Check Out: Clipless Shoes, New Hubs, Pumps & Flat Fixing Solutions - October 2019

 I'm having my name legally changed to Tubolito.

 Are you really winning by paying $35 for a tube?

 @lognar: Also... IF i have to put a tube in trail side I don't want it to the same thickness as a trojan.

 I’ll take a steak Tubolito and an OrangeSeal Hi-C please.

 Can these tubes be patched?

 @vinay: they can be with Tubolito's patch kit.

 @vinay: Yes,with this:
www.tubolito.com/en/product/tubo-flix-kit

 @lognar: well if you can afford/justify $35 for a tube you must winning at something

 Love tubolitos, paper-thin but yet no issues. Been running two pairs of regular tubolitos on my dirt jump bike for almost a year now, zero issues riding even having 4.2bar pressure in them. Due to this recently replaced my wife's dirt jump bikes tubes with them aswell. If you ride something like pumptrack you will appreciate how floaty the bike gets. Got a spare lite tubolito for carrying on enduro rides. No need to tape an ugly innertube to a nice carbon frame as it doesn't take any space in the hip bag anymore.

 I bought a Tubolito for a spare. I carry a tube on my bike which weighs 290ish grams. I bought a Tubolito to carry instead at 85g. Now is that alot of money for a tube? Yes. Is it alot of money to save half a pound on your bike? No.

 @artistformlyknowasdan: Dentistry?

 @Citrons: if your wife rides dirt jump bikes does she have a sister?

 How are Tubolitos with tire gashes or slices? Are they more rigid, in that they dont require as heavy duty tire boot?

 @danielsapp: patcholito

 I bought 2 Tubolito's at the beginning of the season because I still use tubes and I rarely if ever get a flat. I really, really wanted to like them. However, the first one popped within a week, I patched it with their kit and then the valve failed less than a week later. The second one popped about another week later and the seam that glued it together just completely failed, no patch was going to fix it. To be fair, their customer service is great and after the first one failed they sent me out a new one. That one lasted until recently (nearly all season). 2 out of 3 failing though is not worth the cost of these. I have been using Bontrager XXX Lite tubes (0.45mm thin butyl tubes) since the Tubolitos failed and have yet to pinch flat one. If a super thin butyl tube that only weighs 10 grams more per tube can outperform these then I cannot give a recommendation for these even as a spare.
No I didn't use the "S" version either just the normal 26" MTB tubes. Also I am 140lbs and run 19/22 psi front and rear. Same psi with both tubes. Save your money and just get thin butyl tubes instead.
Yes, I am bitter.

 @GBeard: I've been running latex tubes until last year or so when I moved from regular tubes to ProCore. Soon enough quit using the ProCore tubes in their system but still on butyl. I do prefer latex tubes though and as I'm planning to try Tannus in the rear (sticking to ProCore in the front) I think I'll use that with a latex tube. I don't see the point of going with these tubolito tubes. I'm not concerned about weight. In my experience latex tubes are less likely to pucture as they can strain more.

 @donpinpon29: hopefully she's a triplet. I'd like the 3rd one please.

 @donpinpon29: RIGHT?!!!

 had em for a long time now and i love em not only they're light and strong, but you can keep em at the bottom of your bag for a looooong time and they still look new and ready to go, unlike butyl tubes

 @Citrons: not sure why you’re being downvoted. Thx for the info!

 @vinay: "...Tannus in the rear, Procore in the front"... I like that phrase

 @lognar: It’s probably cost me ~40 cents/ride by now to save the space and weight of carrying a full sized tube.
I’ve had to install it once after snapping off the tubeless stem after plugging a puncture. The tubolito got me home.
Totally worth it to me.

 @Tmackstab: good point

 Turburrito priced themselves based on condom price ratio?

 @GBeard: I'm not gonna lie, even though you're light, those are low pressures for tubes. Especially if you're charging.
My impression of these tubes was that they were just to get you home. Then you'd whip them out, fix the problem and be tubeless again.

 @ChazzMichaelMichaels: @GBeard: lets be real. Thats just low. Even with inserts and tubeless thats low af.

 Yes it is low, but my point was one had a faulty valve and the other just burst at the seam. Also I don't get that many flats even with thin butyl tubes. Only the "S" version are designed to be a spare. If you look at their own website you can see the regular tubes are meant to be ridden full time : www.tubolito.com/en/product/tubo-mtb
"The riding safety is twice as high as for standard tubes and offers maximum protection against a breakdown."
"Tubolito tubes are also a lightweight alternative for tubeless riders."
They definitely aren't twice as safe as standard tubes let alone thin ones, and the "are also" part implies (to me, at least) that their main purpose is to replace standard tubes.

