• 29"
• Full carbon frame
• 67-deg HTA w/120mm fork, 425mm CS
• 12-speed SRAM SX Eagle drivetrain
• Sizing: S, M, L, XL
• 29", 27.5"+ compatible
• Chromoly 4130 frame
• 66-deg HTA w/150mm fork, 417mm-433mm CS
• Max tire clearance: 2.8"
• Sizing: S, M, L, XL
• Available as a frame only or with a fork
• $799.99 USD (Frame Only)
•
canfieldbikes.com• 29" or 27.5"
• 4130 Chromoly steel
• 64.5-deg HTA w/160mm fork, 425mm CS
• 75-deg STA
• Sizing: M, ML, XL
• 29 x 2.8" or 27.5 x 3" tire clearance
• Frame Only - €599 (≈$664)
•
nordestcycles.com• 29"
• Titanium frame
• 67.5-deg HTA with a 130mm fork
• Max tire clearance: 2.5"
• Sizing: S, M, L, XL
• 29"
• 4130 Chromoly frame
• 65-deg HTA w/140mm fork, 435mm CS
• Shimano SLX drivetrain
• Sizing: M, L, XL
• Available as a complete bike or as a frame only
• £2,199 (Complete)
•
ragleybikes.com/• 29"
• Titanium - Grade 9
• 66-deg HTA w/120mm fork, 440mm-455mm CS
• Max tire clearance: 29"x3.0"
• Sizing: M, L, XL
• 29" or 27.5"
• Titanium
• 65 or 66-degree HTA
• 75 or 76-degree STA
• Sizing: S, M, L, XL
• Made to order to rider specs.
• Frames start at $3,500 USD
•
t-lab-bikes.com• 29"
• Titanium frame
• 67.1-deg HTA with a 140mm fork at 25% sag
• Max tire clearance: 2.6"
• Sizing: S, M, L, XL
• 450mm reach (size medium)
• $3,625 USD (Frame Only)
•
moots.com• 29"
• Alloy
• 66-degree HTA 450mm CS
• 75-deg STA
• Sizing: M, ML, XL
• 27.5" or 29" - depending on size
• Aluminum frame
• 68-degree HTA
• 445mm reach on size L
• Sizing: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL (not all sizes available in all markets/models)
• 29"
• 2.6" max tire size
• 65-deg HTA w/140mm fork, 64-deg HTA w/160mm fork, 444mm CS
• 74.5-deg STA w/140mm fork, 73.5-deg STA w/160mm fork
• Sizing: S, M, L, XL
• 461mm reach w/140mm fork, 450mm reach w/160mm fork (size medium)
• £549 / approx EUR630 / approx US$623 (Frame)
•
cotic.co.uk/• 29" or 27.5"
• Alloy
• 65-deg HTA
• 74-deg STA
• Sizing: S, M, L, XL
• Complete and frame only options
• 1,199 € / $1,199 USD - 2,149 € / $2,199 USD (Complete build prices)
•
commencalusa.com/• 29" or 27.5"
• Titanium
• 64-degree HTA, 425-441mm CS
• 77.5-degree STA
• Sizing: Long, Longer
• 29"
• Carbon frame
• 68-deg HTA (medium)
• 74-deg STA (medium)
• Sizing: S, M, L, XL
• Four build options (custom paint + €300)
• €1700 - €2900 (complete)
•
bhbikes.com• 29"
• Carbon frame
• 68-deg HTA, 430mm CS
• 74.5-deg STA (medium)
• Sizing: S, M, L, XL
• 830g frame / OMX
• $1,099 USD (Alma H30) - $7,999 USD (Alma M-LTD)
•
orbea.com• 29"
• Carbon frame
• 67-deg HTA (medium)
• 76-deg STA (medium)
• Sizing: S, M, L, XL
• 2.82 lb frame / 24.58 lb complete
• $9,900 (complete)
•
yeticycles.com
That said, it's a hardtail, so how much more stiffness are you gonna get with a thru axle? I know, discs and all...
