Kasper Woolley came into the Crankworx Summer Series Downhill with two sprained ankles. One of the only riders racing on an Enduro bike, he still pulled off a second place finish. Woolley was just 0.9 seconds off World Cup stalwart Finn Iles and fended off big names such as Mark Wallace. Safe to say he's one to watch so we took a look at his Yeti SB150 race bike.
This is Kasper's first year on 29" wheels and after an initial breaking-in period, he said he is now loving it.
Battling against 200mm travel DH bikes, the SB150's 150mm of rear travel was enough for Kasper to pilot his way to second place.
Going against the trend, Kasper prefers running a 10-45 tooth cassette over the wide range 52.
 | I don't like the range because it's pretty hard on the climbs, but the short derailleur stays more out of the way and is harder to break.—Kasper Woolley |
Kasper was running the same suspension settings as he was in the Enduro on his 36 and Float X2 shock. Minimal compression for max grip.
Coming from a BMX background, Kasper runs Time pedals and prefers an older broken-in pair over freshies.
OneUp are Kasper's major sponsor and he runs the full cockpit including EDC tool.
The OneUp cockpit is paired with a 210mm OneUp dropper to keep the seat slammed and out of the way.
Kasper went full Enduro and was racing with a spare tube and water bottle.
DT Swiss EX511 rims laced to Chris King hubs. Kasper is quite particular about running 28 spoke rims as he likes to have some flex in the rear end.
Plenty of chain slap on the SilverStar DH track.
Extra Kashima on the Switch Infinity link.
Shimano XTR 4 piston brakes.
Being a fairly light rider, Kasper runs a Cush Core XC insert over the heavier duty version and only in the rear.
A fast-rolling combo of Maxxis DHF front and rear.
Don’t worry this is only a joke for those of you that can’t understand sarcasm.
Perhaps you are measuring size in a way that’s different than current convention (top tube, reach)?
I am only looking into this because what you said sounds wrong. Certainly looking like it is. If you had said that for Pole or Nicolai, I would have believed you, but Yeti?
2: In 99% of cases a riders set up will be closer to open than closed, so you save yourself time by counting from open. Very very very few ppl are running compression nearly closed and in that case they most likely need more air pressure, volume spacers or a damper re tune.
3: When you are re building suspension you move the adjusters to fully open as this opens the oil flow paths for bleeding the dampers. Again saves heaps of time and then you can set the clickers straight after your finished re building the shock without having to pointlessly move them all to closed.
But please explain why you count from closed?
Rebuilding suspension, of course you open things up all the way. But you always, always count from closed when you're done.
@spaceofades by dead clicks are you refering to clicks that dont provide damping effect? e.g first 7 clicks on the grip 2 HSC? if so that has no accuracy on the accuracy of the clicks as the clicks are controlled by detent balls with set clicks, that can only be wound out so far. Counting from open will not yeild different results as counting from closed so not sure what your getting at there??
Boys it’s no use lol he will learn some day
Oof
might be a pretty common issue if you ride hard even as an average joe?
Another internet rumour regarding the 130 I came across when researching before I bought was that you could not run a 2.5 tire in the rear, it did not have enough clearance and would rub they said. This turned out to be false as I run 2.5WT DHF on my TR 38s and have plenty of clearance. It's worth noting that not everything we read on the net is true! lol
Coming from a Yeti dealer I didn't further question it.
I also run 28h rear, with 157*12 wide flange hub it seems to offer good strength/weight and some compliance. I weigh 75kg/165lbs for reference. 1 year in them now, 1740g 29" with DT XM421 on 350 SPs. Have dented the rim on some park runs but otherwise holding up surprisingly well.
I think a good pair of rims is the most important , better have a good strong 28holes rim over a standard 32h one
Dt ex 471 / 511 look verry good for this kind of use
What size yeti is he on? And how tall is he really?
I have the same on my enduro/park bike with the gs cage mech for the exact reason he mentioned.
Surprised to hear he doesnt like the range. I'm not putting down pro watts (by a very large margin) and it works fine for me in the mtns. Shorter cage means better shifting, better clearance and less weight.