The Cannondale Jekyll has undergone a number of revisions over the course of its existence, but the latest update is the most significant yet. The bike is still rolling on 27.5” wheels, and retains the ability to switch between two different travel modes (either 165 or 130mm), but the proprietary Fox Dyad pull shock found on the previous models is gone, replaced by a Fox Float X Gemini, the result of another Cannondale / Fox collaboration. The one-sided Lefty fork has also disappeared, at least in its longer travel configuration, and all of the Jekyll models are equipped with more traditional looking suspension.
Cannondale Jekyll 2 Details• Intended use: all-mountain / enduro
• Rear wheel travel: 165mm
• Wheel size: 27.5"
• Carbon front triangle, alloy swingarm
• 65° head angle
• 420mm chainstays
• Boost spacing front and rear
• Sizes: S, M, L, XL
• Weight: 30.2 pounds (size L)
• Price: $6,000 USD
•
www.cannondale.com The Jekyll's geometry has also been altered, and if you've been following the recent geometry trends you shouldn't have any trouble guessing most of the changes. That's right, the Jekyll is now longer, lower, and slacker than before. Cannondale slackened the head and from 67° down to 65°, and also shaved 20mm off the chainstays, shortening them to 420mm. All of these revisions were designed to make the Jekyll more capable than ever, an attempt to create, in Cannondale's words, “the best enduro bike on the planet.” Did they succeed? I spent three months aboard the yellow and green machine to find out.
The Jekyll 2 tested here comes in at $6,000 USD, with a carbon front triangle, an alloy swingarm, and a build kit that includes SRAM's X01 Eagle 12-speed drivetrain, a 170mm Fox Float 36 Performance Elite, and WTB i29 rims shod with a 2.5" Maxxis Minion DHF up front and a 2.4" Minion DHR II in the back. There are three other models in the lineup, beginning with the full alloy Jekyll 4 that retails for $3,199, all the way up to the top-of-the line full carbon Jekyll 1 for $7,750 USD.
Frame DetailsThe Jekyll 2's front triangle is constructed from BallisTec carbon, which Cannondale says uses fibers similar to those used for military ballistic armor, combined with resins that are typically used for carbon baseball bats. In other words, it's designed to be stiff, strong, and able to withstand the hard riding the Jekyll is intended for. The swingarm is aluminum, which helps reduce the overall cost of the bike. Looking for all-carbon everywhere? The Jekyll 1 has a full carbon frame, plus carbon wheels, but it'll cost you $1,750 more than the Jekyll 2.
The derailleur, brake, and dropper housing are routed inside the front triangle, with the brake and derailleur housing running externally under the bottom bracket. Yes, it would have been nice to see that housing run above the PressFit30 BB, but for what it's worth, I've spent countless hours on bikes with similar routing without any issues. That's not to say that pinching a cable is impossible, it's just that it's very unlikely.
Even though the Jekyll has Boost spacing, Cannondale decided to offset the rear triangle by 3mm towards the drive side. Called Asymmetric Integration (Ai), the offset rear end was first seen on the Scalpel-Si and F-Si cross-country race bikes, and is designed to increase wheel stiffness, along with allowing the bike to have short chainstays with plenty of tire clearance.
How does an offset rear end increase wheel stiffness? It's the same concept as a rim with asymmetric spoke holes – by shifting everything over, it's possible to have the same spoke tension on the drive and non-drive sides of a wheel. What does that mean if you need to swap out the rear wheel? It means that you'll need to budget in some time to re-dish the replacement, otherwise the tire will sit too close to the drive side chainstay and swing arm. Cannondale may have their reasons for the asymmetric rear end, but I would have liked to see a 'regular' swingarm - who wants to re-dish a wheel when you need to install a spare?
SuspensionCompared to the previous version, the new Jekyll's rear suspension layout looks like it was turned inside out. It's still a link-driven single pivot, but rather than sitting just above the bottom bracket, the shock is now situated between a boomerang-shaped carbon rocker and the upper portion of the downtube. Along with making it possible to run any metric shock on the market, the new orientation leaves just enough room underneath the rocker to squeeze in a regular sized water bottle.
The Jekyll's Fox Float X Gemini can be switched between either 165 or 130mm of travel via the handlebar mounted remote. When the remote is depressed, the shock's volume is reduced, which makes it impossible to compress it more than 130mm, a design that's similar to what we've seen Scott use on the Genius. The bike's geometry remains the same, but the decreased travel alters the bike's personality, making it better suited for climbing or more rolling terrain.
