So it turns out we like riding bikes more than talking about bikes, and we ran out of time to film the Editors' Choice discussion on the trail bikes during this year's Field Test. Flights needed catching, and filmers needed sleep, so the question of what we'd choose out of the Trance, Sensor, Habit, and SB130 had to wait.
But don't worry, we'll answer that question now, albeit without the witty(ish) video banter.
We had four different bikes in our trail bike category, ranging from 115mm to 130mm rear travel as well as 65.5° and 66.5° head-tube angles. While they're all similar in travel and purpose, they are still very different bikes on the trail. After riding each of them, it's apparent that categorizing bikes based on one number or another is increasingly difficult. But hey, this is where we drew our lines and we hope the comparisons are useful for you.
Testing in Whistler, BC, where there are just as many pedally trails in the valley as there are lift-access DH runs, we were able to understand each of these bikes in a way no geometry chart or product presentation could ever convey. We debated their strengths and weaknesses relative to their intended uses, and although they're all good bikes, we each chose one that, personally, we would most like to ride.
Sarah Moore: Yeti SB130
If I had to choose just one of these bikes to ride on my home trails in Squamish, it would be the Yeti SB130. I like a bike that caters to my current weakness, the climbs, and the SB130 was the bike I felt quickest and most efficient climbing on. I liked the super stable suspension platform that didn’t wallow under power, but also maintained traction on steeper, technical climbs.
I’ve been dabbling in racing Enduro since retiring from XC, so I appreciated the SB130's confidence at speed. Of all the bikes we tested in the category, it was the most capable all-rounder, and felt like it could take anything I threw at it. While it's not an enduro race bike, I wouldn’t hesitate to ride any of my favourite trails on it.
The Giant Trance 29 would be my second choice. It was so light it almost had me inspired to train for a marathon XC race and get back into peak climbing shape. The best part was that it could also rally on the descents thanks to its forward-thinking geometry. Maybe the perfect BC Bike Race bike?
I enjoyed riding the Cannondale Habit, and while it's seat-tube length makes it a non-starter for riders with shorter inseams (or riders looking to size up in reach), it's a good all-round bike. As for the GT Sensor, I definitely didn't get along with its harsh-feeling suspension on technical climbing and chundery descents. It's worth noting that the shock tune was revised by GT as a running change after our testing in Whistler. That could improve the suspension characteristics, so while I walked away nonplussed after the Field Test in Whistler, I am interested to try it with the updated tune. We're organizing a long-term review to follow up.
Daniel Sapp: Yeti SB130
While all of the bikes in this category are solid choices, for me, it was always between the Giant Trance 29 and the Yeti SB130. The prowess that the Yeti SB130 has while descending has impressed me time and time again and right now, it wins out... ask me next week though and I could easily say the Giant Trance 29. The Yeti SB130 is a 130mm travel bike that is over forked in a way that makes it a trail eating machine. Since initially testing it in BC during the Field Test, I took it home to the rock-and-root-infested East Coast; I have yet to get it out of its comfort zone in the several months I've been riding it.
The SB130's steep seat-tube helps it climb efficiently and precisely, while the long reach and added suspension up front helps it feel stable and secure while descending. The true test of any test bike for me comes down to which one I want to ride when I don't need to necessarily be "testing" and the Yeti SB130 is consistently the bike I choose. I feel that it's versatile as a bike should reasonably be and it feels at home everywhere I've ridden it so far.
Although I should only choose one bike and the Yeti SB130 is that bike, I would really like to choose two and have the Giant Trance 29 as well. It's lively and fun. It has a very capable spec and for someone who enjoys logging lots of miles in technical terrain without worrying about breaking themselves or a bike, like myself, it's an excellent choice. Where the Yeti SB130 is flat out fast and capable, the Trance will cover more ground and be an equally good (but different) time.
Richard Cunningham: Cannondale Habit
Cannondale's Habit Carbon was my favorite in the trail bike category. First off, I like its simplicity. Carbon where it makes the most sense, in the larger frame members of the main triangle, and aluminum for the rear stays where the smaller tubes must withstand more direct impacts.