However that zaskar brings back great memories, but I'd have to go with that sexy sage, or the Canfield these days. They make badass rigs.
I had an old Kona Coiler designed for 9mm quick release wheels, but was able to add a DT swiss 9mm thru axle and an old Saint hub.
I know it doesn't look like it, but these fit through quick release frames.
www.dtswiss.com/en/components/hubs-and-rws/rws/9-mm
Interestingly I have an old 1999-ish Spec' FSR that was QR but it was 10mm thru QR. Never understood why QR didn't go that route, Spec' was ahead of the times with that setup.
www.pinkbike.com/photo/16866008
How tall are you, at 5'11" I could do M/L or L. Reach is similar to my full sus on the M/L. Anyhow, have fun with the build. I miss having a hardtail.
I'm using a 50mm stem with 765mm bars and with my longish torso/arms for my height it works really well.
I'm using a MRP Ribbon set to 150mm, which is in the middle of the 140-160 suggested fork range. I tend to run a little less sag then is usually recommend, so it probably feels pretty similar to the 160 fork at race sag.
Bike is stiff and feels great. I thought it'd be a system shock to go from carbon back to steel, but honestly the bike rides so nice that I don't miss the extra stiffness of the carbon. External routing and full length housings make it a snap to work on. Ian at Chromag didn't have any issues with me adding additional bottle bosses on the seat tube, and said he wouldn't argue a warranty claim as long as the frame didn't fail at the new bosses.
To be fair I've only delt with Ian or Seb at Chromag, but those guys have been super easy to get ahold of and have taken great care of me.
Its nice to be at the trailhead with a bike that no one else has for once. After years of riding Gary Fishers and Treks, which have all been great bikes, but common, I like being there on something different.
If Chromag showed up with a good susser, I'd probably buy it tomorrow to have a two bike quiver again, but for now I'm so happy with my Rootdown, I won't consider adding another bike.
One additional step I took was using Frame Saver to coat the frame internally.
"In it's 5th revision, the Rootdown has undergone only a few updates for 2020. We have increased the reach and dropped the seat tube length across all sizes, but other than that it remains largely unchanged. If it ain't broke..."
I've owned three high end steel hardtails, all REEBs, and it was worth it when the frames were ~$1600 price point. They were lighter and more compliant than comparable mass produced alternatives. That said, they've since jacked up the price to $2100 for frame only in steel, which means their ti offering is closer to those in this listing. There is no way I'd pay that for a frame only, so they've priced me out sadly. That's the point where the benefit starts to fade and I'd rather put the extra $$ into better wheels or components instead of the frame.
But yeah I get that rear suspension does have some advantages that a hardtail lacks so it may all be worth it. Silly enough, last weekend I noticed that when rolling with others on full suspension bikes (Starling, Santa Cruz, Cannondale) I was going the same pace gently pumping and coasting whilst they were pedaling. I don't question their skill though of course they may not have same urge to pump the bike over the terrain. But it got me wondering, do full suspension bikes respond worse to pumping than hardtail bikes do? If so, then that could be a huge advantage of hardtails. I don't care too much about the pedaling efficiency but I do care about pumping the bike. I have to add I'm running 26" wheels and their wheels were bigger, could have been a factor too.
Will they use it that often? No.
Can they flex on the peasants and appreciate it the times thry do use it? Yes.
nsbikeusa.com/collections/eccentric/products/eccentric-cromo-29
BTW- sussed out your profile, those trails you built look pretty damn sick
got a deedar from them as my first real HT and its enough for all of my local trails + makes them fun again. everything really great value from oneone.
on the test: the steel version of the pipedream moxie is as sexy as the shown ti-version + comes with eeeeeven sexier colors
Honestly, if Voodoo wanted to do something similar, they'd find some great influencers, get feedback on what makes a sweet modern hardtail (for bikepacking, dirt jumps, or general all-mountain), then give said influencers those bikes to post up all over Instagram.