The handlebar mounted remote is used to select between either 165 or 130mm of rear travel.
GeometryThe previous version of the Jekyll was on the steeper side of the enduro-geometry spectrum, but that's no longer the case, and with its 65° head angle and 470mm reach (for a size large) it won't have any trouble fitting in with the cool kids. 470mm is on the longer side of things (at least for now – more and more large bikes are being released with similar numbers), but the Jekyll's 75° seat angle and short stem should help prevent the cockpit from feeling overly stretched out when climbing. The Jekyll's reach is fairly long, but the chainstays are downright stubby, measuring in at 420mm, an impressively short figure for a bike with 165mm of travel.
Specifications
Specifications
|
Price
|
$5999.99 |
|
Travel |
165mm |
|
Rear Shock |
Fox Float X Performance Elite EVOL w/ Gemini remote-actuated dual mode air spring system, |
|
Fork |
Fox Float 36 Performance Elite, FIT 4 damper, 170mm |
|
Cassette |
SRAM XG-1295, 10-50T |
|
Crankarms |
Truvativ Descendant Carbon Eagle, 30t |
|
Bottom Bracket |
Cannondale Alloy PressFit30 |
|
Rear Derailleur |
SRAM XO1 Eagle, 12-Speed |
|
Chain |
SRAM PC-XO1 Eagle |
|
Shifter Pods |
SRAM XO1 Eagle Trigger |
|
Handlebar |
Cannondale C1 Carbon Riser 780mm |
|
Grips |
Cannondale Locking Grips |
|
Brakes |
SRAM Guide RS |
|
Hubs |
SRAM 900 Boost |
|
Rim |
WTB Frequency Team i29 |
|
Tires |
Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5", Minion DHR II 2.4" |
|
Seat |
Fabric Scoop shallow |
|
Seatpost |
RaceFace Turbine 150mm dropper |
|
ClimbingWith two travel options and three compression settings on the rear shock, there are plenty of ways to make the Jekyll feel exactly how you want. Like it as firm as possible? Flip the Float X's blue lever all the way clockwise and push the travel adjust lever down and you'll have rear suspension that barely moves, a setting that's best suited for spinning out the miles on the road to a trailhead. I played with all the different options (a handy way to pass the time on those never-ending climbs), and found that I preferred the shock set to 130mm of travel and in the middle compression setting. This still allowed for enough rear end motion to keep the wheel gripping, but it also minimized any unwanted movement during out of the saddle pedaling.
For a bike that's billed first and foremost as an enduro race machine, the Jekyll surprised me on multiple occasions with its excellent climbing abilities. The weight is reasonable, but it's the comfortable climbing position that makes the Jekyll an easy bike to get along with.
One ride in particular was full of tight, gravelly, uphill switchbacks, the sort that are hard to get around without losing traction or putting a foot down. With the Jekyll, as long as I could get the front wheel to begin making the turn, the rest of the bike would quickly follow suit. The short back end made it easy to pivot on the rear wheel, and awkward switchbacks and tighter, technical climbs were dispatched with minimal fuss.
Of course, this is still a long and slack bike, but I'd say it's one of the better climbers in this category, which includes bikes like the Specialized Enduro, Santa Cruz Nomad or YT Capra. Even towards the tail end of a big ride that included 10,000 vertical feet of climbing I found myself making it up sections of a tricky ascent that I have a less-than-perfect batting average on, a testament to the Jekyll's ability to keep on cruising upwards even when my brain was partially melted from miles and miles of pedaling.
DescendingCannondale calls the Jekyll's two travel options “Hustle” and “Flow,” but I think “Seek” and “Destroy” has a better ring to it. After all, with 165mm out back and a 170mm Fox 36 up front, the Jekyll is built for more than just 'flowing' down the trail. Forget all of the acronyms and technobabble surrounding the Jekyll – this is a bike that likes to goof off, to drift around tight corners, manual at any chance, and generally cause a ruckus out on the trails.
There's plenty of smooth, plush travel to monster truck through the roots and rocks when necessary, with just enough ramp up in the Float X to avoid any harsh bottoming out. The rear suspension has a fairly linear feel to it, but I was content with keeping the bike in its stock configuration, although it is possible to add spacers to increase the amount of end stroke ramp up. I ran the shock with 30% sag, and didn't find any reason to deviate from that number.
