This weekend's Enduro World Series in Aspen, CO means a fresh set of decisions for racers and their mechanics. When it comes to wheels, choosing the right balance of durability, weight, rigidity, width, etc. can be the difference between winning and DNF.
So what do the pros think? Is carbon the way to go? Or are they sticking with tried-and-true aluminum?
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MENTIONS: @EnduroWorldSeries
211 Comments
They get a good write up and are considerably cheaper than most carbon rims but still aren't cheap
Yeah they arent cheap but in the carbon rim world they are cheap. Strong, lightish and cheap. Perfect in my book!
All are holding up fantastic after several years of abuse. I worried about the LB set as they were early versions before the beadless design came out. Never go out of true or show any signs of failure. Don't ride the rockiest terrain on a regular basis, but the aluminum rims I've expereienced all would go out of true or crack or bend the first sign of rocks anyway.
Decent allow rims cost almost as much as Nextie or LB's. Every set I build will be CF from here on out.
I need to move away from carbon now I've tried it. 3 frames this year, seat posts and handle bars in previous years. OK if your sponsored or dentist
100% happy with my DT Swiss alu rims, no comparison to earlier generation of aluminium rims!
I agree. I don't run CF runs nessicarily for weights savings, but for strength since when done right as you said I have found them to out live all my Alu rims I have run in the past and wheels stay truer as you stated as well. I weigh over 200 lbs, hard on my rear wheel wheel especially and have bashed my current CF rims with no issues other than scars and scratches. If Alu, likely dinged and hopped out at very least. I feel the same towards CF frames as well. When done right (SC) I have found them to out live ALu frames by a long shot since no welds to crack and eventually fail over time (sooner for me then I care for). So because of this, CF is worth the upcharge and has proven to be stronger for me with wheels and frames so far, when molds are done right of course.
All using nearly identical technology but using slighly varying molds or layups.
ENVE is the only one I am aware of making purely US made product in this category and they charge what? 4x what a Nextie rim is? and probably have similar failure rates all things being equal.
I would love to have ENVE wheels as I buy US whenever possible but just the rims alone are more than my Chris King homebuilt Nexties.
My experiences with CFR vs Alu as well, so I run carbon rims on the bike that sees the hardest and most use (dry weather bike) compared to my other trail bike (winter/wet weather bike) that doesn't get thrown into rough, rooty and rocky trails near as often
Should have your buddies check out NOX rims if they are cracking their LB, Enves and Royal rims. NOX just recently went lifetime warranty on their rims (retroactive too) and are 1/2 the price of Enves. The made overseas like most the rest, but I think their layups are a little different and possibly thicker and better designed at the critical areas of rim (the rim bead especially). Like I said I have 3 years now on NOX rims that have been hammered with no issues other than a couple broken spokes over that time. Prior to that I cracked two LB rims in just 3 months and many dinged out, badly bent Alu rims over the past 15 years. Should check them out if wanting to stick or go with CFR, but discouraged by experiences with other brands out there. Last time I talked to NOX they reported only one reported crack over past 3-4yrs that was under unique circumstances. I believe the IBIS/Derby carbon rims are solid as well and likely the new SC CFR rims too.
I've seen your videos riding with BKXC. You ride cray-cray and I mean this with "peace, love and envy" ????. The fact that only your rims get destroyed amazes me ????.
-Mavic (sunn, CRC, canyon) alloy
-DT (yeti, cube) alloy
-ibis carbon
While spe, trek and SRAM (lapierre, cannondale) riders might have the choice.
I remember Vouilloz's bike check where he had carbon front, alloy rear.
I don't have a good answer.
@cmcrawfo: As a recycling purist, I prefer the wood rims as well.
Waki, how did those carbon rims you got, was it from Light Cycle, about 3 or 4 years back hold up? What did you think of the carbon rim experience?
I never went for them in the end btw, instead buying a job lot of Flow rims for stock.
Yep, saw that.