My XC bike is still a HT. I raced a full season (local pro) on a full suspension bike, and I am back on a HT. I won't go back to a full suspension XC bike ever again. And if my budget someday limits my options, I'll go back to a HT trail bike.
HT's are underrated. They aren't just for beginners.
Had a zaskar team in 2003 that got nicked, Z1 BAMs too.
3 Sanctions that snapped around 2007
Then a zaskar 9r think 2010 that snapped 3rd week in. Just went shite after selling out
For those that only have a FS and have never tried a quality steel HT or Ti, then riding one might open your eyes a bit. Very different to a FS; but equally or even more rewarding.
Bike is great and in most trails is doing just as fines as my Capra(not on the DH tracks though) but there is this rewarding feeling that you get from hardtails...
kingdombike.com/collections/all-bikes/products/2020-vendetta-custom?variant=31216499556442
That said, I have a friend who has a new Rolex submariner, It’s hard to say it’s worth anything near the 8k he paid recently and I know that in 2003 they were 2.5k like for like, I suppose it’s 8k today because people will pay it for something desirable and as with all things like it, there is a queue.
'Murican steel baby!
I will shut up now, all the best.
Built up a Zero 29 in lockdown and it has been so much fun.
Also been playing around with an old hardtail and parts. I’ve tried it out with 120mm 29, mullet 120 and 27.5 front and back with a 130mm.
I’m seriously considering going back to 27.5 it has been so much fun.
Moots: “hold my micro brew”
Moots are beautiful though.
www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/hardtail/decathlon-rockrider-am-100-ht-review
Why you got that one bottle cage bolt on the top tube out in Siberia near the headtube with nothing else around and not a lot of clearance?
Scandium Honzo 29 was a close 2nd favorite HT.
“ 2. Longer reach shifts my weight forward, moving weight off the rear wheel which is helpful for increased comfort on a hardtail in rough terrain.
3. I want as much travel as possible up front to make "riding the fork" while descending more comfortable. The extra mid-stroke support of the new Lyrik will allow for this without excessive diving.”
...so, on a hardtail you tend to unweighted the rear quite a bit, putting more emphasis on what the front wheel is doing. Longer fork isn’t only to make geo work - it provides more control. I doubt you’d have the same experience on a 100mm fork, but you should give it a try
Another big thing I noticed is that when you are out of the saddle, your weight on the pedals causes that point to act as a fulcrum for forces on the rear wheel. So a impact upwards on the rear wheel transfers some of that force to move the front of the frame downwards, which compresses the fork from the top and uses your fork to help absorb and damp the rear wheel impacts. (Which is another reason why rigid bike are so painful on rough trails)
Like new reasons for buying a hard tail, too make riding more challenging?
Expect to see this used in marketing real soon?
Open to opinion can anyone think of any UK man made trail where you'd be quicker on a fully? Or section of trail for that matter?
Please tell me a man made trail centre that is quicker on a fully? Innerleithen has an xc trail, of course its ridiculous if you think I'm talking about a DH base.
I'm doing innerleithen minch moor in 1hr05 on the xc bike and 1hr15 on the enduro.
Plus for your information Scotland does not have the monopoly on gnarly DH tracks. Far from it
lets see your times for riding those trails I mentioned on a XC bike compared to a full sus. Have you been down date night on your XC bike? That is man made.
Please tell me of a UK trail centre (NOT DH CENTRE WITH UPLIFT) where it is quicker on a full sus. They are made for the masses and are great during the winter for all. We are very lucky in the UK to have so many and to keep us riding in all weathers. I do not ride half the loamy enduro tracks in the winter because it destroys them and all the trail builders hard work.
"Open to opinion can anyone think of any UK man made trail where you'd be quicker on a fully"