From what I found, xx1 axs shifter and derailleur with batteries weighs 457g and xx1 mechanical derailleur and shifter with inner cable and no outer cable weighs 389g and I don’t think the outer cable will weigh 70g. I could be missing something though so there’s the links to what I saw

bikerumor.com/unboxed-sram-eagle-axs-xx1-xo1-actual-weights-install-notes

bikerumor.com/sram-xx1-x01-eagle-specs-actual-weights

 @B3NBiker: Just found out that E Thirteen XCX cranks are lighter, but lots of horor stories with them.
Axs weight with bar clamp is 457, without clamp 445g. Mechanical is 388g. 445-388=57g. I just checked the outer housing on my orbea oiz and the weight is about 60g. So about the same wheight

 I have to agree. While this is a nice build and I respect the effort, we have been spoiled by Dangerholm's spectacular builds. This build lacks the polished details and refinement we are used to seeing in these super bike builds.

 just put 1L water bottle on this bike, and you are on

 @jpnbrider: it would have to be slightly less than 1L. You have to factor in the weight of the empty bottle.

 @danielfloyd: Good thing my water bottle is only 2.5 cups.

 @jpnbrider: If you make this bike heavier they will weight the same!

 Was thinking the same thing. I wouldn’t trust those rotors even on a kids bike

 @chadtague1: I run these rotors with Magura and they work amazing, especially for XC brakes,they seem to be very reliable.

 @iliketorailcorners: Ive been running them for years too. No issues... They do get brake fade though on loooong descents. (touches wood )

 I was thinking this too. Bye bye water bottles

 [Edit] "advanced polymer thread," not carbon thread.

 lighter cranks, brakes, drop the lockout...

 @IsaacWislon82 Suspension came stock, so i guess they didn't bother changing it, wheelset doesn't make sense unless you want mega stiff wheels.

@aer0 Which cranks are lighter?

 @laupe: loads of super light cranks, E Thirteen XCX or THM for super bling.
As for wheels, something like Roval SL's or any number of super light options using Tune, Carbon TI, DT180 hubs... you can still have nice complaint wheels.
The reason I suggest suspension is I have the same bike, its Push to Unlock by default. This can be changed to Push to Lock easily or three position levers quite easily for a more user friendly solution with less weight.

 @aer0: Ok, the E thirteen are a lot lighter, but lots of horror stories with them.
As for wheelset i meant that the Biturbo RS doesn't make sens for THIS build (as it's heavy), unless you want super stiff wheels.
I also have the same bike, but why would you change it to Push to lock?

 @laupe: regarding push to lock, for 99% of single-track XC racing you would have your suspension setup tuned to be in open mode surely? that's how I operate anyway... then for those climbs on wide 4wd road, tarmac sprints etc then you would enable the lockout

 Nationality checks outs

 I'm guessing the owner of this bike rides a hell of a lot more, and a hell of a lot faster/harder than you do.

 I have absolutely no trust in that seat clamp using the carbon thread...as cool as it is

 @LeDuke: Probably rides like that on another more capable bicycle.

 @SATN-XC: It's the same material used in Berd spokes, climbing ropes, ship cables, tow ropes for off--road vehicles, etc. Not "carbon thread".

 @LeDuke: thank you, "advanced polymer thread" ....I didn't know what they were called.

 @SATN-XC: just call it dyneema so at least a portion of people might know what it is

I’d rather have the market monopolized by one brand with a catchy name than write out “ultra high molecular weight polyethylene” every time

 One of the Orbea OIZ that won the Cape EPIC was a "regular" mid range OIZ TR 10 (120 mm version) OMR frame. Thats kinda slap in the face of the factory stuff.

 In most cases they didn't use the lightest parts. I don't know the discs but the rest of the parts are all very sturdy despite its weight. For example I have almost all of the daring stuff on my (even lighter) XC fully and I race with it and also ride Enduro trails. Never did something break in over two years now.

 @SATN-XC: I ride that saddle mount and seat post for several years now. Never had any problems.

 4lbs is a 20% weight increase, thats pretty significant.

 yup. numerous places it could have been made lighter, tyres, derailleur cage, brakes. I would have used lighter wheels, installed a short travel dropper post such as bikeyoke divine SL & ended up much the same weight.... but being picky as it IS a cool bike & I bet its a rocketship

 @scantregard: I agree

 How is 1369 grams "quite heavy"?
Obviously the goal here wasn't building the lightest bike possible,or another components would have been used.

Using these wheels the bike gets lots of attention,and I think that is the main purpose of the build.