Yes, the seat-tube could stand to be a little shorter to accommodate 170mm+ dropper posts, and yes the suspension requires your setup to be more than an afterthought. But it's worth it. The choice of a Horst-Link arrangement may not score vanity points like proprietary wonk-i-link bikes do, but there is no arguing that a consistent leverage curve contributed much to the Habit’s no-nonsense feel and its balance of efficient pedaling and small-bump compliance. This bike doesn’t shout about its technology, it lets its versatile performance do the talking.
Longer-travel enduro bikes have dulled the swords of trail riders with super-stable geometry and gravity-spec component selection that make riding all but the pointiest lines mistake-proof. The Habit pares off the excess from the enduro equation, without robbing the benefits of big wheels, up-to-the minute components, and trustworthy handling. In my opinion it offers up fast-paced trail riding as it should be: a blur of nature and technology, shared equally between rider and bicycle. The basic mountain bike, only better.
- Uncomfortable seat"
seriously? That is important to be mentioned in comparison??..
I find that seat pretty comfy, I thought it was a step up from normal giant seats. For reference, I normally run a fabric scoop radius or shallow on my other bikes.
Oh yeah-WTB bring back the Devo!!!!!!!
They're used interchangeably because it doesn't really matter. I guess for BMX you might call it a seat because you're always standing on a BMX, and the seat is more for sitting on when you're stopped, preventing nuttings, and a guide for your inner legs.
That depends on what terrain and how fast you're riding. Places that call for DH bikes are going to be very rough on enduro bikes.
You are getting into saddle height below that of DH race bikes for trail bike riding ans surely a saddle height too low to be useful if you do sit down to put a few pedals strokes in without the time to lift the saddle up again.
But when I ride anything distance (trail etc. ) I like the seat higher than probably average (otherwise my knee starts to complain). But when we session a trail with a bunch of jumps, I still find myself reaching for the tool and pushing my 150mm post down the 3 ish cm that it’s out of the frame when riding trails. But I may be the only one.
I suppose you guys are doing a completely different mix of riding on your trail bikes than I am.
@brianpark: I'm too much of a short arse to fit a 170mm dropper, maybe that's why I don't see the point ;-)
Different things work for different people & riding I suppose.
Fox needs to make a longer one. An interesting change I see on Ibis website is now they spec the Bike Yoke Revive Dropper, I wonder why they did this.
You don't have to sit down to put in a few pedal strokes, especially since if the seat is dropped you're probably descending - the worst time to take a seat.
After three months I gave up and dialed it back closer to 150mm. Luckily, the OneUp dropper has those shims so it was easy and awesome to do....
In these circumstances you wont want to mess about adjusting saddle height, by the time you have then next corner / section is there etc and you are back out of the saddle - My local trail is a good example of this, lots of tech and steep and then round a bermed corner to a flat section for 10 seconds which is pretty straight, I always take a seat and spin through there, I want to maintain speed, dont want to sprint (cant, im knackered and im not racing) and dont want to pop my saddle up as a few seconds later I know more tech is coming.
Hey, we dont have to all agree - thats why the clever post manufacturers are making adjustable posts to suit everybody - Just because almost every single DH racer at WC level doesnt need a saddle as low as modern trail riders doesnt make me any more right ;-)
What I'd like to see is the "This is what my top pick would be if I had to spend my own money" contest...
I always comp labor to swap components on frames or build a warranty replacement. If it’s a crash replacement, I might do half price install. Not all shops are out to get ya
Anyway this is a great looking bike, however I wish you could offer the alloy model in a Habit 3/Bad Habit 3 version with GX spec and other components more in line with the Habit Carbon 2. You know how to create good aluminium frames and there probably are more people around who would enjoy a full aluminium model with better components on.
And provide a 27,5” in size Medium as alternative wouldn’t hurt either...
m.pinkbike.com/photo/12345325
FYI, at the GX level most people are likely to buy the Yeti and the Trance are the same price.
