First Look: 2021 Yeti SB115
The SB100 was released two years ago, a short travel rig that was aimed at XC riders looking for something a little different than a pure-bred race machine. It wouldn't be a stretch to call it a downcountry bike, and Mike Levy did just that in his review, inadvertently putting a name on a category that seems to have stuck.
The new SB115 is cut from the same cloth as the SB100 (literally – the two models share the same front triangle and swingarm). It's closer to one of Yeti's Lunch Ride creations, where they take an existing model, eke a little more travel out of it and adjust the build kit accordingly, as opposed to being something that was developed entirely from scratch. That extra travel comes via a new shock link as well as a longer stroke shock that measures 190 x 45mm.
The new SB115 is cut from the same cloth as the SB100 (literally – the two models share the same front triangle and swingarm). It's closer to one of Yeti's Lunch Ride creations, where they take an existing model, eke a little more travel out of it and adjust the build kit accordingly, as opposed to being something that was developed entirely from scratch. That extra travel comes via a new shock link as well as a longer stroke shock that measures 190 x 45mm.
Yeti SB115
• Intended use: cross-country / trail
• Wheel size: 29''
• Rear wheel travel: 115mm
• Fork travel: 130mm
• 67.6-degree head angle
• Switch Infinity suspension
• Carbon front and rear triangles
• Weight: 27.17 lb / 12.3 kg (T2 model, size L)
• MSRP: $4,700 - $8,000
• Frame MSRP: $3,400 USD
• www.yeticycles.com
• Intended use: cross-country / trail
• Wheel size: 29''
• Rear wheel travel: 115mm
• Fork travel: 130mm
• 67.6-degree head angle
• Switch Infinity suspension
• Carbon front and rear triangles
• Weight: 27.17 lb / 12.3 kg (T2 model, size L)
• MSRP: $4,700 - $8,000
• Frame MSRP: $3,400 USD
• www.yeticycles.com
That 115mm of rear travel is paired with a 130mm fork. According to Yeti's press materials, that's because their “115mm of rear suspension outperforms similar travel forks.” Sure, the Switch Infinity suspension design works really well, but that sentence made me roll my eyes. The Switch Infinity suspension layout uses two Kashima-coated rails to control the bike's axle path - Pinkbike's Dan Roberts recently wrote an in-depth article that provides more insight into how the system works. On the SB115 (and the SB100) the rails are positioned next to each other, a 90-degree difference from the orientation used on Yeti's longer travel bikes.
This is the SB100, but the orientation of the SB115's Switch Infinity system is the same. A bolt-on cover usually shields this part from the elements.
A 130mm Fox 34 puts the head angle at 67.6-degrees, a smidge slacker than the SB100's 67.8-degree head tube angle. The reach on a size large measure 450mm, and the seat angle is 74-degrees.
Those number are a touch conservative compared to bikes like the recently launched Transition Spur and the Revel Ranger; they're more in line with the numbers found on the Cannondale Scalpel SE. What's that translate to out on the trail? Well, all of those bikes, along with the new Specialized Epic Evo were put to the test during our recent XC Field Test – you'll be able to watch and read our findings in the near future.
The SB115 build kits reflect its more all-around intentions. All models come with a 50mm stem and 780mm handlebar, along with four piston brakes and a 2.5” Maxxis Minion DHF / 2.3” Maxxis Aggressor tire combo.
The frame alone is priced at $3,400, with complete bikes starting at $4,700 USD for the C1 model, which uses a slightly heavier frame than the Turq series models. The C1 has Shimano SLX 12-speed drivetrain, Fox Performance 34 fork, and DT Swiss M1900 wheelset.
At the other end of the price scale is the T3 version, which has a SRAM XX1 drivetrain, Fox Factory suspension, and DT Swiss XM1700 wheels. Want to get even fancier? There's also the option to upgrade to SRAM's AXS wireless drivetrain or DT Swiss' carbon wheels.
