DMR Sled - Review

Dec 11, 2017
by David Arthur  


DMR might be best associated with flat pedals and steel dirt jump frames, but the company has been broadening their repertoire in recent years, first with the reborn Trailstar I tested last year, and now with the Sled, the company’s first 160mm aluminium full suspension bike that it introduced in early 2017 - we had a first look at it here and looked at the development process with DMR’s marketing guy, Olly Wilkins.

Potential customers will be able to purchase the frame with a Monarch RT3 Debonair shock and a choice of RockShok Pike or Lyrik forks for £1,600, or opt for a complete bike costing £3,500 with SRAM GX Eagle (the test bike had 11-speed GX) and lots of the company’s own parts, including Zone wheels, Wingbar handlebar and Defy 35mm stem plus WTB Convict and Trailboss tyres.



DMR Sled
• Intended use: trail / all-mountain
• Rear wheel travel: 160mm
• Fork travel: 170mm
• Wheel size: 27.5’'
• 65.5º head angle
• Aluminium frame with Orbit Link suspension
• Boost spacing front and rear
• Sizes: S, M, L, XL
• Weight: 33.04lb (size L)
• MSRP: £1,600 frame only, £3,500 complete bike
• Contact: DMR Bikes

DMR Sled
DMR Sled
The Sled is a good looking bike with lots of attention to design.

Frame Details

DMR are well known for their steel hardtails, but the new Sled is made from aluminum and it rolls on 27.5” wheels. A custom 6061 aluminum tubeset is used for the main frame and swingarm, but the star of the show is the company’s own Orbit Link suspension - more on that in a bit - providing 160mm of rear wheel travel.

It’s not, of course, the company’s first full susser; that honour is reserved for the Bolt, a steel dirt jump bike from a few years ago. The Sled is a very different beast, though, and clearly taps into the trail and enduro bike market. Ensuring the frame delivers maximum stiffness, the front and rear triangles are integrally welded, there’s a Syntace 148x12mm bolt-thru rear axle, chunky suspension linkages and collet-style pivot hardware. The Sled is designed around a single ring, and there’s a Praxis chain guide fitted as standard.

Showing the company’s British roots, durability and reliability have been key design concerns. There’s an externally threaded bottom bracket, and the cables are also internally routed to keep crap out and all the pivots use sealed cartridge bearings. There’s clearance for up to 2.4” tires, but unfortunately, there isn’t space in the front triangle for a bottle cage, though there are mounts on the bottom of the downtube. Claimed frame weight for a large is 3.85kg (8.8lb).

The Infrared paint finish is a real delight, but a more muted black is also available. Considering this is the company’s first venture into this category, it’s an extremely well-polished bike and the quality is high.

DMR Sled

Suspension Details

The Sled uses the company’s own Orbit Link. It’s a multi-link virtual pivot design with the lower linkage pivoting around the bottom bracket. The linkage arrangement was penned by David Earle, an engineer who has previous experience with Specialized and Santa Cruz, which should help settle any nerves about the validity of the design.


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There’s a definite similarity to the later, but key differences, with a concentric main pivot around the bottom bracket, which is similar to what the DMR Bolt had. On the Bolt that meant it could be run single speed, but on the Sled it’s to enable anti-squat characteristics with a rearwards axle path in the first part of the suspension travel.

A two-piece rocker uses oversized collet axles for extra stiffness and drives a custom tuned RockShox Monarch RT3 Debonair shock. Up front is a 170mm RockShox Lyrik with the RCT3 Charger, but there’s also a Pike option as well, depending on what sort of riding you have planned for the bike.


Geometry

The Sled was two years in development and a glance at the geometry chart shows modern, but not radical numbers. There are four sizes to choose from; the size large pictured here has a 65.5-degree head angle, 462mm reach, 430mm chainstays, 1,209mm wheelbase and 74-degree seat angle.