I have a 160 enduro bike, but looking for something a bit quicker and more fun on tamer trails. Tried the SB100, but it was a little too XC for my tastes and seemed to get overwhelmed in tech sections. Trance hit the sweet spot for me.
Or are the reviewers trying to say that the Trance is in a different category than the other bikes in this comparison test?
It would be better compared to an evil following, santa cruz tallboy etc.
The Trance is progressive for a 115mm bike and also progressive for Giant as a brand. If you check out the first ride - www.pinkbike.com/news/first-ride-2019-giant-trance-29.html - I go a little more into detail about how it, as a 115mm bike, fits in with 130mm bikes. Hopefully that clarifies a bit.
We're not going to be critical unless it's warranted but if it is, we'll call it out.
The SB130 wheelbase is 30mm longer than the Trance in a size M. So is the Trance "progressive" or is the Yeti?
yeah mon
My only complaint would be that the best part, the direct comparisons, is much too small a sample size.
For instance.. the REAL hot-shit shootout for the SB130 should be: SB130 vs Ripmo vs Offering vs Sentinel... or maybe that would be the SB150, hell I don't know, I don't even like 29ers.
Thanks
Most companies are going to send their bikes out with a tune that works really well for the vast majority of people by simply setting the air pressure and adjusting the compression and rebound to the appropriate number of clicks, maybe adding/removing a volume reducer in the shock or fork at most.
For someone that rides at a "world-cup" level, is much heavier, or lighter than average, you may have to take other considerations but I say someone that's 6'2'' and 230lbs fits into the average category. Sure, you may be harder on parts and feel things move differently or need to run a slightly higher tire pressure, but overall, you should get a similar experience on the bike as I do, without diving too deep into the world of suspension tuning.
Chhers!
I thought most bikes were targeted at the average 150 lbs rider? Would 230 lbs not be way outside the optimal weight for most stock tuning ?
That might be true for air pressure, but no way that the damping shim stacks (assuming it is a proper shimmed damper) are optimised for the entire range. The air pressure chart for Fox Float forks ranges from 120 to 250 lbs. Rockshox charts usually go from 140 to 220 (making 230 already just outside the range).
No single shim stack is optimised for these 200% ranges.
Adjusting basic air pressure for these ranges might be possible, and with the limited adjustability (usually just low speed compression and rebound) of the average fork, you might get acceptable damping performance if you're not at the low- or high-end of the range. But to get good or optimal performance, simply adjusting the knobs and adjusting air pressure will not do for people at either end of the range.
Most of the bikes reviewed here are 29er. It’ll do that.
I liked all the reviews for curiosity. Great job crew!
Does it have a press fit bb? How difficult is the internal cable routing (although most brands have this mostly sorted)? How difficult/expensive is it to change linkage bearings? And special tools needed for anything? Proprietary stuff? Weird bars/grips (Pivot)? Water bottle location? Oh wait, that’s covered.
Maybe most people only keep a bike for a year or two, or don’t ride enough in the time they do have a bike to require addressing things like bearings. Or maybe they just pay a shop to do everything. But for the enthusiasts that do, more info about those things would be appreciated.
A couple years ago I was looking at an Evil Wreckoning and Nomad3. One of the big items was the frame warranty, the quality of customer service, and bearings. Evil used proprietary bearings (or maybe just much less common ones? I can't remember now), while SC did free bearings for life.
I also definitely prefer threaded BBs. It isn't a deal breaker to have pressfit, but I had such a terrible experience with pressfit and just zero issues with the threaded ones since.
Say what you want about Specialized (I’m not really a fan, never had one and not sure if I ever would) but the fact that the Stumpjumper now has a threaded bb and non-proprietary shock says something. They obviously thought those things were important enough to influence their design.
High end brands especially should be called out more for this. If you spend almost $4000 on a frame, you shouldn’t have to then spend more on aftermarket products to address the issues you might have with the bb.
I will say bikes above 3k should already be specced with thread together pf bb's