Field Test: 2021 Norco Shore - The Freeride Tank
PINKBIKE FIELD TEST
Norco Shore
Words by Mike Kazimer, photography by Tom Richards
Norco Shore
Words by Mike Kazimer, photography by Tom Richards
The Shore is back! The Shore disappeared from Norco's lineup a decade ago, but it's returned for another round of freeride glory. This new version has 27.5” wheels, an aluminum frame, and 180mm of travel. There's also a park version that has 190mm of travel with a dual crown, 200mm fork for riders that don't have any plans of pedaling uphill.
The new Shore uses a Horst Link suspension design, but Norco also went with a high main pivot placement and an idler pulley. That allowed them to have a rearward axle path with minimal kickback, while still maintaining pedaling efficiency. It's designed specifically to be used with a coil shock – you could technically fit an air shock, but Norco say that the spring and damper won't allow the suspension to react the way its designed to.
The new Shore uses a Horst Link suspension design, but Norco also went with a high main pivot placement and an idler pulley. That allowed them to have a rearward axle path with minimal kickback, while still maintaining pedaling efficiency. It's designed specifically to be used with a coil shock – you could technically fit an air shock, but Norco say that the spring and damper won't allow the suspension to react the way its designed to.
Shore Details
• Travel: 180mm rear / 180mm front
• Wheel size: 27.5
• Head angle: 63°
• Seat tube angle: 77.7°
• Reach: 480mm (lrg)
• Chainstay length: 445mm
• Sizes: S, M, L (tested), XL
• Weight: 37.4 lb / 17 kg
• Price: $5,199 USD
• norco.com
• Travel: 180mm rear / 180mm front
• Wheel size: 27.5
• Head angle: 63°
• Seat tube angle: 77.7°
• Reach: 480mm (lrg)
• Chainstay length: 445mm
• Sizes: S, M, L (tested), XL
• Weight: 37.4 lb / 17 kg
• Price: $5,199 USD
• norco.com
You're not going to find any carbon here – the frame and build kits were designed with durability in mind. There's internal cable routing through the top tube, bolts for a tube or tool on the underside of that top tube, and room for a water bottle. Other welcome details include a threaded bottom bracket, and clearance for up to a 2.6” tire. There's also plenty of room to run a longer travel dropper posts – the post on the size large I tested had 200mm of drop.
The Shore was built for the descents, and that's reflected by the slack 63-degree head angle. The size large has a 480mm reach, and 445mm chainstays. Chainstay length varies by size, going up by 5mm. Out of all the bikes in this long travel category, the Shore wins the longest wheelbase award, checking in at 1286mm. All those numbers might look like they were lifted from a DH bike, but Norco didn't forget that this was a freeride bike, and that means pedaling up to the top of the hill sometimes. To help with that, they gave it a nice and steep 77.7-degree seat tube angle.
The bike pictured here is the Shore A1, which retails for $5,199 USD. The Shore A2 goes for $3,199, and the frame kit is $2,099. That park version I mentioned earlier is $3,999.
What do you get for $5,199? Well, for suspension there's a 180mm Fox 38 Factory fork, a Factory DHX2 coil shock. The drivetrain is SRAM GX Eagle, and SRAM's Code RSC brakes handle stopping duties. Wheels are e*thirteen LG1 aluminum rims laced to DT Swiss 350 hubs, and those get a Maxxis Assegai / DHR II tire combo, in a Double Down casing. To keep things consistent, I ended up swapping those for the EXO+ control tires (Double Down tires were in short supply), but it is cool to see this bike come with extra-tough tires. Other nice bits are a Deity aluminum bar, and DMR Deathgrips.
Total weight with the control tires? 37.4 pounds. Yes, it's sort of a tank. But remember, Norco said it's designed for rides without stopwatches or finish lines in sight.
Climbing
Anyone that says weight doesn't matter should try grinding up a logging road for a couple thousand vertical feet on this thing, then talk to me at the top. No matter how you slice it, 37 pounds is on the heavy side of things. I mean, there are aluminum DH bikes out there that weigh less...