DMR has definitely been conservative to a degree with the numbers and not as extreme as we’re seeing from the likes of Pole, Whyte or Mondraker. But the numbers hit a good sweet spot and are in the right ballpark for anyone shopping for a trail/enduro bike.
DMR Sled


Specifications
Specifications
Price $3500
Travel 160
Rear Shock RockShox Monarch RT23
Fork RockShox Lyrik RCT3 170mm
Cassette GX Eagle 10-50
Crankarms SRAM GX Eagle
Rear Derailleur SRAM GX Eagle
Shifter Pods SRAM GX Eagle
Handlebar DMR Wingbar 35
Stem DMR Defy
Grips DMR Deathgrip
Brakes SRAM Guide
Wheelset Zone 275
Tires WTB Convict 2.5 F / Trail Boss 2.4 R
Seat DMR Stage
Seatpost X-Fusion Manic 125mm

DMR Sled

DMR Sled







Climbing

Over the course of the last few months I've been able to spend some quality time with the bike, putting it through its paces to see how it stacks up and if it hits all the right buttons in a rapidly evolving sector of the bike market.

And first impressions pedalling away from the car park is that the Sled is a really good pedalling bike. The suspension remains very well composed, and there's virtually no pedal bob. As such there were few occasions when I felt I had to flick the shocks compression lever to firm it up, it’s that well behaved. While it’s no featherweight, the efficiency of the suspension is such that progress is as pain-free as can be expected, and it does go some way to hiding that weight on longer grinds.

This is true on the climbs too, where the steep seat angle helps to provide a good position and composure for scaling steep climbs. On long shallow gradient climbs where the weight is less of an issue, it’s a pleasantly comfortable bike for spinning your way to the summit. On more twisting singletrack the Sled is nimble and easy to move around thanks to the short chainstays, and the high bottom bracket provides good ground clearance when tackling rutted and rooty climbs. There’s copious traction from the suspension for scrambling up technical climbs and it’s easy to pop the front wheel over obstacles.

The SRAM GX gearing with a 32t chainring was adequate most of the time, but future stock bikes will come with an Eagle 10-50t cassette that will certainly be appreciated on the steeper climbs. I have to mention the DMR branded saddle, it’s a very comfortable thing to sit on for extended rides and contributed to the Sled being a good choice for day-long rides. It’s not a cross-country bike, but the suspension and geometry ensure the Sled can't only be used when there's a shuttle to take you to the top of the hill.


DMR Sled


Descending

The Sled is a bike you can feel immediately at home on. The high-quality Deathgrips and 800mm wide Wingbar put you in a really commanding position for attacking the trail. The geometry might not be the most progressive on the market, but it hits a good sweet spot and the 65.5-degree head angle and 170mm Lyrik fork combine to offer great poise for nailing trails when gravity is on your side. My first impression on the descents was just how much fun it was to pin down my favorite trails.

It’s a bike that lets you really nail fast and swooping trails, and the stiffness of the bike is apparent when chucking it from corner to corner. It feels taut and direct with no sense of flex anywhere in the frame. The bottom bracket is on the high side, and it could be a bit lower when riding steep and twisting terrain. Some sort of adjustable geometry or a choice between high and low would be nice to see. The build kit on this bike was as solid and dependable as the frame they were bolted to, and with the exception of the too-short dropper post, there's nothing that needs changing before you go charging.

The rear suspension is impressive on small to medium impacts. There’s a nice sensitivity to the way the rear wheel reacts to the trail, it tracks smoothly over the ground. It’s progressive as you move through the travel, providing good mid-stroke support and it sits nicely in its suspension without wallowing.That progressiveness sees it handling big impacts well, but rapidly repeated big impacts at high speeds highlight a tendency for the rear suspension to occasionally become choked and stifled, with feedback noticeable through the pedals at times.

Overall handling is good; stay low and centred over the bike and you can point the front tire where you want it with accuracy. It’s agile at low speeds and stable at a more frantic pace. The Sled provides good momentum and picks up speed really well too. While it might not be the lightest or flashiest bike, it is stiff and bulletproof and is fun to ride.

DMR Sled
DMR Sled
DMR branded components deliver good performance and offered no cause for complaint

Component Check

• RockShox Lyrik RCT3 fork: Offering a choice of either a 160mm Pike or a 170mm Lyrik is a smart move on the new Sled, but the Lyrik really suits the frame well. The RCT3 Charger damper offers superb damping and really gives the Sled provides superb capacity for being charged hard into rocks and roots, and the stiffness of the fork is well tuned to the flex-free frame.

• X-Fusion Manic 125 dropper post: It’s a shame DMR has specced such a short dropper post on the new Sled. I’d prefer more than 125mm of saddle height adjustment to make more use of the low slung top tube for leaning the bike over in corners and getting down steep chutes without being slapped in the arse by the saddle.