 @nozes: I am sorry, but if you use Darimo, Kogel, Garbaruk and other exotic lightweight parts, your goal is to make it light. That's how I see it.
Building an 8.8kg XC, is pretty much a statement. They could obviously go lighter, eventhough Bike Ahead BiTurbo RS is extremely beautiful and exotic, they might have used other brands to go lighter.

 @yetiyot: Garabaruk stuff is know for being fragile/light. My Garbaruk cassette has been bomber.

 Yes, i have a friend with a 992g wheelset

 @laupe: I have an 896g wheelset with BTLOS/Extralite/BERD, only 22mm inner diameter though.

 @EdSawyer: Nice!

 The Bike Ahead Composites Wheelset alone is 3500 Dollar, made in Germany - yup, pretty expensive!

 possibly (I haven't checked weight).... but not if you factor in the removal of cable, housing, and bolts related to same.

 Mechanical can be lighter, especially with some of the boutique super-light cable/housing systems out there. The real weight-weenie choice is XTR mechanical with fiber cables and super-light housing.

 It’s definitely heavier. Weird article. “We made a light bike but weirdly selected some heavier options for no reason”

 AXS is actually 5g lighter than mechanical

 @laupe: Nope: www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/sram-x01-eagle-axs-vs-shimano-xtr-m9100

And - AXS is sprung weight too, whereas XTR is ~150g less sprung weight.

 @Linc: XX1 AXS is lighter than XX1 mechanical, was what i was thinking about, not comparing to shimano.

 @laupe: maybe with stock cables and housing, and then at what length? But there are options to shave weight over those stock housings and cables, as I said before.

 @justinfoil: Yes, stock.

 At least!

 Yes, i haven't thought about that, but that's actually insane

 Even in the World Cup not everyone uses a dropper post.

 The limit of the darimo seat post it 90 kg. I think there are no other parts which have an even lower weight limit. So the overall weight limit of the bike should be at 90 kg.

 @juuro: Disqualifies my 100kg then. Carbon splinter enema is not a goal to have in life.

 @tmxownrsgrp Really?! I was just thinking about how annoying it would be to set-up / live with.

 @krka73: Live with? How often are you moving your seat around?

 @justinfoil: Where do I start? Set up, nightmare getting strings around seat rails unless you're an ace at tying your own fish hooks. Install has got to be annoying because everything is loose and floppy while you try to get that initial tension. Adjustment, getting the strings sitting exactly where you want on the rails when you finally get to your fore-aft. Seat angle, torquing bolts, threaded barrel twisting against string tension, good luck.

Riding, strings as mud catchers. Crash, if your saddle gets slammed out of adjustment, good luck dealing with that on the trail.

I can't think of anything but weight and looking nifty as a positive about the design.

 @krka73: That's all install.

Mud? Wash it.

Crash misalignment (well, I'd bet something's broken anyway, but...), just need to loosen and realign, not necessarily gonna need to rethread or retie.

Lack of weight and looking nifty are THE positives, that's the whole point.

 @justinfoil: Cool, different strokes for different folks. Perhaps buy one & enjoy. Hard pass for me in perpetuity.

 @krka73: then why did you feel the need to say "Really?!" when OP said they liked it? Different strokes and all, except when you don't like something.

 @krka73: Actually if you have two hands it is not that complicated. I have that seat post since three years now and I did install three saddles on it. Here's a video with instructions. Does it take longer compared to a "normal" saddle mount? Of course. But it's on in under five minuted even if you do it the first time.

Mud is not an issue here. I ride all winter and I never had a massive amount of mud under my saddle. And it's easy to clean just point a hose at it.

I never had a crash where my saddle got slammed or broken. Not in 20 years of mountainbiking. And I ride more than all the people I know. Also if you would have an impact on the saddle the loops should even be an advantage because with a massive force the loops should have a small amount of stretch. So you should have a little bit more tolerance to prevent a broken saddle.

In conclusion I would say your concerns are more theoretical they are simply not an issue except you are a saddle tester or like to throw your bike on the saddle.

 @krka73: The darimo T1 saddle install video with the loops: www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wTxtLP_2OI

 @justinfoil: Because I'm still surprised anyone would want to deal with that nonsense over the myriad proven conventional designs. But obviously some think it''s a good idea, so by all means, have at it.

 @juuro: Well, I've seen many saddles, posts & clamps broken in XC racing. Maybe my friends just suck more than average.... so my experience leads me to believe it's a bad solution.

Glad the setup is working for you.

 Sound I send pictures?

 a lot of them are probably ridden more than you think, i've probably done 30,000 miles on mine, 30+ xco races, 6 stage races, including cape epic, not had a single problem