DMR might be best associated with flat pedals and steel dirt jump frames, but the company has been broadening their repertoire in recent years, first with the reborn
Trailstar I tested last year, and now with the Sled, the company’s first 160mm aluminium full suspension bike that it introduced in early 2017 - we had a
first look at it here and looked at the
development process with DMR’s marketing guy, Olly Wilkins.
Potential customers will be able to purchase the frame with a Monarch RT3 Debonair shock and a choice of RockShok Pike or Lyrik forks for £1,600, or opt for a complete bike costing £3,500 with SRAM GX Eagle (the test bike had 11-speed GX) and lots of the company’s own parts, including Zone wheels, Wingbar handlebar and Defy 35mm stem plus WTB Convict and Trailboss tyres.
DMR Sled • Intended use: trail / all-mountain
• Rear wheel travel: 160mm
• Fork travel: 170mm
• Wheel size: 27.5’'
• 65.5º head angle
• Aluminium frame with Orbit Link suspension
• Boost spacing front and rear
• Sizes: S, M, L, XL
• Weight: 33.04lb (size L)
• MSRP: £1,600 frame only, £3,500 complete bike
• Contact:
DMR Bikes The Sled is a good looking bike with lots of attention to design.
Frame DetailsDMR are well known for their steel hardtails, but the new Sled is made from aluminum and it rolls on 27.5” wheels. A custom 6061 aluminum tubeset is used for the main frame and swingarm, but the star of the show is the company’s own Orbit Link suspension - more on that in a bit - providing 160mm of rear wheel travel.
It’s not, of course, the company’s first full susser; that honour is reserved for the Bolt, a steel dirt jump bike from a few years ago. The Sled is a very different beast, though, and clearly taps into the trail and enduro bike market. Ensuring the frame delivers maximum stiffness, the front and rear triangles are integrally welded, there’s a Syntace 148x12mm bolt-thru rear axle, chunky suspension linkages and collet-style pivot hardware. The Sled is designed around a single ring, and there’s a Praxis chain guide fitted as standard.
Showing the company’s British roots, durability and reliability have been key design concerns. There’s an externally threaded bottom bracket, and the cables are also internally routed to keep crap out and all the pivots use sealed cartridge bearings. There’s clearance for up to 2.4” tires, but unfortunately, there isn’t space in the front triangle for a bottle cage, though there are mounts on the bottom of the downtube. Claimed frame weight for a large is 3.85kg (8.8lb).
The Infrared paint finish is a real delight, but a more muted black is also available. Considering this is the company’s first venture into this category, it’s an extremely well-polished bike and the quality is high.
Suspension DetailsThe Sled uses the company’s own Orbit Link. It’s a multi-link virtual pivot design with the lower linkage pivoting around the bottom bracket. The linkage arrangement was penned by David Earle, an engineer who has previous experience with Specialized and Santa Cruz, which should help settle any nerves about the validity of the design.
There’s a definite similarity to the later, but key differences, with a concentric main pivot around the bottom bracket, which is similar to what the DMR Bolt had. On the Bolt that meant it could be run single speed, but on the Sled it’s to enable anti-squat characteristics with a rearwards axle path in the first part of the suspension travel.
A two-piece rocker uses oversized collet axles for extra stiffness and drives a custom tuned RockShox Monarch RT3 Debonair shock. Up front is a 170mm RockShox Lyrik with the RCT3 Charger, but there’s also a Pike option as well, depending on what sort of riding you have planned for the bike.
GeometryThe Sled was two years in development and a glance at the geometry chart shows modern, but not radical numbers. There are four sizes to choose from; the size large pictured here has a 65.5-degree head angle, 462mm reach, 430mm chainstays, 1,209mm wheelbase and 74-degree seat angle.
DMR has definitely been conservative to a degree with the numbers and not as extreme as we’re seeing from the likes of Pole, Whyte or Mondraker. But the numbers hit a good sweet spot and are in the right ballpark for anyone shopping for a trail/enduro bike.