There's no getting around that number on the scale, but the good news is that the geometry and suspension design do what they can to take the sting out of climbing. There's no compression lever on the shock to firm things up for climbing, and there really isn't a need for one – even if you stand and mash the pedals there isn't a crazy amount of bob. That steep seat tube angle helps too – it's a nice and upright climbing position. That long wheelbase does help on chunky climbs, and as long as you can maintain momentum the Shore will keep clawing its way upward.
Still, at the end of the day, this is the most DH oriented bike in this group, and it shows. It takes more effort to muscle it around, and it didn't exactly inspire me to search out hard climbs. The results of the efficiency test that Mike Levy performed reflected that as well; the Shore ended up at the very back of the pack.
Descending
Hang on tight, because the Shore has a serious need for speed. It's big, slack and supportive – let gravity take over and this thing will go. It does a great job smoothing out rough terrain and big hits, but it's a different feel than I expected – I kind off thought it'd be this ultra-plush, super sensitive thing, but instead it sits a little higher in its travel. I ended up running the compression almost all the way open, and I'd be curious to possibly try an even lighter tune. Still, for this bike's purpose I think it works well.
I was also surprised how well it'll pump through rough terrain – let off the brakes, stop pedaling, and you can keep steamrolling ahead. The same goes for jumping – once you push into the travel that ramp up lets you load and then pop off the lip of a jump.
I was also surprised how well it'll pump through rough terrain – let off the brakes, stop pedaling, and you can keep steamrolling ahead. The same goes for jumping – once you push into the travel that ramp up lets you load and then pop off the lip of a jump.
Timed Testing
The enduro and freeride bikes were all tested on a section of trail that included a mix of everything you'd expect to find on a race track. There were tight corners, a few drops, some sidehill sections that get trickier the faster you go, along with some higher speed, open corners.
Don't forget that timing is just one of many ways to judge a bike, and fast doesn't always mean it's the best for everyone.
Mike Kazimer: "The Shore feels incredibly solid and stable at speed, and it be an excellent option for someone looking for sturdy bike park companion. When the clock was running, it ended up in 4th place out of the 5 contenders, with a time of 2:44."
Overall, its manners are definitely on the DH bike side of things. It feels big and fast, but there were a few times when I lost my focus and felt like I was getting dragged along. It's a bike that definitely rewards an aggressive rider.
On paper, the Propain Spindrift and the Shore have several similarities. They both have 180mm of travel, steep seat angles, and reach numbers within 5mm of each other. However, out on the trail it's a different story. The big-wheeled Spindrift is a much more maneuverable, easygoing machine, despite the fact that it has bigger wheels. The Spindrift feels closer to an over-grown all-mountain rig, where the Shore possess more DH bike-like characteristics.
As far as components go, that 180mm Fox 38 fork is a standout, and it's partially responsible for the aura of invincibility this thing exudes. I did have an issue with the idler – I was pedaling on a tight, rolling section of trail, and somehow the chain came off and went behind the pulley wheel. It only happened once, and I spent time on much rougher terrain, so hopefully it was a strange coincidence. I also managed to dent the rear rim somewhere along the line; out of all the parts on the bike I'd say the e*thirteen rims will probably need to be replaced first, especially if you live in an area with lots of rocks.
Overall, new Shore is for the modern freerider, someone who doesn't care at all about weight, and is focused on the send. Do you have a secret trail out in the woods with sketchy steep lines and big hucks? This could be the ticket. It's a purpose built freeride machine, one that’s best suited to aggressive riders, and it's not the bike to go with if you want something for big pedaling missions.