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What you really need is to be dissatisfied with whatever bike you currently have. It’s junk. Buy this one.
Not alone the reach and SA but also the HA should’ve gone to 66 or 66.5... Transition Bike Co. did it better.-
Either develop a new replacement for the SB100 or save the R&D, give us something like this and price it accordingly.
Look at every bike in this category being released today, they are all longer, slacker, and with steeper STAs than this Yeti (including Yeti's other models like the SB130 designed from the ground up). Obviously some of it is preference, and if you think 74 deg is the number for you have it, but you're missing out on the benefits of new age bike geo.
I haven't ridden the sb100 but hasn't there been alot of feedback on how flexy the rear end is? And now it's updated to be ridden harder? No claims of xx% increased stiffness?
I have ridden the sb130 and thought is was awesome, so not a hater, just outside my range for now so I went with the ripmo heavy metal edtion.
My point is, this just a lazy refresh. If this is the type of geo/XC bike you want, have at it. For me, for an all-around or downcountry focused XC bike, more updated (aka longer/slacker) geo is a clear winner.
fo shizzle. Tranny Spur FTW over this bike. I'm liking that Izzo too. Alas I'm on a one bike quiver for now so 150ish is the sweet spot.
Yo clink. 2 things: 1. It's personal preference, 2. I think you're right though bc shorter travel bikes don't 'need' as steep a sta due to less sag anyways. These slacked out all-mountain bikes with lotsa squish benefit from a steep sta much more than an xc whip.
No way in hell I'd buy a trail/AM bike with a sta that's shy of 75 and change, and that's after demoing alot of bikes in the last couple years. Sure it's a sum of all parts to some extent but after tasting the sweet sweet steepness it's hard to go back.
www.pinkbike.com/news/pinkbike-poll-how-much-time-do-you-spend-riding-in-a-given-week.html
1) The average pinkbike barely rides for one thing. They don't have the power output to know what a "good climbing bike" is.
2) it's a matter of physiology, the human body makes peak power in only a narrow body position, arbitrarily putting you forward of the bottom bracket decreases glutes activation.
The geometry that is good for winning enduro and XC are not the same, you're kidding yourself if you think they cross over at all.
XC bikes can use slacker seat tubes because their wheelbase is so short and you're more balanced between the wheels. When you increase your reach numbers to ohhh IDK 480mm on a size L like the Transition Spur, you get a bike that is vastly improved on the downhill.
Keep riding your old bike and have fun, you're buddies will drop you on the downs.
I agree with you on road bikes, but also some newer enduro and trail bikes with STA ~78 degrees pedal really well, so it's not like we're way past the limit of body kinematics. IMO steep STA allowed manufacturers to design in much longer reaches which result in a more balanced and stable bike. Also, I bet you'll see 66 deg HTA in World Cup XC races real soon. The new Epic has a 67.5 deg HTA and I bet someone will race the Evo at 66.5.
I wouldn't trade any of those for my Asrc from 2016
"Being a massive Yeti fan makes this tough to say, but I think this is a mistake."
From the perspective of the consumer, it's a just a new fork and shock on an existing frame. Underwhelming, but nothing wrong with having an additional choice.
From the perspective of the manufacturer, they got some press exposure and created a "new model" for the cost of a new SKU in the database and a new page on the website. That's a win for them.
Well played, Yeti, now get to work on a proper chassis update!
Brahahahaha! But we're not 'average', we're all roughAF here didn't you know?!
Physiology?! No sh*t. If you go too slack or steep it's gonna suck. But what is too slack or steep? That's going to depend on the amount of travel the bike has as well as rider preference and how their body is built.