Specifications
Specifications
|
Price
|
$3500 |
|
Travel |
160 |
|
Rear Shock |
RockShox Monarch RT23 |
|
Fork |
RockShox Lyrik RCT3 170mm |
|
Cassette |
GX Eagle 10-50 |
|
Crankarms |
SRAM GX Eagle |
|
Rear Derailleur |
SRAM GX Eagle |
|
Shifter Pods |
SRAM GX Eagle |
|
Handlebar |
DMR Wingbar 35 |
|
Stem |
DMR Defy |
|
Grips |
DMR Deathgrip |
|
Brakes |
SRAM Guide |
|
Wheelset |
Zone 275 |
|
Tires |
WTB Convict 2.5 F / Trail Boss 2.4 R |
|
Seat |
DMR Stage |
|
Seatpost |
X-Fusion Manic 125mm |
|
ClimbingOver the course of the last few months I've been able to spend some quality time with the bike, putting it through its paces to see how it stacks up and if it hits all the right buttons in a rapidly evolving sector of the bike market.
And first impressions pedalling away from the car park is that the Sled is a really good pedalling bike. The suspension remains very well composed, and there's virtually no pedal bob. As such there were few occasions when I felt I had to flick the shocks compression lever to firm it up, it’s that well behaved. While it’s no featherweight, the efficiency of the suspension is such that progress is as pain-free as can be expected, and it does go some way to hiding that weight on longer grinds.
This is true on the climbs too, where the steep seat angle helps to provide a good position and composure for scaling steep climbs. On long shallow gradient climbs where the weight is less of an issue, it’s a pleasantly comfortable bike for spinning your way to the summit. On more twisting singletrack the Sled is nimble and easy to move around thanks to the short chainstays, and the high bottom bracket provides good ground clearance when tackling rutted and rooty climbs. There’s copious traction from the suspension for scrambling up technical climbs and it’s easy to pop the front wheel over obstacles.
The SRAM GX gearing with a 32t chainring was adequate most of the time, but future stock bikes will come with an Eagle 10-50t cassette that will certainly be appreciated on the steeper climbs. I have to mention the DMR branded saddle, it’s a very comfortable thing to sit on for extended rides and contributed to the Sled being a good choice for day-long rides. It’s not a cross-country bike, but the suspension and geometry ensure the Sled can't only be used when there's a shuttle to take you to the top of the hill.
DescendingThe Sled is a bike you can feel immediately at home on. The high-quality Deathgrips and 800mm wide Wingbar put you in a really commanding position for attacking the trail. The geometry might not be the most progressive on the market, but it hits a good sweet spot and the 65.5-degree head angle and 170mm Lyrik fork combine to offer great poise for nailing trails when gravity is on your side. My first impression on the descents was just how much fun it was to pin down my favorite trails.
It’s a bike that lets you really nail fast and swooping trails, and the stiffness of the bike is apparent when chucking it from corner to corner. It feels taut and direct with no sense of flex anywhere in the frame. The bottom bracket is on the high side, and it could be a bit lower when riding steep and twisting terrain. Some sort of adjustable geometry or a choice between high and low would be nice to see. The build kit on this bike was as solid and dependable as the frame they were bolted to, and with the exception of the too-short dropper post, there's nothing that needs changing before you go charging.
The rear suspension is impressive on small to medium impacts. There’s a nice sensitivity to the way the rear wheel reacts to the trail, it tracks smoothly over the ground. It’s progressive as you move through the travel, providing good mid-stroke support and it sits nicely in its suspension without wallowing.That progressiveness sees it handling big impacts well, but rapidly repeated big impacts at high speeds highlight a tendency for the rear suspension to occasionally become choked and stifled, with feedback noticeable through the pedals at times.
Overall handling is good; stay low and centred over the bike and you can point the front tire where you want it with accuracy. It’s agile at low speeds and stable at a more frantic pace. The Sled provides good momentum and picks up speed really well too. While it might not be the lightest or flashiest bike, it is stiff and bulletproof and is fun to ride.
DMR branded components deliver good performance and offered no cause for complaint
Component Check• RockShox Lyrik RCT3 fork: Offering a choice of either a 160mm Pike or a 170mm Lyrik is a smart move on the new Sled, but the Lyrik really suits the frame well. The RCT3 Charger damper offers superb damping and really gives the Sled provides superb capacity for being charged hard into rocks and roots, and the stiffness of the fork is well tuned to the flex-free frame.
• X-Fusion Manic 125 dropper post: It’s a shame DMR has specced such a short dropper post on the new Sled. I’d prefer more than 125mm of saddle height adjustment to make more use of the low slung top tube for leaning the bike over in corners and getting down steep chutes without being slapped in the arse by the saddle.
• DMR Wingbar 35 handlebar and Defy stem: I have no problem with a bike brand fitting their own components when they’re as good as this combo. The bar is a generous 800mm wide and the 8° of backsweep and 5° of upsweep makes it very comfortable.