Pros
+ Super solid – there's not much that'll stop this thing
+ Geometry helps ease the sting of those climbs
+ Very well supported suspension for big hits / hucking
Cons
- Heavy
- Very gravity oriented – not for someone looking for long travel all-rounder
- Extra noise / complication from idler
The 2020 Pinkbike Field Test was made possible with support from Dainese apparel & protection, Sierra Nevada refreshments, and Smith eyewear and helmets. Thanks also to Maxxis, Garmin, Freelap, and Toyota Pacific.
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this thing looks awesome, but IMO norco missed by making it a 73mm bb and 148mm rear end. 83/150 would have been great so that people with DH bikes could swap their parts over
I will say it is a good looking bike though. I've always liked Norco.
I live in the French Alps and have a lot of very steep climbs when the lifts aren't running. I run a 22/32 crankset with a 52T rear cog. My bike is 18kg but with a nice 80º seat angle I manage to get up those climbs just fine. I don't like to compromise my bike on the DH so I just train harder and yeah I don't race up the climbs but I clean them nonetheless.
I am all about big cassette and dropper on dh bike for pedaling, been doing so for years.
The main problem with that is too short of seat post insertion to fit a post that’ll go high enough to pedal efficiently and low enough to decend with agility. Also almost all modern decent droppers are internally routed and almost no dh frames have intetnal routing. Orange and Nicolai are of few companies with a deep seat tube dh bike.
Most pro’s enduro bikes weigh 33-36 lbs. 2-5lbs more for this bike is 1-2% weight increase that you have to force uphill. Its the weight of 1 liter of water, really not a big deal. Rider strength endurance and weight and fat % bike suspension efficiency and aerodynamics all stand tobe much more a factor in getting to the top than bikes additional weight.
Availible Seatpost insertion and dropper routing is whats different from dhbike.
73mm cranks are better. Lighter, more options, narrower qfactor, more 175mm arms availible, better chainline for pedaling. 150mm rear spacing is nice for strong wheel with no downside but 83 rather than 73mm bb would be a poor choice.
Bet you wouldnt ride the shit some of us ride
As each year passes by and I'm getting older with falls hurting more all the time, who knows, I may have to change my PB name from "RowdyAirTime" to "No longer RowdyAirtime"...lol
My 2006 Norco VPS was well into the mid 40s and I rode it everywhere. Telescoping seat post, double chainring and 9 speed, yes sir. It was more like freeride light.
Here it was this past summer www.pinkbike.com/photo/17821991
After a few months riding it, I've put a few +31mile rides on it, and I'm pretty stocked. Still, I get the feeling that when the time comes to go to a lighter build, I'll be flying on the uphills!
Seriously, would love to see a One.2 with a Mezzer - why haven’t you posted pics of it on your pinkbike account?!?!?!
Seriously, great looking bike! Why the Mezzer? You fan of Manitou (like me)?
If I end up getting a shore, in the second model year, the Dorado will move across to that.
About your Shore/Dorado combo plan: a wicked idea!
Which is great, until you get tired of breaking their parts ALL THE TIME and you realize getting a free replacement and excellent customer service is no substitute for buying something once and having it work well.
I avoid e13 parts at all costs. Been bitten multiple times by multiple parts and it sure sounds like that's the norm.
full disclosure... I replaced the wheel set the day I got the bike, so they have been in my basement ever since
Damn thats some bs so sick of companies tryn to pass bs blame like that instead of taking responsibility
All wheels drop tension when inflated. Tensions i believe are given w/o tire.
Hard to believe uninflated wheel with cush core drops spoke tension
To be fair I've seen a bunch of DT1900, RF AR and Stans S1 rims (the lowest end rims for each manufacturer) dent and fail under heavier/more aggressive riders. All these rims are sleeved and made of softer 6061 aluminum so for some riders will never be awesome. All these companies make higher end rims made of stronger 6069/welded aluminum (including e13 with their Plus rims), but product managers simply don't spec these for cost reasons. I agree that FR and long travel enduro bikes should never really come with the lower end rims, but price points have to be hit I guess....
Happy Trails
But I don't trust them.....
