Crankbrothers' Mallet DH pedals are a familiar sight on the World Cup circuit, and now the company is hoping to make their mark on the enduro race scene with the release of the Mallet E.
The new pedals use the same 4-sided clip-in mechanism as the Mallet DH, but they have a 12% smaller profile and are 50 grams lighter. They also have a lower q-factor of 52mm versus the 57mm of the Mallet DH, which keeps the outboard portion of the pedal a little farther away from rocks and other trail menaces. Six removable pins are found on each side for extra grip, along with two removable polyurethane traction pads that are available in different thicknesses to allow riders to fine tune the interface between the pedal and shoe.
Crankbrothers Mallet E Details• 6 adjustable pins per side
• Aluminum body, chromoly spindle
• 52mm q-factor
• Replaceable traction pads
• Internals: cartridge bearing, bushing
• 5-year warranty
• Weight: 425 grams
• MSRP: $165 USD
•
www.crankbrothers.com In between the Mallet E's aluminum body and the chromoly spindle is an Enduro cartridge bearing and an Igus bushing that was developed specifically for Crankbrothers. A new double lip internal seal system is in place to keep water and other contaminants at bay, and there's another external seal to add further weatherproofing. The Mallet E pedals have 6 degrees of float, and the supplied brass cleats can be set at either a 15° or 20° release angle. 5 year warranty. Weight: 425 grams. MSRP: $165 USD.
On the Trail For riders accustomed to the feel of Shimano's SPD pedals, there's a distinct difference in how the Mallet E pedals feel underfoot. Where Shimano's clipless pedals have a crisp 'click' upon entry and exit, the Mallet's are a little less distinct, especially when clipping out. They also have six degrees of float compared to Shimano's four, which may not seem like much, but it's instantly noticeable. It's a matter of personal preference, but I came to appreciate the extra float – the additional freedom of movement makes using the Mallets feel more like riding with flat pedals, allowing for more possible foot positions, which can be helpful when extra body language is required to wiggle through a tricky section of trail. The platform width felt spot on, providing plenty of real estate for placing my feet during those half clipped in / half clipped out situations. The design of the clip-in mechanism is also well suited to muddy conditions, and I never had any trouble getting in or out even when the ground was covered with a few inches of greasy slime.
There's no way to adjust the release tension of the Mallets, but their design means it's virtually impossible to release upwards, and I never experienced any unwanted releases during my time on them. The actual angle at which the cleats disengage can be adjusted between 15° or 20° depending on how the brass cleats are oriented, and after trying both options, 15° ended up being my preferred setting. In the 20° setting it felt like it took too much motion to escape, and tipping over while still clipped in is pretty high up on my list of things I'd rather avoid.
Durability I've been aboard the Mallet E pedals for nearly five months now, and during that time they've been through rain, snow, mud, dust, and pretty much every other possible trail condition. The aluminum bodies have their fair share of scrapes and scratches from being bashed into rocks and roots, but that comes with the territory, and somehow all of the pins have survived. There is a very slight amount of vertical play, but it's not noticeable on the bike, and both pedals are still spinning very smoothly, although when I pulled them apart I did find that one spindle had developed a fair bit of corrosion. The other spindle was corrosion free, but I'd recommend that riders in wet climates check and re-grease the internals more often than I did. It's a quick procedure, and can be performed with the pedals still on the bike.
When asked about this issue, Jason Schiers, Crankbrothers' head of research and development, said, "In the creation of these new pedals we took into account varying conditions, from the wet and mud to pressure washing. The result of these different demands was the proprietary self lubricating Igus ll-glide bearing. It proved to continue to work regardless of any environmental changes that were introduced. The new double seal greatly reduces environmental contamination, but we designed the new bearing system to work flawlessly even without it."