I think we're almost saying the same thing. Geo will be different on a shorter travel rig. Should that 'short' 120 rig have a 77 deg sta? Don't know. Probably not. But IMO it sure as sh*t shouldn't have a 73 deg sta. I hopped on a friend's Scott Spark one morn and pedaled it up for a few minutes and the slack sta felt horrible to me. It works for him though. I also demoed a La Sal Peak and had to slam the saddle all the way back for it to even approach a comfortable position for me with that 78 deg sta. 77 feels about perfect for me as I'm on 76 (albeit an all-mountain bike) with the saddle slammed forward. And bro you should see my glutes! You don't get a can like this by riding a fkn road bike!
Generally i think 120 bikes need to move toward the geo of all-mountain bikes, but not all the way. At least that's my preference. There will always be companies lagging behind in geo and that's where you are free to shop. Or get an offset dropper post.... i think a couple companies still make those.
I've said it before and I'll say it again. Drink the cool-aid! I said DRINK, damnit!!!!
Ride on.
67 is probably the limit for now. I just don’t want some brand bringing out a 64 degree HTA “XC bike” next year.
The sb115 is a XC race bike, its not designed to win enduro races. Cool Flex though.
Who is standsrdizing what?, the new scalpel race bike is barely ar 68. The new Epic race bike is below. The new spark will be the same, if not around 67 sta, as Scott have been at the forefront of xc geometry in the last few years(1. they have launched a 68.5 sta race bike when everyone else were doing 70 and 1. Nino is using a bike with 110mm fork and 120mm travel for the frame, thus statically, making it a 68 sta bike while dynamically being slacker due to the longer travel).
Ffs, orbea will launch soon the new alma(HT), with a 68 sta. For sure, the next Oiz race will be, at least, with 0.5 degrees slacker(current numbers are 69.5 for the Alma and 69 for Oiz); not to mention about the Oiz tr, which will be arouns epic evo geo numbers.
What I want to say is, every manufacturer is updating their xc geo numbers, mostly accordingly to their production and development plans. It is bar impossible and take considerably financial efforts to launch a bike 1 year earlier m, in order to stay relevant to the market. For xc bikes, they are in luck as xc riders are pretty conservative and don't care that much about 74 sta vs a 76 sta, although I can argue that my 75 sta from my nukeproof reactor and my former custom 2019 Oiz do not feel as good on the climbs as the 77 on the occam. It is very simple really, when the climb/abrup comes, the steep seat angle feels like you have more power than you actually have; or like some degree of tail wind. It is better.
I do not think (100mm)race bikes could really use 77+ stas as the effective sag is less than on a real mountain bike but, something along the lines of 75.5-76 would be great.
As for slacker HAs, that should be mandatory on all bikes. The so called agility loss is bogus and can easily be compensate with very little rider skill and/or some adapting; it is, really, a win-win.
1) This Yeti SB115 is not a race bike. It's not designed for that and it's not marketed as that. Therefore we want geo that reflects this, like every other current bike in this category.
2) Everyone here wanting more modern geo wants a "downcountry" or light trail bike, whatever you want to call/classify it. These prioritize the downhill over uphill and pure XC racing. No one disagrees with you that your old XC bike will climb faster/better.
3) AGAIN, ride what you like, no one is forcing you to buy this bike. The point we are making is if you took your old bike and raced it against a new-er geo bike like the Tran Spur I guarantee you you'll be significantly faster on the downhill.
Actually, the difference between my 2018 Oiz and 2019 Oiz was about 23 minutes on a 77 kms with 1800 m of ascending. If anything, I was less fit in 2019 than I was in 2018.
Same parts, as both bikes were build from frame and I've had the parts from the 2018 model year transfered to the 2019 frame.
Allllll that being said, I do wish Yeti had done a full redesign instead of simply updating the linkage to create a bike that is between the SB100 and SB130 in Geo as well as travel. I also recognize the SB100 is only 2 years old and Yeti is going above and beyond to update it after just 2 years. I will also wager that when the SB100/SB115 is updated it will be longer and slacker.
Do you want to continue on on your expertise about XC bikes? lol.