Also have 2 sets of LG1 wheels that came on mine and my partner's commencal DH bikes and they're useless. 2 sets of wheels with front and rear cracked and buckled.
I don't want direct replacements for them just to do the same thing?
about the rims? OE rims are often always the lower end of what they make and might not work for everyone. They have stronger stuff (just like every rim brand) and might help you out. As for the cranks I have a set of their carbon cranks and my super heavy buddy is on TRS Plus Alu cranks with zero issues for well over a year and a half. I trust them way more than my last SRAM cranks that bent after a small crash. Stripped threads also happened to my brother’s XT cranks, but he rode his pedal a bit loose, and he didn’t install with the pedal washer so Shimnao didn’t warranty.
how comes i have a "old" LG1 EN rim in my 2021 norco? this exact rim looked like a herd of cows ran over it after two weeks. comparing to your comment, this means:
1. i have a previous years rim in a 2021 model year, which shouldn't happen, since you know how low-end this thing is
2. the rim is still somewhat low-end and there is no improvement since the previous years
is there a possible 3.?
in the meantime wheels got replaced by dt swiss wheelset. running straight and no dents in sight.
They did reply quickly and offer crash replacement, but the rims shouldn't dent and damage at the slightest knock - In response to the statement
"Most of the sentiment about the rims stems from our previous years entry level OEM only LG1 EN rims. This was a fairly light low-end rim which was spec'ed on quite a few bikes with single ply tires that ended up getting extensive bike park use"
Mine were on DH bikes with DH casing. If the LG1 have been spec'ed incorrectly, why are E13 allowing OEMs to do this? if it's having such an effect on their reputation.
Why isn't there some sort of recall or replacement going on?
I understand that wheels see wear and tea and you can't give warranty replacements on rims that have been abused, but if they know there is a problem why am I being stuck with the bill to replace them?
I certainly won't be paying to test a "higher end" rim from a company I have no confidence in.
I hope not.
still could be leverage ratio though.
Damn I didn't know carbon bikes were engineered to be not durable.
also specs e13 wheels
hmmm
www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5eMMf11uhM
Go toss a comparable carbon and aluminum bike through a rock garden, however, and see which one walks away ridable. Carbon is far more likely to have a structural failure due to an impact.
I have had a few nasty wrecks on a couple carbon bikes, nothing but paint damage so far.
Given the excitement for high pivot bikes I was expecting a lot more. The pricing to component mix is compelling, but there are a myriad other bikes with bigger wheels and just as much suspension that would seem to be better going up and down.
This gives me hope that we're approaching the end of the "lower, longer, slacker at all cost"-fad and are about to enter the era of sensible frame geometry.
I know, it's super nitpicky. But we exist within a hobby where there are 400 different colours for your chosen type of grips, so obviously these things matter
Second, you guys have plenty of NWD3 Wade Simmons hucking over a Marzocchi truck-esque gaps up there.
A real review for this would have been if it gave you the confidence to huck that gap you’ve never done before.
Ten years later and freeride bikes are ten pounds lighter, progress!
"There's also a park version that has 190mm of travel with a dual crown, 200mm fork for riders that don't have any plans of pedaling uphill."
Why would you opt for something such as this as opposed to a DH bike, if there's no intention to pedal?
Again, not criticising or making a complaint. I genuinely don't understand.
I get that enduro is big travel where you have to pedal, and DH is bigger travel where you don't have to pedal (so can be optimised purely for downhill without compromise or concessions to pedalling). Where does the park version come in if it's not meant for pedalling but the frame is not optimised for pure DH either?
My size Large Kona Process 153 AL 29'er (base model) weighs in at 37lbs. The stock wheelset is over 2400g alone, and then when you add things like tires that have casings not made of paper... it adds up.
And, thats not to say that I "like" it being heavy. But, its my only bike. So yeah, its heavy, but, it just feels like riding a bike to me. My body has adjusted, and it feels totally normal at this point.