 @vinay: I use (and for the last 3 years) procore rear, since it is rare to flat front tyres.

@GBeard: thank for sharing. we'll look into those bontrager tubes

 @danielsapp: I have used patch kits for vinyl (like for inflatable swimming toys etc.) succesfully. A lot cheaper than the tubolito kit and is available in most hardware stores.

 @chyu: To be fair they are way cheaper than a kid.

 For emergencies I carry a slim road tube. Same size as $35 Tubolito in my pack, but 1/10th the price!

 @Tmackstab: I agree! Also, according to their website the "spare" version is 45 grams. The 85 gram version they claim is twice as durable as a standard tube.

 they need US distribution. Ordering to the US adds another hefty shipping fee. Not only that but every tube you order gets it's own shipping fee. Tried ordering two but no way in hell I was going to spend $50+ to get two tubes.

 @generationfourth: REI and amazon dude. Or ask your LBS.

 @lognar: thanks, last I checked (a while back) I couldn't find them anywhere besides from tubilito themselves.

 Sounds like something from PJ Masks

 What part of "Ultra-lite tube for emergency use" do so many people here seem to be struggling with?

 Yes the "S" version is designed to be a spare. I was commenting on the regular version which is for normal tube use. If the normal one is complete garbage, how do you think the one that is twice is thin is going to perform? Did you even read the comments? I figured as someone who has actually used the tubes I could tell people how these actually perform. They perform like shit. You're welcome.

 @friendlyfoe: The concept itself. If the conditions are such that you punctured the regular tube, tire or damaged your rim such that it doesn't seal and you'd define it as an "emergency" then it seems odd to me to install something that's weaker than what just failed.

@TDMAN: I currently still ride with ProCore front and rear. I appreciate the option to ride with low pressure in the outer chamber. Typically 0.9bar in the front, 1.1bar in the rear. The pressure from the tube ensures that the tire beads stay put and make it easier to install the tire with a mini pump. If I can't install it out on the trail, I'm not going to put it on my bike. Annoying situation I have now is that I punctured the rear tire just next to a center knob. It does seal but when I apply much pedal power (especially when climbing) the tire deforms so much that it pulls the hole open again. I tried to patch it but it doesn't seem to work. Apparently the knob pulls a crease open that creates a new channel when I stomp hard on the pedals. So now I'm running over 3bar in the tire (in the outer chamber indeed) which limits tire deformation but obviously also limits my rear tire grip. Fun at times but obviously not ideal. I love the very low pressure in the front and can do with a higher pressure in the rear, but over 3bar is a bit much. It seemed to me Tannus could be a nice experiment. It is still easy to install (as it just takes a regular tube) and also provides damping (hysteresis), which seems like something nice to have in the rear tire.

 Had one as a spare strapped to the frame of my bike for about 6 months. When it came time to use it on the trail to fix a pinched tyre, it was hell to inflate. Could not inflate it with a normal pump. Has to use a co2. Within minutes it lost all its air (faulty valve?). Ended up borrowing a regular tube from a friend and fitting that. When I go my home and inflated it to check it, it only inflate in one section of the tube, blowing up as an air balloon!! I was worried it would explode so I just deflated it it and threw it away...bad luck? Definitely sounded like a faulty unit but I m not gonna gamble another 30€ for a second chance...

 Phrasing, people..

 haha. yup that's about it. ordering

 @fries: they knew what they were doing.

 @pancakeflatted: have you never watched Archer??!!

 @fries: I haven't!

have I not lived?

 Vaping bad for you just twist it neat

 Real men smoke the big ass cigars

 @pkrides: While intellectuals smoke a pipe

 Smokes are for jokes bud.

 Already have one on my ebike head unit. ; )

 Sponsored by Viagra

 Careful. Remember what happened to Richard Cunningham when he said a similar thing?

 They replaced a broken axle(?) in my rear hub without any questions. 10/10 would recommend.

 @rewob: He'll ya Profile been killing it for years. Went to the HQ in Florida, mad cool crew. Been rocking their stuff since early 90's

 I don't really get this move. The new hubs are a lot less engagement. The old ones were known for a lot more drag than pretty much any other high end hub. There are so many extremely high quality made in USA hubs, I don't see why you would choose these

 @rewob: this is literally why they do that so people go outbof their way to recommend products they can break instead of buying stuff they can't break. And before anyone says all products can break that might be true but not all products are profile prices

 @browner: Does Profile break? Seems they have pretty reliable stuff.