"1) This Yeti SB115 is not a race bike. It's not designed for that and it's not marketed as that. Therefore we want geo that reflects this, like every other current bike in this category."
" Just wanted to mention 1 thing, the 115 is 100% built as a race bike, not so much for world cup XC more burly multi day XC stage racing, like the BC bike race, which was meant to be a big part of this bikes release."
My "old bike" is a 2018 Pivot mach 429sl. It's not old, and the stans pivot team did quite well on it on the stages races and epic ride series that Geoff Kabush also races his SB100 on, and developed the sb115 for. The newest version of the Pivot race bike has the same STA and HTA as the SB115 with a 120mm fork, and has won multiple domestic races and world cups.
The real problem is you just dont know much about XC bikes, or what works. If you watched the videos of Claudo struggling to keep up with Nino on his race bike you wouldn't be repeating the "XC bikes cant descend" trope. That wold championship winning bike has a 73.8 STA too.
Are you serious?, it is laughable
Pivot..a wc winning bike?, hahahah
sb115.."not so much wc bike but one for multi-stage race racing"?, sb100 was no so much a race bike but one multi stage racing.
Get your grips and facts, you know absolutely nothing about bikes.
Ffs, ppl are running cape epic on HT and most of them are on 100mm fullys; fyi, those are race bikes, not 115mm bikes with 130mm forks and assegais.
I can bet you anything you want that a 76-77 sta will make you climb faster than a 73-74 one. Also longer reach, also longer wb, also slacker ha.
The difference btw us is the fact that I have raced(amateur local xc and xcm events) the same bike(spec) with 2 different frame iterations and, surprise-surprise, the longer(wb, reach), slacker(ha) and steeper(sta) was faster.
But even the modern one, light years away from the previous one(437 reach vs 414, etc-etc) had a feeling of a too small of a bike; and it was/is, because it has been launched 2 years ago and, in the meantime, things evolved rapidly. I have sold it this spring, as there were no races anyway, and now I am considering my options.
What I do know and I can tell you for sure is the fact my next "race bike", will have a reach of minimum 450 in size M(my size, that is), minimum 1150 for wb, 75-76 sta and below 68 for ha.
These are xco-xcm bikes or, racing mountain-bikes. They are not sprint bikes for the road. The elements I have mention before really di make a difference, not only in feel but, most importantly, on the clock. So, try to be less ignorant next time and open your mind, give up on your conservatorism and start to understand mtb-ing design.
Consider: the front and rear triangles are the same as the SB100. They already had a known issue with the smaller switch infinity link on the SB100s and had to implement a fix. So, new shock w/longer stroke, new link, revised switch infinity which doesn't loosen, no new molds, and let's call it a new bike: SB115.
You know that Yeti is hard at work on a 115 V2 with modern geometry somewhere in CAD land right now. And next year they'll release that bike with two shock tunes, just like they did with the SB4.5. This will allow them to sell the same bike to the XC and DC fan bases respectively. The V2 will be available in an XC spec with 115/120, and a LR/DC spec with 115/130. Yeti used this strategy and it worked incredibly well for them with the sb4.5. This will give them their XC bike with a dps shock and more xc geo, and they'll use a 190x45 dpx2 on the LR/DC version.
But again, what you're looking at is a patched together, lowest cost place holder for the 2021 XCish bike.
Yeti will redesign this bike with modern geo and offer it in two shock tunes next year, don't waste your money. They've done this before and will do it again ( because it makes sense.)
*shows picture of part covered in the elements*
if you come out with a XC bike with more travel, why not have longer reach and steeper STA?
but I do think, that you can ride a bike for 3+ years and still be happy
very happy indeed - with the right mindset
Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but a lot of these comments scream out that many of you have missed the point of what this bike is about. I also feel like some key points were missed in this article.
First off, This bike is intended as a race bike primarily. and more specifically , for burly XC stage racing like the BC bike race, which both Geoff Kabush and myself were both meant to be competing in right now (before Covid changed that) which was going to be a big part of this bikes release originally.