• DMR Wingbar 35 handlebar and Defy stem: I have no problem with a bike brand fitting their own components when they’re as good as this combo. The bar is a generous 800mm wide and the 8° of backsweep and 5° of upsweep makes it very comfortable.

• DMR Stage saddle: A comfortable saddle is important on any bike and I was hugely impressed with the Stage. The flat nose is comfortable on extended climbs, the padding is generous enough to look after you on longer jaunts, and it’s durable as well.

Pinkbike's Take

bigquotes All things considered, the Sled is a lot of fun to ride. It has a burly characteristic that lives up to its looks, and the geometry is well balanced for ensuring a lively and engaging ride. For the most part, the suspension impresses; there’s no detectable flex from the frame and it has the burliness and durability that will appeal to many people. When you factor in the competitive price, it’s an appealing option in a market saturated with choice. David Arthur







About the Reviewer David Arthur is a freelance mountain biker writer based in the UK.
Stats: Age: 36 • Height: 5'11" • Weight: 155lb • Industry affiliations / sponsors: None




125 Comments

  • + 73
 Interal routing to keep the crap out? Out of what? Not out of the frame! Though it looks neater, I'll never understand the interest of internal routing, except maybe when putting the bike on the rack behind my car.
  • + 20
 Yea its a bloody pain. External so the way forwars
  • + 18
 my buddys internal routing on his bike makes a nice ting,ting sound the whole ride.Shit would drive me nuts!
  • + 44
 Are we finally turning the corner and internal routing is going the way of press fit BBS? Please lord let it be so.
  • + 36
 Internal routing is great for making simpler jobs like cable replacement take twice as long
  • + 12
 Exactly! Internal routing was/is another dumb "innovation" from the bike industry that no one ever ask for.
  • + 19
 I have external routing cables on my bike and in the recent reviews there were a lot of comments on how ugly the cables looked, it's a shame most prefer form over function. I have no doubt if the Sled had external cables people would bitch about it.
  • + 9
 So true, external cables, zip ties all over the place and custom routing ftw.
  • + 19
 Internal cables is just a gimmick which most often does more harm than good. Most implementations also still utilise exposed loops that don’t follow the lines of the frame, which goes against what I’m told is a benefit of the damned internal cables. If you really wanna streamline the look of the bike you can do so with external cables and just keep them close to the frame, cleaner looks and nothing to get snagged in bails etc. Plus you obviously don’t have to route cables through the sodding frame. Transitions previous gen internal cable routing is so awful it makes me want to punch myself in the dick. Now they’ve made the brake lines external but left the gear cable internal as if they don’t want to admit that internal cables is just a shitty gimmick. But they’re not the only ones.
  • + 5
 Its nice to not have the cables sawing their way through your headtube area with properly routed internal cables, but in this case it looks like they'll still rub? I was ready to hate my internal cables, but a year or more on, I've no real beef.
  • + 3
 @ThomDawson: Every bend is your enemy in the case of cables, and I run BB7s, so I know what I'm talking about. What I've done isn't pretty, but strike me down if it doesn't work beautifully. Couldn't get the job done with internal routing and there would be a lot of self dick punching involved.
  • + 2
 Internal routing, because vanity.
  • + 3
 Another +1 to this. Trying, without success, to remember any time in my 40 years of biking when internal routing would have prevented any sort of.... anything...
  • + 4
 Here's an idea for companies: just offer both internal and external routing capability. Like how lots of bikes used to come with both disc and v-brake bosses. Give options and we are all happy!
  • + 3
 I'm a fan of internal routing if it's done right. Fox example, working on Transitions with the TITS system is amazing. Maybe even better than external.
  • + 3
 I have external routing on my Enduro and I always have issues where the cables run below the BB, when the brake and the shifter cables run to the rear triangle they always have issues with either buzzing the tire, hitting other shit, etc. I use zip ties to fix the shit but it would be nice to not worry about it
  • + 6
 @davemays: exactly, you could just put external mounts on the little plastic covers for all the people sensible enough to run cables externally. Although, it would still be better to just ignore the fashion dickwipes completely and simply put the old welded tabs back on.

And any bike designer putting hydraulic lines internally should never ever be allowed to even touch a bike ever again, along with the guys who infected us with the boost plague.