I have to say, if he hadn't mentioned the "witholding sex" part, which should be the right of any human regardless of gender, but often isn't, then I thought he would have had a point.
Unfortunately, he did, which then negates the rest of what he said in the eyes of many....
I'd say I belong to the 95% riders not being in the pro league, so the 0.5 seconds I gain through extra stiffness and traction really doesn't matter to me.
So you may say its also the weight...but then all the pros pack in an extra 500 grams of Hock Norris and Co,because due to increased stiffness and low pressure rider, their tires otherwise blow up...
Basically I end up with spending much more money, ending up with more stiffness and traction wich makes no difference to me anyways and the same weight....
Plus on top of it all, whereas aluminium rims can be recycled, I fill up another scrapyard with trash, once I need a new pair of carbon rims?
So my conclusion: spending more for creating more waste ...doesn't seem like an economical nor ecological modern way of thinking to me..
Am I getting anything wrong here?
* There is an upper limit to stiffness, beyond which it's no longer good.
* Laurie Greenland in recent testing said he was fastest on 26" wheels.
* Greg Minaar is clearly fasted on 29" wheels, but is also know for loosening his spokes!
* Gwin is still blazing fast on 27.5's and suspension that is stiffer than most.
* Sam Hill rides flats.
* Sam Hill (based on comments) seems to prefer a more traditionally sized bike as opposed to something real long like a Mondraker or Geometron.
We could go on and on with this\, but the biggest take away here is that there is no single equipment recipe for going fast. Nothing those guys say should be used as absolutes to guider your buying decisions.
As you ride more and more you'll understand what works for you and make purchase decisions based on that. Until then, you don't have to spend much money at all just to have fun and go fast enough to hurt yourself. ;-)
my primary reason to get carbon at the time was lighter weight ( rear wheel weight is most noticable. every gram counts for acceleration when you mess a corner or loose speed on sketchy rock garden) , so seeing carbon rims around 500 grams makes no sense to me as aluminium rims are now well around 450-500g anyway.
I would like to try carbon again , rim weight at 360g-ish + huck norris + maxxis WT tyres.
I would like to try carbon but I would only be willing to pay $200 American per rim. I feel at current prices, even Light Bicycle, the cost benefit analysis is WAY OFF.
Carbon is cool and some people are down with spending the ducks on it, but my opinion is that you don't want that much more stiffness in the wheels. Ally provides plenty without sacrificing compliance of the system further. And the key to traction is compliance!
The failure mode is also a huge consideration. Absolute failure when you're way out in the bush sucks. Something slightly heavier but more durable makes more sense.
I agree with you that the cost:benefit ratio is way out of whack!
If was a big time racer thats the setup i would want.
It also helps if not eliminates pinch flats.
Lastly it helps if not eliminates rim damage, either cracking carbon or denting aluminum rims.
So it not all about not cracking your carbon rim.
Anything else = alloy
For the rough stuff I prefer Ally,but I'd rather make sure the sidewall and tire pressure is capable of dampening the effect of some of the chunder. But that's just my way I suppose.
I saved money but missed some days of riding waiting for replacements and spend hours lacing wheels.
That being said, $100 replacement for a flow EX or Mavic EX830 every now and again from user error is not the end of the world, but cranking out a minimum $300 bucks for a carbon rim which you bonked on a rock ever so slightly resulting in a crack is where the frustration starts.
Every rim is bound to die one day, especially when considering riding DH or "mini DH aka (enduro)"
Price vs performance/longevity generally means aluminium.
And apparently the consensus is that both are correct, depending on where you are/who you ask.
I find it most interesting that the British invented their spelling back in the 19th century because they wanted to sound "classical."
www.lostinthepond.com/2013/02/why-do-americans-pronounce-it-aluminum.html#.WX4p9ojytaQ
#TheMoreYouKnow #You'reWelcome
until it turns a uniform black.... voilah!! carbon rim!
Apologies for the previous double posts. My mobile is acting up.
I came hear for the comments