• DMR Stage saddle: A comfortable saddle is important on any bike and I was hugely impressed with the Stage. The flat nose is comfortable on extended climbs, the padding is generous enough to look after you on longer jaunts, and it’s durable as well.
Pinkbike's Take | All things considered, the Sled is a lot of fun to ride. It has a burly characteristic that lives up to its looks, and the geometry is well balanced for ensuring a lively and engaging ride. For the most part, the suspension impresses; there’s no detectable flex from the frame and it has the burliness and durability that will appeal to many people. When you factor in the competitive price, it’s an appealing option in a market saturated with choice.— David Arthur |
About the Reviewer David Arthur is a freelance mountain biker writer based in the UK. Stats: Age: 36 • Height: 5'11" • Weight: 155lb • Industry affiliations / sponsors: None
125 Comments
And any bike designer putting hydraulic lines internally should never ever be allowed to even touch a bike ever again, along with the guys who infected us with the boost plague.
Having said that, DMR is awesome, one of the real OGs out there
Send back your brakes for servicing, receive them in perfect conditions and first thing you do: cut the hose, possibly get the DOT inside your frame (beautiful). Absurdity.
I don't know any bike mechanic that find internal routing a good idea.
I will tell you, it's definitely one less pain for home mechanics. Unfortunately, every pinkbiker seems to think anything they can't handle means that the product is too complicated or something they will "never understand". A pro mechanic can change internal cables in a few minutes longer than external routing, sometimes even faster because there aren't 8 zipties to cut and replace. So, realize that there are benefits to internal cable routing, and you just don't have the practice to make it not a pain, like many other things on these awesome, modern bicycles we ride. Crack yourself a beer or four and take an hour to figure it out. Or, if you don't have time, suck it up and take it to your best local wrench. He will do a better job than you anyway.
*less prone to be damaged by a projection. Although having your cables going out below BB (as seen on some bikes) simply shows this was not the intended purpose. And routing on top of downtube you're pretty much safe with projections.
* no squeezing them when attaching your bike on a rack for transportation.
Other than that? None. It's a bit like press fit BB, it's meant to simplify the production process (understand: save money), whereas frame prices keep rising. Go understand. The irony is that some brands realized it's a pain in the ass/stupidy and come with complex tubing systems (à la SC), which certainly won't lower the costs. At least, less a pain in the ass, and mostly in the case of SC, they understood it's ridiculous for brakes.
About brakes, do you really have brakes with cables or did you actually not read/understand my post?
Which is more enduro? Internal cables or bottle cage???
Also if you got an extra port on your bike. Fill it with wax. I warmed wax and slid it over the extra port on my Kona and it slowly filled it.
When I needed it out I used a heat gun.
In the article it says 1600GBP includes the forks and shock, so in the spec column on the right you may want to change the price that currently says 1600GBP frame only.
Near the bottom under the picture it says "DMR branded components". I read "branded" as "designed and produced by another company with the DMR brand name stamped on it". Kind of what Wellgo does for pedals. I think these are genuine DMR designed products, aren't these?
A question about the DMR Defy stem. Does anyone have some long term experience with it? I'm considering one so that I can fit my current forks in my next frame (a BTR with a huge 150mm headtube) because of the low 27mm stack. But I'm curious as most other companies work with 35mm or 40mm stack (or even more), whether such a low stem could damage my aluminium steerer.
I ride my bike reasonably hard and the fork is a 2013 model on the outside so if it was gonna be damaged it would be a prime candidate.
"Externally threaded BB" Whats one of them then?
"Front and rear triangles are integrally welded" What does that even mean?
Wanna try again PB?
So, if you're going to put in a bend near the BB, why not leave enough room and have a bottle mount? Or if you're not going to mount a bottle, why put in the bend? Serious question. Is there another design consideration I'm missing or is it just for style?
Who cares about bottle cages? They ruin the look of any bike, you wouldn't buy a high performance sports car and add an external hydration tank would you?
But to be fair if my only choice was a bum bag or a bottle cage I’d still rather suck the dew off leaves than ruin the lines of my bike
I could tell you what it needs to improve it but, you should already know that?
Would have like to hear more on this from David Arthur
Bottom one makes sense, but why not the make the top one from a single piece??
There's review kind of relates to it without saying so directly, but getting the last 20mm of travel is basically impossible
Does that include DH, dirt jump and BMX bikes?