Having said that, DMR is awesome, one of the real OGs out there
  • + 1
 @nug12182: sounds like a high end bike he's got there... Lol
  • + 2
 Exactly! And when you dont use all of the possible holes, you have to somehow plug them. Its a great idea for road bikes, which hardly see the wet, and very rarely need cable replacement. External housing usually always runs full now on MTB anyhow, so its not like its to keep shifting good.
  • + 3
 I think internal routing just looks cleaner, and I don't see why people hate it so much. Sure, it was a pain on 90s road bikes with no guides, but modern mountain bikes either have a guide or wide ports that make routing simple. I'll take the extra minute of cable routing during the 1x a year I change housing or swap brakes over external with zip ties that frequently break and are always sharp, no matter how well you trim them.
  • + 1
 @dthomp325: you actually only have to turn your zip ties far enough in the right direction, et voilà. Much, much less difficult than making a brake swap in 5 minutes with internal routing. Believe me.
  • + 1
 @MCMbiker: if you're prepared to have a slightly shonky looking bike, you can literally do everything with zipties. Don't even need welded-on mounts. Put your lines where you want them and strap 'em onto the frame. You can even have them floating in places so that they move with the suspension. Just me?
  • + 9
 I think the only people who like internal lines are the ones who don't ever work on bikes themselves.
  • + 1
 @2bigwheels: Transition Smuggler
  • + 1
 Or you could just buy a Santa Cruz...
  • - 2
 @EnduroManiac: I've done lots of brake swaps, they are just as simple on internally routed frames, unless maybe you're one of those knobs that mounts a brake straight from Jenson and rides around with uncut hose 2 feet too long just so you don't have to spend 10 minutes bleeding it.
  • + 5
 @dthomp325: They are obviously not as simple as you confessed you need to bleed them again. And for a last moment swap, I prefer too long hoses than no brakes at all.
Send back your brakes for servicing, receive them in perfect conditions and first thing you do: cut the hose, possibly get the DOT inside your frame (beautiful). Absurdity.
I don't know any bike mechanic that find internal routing a good idea.
  • + 2
 I like dropper posts to be internal. My 2009 Ibis has a dropper and I hate that the cable is outside. Other than that, exterior cables are fine with me!
  • - 1
 @Johnny-W: They don't have the money to buy it, that's why they are bitching.
  • + 2
 I'm so tired of hearing complaints about good products that people don't like simply because they are different or not quite as easy to work on. It's so much cleaner. If you learn how to install it correctly, it's not very difficult. The only argument other than "Well I'm not very good at installing it, so it's a pain in the ass", is if you're a privateer racer and time is always of importance and you have to strip your bike under your 8x8 ez-up awning. The list of benefits, other than just looks, is quite long and I'm sure you're all aware of them, so I'll skip over that.

I will tell you, it's definitely one less pain for home mechanics. Unfortunately, every pinkbiker seems to think anything they can't handle means that the product is too complicated or something they will "never understand". A pro mechanic can change internal cables in a few minutes longer than external routing, sometimes even faster because there aren't 8 zipties to cut and replace. So, realize that there are benefits to internal cable routing, and you just don't have the practice to make it not a pain, like many other things on these awesome, modern bicycles we ride. Crack yourself a beer or four and take an hour to figure it out. Or, if you don't have time, suck it up and take it to your best local wrench. He will do a better job than you anyway.
  • + 1
 @MCMbiker: bam, exactly
  • + 2
 @trialsracer: you skip the list of benefits cause it's outrageously limited and you'd just look ridiculous I guess. I can only find 2:
*less prone to be damaged by a projection. Although having your cables going out below BB (as seen on some bikes) simply shows this was not the intended purpose. And routing on top of downtube you're pretty much safe with projections.
* no squeezing them when attaching your bike on a rack for transportation.
Other than that? None. It's a bit like press fit BB, it's meant to simplify the production process (understand: save money), whereas frame prices keep rising. Go understand. The irony is that some brands realized it's a pain in the ass/stupidy and come with complex tubing systems (à la SC), which certainly won't lower the costs. At least, less a pain in the ass, and mostly in the case of SC, they understood it's ridiculous for brakes.

About brakes, do you really have brakes with cables or did you actually not read/understand my post?
  • + 1
 If they ran external cables, would a bottle fit inside the front triangle?