Even with all of that travel, the Jekyll is still very manageable, and it's easy to see how it would serve well as a race bike – there's a quickness to its handling that makes it easy to keep up the pace even through slower speed or less steep sections of trail. That trait sets it apart from a bike like the Santa Cruz Nomad 4; while the Nomad needs a steady diet of steep, rough trails to remain happy, the Jekyll is more of an all-rounder - I'd happily take it on longer backcountry epics, or to a multi-day race like the Trans-Provence. There's a dramatic difference in how the two bikes feel on the trail - the Nomad hugs the ground, and prefers to plow straight down the fall line, while the Jekyll sits up higher, and feels more like a beefed up trail bike rather than a mini-DH rig.
There are as many opinions about the ideal chainstay length as there are marshmallows in a box of Lucky Charms, but it's important to remember that they're only one part of the geometry equation. In this case, they serve the Jekyll well, and even with the longer front-center I didn't have any trouble feeling balanced on the bike in the long-travel setting. There's plenty of room up front to provide stability in the steeps, while those short chainstays allowed the rear wheel to whip through the corners with a satisfying amount of speed.
In the shorter travel setting, which I typically used on smoother, jump-filled trails, I did notice that I needed to be more conscious of my body position in order to remain balanced between the 170mm fork and 130mm shock. That's a pretty big travel difference, and it gives the bike an entirely different feel – there's more of a platform to push into when it comes time to pop off the lip of a jump, but there's also not as big of a cushion when it comes time to touch back down to earth. I actually didn't end up using the shorter travel setting for descending as much as I'd expected – even on trails that weren't that rough, I still preferred the more balanced feel offered by the 'Flow' mode.
Component Check• Travel Adjust: Having the ability to switch between two different travel modes on-the-fly is novel, but the execution on Jekyll still isn't entirely perfect. I experimented with various positions for the dropper post lever and travel-selector, but their shapes just don't allow them to integrate seamlessly. I still had to lift my hand slightly off the bar in order to reach the adjuster with my thumb, and it never really became second nature.
I can see why Jerome Clementz uses a twist-shifter to switch travel settings on his race bike – that seems like it would be much easier to use, and would free up space for the dropper post remote. Or what about something like a toggle switch that took the place of the inner lockring for the grip? In any case, the system works, but there's room for improvement.
• SRAM Guide RS brakes: I'm pretty picky about my brake lever position and feel, which is one of the reasons I like the pad contact adjust feature found on the Guide RSC and Ultimate models, a feature that's missing on the Jekyll's RS brakes. I'm sure that was done to keep the price down, but I would have gladly given up the carbon cranks or carbon bar for an upgraded set of brakes.
• Fabric Scoop saddle: Seats are about as personal as it gets, but the Scoop's shape fit me well, and it didn't call any unwanted attention to itself, even on all-day rides.
• WTB Frequency rims: Alloy rims may not get the attention that their carbon siblings do, but the Frequency i29 held up for the duration of the test period with only one dent to speak of, caused by landing directly on a sneaky, pointy rock. That impact did pinch flat the tire and squish the rim's sidewall, but once I got home I was able to straighten everything out, and it was almost as good as new.
• RaceFace Turbine dropper: My track record with the Race Face Turbine dropper post is mixed, but this one worked flawlessly, without any change in its performance. There was no slipping, sticking, or sagging, the three most common ailments that can plague dropper posts.
Pinkbike's Take | So, is the Cannondale Jekyll the 'best enduro bike on the planet?' Well, I don't know if I'd go quite that far, but I will say that it's a damn fine attempt, and this is certainly the best Jekyll yet. The geometry updates have turned it into a more potent race weapon than ever before, and even riders without any intention of rolling up to a starting line will find that it delivers a very enjoyable ride on just about any type of terrain. — Mike Kazimer |
About the ReviewerStats: Age: 35 • Height: 5'11" • Inseam: 33" • Weight: 160lb • Industry affiliations / sponsors: None
Twenty-two years deep into a mountain biking addiction that began as a way to escape the suburban sprawl of Connecticut, Mike Kazimer is most at home deep the woods, carving his way down steep, technical trails. The decade he spent as a bike mechanic helped create a solid technical background to draw from when reviewing products, and his current location in the Pacific Northwest allows for easy access to the wettest, muddiest conditions imaginable.
please bitch...
Those "all carbon fiber guys" then see a rock garden and walks whit the bike to avoid cracking the bike or scratching his high end bike.
Then go to the Bikepark and see 20 teenagers ripping the course on 10 year old sit bikes,do you need carbon or big balls/cojones?