 @adrennan: They were known for having less drag than anyone else. Everyone tends to agree that they are really fast hubs. Their downside was weight, but they rolled so fast that it didn’t matter.

 @TheR: I snapped an axle in my Elite's a few years back. They moved on to a stepped axle design that solved the problem by beefing it up. I however did NOT get the hook up like rewob... They have however hooked me up every time I ordered from them AND if you call in you'll get someone off the floor who takes the time to talk through any issue you have. They sent me 5 end caps for free to trouble shoot an issue with rear spacing.

 @TheR: Well for the record I have my S&M box race bike laced in profile parts older than most of you. Used to teach now I preach, bike still rips though.

 @TheR: my buddy ordered an all ti profile bmx hub back in the day. Received brand new in the box full of metal shavings. Look up profile hub wobble.

Not bad but idk sometimes seems more about the bling factor then straight up quality.

 @core-macneil-rider: Well that sucks, but let me ask you — was your friend’s problem with the metal shavings an exception, or the rule?

Profile has been around a long, long time—probably longer than any mountain bike company. A company that’s been around that long with as many customers is bound to foul up here and there on a single product. But overall, their reputation is good. If you were to throw out the same question about Specialized, Santa Cruz or Trek, for example, I think everyone would have a buddy who got some crap from these companies, but these are most likely one-offs. I’ve never heard anyone else say Profile is known for shipping their products full of metal shavings.

That said, Profile mountain bike products are hit and miss. I had a DH-1, and it was a horrible bike, but maybe it was up to snuff with other downhill rigs of the day. It had Profile hubs, and they were fine. The Profile stem was ok, but their mountain bike bars did not fit in the mountain bike stem. Kinda stupid, no? They also had another stem called HIP, which was just silly. I had their billet chainrings and guard in it, and those were nice for 2001. The mountain bike cranks follow in the tradition of their BMX cranks, but are a little heavy and overbuilt for mountain bikes. I also have a DSL-1 frame, and you’ve never seen better craftsmanship. I do think other companies do mountain bike stuff better, but my perception is it’s not bad production, it’s generally bad concepts by a company that does BMX stuff first.

 @TheR: profile hub wobble is a pretty known thing. Minis have been around a looooong ass time.

Profile had a good rep cause they invented the chromo tubular 3 piece crank and I believe we’re one of the first cassette hubs.

That said their cranks aren’t made like they used to be for the most part. They used to have multiple sets of arms that were different weights but also different strengths.

Metal shavings in the hub not sure. But I’ve seen hubs put together improperly(I five profile the benefit of doubt and say it coulda been a distro person playing with it before it shipped out) hubs that were mismachined
Hubs develop wobble after a handful of rides.

The original SS high flange hubs that predate the minis are bomb proof. Had one that had been through multiple pro riders including Steven moxley. Minis really are more of a race hub. Their cranks while nice aren’t the lightest or strongest. Their front hub while durable enough for pegs isn’t as light or as strong as many other options. If you want their cassette design you can get a primo and even drop in the ti driver. And the og primo mix hub was bomb proof unlike the mini.

That said the z coaster gets nothing but good reviews haven’t heard of any hub wobble issue with those. And apparently profile eventually fixed the issue with the mini hubs that caused the wobble though I’ve still seen it develop just been awhile since I’ve seen a brand new hub that needs a f*ckload of washers to be able to be used.

Profile has a good rep in many ways but also not the best rep for such an old company. And remember A) it’s always been lighter than a lot of other stuff
B) it’s made in America which is a big deal to a large portion of bmx’s main market C) it’s always been considered the high end option D) the company is literally called profile Racing.....

As far as their parts I’d say it’s no better than S&M and their stuff is also American made and often less expensive and better quality for certain stuff.

You pay more for it being produced where it is and a bit extra for the name. Don’t get me wrong I enjoy some of their parts but the price isn’t only for quality it’s also a decent bit the bling and bragging factor of American made parts.

 @core-macneil-rider: I have a Primo remix on one of my bikes and it is mega fast and sounds great. Profile hubs were always for racing and very light but never had too many issues. Also have a few pairs of profile cranks older than some people on here that still rock.

 @TheR: for mtb I’d be more likely to go profile

Bmx stuff gets beat on hardcore no suspension after all. Other than their coaster hub.

For racing bmx there’s better options like a stealth. For straight up high engagement or just above average there’s loads of cheaper stronger options.