Which is more enduro? Internal cables or bottle cage???
  • + 1
 @corona: my trek is full length cable. The internal routing is purely a a look thing. Well for the most part. I will say atleast they designed it so the cables never rub your headtube when you turn. So that's nice.

Also if you got an extra port on your bike. Fill it with wax. I warmed wax and slid it over the extra port on my Kona and it slowly filled it.

When I needed it out I used a heat gun.
  • + 46
 Mountain biking - it's a cheap sport once you've bought your bike........ until you discover n+1
  • + 30
 Looking good DMR tup
  • + 16
 Interesting that the bikes "high bottom bracket" is noted as a good thing for technical climbing, Amen. Every review I've read in the past three or so years has banged on about how the low BB enables the bike to carve turns and feel planted over the rough stuff, yeah well that's great but on my Cube stereo you have to learn to time your pedaling to suit the terrain when climbing root/rocks and on twisty stuff that flows watch out don't try and pedal because the bastard digs in and throws you off.
  • + 4
 I hear ya. Shorter franks might be helpful and they make surprisingly little difference in pedal power. No personal experience tho, other than digging my pedals into the ground just like you
  • + 1
 As an enduro racer, I've seen (and experienced) a lot of lost time and even some pretty bad injuries due to rock strikes. I'm starting to think higher BBs may be overall better, at least for enduro racing. Maybe you'll be a second slower on a clean stage run due to a higher center of gravity, but that's better than loosing 30 seconds with a crash and risking injury due to rock strike. There's no question at all that higher BBs are better for climbing, it's nice to be able to spin up stuff without having to carefully time and ratchet your pedal strokes.
  • + 20
 @BryceBorlick: nobody wants a shorter frank.
  • + 2
 @dontcoast: Frank Drebbin, Frank Butcher, Fat Frank Lampard????
  • + 1
 @dontcoast: lol, I second that. Wienershnitzel
  • + 2
 I want to know when 10mm bb drop became high.
  • + 18
 Wish this was todays advent calendar bike instead of that hardtail thingy they are giving away.
  • + 18
 Looks like a sess.. Santa cruz?
  • - 6
flag Kamba6 (Dec 11, 2017 at 0:21) (Below Threshold)
 More like an Intense
  • + 5
 @Kamba6: Nomad 2 all the way
  • + 12
 Looks like a lot of bikes
  • + 1
 @Krzymndyd: looks like a banshee
  • + 6
 It's similar to my 2013 Santa Cruz Bronson.
  • + 5
 @upchuckyeager: not particularly. Way different linkage.
  • + 3
 the new intense DH proto 29er has the bottom link rotating around the BB as well
  • + 15
 Maybe it’s just me, but I’m baffled by bikes with this long of a travel that aren’t spec’d with piggyback shocks. Otherwise, looks cool.
  • + 1
 I could see them doing this because maybe they think people will want to just put on a different shock?
  • + 2
 Is there much difference you reckon? I've switched between regular and piggyback monarchs for a few years (albeit different frames) and I've never really felt a difference, I've never experienced any degradation on either, even on some brutal alpine descents. I'm not all that slim or slow either.
  • + 8
 I really like how the bike looks, but I think the grey frame decals makes i look cheap, which a shame, because the bike looks awesome otherwise.
  • + 6
 Completely agree! Lovely bike but the graphics need to be binned
  • + 2
 Agree. Hopefully they are removable
  • + 2
 That decal looks like something out of WordArt
  • + 1
 @Caiokv: Haha yes it actually does look like that Smile
  • + 4
 if they hadn't routed the cables internally there would be amble room for a bottle cage at the bottom of the front triangle (a la spesh enduro). really never understood internal cable routing on mountain bikes.
  • + 4
 Could'nt work out what was going on in the suspension vid.Then I realised that the chainguide is attached to the lower link.And it moves a LOT under full compression. Must work ok but looks odd seeing move!
  • + 2
 I guess all that matters is if they have "perfected" the performance of the virtual pivot design for going up hill and downhill... I mean this really is just last years SC Nomad and according to everyone I have talked to who had or has one. The Nomad climbed like a champ and descended like a champ... Best climbing bike they have had and most certainly the best descending bike as well.
  • + 3
 "Internal routing to keep the crap out" Huh? Out of what exactly?
"Externally threaded BB" Whats one of them then?
"Front and rear triangles are integrally welded" What does that even mean?