I mean I can understand if your last try on a lefty was like 10 years ago, but the relatively recent supermaxes and lefty 2.0's have been fantastic. Also the inversion keeps the wiper seals constantly lubricated in bath oil so small bump sensitivity is amazing.
Not a lefty fanboy or anything, always ran Fox on my own bikes, but I don't get the completely unwarranted hate for it. It's a clever design and it does its job well.
It always seems to be that the people who slate the lefty either rode one ten years ago, or never have..
In my experience, anyway.
The XC Lefty's are great. The longer travel version suffers from a distinct lack of torsional and lateral stiffness, and the wheel wanders a lot in rock gardens and such.. I know Cannondale loves to claim it's stiffer, but basic physics dictates otherwise: the lack of a complete box section greatly reduces the cross sectional moment of intertia, which means in the lateral and torsional directions the lefty does not match conventional forks in stiffness. Fore-aft it may be better thanks to it's dual crown attachment.
according to "basic physics" a square tube in torsion supported by needle bearings could very well be stiffer than two tubes under bending.
Whatever.
Railing a berm would be a much better stiffness test
There is a company that does aftermarket shims for the lefty, and maybe with a custom shim for your weight thats done better the lefty can shine. However, the main reason why the lefty was dropped on longer travel rigs is because it didn't sell well and probably had poor profit margins.
Oh brother.
At least this crack'nfail looks like a big boy bike.
It better be easy to service given how much time you'll spend replacing those seals...and jokes aside, it's not any easier to do a basic oil change/wiper or seal service than a modern fork from fox or rockshox.
Not to mention the poorly controlled compression damping (or outright lack thereof on some models) or the hydraulic lockouts that are horribly unreliable (and work much worse than competitors forks, either feeling like a complete lockout like it slightly stiffens up the fork and then adds a ton of rebound damping) or the needle bearings that get eventually get fouled up with muck and are a pain to clean.
It isn't even good marketing for the average consumer. Between fatbikes and leftys, more people look at the fatbikes. Neither sell well. Between folding bikes and leftys, it's the same deal, but then at least some of those sell...if cannondale could use the fact that they're making suspension in-house to save the end user money for similar performance, then it'd be sweet. But that's just not the way it works with cannondale
1. Cannondale dumped their trademark green
2. Offset rear wheel, even though it is a real good idea to stiffen wheels; unlike boost
On a personal note, I'm not a huge fan of these travel adjust (like Scott Geniuses) or remote lockouts. Keep it simple : Transition Patrol is a fine example of this.
I also felt that the review was interchangeable with any enduro bike review of the last 2 year : " for a 165mm it was really good on the climbs"; "on the descents it was a beast". Time to become more demanding and specific
You need to buy new spokes of equal length like if you are building a front wheel.
The rear wheel feeling is very solid,if you loose spoke tension or broke 2-3 spokes (I loose 6 spokes in 1 ride,impossible to feel on the bike,I see it at home) the wheel is still going reasonable straight,any chatter or weird things.
My bike is the 650b f-si and I ended up slinging in a 29er rear haha. it worked, the paints gone from about 3mm of the chain stay but it also meant I hadn't wasted a 2 hour drive.
I was thinking something was wrong but then I realize that the internal cable routing was a little bit loose and make a knock noise inside the frame . Check if your cables are tight at bb area,in my case the brake cable was loose and make that weird noise like little rock impact or shock cracking,it was touching inside the frame at shock high.
Other good thing,check if your bike has any loctite in the bolts,cos in the manual,almost all bolts must be on loctite. I almost loose the first day 1 bolt,from the factory it seems to me that they forgot to apply loctite to my entire bike.
Another few issues I discovered in the first few months included the wrong size headset bearing, wrong brake mount on the front and a chain that had 4 too many links in it. I guess all new bikes have teething problems but I was very surprised whilst unboxing it. Luckily I work in a bike shop so none of those problems really mattered, is be pissed if I'd paid full wack for it though.
All specs on the 3 are fine, apart from rear shock. I was just making the most of cheap upgrades whilst working in a shop.
that's only $650 more
But really, who cares. They all work.
Enduro on Enduro on Enduro.
www.wideopenmountainbike.com/2017/06/photo-story-mavic-trans-provence-days-4-6
Came across as a nice bloke too.
The manufacturer sets the Canadian MSRP. Sometimes it's to our advantage, as is the case with Yeti, sometimes it isn't (SC comes to mind).