As far as XC race bikes go, this thing undoubtedly on the modern/aggressive end of the spectrum. And if you think it isn't then check the Geo of Nino Schurters bike. I dare you to tell him his bikes outdated
I think what is confusing some people comes down to the spec of the bike. It's spec does shine it in a light more in the direction of a do it all everyday trail bike, which it is, but it can be built for pure XC race needs or general trail riding purely by changing some key parts. No parts spec is ever going to be to everbodys liking. Thats why frame only options exist, so you can buy the frame and build it up to suit you.
We are doing a feature next week, with Kabush and myself based around the versatility of this frame and how it can be built to suit different wants and needs. So some of you might be very interested to check that out when it hits. TO not give away too much, its fairly straight forward to turn it into a super fun capable descent shredder, or an xc all around weapon. It might not be the lightest frame, because it built burly and strong. I can also say, that on my personal XC build I have it at 10.9 kg complete with 34 Step cast fork, XTR trail 4 pot brakes, and no silly crazy light parts, you could definitely get it down to 10.5kg or under if you went all out with the build.
To the people who mentioned that every bike shouldn't have to be longer/slacker HA and more aggressive than previous models - THANK YOU! You guys get it. Were at a point now where we've reached the sweet spot, from ths point what we are going to see more of is refinement. minor tweaks here and therewith geo, optimizing kinematics, strength to weight ratios improving. Poeple need to get past the mindset of different always equals better, it simply doesnt.
The guys at Yeti are all extremely passionate abut what they do, a lot of trial and error/testing and thought goes into every new model. their fingers are on the pulse so to speak. The big mistake would be to keep going with longer slacker constantly, and going too far, which as some others here mentioned, brings the bike to the point where it goes past its intended purpose and into a different category.
If this bikes geo isnt aggressive enough for you, then it's not the bike for you anyway, you'll be far happier with the SB130, once again, its main intended purpose is an aggressive XC type race bike.
to answer a few questions to some comments here.
- someone mentioned why you wouldnt spec it with a 140 fork, there is absolutely nothing stopping you from putting a 140mm fork on this bike if thats what you want to do.
- Yes Yeti recognized the SB 100 had some stifness issue in the back end which was a big reason for the redesign and chnages to this frame, with a lsight tweak and travel and kinematic update to go with it, it pedals just as well as the 100 but now has a bit more out the back to help on the descents.
- the dirt under the cover, c'mon seriously, dust gets into everything! do a summer full of riding in dust then take your cranks out and see the dust thats somehow found its way into your BB shell. The cover is only there to keep mud from accumulating, and even then it isnt really necessary, part of the reason is because people asked for it, if it makes you feel better that a 27g (yes ive weighed it) piece of plastic is there to put your mind at ease that theres some protection there for the switch, then its worth it, its there because people wanted it and Yeti listen!
I Could go on with more but I'll leave it at that for now, but I'll check back in to give more answers if you have any questions, or ask one of the engineers if I don't know the answer.
Nobody is forcing you to buy this, if you want to then that's awesome, you'll love it! If another bike tickles your fancy more then go for that. Just go easy on the strong opinions if you haven't ridden one.
I'm Simply making an effort to clear up some points that people might like to get a better understanding about. Since there's a lot of people throwing out opinions based on what they see on paper and no real world knowledge of how the bike actually rides.
Good to see your reply here and interesting to read also. Bummer about the BC Bike Race. That would’ve been good to watch.
The only thing I was actually surprised about is the HA. I’ve been riding a bunch of different bikes lately and personally I found the sweet spot at 66-66.5 degrees. So, okay, that’s personal.. But I have a feeling that a lot of people share this with me when looking at these new, so called down country bikes.