Wanna try again PB?
  • + 2
 Some small things to edit in the article to make this post seem out of place:

In the article it says 1600GBP includes the forks and shock, so in the spec column on the right you may want to change the price that currently says 1600GBP frame only.

Near the bottom under the picture it says "DMR branded components". I read "branded" as "designed and produced by another company with the DMR brand name stamped on it". Kind of what Wellgo does for pedals. I think these are genuine DMR designed products, aren't these?

A question about the DMR Defy stem. Does anyone have some long term experience with it? I'm considering one so that I can fit my current forks in my next frame (a BTR with a huge 150mm headtube) because of the low 27mm stack. But I'm curious as most other companies work with 35mm or 40mm stack (or even more), whether such a low stem could damage my aluminium steerer.
  • + 1
 I pal of mine used a defy with his BTR Ranger MKI, worled a treat, he only ditched it when he got a new frame.
  • + 3
 DMR Defy Stem, on my bike for a year, also bought for its low stack height. Solid, light, low clamping torque required, good looking and showing no wear after a year of use (no rust on bolts, oxidation etc.) definitely worth it.

I ride my bike reasonably hard and the fork is a 2013 model on the outside so if it was gonna be damaged it would be a prime candidate.
  • + 1
 @PhotoCal: @matwilliams Thanks, good to hear! My main concern would be whether it would damage the steerer tube of my forks. Of course as long as it keeps up reasonably well it is worth a try. If the Defy doesn't work, I can't use these forks (or at least the crown-steerer assembly) anymore anyway.
  • + 1
 I have the newest Defy35 on my bike, purchased specifically because of the low stack height, rise, and 35mm reach. Only two rides on it but I dig it. I was also worried about steerer stress so I run it with 1mm of steerer above the stem and a small spacer between the stem and the cap. I personally wouldn't run this stem with the steerer below the top of the stem.
  • + 2
 I've been running the 50mm version of the Defy stem and it's the worst part on my bike because of the steerer clamp design. It makes horrific noises and you can feel the play in the handlebars. This 35mm version shouldn't have that problem as they went with a traditional clamp.
  • + 1
 @casman86: Thanks. Yeah I'm after the 35mm long one for the smaller/regular diameter handlebar (31.6mm it is?) so that'd be good.
  • + 1
 @pnwpedal: This is a good point, I am also running a 2.5mm spacer above the stem.
  • + 1
 The downtube has an "S" bend in it like many bikes. The bend near the headtube generally allows for fork crown clearance. The bend at the bottom bracket generally allows for shock, particularly piggyback, clearance in the case of vertically mounted shocks or water bottle clearance. This bike has a top tube mounted shock and no water bottle inside the triangle.

So, if you're going to put in a bend near the BB, why not leave enough room and have a bottle mount? Or if you're not going to mount a bottle, why put in the bend? Serious question. Is there another design consideration I'm missing or is it just for style?
  • + 1
 I have a cause for complaint on their components. My DMR Defy 50mm stem creaks and ticks like hell. Makes my whole bike feel terrible. The 50mm has a wedge steerer clamp design that just doesn't work, the new shorter version shown here has a traditional clamp but they tested out the first design on the customers.
  • + 1
 They have used this design for years, the old DMR headstock stem had the same collet design. They don't strike me as the kind of company that would use their customers as test pilots. Have you tried a thin layer of light grease in the channel that the collet slides through? its always solved any creaks for me on a collet style stem.
  • + 1
 @Mk3Brick: I have tried carefully greasing all parts that don't come in direct contact with the steerer. No luck. I've read comments by others with the same issue. I'll never buy another stem with that design. The noises and feel drive me insane.
  • + 2
 "an appealing option in a market saturated with choice"........I wish the medium also had a 15" seat tube length. 15" is optimal MTB goldilocks porridge in my opinion. Would probably buy a small if I could, nice bike!
  • + 1
 It's good to see, and I hope that the trend continues towards the return of what we actually need. A bicycle made with good design and realistic materials in a very acceptable weight class. Now just bring the prices down to an acceptable level based upon materials and labor, and we can have more people pedaling around on real bicycles.
  • + 2
 I wonder how long till those 2 part links start to move or the bolts loosen off...
Bottom one makes sense, but why not the make the top one from a single piece??
  • + 1
 Not much talk about the tire spec except from enduro-mtb, "Grip from the WTB Convict / Trail Boss pairing was never in doubt."
Would have like to hear more on this from David Arthur
  • + 1
 Looks like quite a nice frame, will be interesting to see if they do any update to make it a really nice frame in the future
I could tell you what it needs to improve it but, you should already know that?
  • + 1
 Looks good apart from the cable rooting and lack of bottle cage. Could do with being a touch lighter as well if it's a trail bike. Looks more full on Enduro to me as it stands.
  • + 3
 Cool to see a good riding bike with this spec at this price. High five dmr!
  • + 1
 The DMR nomad is a great looking bike!