- Would you say it would be a big loss for the Jekyll to upgrade it with a new shock (Rockshox, Öhlins...) without the "Gemini system" or would you consider it a good bike anyway?
- Do you think the behavior of the Jekyll will get even better by using a coil shock (as seen on Jerome Clementz's bike on some EWS races)? Reference: enduro-mtb.com/en/pro-bike-check-jerome-clementzs-cannondale-jekyll
- To make this bike as an even more all-rounder, would you consider to reduce the fork travel to 160 mm?
Thank you in advance for your reply!
Coil shocks are a matter of personal preference, but I could see how that could work well with this bike, especially on really rough or loose tracks where traction is a priority.
You could reduce the travel, which would give it a slightly steeper HA, but it's a pretty playful bike as it is - I never felt like there was too much fork up front.
The short chainstays and high BB made steep, fast, and loose squirrely, sketchy, and terrifying. It did great on the tight and twisty medium stuff, and even in the long tavel mode you can pump and flow. Oddly, I actually liked the old Jekyll better, even with its ancient 67 degree HTA.
Damn man! You're one big mofo!
I weight 63 kg/180cm on L size frame and the stock settings feels good to me. What kind of rear tire pressure are you ridding?cos whit the new WT tires 2 bar is too much and feels hard to me,in my last bike I was ridding at 2/2,5 bar and now near 1,6.
This bike is a monster over DH stuff,very noticeable that difference whit 2-3 year old bikes like Giant ,SC Nomad,Transition patrol...
I still felt underwhelmed on the DH with this bike. It just didn't feel plush or stable at speed.
My BMC is wicked fast on the climbs, even with heavy crappy onza tires. It used to be good on tight switchbacks, both up and down, until I put the angleset on it.
On paper the numbers look good with maybe the exception of the high BB.
What Onzas are you using? I've got some Onza Ibex which I really like. They're not quite as good as DHR2's but a decent trail tyre and not overly heavy.
I ride like 55 psi+/60 psi - on forks combined whit Mrp ramp control near to max progression and 145 psi at shock and it is near to perfect for my 140 pound full equip.
I think stock bikes in L size settings are for a 165-185 pound rider. As a light rider settings are key for me, I need a very well balanced bike for my ridding style and a little bit stiffer than other guys who weight more than me.
Riding a bike whit a soft fork and very hard shock ruins the geometry on pure DH,as an Mtb guide (I try to work whit bikes all days of my life) is a very common mistake,on a 170mm fork bike if this happens your ride is sketchy and far away from feel any confidence cos the bike dives like crazy,add slow rebound and you got a bike impossible to ride.
It is very comfortable and makes you feel confident quick. One thing anybody talks about is rear wheel, it is very tough and durable,really easy to true,days ago I loose 6 spokes,yes 6 spokes and I realize at home,the wheel is still true,awesome cos I broke wheels like no tomorrow,those are taking 4month of crazy riding any problem.
I am happy with my descision
On the other hand if you try this on a Giant, Mondraker or SC it will not be a circle since the pivot is virtual (ie not on a physical pivot) and moves during travel.
Everyone wants a bike that's good at everything. Some companies have figured out how to make a 160mm bike that pedals really well (Spesh Enduro). Others make 120mm 29ers that still feel playful and can handle chunk (Yeti 4.5, Transition Smuggler).
Cannondale has taken this mission a little literally and has been trying to make a bike that actually, physically transforms from a 120mm XC rig into a 160mm playbike with a handlebar switch.
Unfortunately, it never quite works and the compromises it requires are never paid back in the promise the marketing guys wanted.
Cannondale has always been an iconoclast (the Headshock and Lefty forks, the Delta frame... and don't forget the motorcycles!) and I suppose that's cool but I'd love to see them just make a mountain bike that people love.
Lots of replies to this article harping on this basic idea.
If anyone owns a Jekyll and loves it, please forgive me. I've just never seen one on a trail.
I like it soo far.
"Single pivot bad" - harmless fool
"4 bar linkage with wheel axle attached to the same bar as the main pivot called single pivot" - Fkng idiot, the first dude does not pretend he knows something when he spits out dumb statements
""4 bar linkage with wheel axle attached to the same bar as the main pivot called single pivot" - Fkng idiot"
As far as I know a "4 bar etc" (like this bike) is called faux bar, and is form of linkage driven single pivot. Right?
To simplify, were you saying this bike is not a single pivot?
Now there was a guy that had given out all his f*cks and had none left