But then, your explanation about the aggressive XC riding and what this bike is actually intended for really clears things up about the HA, but I’m looking also from the marketing side of things. I might be too “trailbike” minded and I can’t look inside Yeti’s marketing department etc, but what if they had slackened it a bit to go with the current marketing / down country trend..?
On the other hand, Revel did the same thing with their Ranger so there must be a market for it... It’s interesting to see.
Mounting a 140mm fork could be an option too. I ride a Santa Cruz Chameleon which, in the charts on their website, should be run with a 120mm fork with 29 inch wheels. I mounted a 140mm and have to say that it’s pretty much perfect. And that’s also a 67+ degree HA bike.....
Hard to take your opinion objectively when you are paid by the brand to ride their bike.
I love that you broke it down into so many great points but at the same time I feel bad. I feel bad you spent all that time only for some lip skidder to focus on the wrong thing.
Im not here to try and tell anyone they are wrong, or convince anyone to buy it, everyone can have their opinion. Just some friendly first hand accurate information that some people will appreciate.
Transition: hey...look...Cascade will sell you a link for, say...$300.
Yeti: how about, say, $9800...but you get the frame and components with it!
Which by the way always leads to bike models leaving the initial targeted usage finally ending up creating new bike categories (for marketing purposes).
Not to mention that the majority of customers does not care about numbers nor do they buy a new bike every 1-2 years. Also not every bike needs to get longer and slacker. I suppose the Stumpjumper, for example, was that successful because many people immediately liked how it felt. It was never really progressive nor was it the most efficient bike - its just a nice ride.
But that's just my personal opinion. Marketing guys will probably have a very different point of view.
I guess we'll have to wait for the field test.
I'm in the category that buys new bike/bikes every year.
I could also tell you how supportive a 77 sta feels vs a 74 one. Tried and tested, not read it from a geo chart. The same goes for reach.
The only reason I buy new bike/bikes every year is becsuse, if you take/wait more than 2-3 years to buy a new one, the old one would value little to nothing, as the geo would be obsolete, especially these days.
No offence but I would't give to much about those figures.
First there is no industry norm on how to measure the (effective) STA for a defined rider (e.g. seat height depends on the inside leg which influences the effective STA, rider weight / Sag as well).
Second the STA needs to be seen in relation to reach. To still feel "centered" on a bike with long reach requires steeper STA. Visa versa if you don't have as much reach you can go with slacker STA.
Now how much reach someone wants is pretty much personal preference these days - there are hardly any bikes where you can argue that the reach is way to short (in its category).
But again I doubt that the majority of customers will rule out a bike just because of geometry figures.
We aren't talking about a clunker from the 90's. The human body hasn't changed and geo's have been pretty been in the same ballpark for the last few years. It's not like I try to throw my leg over a Stumpy from 2015 and my body says "sorry we aren't compatible with this model"
Maybe, maybe not. But either way, geometry figures on paper can and do influence the perception of a bike. Pinkbike will say its geo is "out-dated", "conservative", "not progressive", when it was perfect two years ago, because it doesn't match the steepest seat tube and longest reach that they most recently tested. Doesn't seem to matter that crazy long reach isn't how everyone wants to ride, and seat tube is just all over the place with actual angles and adjustment of the seat rails. Then that model/design gets an online reputation as being behing the times, and although yes most of the loud people online aren't the only ones buying bikes, the perception of a bike/frame they create can be real. Just look at how many brand hashtags are in many Instagram posts.
Don't get me wrong, yes I do find reviews helpful (to get a first impression). No I won't buy any bike without testing it.
But I also think that most people go to one or two shops next to them (if they don't have a favorite shop anyway), ask for advice and finally buy what ever has been recommended by the shop and felt ok for them.
Sure, many people do go to the local shops and see what they have, but they also not even consider a shop if they don't see "Well-reviewed Brand A" on the sign, or they might avoid it because it has "Internet-says-its-shitty-and-out-of-date Brand B" on the sign. And you can't ignore direct sales, where online reviews _are_ "the shop"...