Then again though, hope I9 Chris king and Hadley would also all probably be on my list of mtb hubs.

And rear hubs specifically profile had one of if not the lightest hub set ups available for a long time. As well as being one of the loudest hubs available. With more engagement then anything else other than a primo mix which was a clone. Or a Chris king race specific hub that’s stupid hard to find and has disc mounts in bmx spacing. And the king has a much larger minimum rear cog size. Profile used to have 8th drivers available.

But if you look around in bmx specific stuff, forums and shit you’ll see profiles rep isn’t as rock solid as it seems. General rule of thumb is if you ride street and do lots of grinds they generally don’t hold up well.

Cranks despite the lifetime warranty not as great as you’d think unless you get the old DJ arms which were stronger than the race arms.

Stems are stems but I hated my profile stem. Their sprockets are ok but I’d rather a Tree bike co sprocket any day

Their cranks are also known to get wobbly and to use a different spline pattern to everyone else.

Like for the price of profiles new 22mm 48spline cranks I could get a set of MacNeil cranks or animal cranks that use the same spline set up as profiles new spindles meaning buy a ti spindle drop it in the akimbos or MacNeil cranks and you’ve saved money and gotten something lighter and stronger and still with sprocket bolts.

If you just want profile but don’t care about bragging rights you get Madera parts

 @jorgeposada: my buddy has profile arms literally older than I am and yet his newer profile arms that should be better all break easier and weigh much less than his older set of arms.

Let alone the old ass 22.2mm cranks they used to make.

Or that the high flange hubs were bomb proof and also probably older than I am.

Newer profile and older profile aren’t the same.

That said yeah they’ve made some good shit. And even their new more race specific cranks are still better than some freestyle cranks you can still get better for the money or just less in general.

Also for the time yeah a SS high flange was light. But by today’s standards it’s heavy as f*ck. Pretty sure a ratchet with chromo bolts and chromo Center axle weighs less.

Where as the mini rear in female form weighs less than some front hubs if you go with the ti bits for it. Plus having to double spring your pawls or run a dry hub or with triflow or similar type lube only isn’t something everyone would say is great at that price point. Wanna grease the thing up to reduce rolling resistance and make it less noisy too bad profile it’ll slip. Double spring it and run thicker grease quiet but wears out faster and requires more frequent grease changes then other hubs and still risks slipping and still isn’t dead quiet.

 Outside of racing, I don't think there is a reason to use CO2 cartridges. Let alone bring entire CO2 carriages.

 @vinay: why ?

 @vinay: Because you'll never have to take a tire off to patch it from the inside, right? Then use the CO2 to re-seat it? No, never happen.

 @JohanG: Do people still need high pressure or high flow stuff to install tubeless tires then? I admit I don't ride tubeless but I had the impression that modern wide rims don't need anything funky to install a tubeless tire. I ride with ProCore (which does use the tire as an air chamber) and can easily install the tire with a mini pump. If real tubeless tire setup on the trail requires a disposable CO2 cartridge then to me that is a flaw. I'm surprised the tubeless propaganda complains that riding with tubes implies people litter them when they puncture even though everyone I know takes a punctured tube home in an attempt to patch them) whereas a used CO2 cartridge truly is waste.

 Most importantly, you wont look like you're jacking-off trailside with this mini-pump design.

 @vinay: CO2 cartridges are recyclable. Tubes aren't (once they can't be patched no more). I don't know how many do actually recycle cartridges, of course. But they can be.

 @vinay: it's just easier to use CO2

 I like to refer to my Dynaplug as "Mr. Stabby"

 Right because having a metal spike in your tire is a good idea.

 They're great if you want to pay more than $2/plug.

 In the real world angle bearings are a PITA with no benefit.

 They do have more drag, but are also stiffer under lateral loads, of the sort that you get in your hubs, they will also last longer in these sorts of situations, due to them being better designed to take lateral forces.

 Yes they have more drag and they are dependent on preload, while radial bearings cannot handle as much preload. I am suspicious of angular bearings in assemblies where preload cannot be set and limited (Shimano hubs have this, as do bottom brackets). The preload in this hub would be dependent on thru axle tension, and there is no preload limitation system such as WI and Syntace have.

 @Borgjonny What a shity comment.

 do it for the grams.

 @cool3 Gramweenies.com list weight on almost everything that you can think of

 They left them beside most peoples cares.

 Are you still riding 26" wheels? 40 sounds really high for modern equipment. 30 is the new 40. \m/