Pinkbike's Take  | The Mallet E pedals have earned their keep over the last few months, and considering how many hours of inclement weather they've been exposed to they fared reasonably well. Of course, that axle corrosion isn't ideal, and I'd say Shimano still has the edge as far as withstanding the elements, but otherwise the Mallets are a worthy alternative for riders looking for a pedal with more float, a nice wide platform, and a mud-shedding clip-in mechanism. - Mike Kazimer |
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153 Comments
Have essentially a 100% failure rate of crank bro's bearings on mallets. Every pair I've sold have had bearing difficulties. I am riding a pair of of those super shitty urban a530 pedals that I took of my commuter after 3 years of daily summer and winter comuting and then for the last two years they've been on my mountain bike as I lost my xt's somewhere. Bodies are destroyed. I've peened them for more traction, tried to saw some grooves in them. Have smashed more curbs and rocks most of the paint is gone. Bearing spins new and has no play. How these guys can charge so much money for such a terrible product is ridiculous.
The funny thing is that the M540s on my other bike were perfect. Ran them nearly at its loosest option and never unclipped while pulling vertically. I rode the same shoes on both bikes.
Thereby my personal experience is to invest that €10-20 extra for the M540s and dont risk ruining your knees like I did on the POS M520s.
sounds like a problem with either your 520 pedals or cleats?
the pedal tension has no effect on float, the float is derived from the shape of the cleat relative to the shape of the pedal mechanism.
increasing pedal tension just increases the force needed to enter or exit the pedal, your cleat still rotates inside the pedal mechanism with the same rotation until it hits the stop and will then push against the release spring tension
poor setup is to blame for your painful knee experience; I work as a professional bike fitter and can vouch for poor cleat setup causing a chain reaction of problems for a rider.
1000's of riders have used SPD-520 without issue. I have just retired a 5 year old set because the bearings had gone rough...
The reason why I blame the pedals is because my other bike had a set of M540s, and I could run those nearly at its loosest tension without ever clipping out by pulling upwards. With the same shoes and the same cleats.
If I would ever ride SPDs I would ride Crank Brothers for sure. Why? Because they have more float, which is good. As well for their design: if you pull your foot up, the pedals will only grip to your clear with even more force because of this clever design. Thereby I think you should be able to run them loosely, as well as I think tensioning the pedal should not have any effect on the float on CB, where sadly it does on Shimano.
I feel like Shimano comes closer to ski binders design wise. Which is not a good thing for cycling, even though they made it work on their higher end spd pedals.
I just really recommend not to buy their M520s. Their higher end pedals are good though.
Al though theoretically Crank Brothers have a better design in my opinion (never tried them yet so no personal experience on these)
Is that 5 years warranty good for spindle corrosion?
(by the way, MEC are selling the DH and E mallet for 165$ cad if someone want those... Would never pay 165$ US for it. That's about 215$cad +tx!!
@shredthenoob: thanks for the advise
my first gen mallets are still going strong and they are 10+ years old and 3 rebuilds in.
Choices are good. Pinners are wiiners
E-bikes are for the lazy people who can't get it on their own.
But they prefer simple nylstop nut which comes loose quite fast under load...
PS. You can adjust them to release even sooner if you want by mounting the cleats on an angle in the shoe. I felt like I had to swing my heels a bit too wide to release but after adjusting the way I mounted the cleats it feels much more natural now.
Our product blows so we discontinued it, so out of the goodness of our hearts we'll give you whatever pedals you want...but in case that one sucks you can buy a rebuild kit.
M520s are legend. M530s are even better and I have absolutly zero desire to upgrade to XTs. On top of which they are currently £17 and £20 respectivly at Chain Reaction!
My dad still runs my original 520s on his road bike.
All pedals fail. At lease CB supports them. Shimano your shit out of luck.
I would need the smaller platform size and weight of the E but maybe with the 57mm axle if washers not too good. But $$$
Contrary to a lot of other people, I do like the brass cleats. Beats having to dry-lube Shimano cleats/pedals to keep them quiet, even if the brass ones do wear out faster.
3 years ago did a trip to Les Arcs. 1 of the tour guides used to work for the crank brothers distributor in the UK, so he could get their pedals exceptionally cheap. he was riding shimano 636 pedals.
Thanks!!
Of course they're Enduro bearings...
That would be helpful info.
Step 2 - buy Shimano PD-M647s. Live happily ever after.
The ring of rust/corrosion usually ends up with a axel break. not worth the crash. Shimano Xt trail Or XTR trail forever!!!