But, if you're a bigger person (6'1", 200lbs in gear here), with a smaller budget that wants a longer travel bike... you're looking at 34-37lb weight range no matter what bike you're looking at in that category (Norco Sight, Kona Process 153, Commencal Meta AM, Privateer 161, etc, etc).
Are they really that much?? I thought my banshees was portly around 34... I couldn't make the call between the banshee and the kona so glad I went banshee now...
I bought mine from JensonUSA, and when I got it, it had some paperwork.
Jenson had weighed before shipping it at 36.4lbs, with 2.3in exo DHF’s front and rear. I’ve since added a 2.6in WTB Vigilante, and Michelin Wild enduro rear tire to the bike.
Those two tires alone weigh around 300-400g more than the stock tires (the wtb is the “light” casing, and IIRC it weighs over 1200g by itself). So admittedly I haven’t weighed it myself, but the math checks out.
And yeah, Kona’s not known for their lightweight alloy frames.
That said... haven’t had any problems with the build, other than the rear rim being made of something like cheese, or tin. I’ve dinged it to the point it needs replacement. So it seems durable.
Prime V3? Or V2?
I've been eyeing a Titan for a while now as a potential upgrade. They seem like great bikes. Just wish I could ride one before buying a frame.
And, its kind of nice coming from my current bike. Basically everything is lighter
I hear the Titan is a beast as well.
I get the mini DH aspect, but I wanted to know if the high pivot made some difference.
That's a silly statement. I thought the days of "plastic is fragile" were over with Santa Cruz, Guerilla Gravity, and others demonstrating that modern carbon is tough as f*ck. Not to mention that a composite frame can easily be built up extra thick and durable in common damage areas.
"Anyone that says weight doesn't matter should try grinding up a logging road for a couple thousand vertical feet on this thing, then talk to me at the top. No matter how you slice it, 37 pounds is on the heavy side of things."
I'm 6'2" and 210 lbs, on a 37 lb Canfield 1.2.
I want a high pivot Sight!
Yes you can pedal these things (I have) but I wouldn’t want to all day long. I have a trail/enduro bike for that. These type bikes are for smashing laps at the park and shuttlin’
The ride description is interesting- supportive, but with a rearward axle path. Seems like a great park bike for places that are rocky like Angel Fire or Bootleg.
suppose i‘m not, i look at a different one.
Now I know
Would still love to try it. Great that Norco has something like this in their portfolio !
Those (plushness and ride height) are not mutually exclusive, why are they being contrasted here? Especially on a coil shock: isn't the point of a bike designed for a coil, that it's always plush and super sensitive but still feels bottomless?
Bolts for a tube? What could go wrong?
Thx.
It's kinematics are tuned for pop instead of plush. Like a DH bike trying to be an Enduro race bike.
Sure man...
Not to mention the Doughnut and its sub 60 degree HTA
Once it starts to delaminate its over...
Carbon and aluminium have different properties. Simply saying carbon is stronger is VERY misleading."
I'd rather have an aluminum frame bend under me than my carbon frame snapping and splintering.
I understand the consistency goal, but that's a disservice to a bike like this. DoubleDown isn't just about puncture protection: the firmer casing changes the ride, lets you run lower pressures for max traction, and push harder when on the edge with less fear of rolling a bead.
My Nicolai G1 is 1kg/2.2lbs heavier and I regularly do over 1000-1500m of climbing and I weigh 60kg/132lb!
Pointing out it is heavier than the competition is fine but quite moaning about weight! The reason we have super light flexy single crown forks with no oil in them is because of people like Mike Kazimer!
As for the bike is too long BS give me a break, you just need to learn how to ride the bike off the center and it will turn just find.
Mike Levy has embraced longer bikes but I still missPaul Aston reviews...
I don't consider myself a weight weenie, and I have no problem pedaling bigger bikes uphill for hours at a time, but it's a point that's worth mentioning, especially since it does affect how enjoyable it is to take the bike on big rides.