"If they would there would be some really well selling bikes and quite some that hardly anyone would buy." Umm, that's how it is... some bikes _do_ sell really well, and others don't...
I have an Sb100 and like it the way it is but just for kicks I was considering changing out the shock, updated switch infinity link and upper swing link which is possible.
Info I got directly from Yeti:
"...At this time we aren't selling all of the parts to make the swap, though they will eventually all be available separately in a few months. It will require a new upper link, 30mm bearing hardware, new shock, as well as a new switch infinity; cost for this can start to reach well over $1000, and that's not including a new 130mm fork that would be needed to preserve the balance in geometry with 115mm travel in the rear..."
Nice Post Mr. Jared Graves - very well said.
Would be even nicer if, given the seat tube is pretty straight, there would be an option to use 8pins dropper posts.
@Yeti: please produce some prototypes and sell them
"The new SB115 is cut from the same cloth as the SB100 (literally – the two models share the same front triangle and swingarm)."
Kudos to Yeti for keeping the great frame and (hopefully) allowing SB100 owners to buy the long link in the not too distant future.
Ah I see. The new linkage probably prevents the tire from contacting the frame.
But as far as the shock is concerned, the eye to eye length in both shocks are still 190mm. I figured that shocks with the same eye to eye length were the same shock, with the lesser stroke having more spacers inserted. I suppose getting official word from Yeti would be best instead of speculating.
Nevertheless, LR-ing the SB100 with a few parts that would probably cost $1500 or so is still much cheaper than buying a new frame.
But that’s coming from me — a business-oriented materials / structures engineer who also helps executive management with general marketing and technical marketing (including brands like McLaren...helping with their Monocell branding after developing the chassis and carbon fiber engineering / production for 5 years, and chastising them for the MP4-12C name, which they fortunately got rid of). I work with Bugatti and Bentley too. Love Veyron, Chiron, Mulsanne, and Continental names — much classier than McLaren’s original performance-derived “MP4-12C” model name (MP4 for McLaren Projects 4; 12 for Vehicle Performance Index 12; C for Carbon). Dry and boring. Obviously named by an engineer.
Although I would like to see whether it's really that much better than say an Anthem 29.
geometrygeeks.bike/compare/yeti-sb115-2021-lg,yeti-sb100-2019-lg,yeti-sb130-2019-lg
…so SB115 is VERY similar to the SB100, really not any more "progressive". I still want one!
I'll hold out for the release of a proper new SB115. Something along the lines of 66°, 76°, 470mm reach in large. And a heavier duty frame.
But I just sold off a 65° HA long fork bike and am currently on a 66° HA shorter fork bike, the inherent difference in mid-range support and a pumping speed is vast. Jibby bikes are addicting.
And name, apparently.
So which is it? Are the cable/hose in no danger of ever being hit and the armor is excessive? Or is the armor needed and the cable/hose is just left to fend for itself?
Is that carbon more fragile than a brake hose? That's not an insignificant piece of rubber protecting the carbon... implying that carbon is weak AF compared to a hose.
I've had both (150/125, 160/140,160/160, 150/150, 150/145), and I think I like equal or almost equal slightly better (though this may be due to a more off-the-back riding style that tends to use lots/most of the rear travel but rarely bottoms out the fork). On the unequal bikes I almost always get the o-ring to the bottom of the shock even if the fork still has 10% left, where on equal travel both front and rear usually had the same travel used (whether 10% or 0% left)
I’ve taken it thru a ton of gnarly terrain and it works fine. I’ve bottomed it out but it still works. And it sub 24lbs. I’ll stick with the 100.
simpler
cheaper
less maintenance
Giving you ultimate pleasure while we steal your moonie.....your fooken moonie ..... ha ha ha ha haaaaa
It is an XC bike.
xc sucks man we all know that by now.... Altho those bikes look nice, would probably rip in half on the first day.