Mountain Bike Geometry: An Overview Geometry is something you hear about all the time when talking about bikes such as, "I love this bike's geometry!" or "Our bikes' geometry are the best in the business..." But what is geometry, and what makes it "good"? If you are a bit confused as to what exactly geometry is, then this blog should clear up any misconceptions you may have.
Introduction Geometry is the set of all the measurements on a bike. Every angle and tube length is a part of a bike’s overall geometry. Geometry affects the feel of a bike more than anything else. This is why you can’t take a cross country bike and turn it into a downhill bike. No matter how bombproof you build it, it will still feel out of place and awkward because the geometry is geared towards cross country.

Courtesy of Igz
Headtube Angle The headtube angle is the angle the headtube forms with the ground. The steeper this angle is, the faster a bike will turn and the better it will climb. A slacker angle provides for slower steering and is a bit harder to climb with but provides stability at higher speeds. A typical cross country bike will have a steep headtube angle, usually around 71 degrees. A downhill bike on the other hand, will have a much slacker angle, closer to 65 degrees.
Wheelbase The wheelbase is the distance from axle to axle. The longer it is, the more stable the ride will be. However, this added stability sacrifices maneuverability, especially at lower speeds. Conversely a shorter wheelbase will handle quicker and livelier. It will also make a bike easier to spin. Longer wheelbases tend to be found on downhill bikes because they benefit greatly from the added stability. The Demo 8, for instance, has a 47 inch wheelbase. Street bikes benefit more from the agility of a shorter wheelbase. For example, the NS Suburban has a 40.75" wheelbase.
Chainstay Length The length of a bike’s chainstays directly affects its wheelbase length which affects maneuverability and stability; thus shorter chainstays make for a snappier ride. Shortened stays also make a bike easier to manual, hop, and pop. Short stays also make a bike easier to control in the air. This is why short chainstays are a must have for dirt jumping and street bikes. Shorter chainstays also leave less room for flex, causing immediate power delivery to the rear wheel. For reference, the Session 88 DH has 17.3" stays whereas a Dobermann Pinscher's stays can get as short as 14.75" with the wheel slammed.
Standover Height The standover height is basically, the inseam of a bike. Low standover heights are sought after in all disciplines of mountain biking simply because no one likes taking hits to the crown jewels. Slipping a pedal often ends in tragedy for the male genitalia; a lower standover height reduces the chances of this occurring. Dirtjumpers and slopestyle riders also prefer lower standover heights because it makes certain tricks, such as cans, easier. Shorter seat tubes tend to have lower standover but this is not always the case. Recent advancements in hydroforming (essentially bending) aluminum tubes have lead to a dramatic decrease in standover heights in newer model bikes. Giant, Specialized, Santa Cruz, and Norco’s new lineups are great examples of this new trend.
Bottom Bracket Height Bottom bracket height is most important when it comes to cornering. The lower the bottom bracket, the lower the center of gravity and the easier a bike will corner. However, clearance is also an issue. If the bottom bracket is too low, then the cranks, pedals, and bottom bracket shell will be prone to hitting rocks and other trail obstacles. Also, the bottom bracket height lowers as a bike moves through its travel. Part of the reason 14 inch travel bikes never caught on is because the bottom brackets had to be placed ridiculously high so that the cranks wouldn’t hit the ground when the linkage compressed. This made these bikes incredibly unstable through corners and relatively useless for anything other than hucking. This is also the reason why some frames can be run with a 24 inch wheel option while others cannot.
Top Tube Length This is the length between the center of the seat tube and the center of the head tube, as the crow flies (a straight line, ignoring any curves in the actual top tube). Shortening it can lead to a shorter wheel base. The ideal top tube length varies from user to user. Larger frames have longer top tubes. Some people have longer arms and torsos than others, thus they feel more at home on longer top tubes. If you buy a bike and feel the geometry is a bit too stretched or cramped, experiment with different stem lengths and setback seatposts before returning or exchanging the frame.
Seat Tube Angle This is much like the headtube angle except instead of the headtube, it’s the angle the seat tube forms with the ground. The seat tube angle affects where the cyclist will be seated on the bike. This affects the rider's alignment with the cranks. A steeper angle moves the hips forward which allows the rider to turn the cranks faster. This is why standing up provides more sprinting power.
-Michael “
AqueousBeef” Zhao
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104 Comments
Very true.
longer chainstays give you more front wheel grip - because you have more weight over the front wheel, and they help when climbing for the same reason; you can pedal hard without just lifting the front wheel.
450mm chainstays are the future! (17.7")
more front wheel grip, and easier climbing, they're not unfashionable this week are they? - i'm very old, it's hard to keep up with what's 'in'.
if you want less front wheel grip, and harder climbing, then go-short-stay-go! whoo-woo!
(i ride a mountain bike in Yorkshire, i have to pedal up hills)
its a shame there is no mention of "Front Centre" in the article, this is the dimension from the bottom bracket shell centre to the fork axle centre, and actually explains alot more about how a bike will handle than a vague top tube measurement (which can be "actual" or "effective")
something else regarding chainstay length is that manufacturers should start producing size specific chainstays, as a small frame with a 16.75" chainstay will have a different weight distribution to a medium or large frame from the same manufacturer with the same 16.75" chainstay
for large frame sizes, the chainstays should ideally be a little longer to maintain the fore/aft weight balance otherwise a large rider is actually penalised
Transition / Turner's "Reach and Stack" does not actually work properly because if you take 2 identical frame geometries but one has a longer head tube, and one a shorter head tube, you have completely different reach and stack measurements, despite being able to level the head tube length different using different choices of headset, headset spacers and stem rise
Reach and Stack only works as a comparison to existing geometry information
the best way to find out if a bike geometry works for your body size and riding style, is to test ride the bike you are interested in, a good bike shop /dealer should offer you this possibility, otherwise take your money elsewhere!
I am a fan of short chainstays on my cross country/freeride bike and my dh bike. A bike with long chainstays is too hard to bunny hop and kind of dangerous on low speed drops= less fun!! So for me short chainstays = FUN and that's what it's all about.
i wish there was a bike shape modeller online that you could input the angles/lengths and compare different bike shapes by flicking between them... if theres a programmer out there please build one!
Like some of the others said, axle to crown height, reach and stack ( I think this is very important for DH), How to change geo with sag/axle to crown/wheel sizes etc., How the changes on geo effect bike handling/intented use. How forward and rearward pivot points effect handling/intended use.
Not asking for much ah!
Those kind of articles should be more common and will make all our other wheels up there start turning better
Example: A 160mm fork installed in place of a 140mm fork will decrease the head tube angle, shorten the reach of the assembled bike, and possibly lengthen the wheel base.
Good article man, this will hopefully help allot of noobies. One common mistake that is made while purchasing a bike is solely basing your purchase off of looks. All these measurements differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, ride allot of different bikes when buying a new one, find one that feels super comfortable, then, decide style over function, or function over style....
maybe you're confused with thinking that equilateral triangles always have equal length sides?
Nice article, btw.