Who cares about bottle cages? They ruin the look of any bike, you wouldn't buy a high performance sports car and add an external hydration tank would you?
  • + 8
 Bottle cages are the business, my bike has two, and thanks to that, I ride without a backpack on nearly all of my rides
  • + 2
 Finally, someone that speaks the truth. Stop adding water bottle and taping all your gear and BS to the frame to look pro. You're not a pro EWS racer so take your backpack, or even a fanny pack.
  • + 12
 Strangely enough, a lot of high performance car reviews have an odd amount of criticism aimed at the cup holders.
  • + 0
 @Whipperman: back backs yes, hmmm fanny packs are a little too “enduro” for me ????
  • - 1
 @mnorris122: I’m not arguing that there is not practical use in bottle cages just that they ruin the look of a bike. When I look at a bike with a bottle cage it just ruins the lines for me
  • + 1
 @Garpur44: Well the reality is, many people care about bottle cages, if I'm taking my $10,000 dentist bike into the studio for professional photos, sure, I'll take off the cages and accessories, but until then I'll keep them, thanks very much.
  • + 4
 @Garpur44: I buy my bike to ride it, you buy to look at it. Different needs.
  • + 1
 @kittenjuice: I think a cursory glance at my profile would show you that I spend plenty of time riding my bikes. Seeing as I spend so much time riding I appreciate a bike that looks good
  • + 1
 @mnorris122: so you keep your tube pump and tools in your water bottle?
  • + 1
 @Sshredder: No, those used to go in my jersey pockets until I got a top tube bag. Buddy up in the comments who can't stand how bottles look Rolleyes would HATE a top tube bag, but it's a neat way to strap all your stuff to your frame.
  • + 2
 @Garpur44: You're sending us to go look at your profile? I can see why you're worried about water bottle aesthetics....
  • + 3
 @Garpur44: Brits using the term "fanny pack", what in the name of F is the world coming to?
  • + 1
 @BenPea: What's the british for fanny pack ?
  • + 1
 @Whipperman: "Bum bag"... Not super palatable to North American ears I admit. Maybe we should go for "banane" like the French. Everyone loves a banana.
  • + 1
 @BenPea: lol, used that eupahmisim for all of my dehydrated transatlantic cousins.

But to be fair if my only choice was a bum bag or a bottle cage I’d still rather suck the dew off leaves than ruin the lines of my bike
  • + 1
 @Garpur44: but think how it makes your fanny look!
  • + 2
 Suitably named for the current English weather! Sleds more use than a bike right now.
  • + 3
 Yup looks like a bike!
  • + 0
 Have they sorted out the weird suspension curve?
There's review kind of relates to it without saying so directly, but getting the last 20mm of travel is basically impossible
  • + 1
 Genuinely interesting, I have never struggled to bottom it out in 'oh balls' situations, but I love a progressive shock/link drive.
  • + 1
 ahh dude this bike looks to me like a king ass ripper boi
  • + 1
 Looks like a Rocket 88....
  • + 1
 Low tire pressure... Doh! I love killing rims too. Smile
  • + 1
 Internal for dropper post only!!!
  • + 1
 If the sect was Alu I think it would do well
  • + 1
 Why do all vpp bikes look and feel so much shorter travel then they are
  • + 1
 Santa Cruz Nomad 3 Aluminum
  • + 1
 hope they will rebuild they BOLT frames
  • + 0
 A heavy Santa Cruz minus the cred
  • - 1
 Rear wheel looks f'd already, Mr. Arthur
  • - 3
 Sweet catalog bike, yo.
  • - 3
 It similar to the NINER link, isn't it?
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